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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. Rainier: June 13th - Update

Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams Led by RMI Guides Tyler Reid and Pete Van Deventer were turned at 12,600’ due to weather. The team climbed into a cap and reported low visibility, cold temperatures, snow showers a couple of inches of accumulation and light to moderate winds. The teams are en route Back to Camp Muir and will be back at Rainier Basecamp early this afternoon. Congratulations to Today's Teams.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Will and Tim it was an honor to have attempted the summit of Rainier with you. Pete, I would follow your lead up any mountain my friend. You kept it cool and calm under all conditions, including me tugging at your rope at 12,000ft.

Posted by: charles on 6/18/2014 at 7:57 am

Good try Ted and friends.  Weather can be the decider up on Rainier.  The Top of the Cleaver is still high, and it is the crux of the route you were on.  The mountain will always be there and I know you will go back.  Hopefully, I can go with you again!  Still a great adventure and a big accomplishment.
Dad

Posted by: Jim Daverman on 6/13/2014 at 4:28 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Locked and Loaded, Luggaged Lugged

June 12, 2014 - 9:47 pm PT Climbing in Alaska, so close to the Arctic circle is never an easy task. Formidable and imposing features surround the landscape we travel through. Climbing, especially on "The High One" presents the added challenge of high winds, low temperatures, and high altitude. Today, we awoke to one of these elements; low temperatures. It makes for a unique challenge when faced with the need to begin the days work. Forcing ones self to leave the warm cocoon you have been comfortably nestled in all night. We began our day with a warm dose of oatmeal and hot drinks, and soon took off towards the fixed lines that lay above our current camp at 14,000 feet, in Genet Basin. As an expedition this was our first time above our current camp. As we struck out from camp we welcomed the warmth of the sun on our backs. After climbing to the base of the fixed lines, we began our steepest climbing of the day. Travel was smooth and the reality of the climbing set in. From the top of the fixed lines we ran the ridge of the West Buttress and made efficient work to the base of "The Thumb," at 16,700'. We created a cache of food and some personal items needed for high camp and our summit attempt. From our cache we retraced our steps back to camp. The team made quick work of dinner and now are fast asleep. For now we wait and rest, ready to launch. All we need is a window and bang! We're off. Keep it locked in... RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jen - Way to go! Fixed lines - it’s getting real. I know you’re doing awesome. Can’t wait to hear all about it when you get back.

Posted by: Nicole on 6/13/2014 at 8:17 pm

Hi Will! I got your postcard of Denali yesterday! Such a sweet surprise - I’m praying for you and missing you! The a/c at the office is nothing compared to your frigid temps but know that I’m shivering with u and dreaming of the day I can go to Alaska w u! Remember the anchorage guy in the RV we met in the parking lot of lake Louise? Good mems! Luv u big time - da wife.

Posted by: Christine on 6/13/2014 at 9:26 am


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team on Mountain Time

June 12, 2014 - 9:02 pm PT RMI Team Haugen is at Kahiltna Basecamp. We departed just before 9:00 am from Talkeetna as the weather was clearing and Denali was looming in the distance. We have taken the day to organize our gear and get a plan together to tackle the lower glacier. Basecamp is in good shape with all of the new snowfall and we are excited to head out towards Camp 1 at 7,800' on the Kahiltna Glacier. We plan on leaving basecamp very early since it did get pretty warm during midday today. The adventure begins! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Bruce & Michael - You’re living the life you love & loving the life you live. GOOD LUCK to your entire team!  xo Jen

Posted by: Jen Bush on 6/13/2014 at 6:17 pm

Dear Bruce and Michael,
It is great to see you “climbing” your dream.  Sending you well wishes,
Kathy

Posted by: Kathy Damico on 6/13/2014 at 2:59 pm


Mt.McKinley: Haugen & Team Fly onto the Glacier!

June 12, 2014 9:20am PT It looks like we got lucky with the weather and found ourselves a day to fly! The mountain is visible from Talkeetna which seems like it is a rarity this season. All systems go! RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Onward & Upward Bruce!

Posted by: Cheryl & Ken on 6/26/2014 at 12:19 am

Wow Bruce! You are there. Wait a minute. The tail of the plane behind you says “K2”. Are you in Pakistan? :)

Posted by: Kris McCann on 6/13/2014 at 3:35 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 11,200’

June 12, 2014 10:22am PT Yesterday was a great day. After a few storm days at the base of ski hill, the weather let us leave camp. Waking early we set off in good walking temps but no visibility for higher on glacier. The snow was deep and as the first team to make the move, we enjoyed breaking trail for a few hours before the skies cleared and a descending team provided a nicely broken trail. The views were spectacular and honestly the clearest of the whole trip. The team put in a big day yesterday and are enjoying a leisurely morning here at 11,200 before back carrying later today to pick up our cache at 9700. RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck to the guides and team!
So glad to hear you could move up.
love you Dawn and all the others!

Mom.

Posted by: Hye Kim on 6/13/2014 at 10:28 am

Good luck to the guides and all their charges! I hope everyone is well and the views continue to be awe inspiring and frequent.          i
IL Padrino

Posted by: padrino on 6/13/2014 at 9:29 am


Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team takes Weather Day at 14,000’

June 11, 2014 10:53pm PT We awoke this morning to clear skies and the sound of howling wind thrashing the mountain above us. It was a cold day at 14 camp despite the winds easing a bit in the afternoon. We finished building our snow walls and made some snow statues- a mailbox and planter among them. At 3:00 pm the winds had let up enough that we took a walk to the Edge of the World, a vista point on the 14k bench. The forecast is looking better and we are hopeful that we can get a cache up on the Rib tomorrow. Thanks for following along with us. RMI Guides Eric, Geoff and The UWR Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Dr. Bruce Freedman, Love the beard. You guys look great. What a view you have. Stay warm and post some more pics… David

Posted by: David Hart on 6/13/2014 at 2:48 am

Good work gentlemen!

John, your fantasy baseball team is doing phenominal, the first goal of the world cup was an own-goal, and I left a basball game in the middle of the 14th inning only to hear the fireworks of a walk-off homer in the parking lot. Stay safe-ish, take lots of photos, and enjoy your time on the mountian.

Cash

Posted by: Clay Rogers on 6/12/2014 at 9:40 pm


Mt. Rainier: RMI Climbers on the Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Lindsay Fixmer reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7:25 am PT. Casey reported winds ranging from 15-20 mph and clear skies. From the summit he could see clouds throughout the Ashford valley but reported clear skies above 6,000'. The team was able to enjoy an hour on top due to the nice weather. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later today. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb Teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go Ken and Jessie! Congrats on reaching the summit. We are proud of you two and can’t wait to hear about your climb.
Love, Jeff, Lee & Lauren

Posted by: Lee and Jeff on 6/15/2014 at 4:19 pm

Way to go Ronnie!  So glad you made it to the top!  We are proud of you!  Love, Mommy & Logan

Posted by: Lindsey & Logan on 6/12/2014 at 5:25 pm


McKinley: Jones & Team Cold Temps & Wind = Another Rest Day

June 11, 2014 3:14pm PT Greetings from Team No Troubles, Sitting here for another rest day at 14,200'. Cold temperatures and steady wind have been the story of the day, and we made the right decision to stand by for the time being. Last night saw the mercury plummet to an ambient temp of -17F, which is much more common up here in April than it is in June. Combine that temp with winds in camp of about 15mph and you have a recipe for immediate freezing of any exposed skin, as the wind chill hovers somewhere between -45 and -50F. Brrrrr shiver! So instead of our planned carry to the top of the fixed lines, we'll stay in camp today, on a steady orbit around our posh and sleeping tents. The team is on guard against any uninvited trespassing into our bathroom, too, as we've had more than one inquiry from other folks about using our lovely on-mountain comfort station. Keep sending warm thoughts, and hopefully warmer weather, our way! Keep the comments coming too, we love to hear from y'all. From a frosty 14K camp. RMI Guides Bryan, Tyler, Garrett and the No Troubles Crew
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hope you get to see “Edge of the World” !!!

Posted by: Matt on 6/12/2014 at 8:09 pm

Hey Jake love the pictures. It’s only 60 degrees today here back in Minneapolis. Have fun and keep warm.  Auntie Joan

Posted by: joan Hansen on 6/12/2014 at 3:40 pm


Mt. Rainier: Two RMI Teams on the Summit June 11th!

RMI's Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by Elias de Andres Martos and Mark Falender reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 7:25 am today. Elias reported really good conditions and no wind. The sky is clear and it's a beautiful day. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing to Paradise. We look forward to seeing the teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great job Glenn.  The Wenatchee Valley Chamber of Commerce is proud of your accomplishment!

Posted by: Jerrilea Crawford on 6/12/2014 at 5:08 pm

Way to go CWH Team!!! CONGRATULATIONS!! I want to see some pics!

Posted by: Jenny Sass on 6/12/2014 at 9:48 am


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Continue to Wait For Better Weather

June 10, 2014 - 10:33 pm PT Can you guess where we are? Yes, 7,800' camp on Mt. McKinley. The snows continue to blow up glacier and keep us from advancing higher on the mountain. The team is doing a fantastic job staying dug out and keeping spirits high. We have plenty of food and fuel, we just need to the weather to allow us to go a little higher. It will and all we need is a little patience. Wish us luck. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Scott Thinking about you and wish you the best.  Ben

Posted by: Ben on 6/15/2014 at 12:12 am

Hey J-Rod are you going to summit that?  Whin misses you…well at least I think thats what her hissing at me means, haha. I’m eating all of Rice Crispies at your house FYI. They are delicious. Catch you on the flip side brother.

Posted by: Gunter on 6/12/2014 at 6:30 am

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