Entries from Locations

For the past two winters I’ve traveled to the south side of the globe to join RMI’s teams on Cerro Aconcagua (Argentina). Despite being a skier and winter-lover through and through, each fall I find myself eagerly anticipating my trip to Argentina. Thanks to the Andes, the cuisine, and the new friends I make there each year, I’ve fallen in love with Aconcagua. Here are the top five reasons I look forward to making the long voyage south each winter: Mules: Aconcagua is a unique mountain in that it is exceptionally dry. Its base camp at 13,800’ is reached by hiking twenty-seven hot, dusty miles along the Vacas river which sits deep in a rocky and sparsely vegetated valley. We rely on mules to carry our heavy expedition equipment to Base Camp over the course of our trek. The mules, loaded with two or three 30 kilogram duffels a piece, run along the river kicking up dust with the southern flanks of Aconcagua as a backdrop. Unlike horses, which expire quickly without water, the mules can run the 27 miles to basecamp fully loaded in a single morning and make the return trip to the trailhead that same afternoon. The mules are cared for and driven by Herrieros, the predecessors of the iconic South American Gauchos. The Herrieros ride the largest and sleekest mules and wear a traditional red cap that looks like a wool beret. They tie large patterned sashes around their waists and tuck a large, leather-sheathed blade in the back. At night the sashes are used to cover the eyes of the younger or more rambunctious mules in camp while the riders sit around a fire and grill in the Argentinian style. Which leads me to another part I love about an Aconcagua expedition… Asado: A traditional grill that sits just off the ground. Slow burned hardwood provides the coals to cook large slabs of heavily salted steak. There is simply nothing better than coming down from climbing to a camp dinner of fresh steak and wine. Over our Asado dinner the last night on trail, the team has a chance to reflect and enjoy each other’s company, knowing they’re reaching the end of a successful expedition. Mendoza: This small city nestled in Argentinian wine country is our jumping off point for all Aconcagua expeditions. Mendoza draws tourists of all sorts: wine connoisseurs, climbers, fly fishers, horseback riders, and a host of others. But all of them find in Mendoza some of the best cuisine and wine South America has to offer. The rise in popularity of Argentinian wines complements a rich food culture that descends from a mélange of European and native cultures. Whatever you crave after three weeks in a tent, whether steak, authentic Italian pasta, empanadas, fusion, or just pizza, you’ll find it in Mendoza. I promise, it will be delicious. The View from Chopper Camp: So far everything I’ve mentioned about climbing Aconcagua has been about food and culture (forgive me, I love a good meal!). And while the cultural experience in Argentina is undoubtedly one of my favorite parts of the Aconcagua expedition, the view at Camp Two on Aconcagua takes my breath away every time. Sitting below the Polish Glacier on a small ridge at 18,600ft, Camp Two (or Chopper Camp) offers up the first views of the greater Andean range. From Base Camp on up, climbers see Aconcagua towering above them day and night, until suddenly we come around the final traverse into camp and the Andes stretch out as far as you can see: to the north and east toward Mendoza and west all the way into Chile. It is here, at Chopper Camp, that the expedition picks up energy: the summit is close, the final push on the horizon! The Team: As the old adage goes, it takes a village to climb a mountain, or something along those lines. Aconcagua requires a tremendous amount of teamwork every step of the way. Our broader team includes the mule drivers who make sure our equipment arrives, the porters who help a climber with an especially heavy load, the Base Camp staff who cook us our first dinners, the drivers, expedition providers, hotel staff and numerous others who work with RMI year after year to make sure climbers and guides are cared for along the way. These people become part of our team. They have become friends and mentors and I look forward to seeing them each year. And then, there is our expedition team: the three guides and ten climbers who live together, work hard building camp together each night, eat every meal together for almost three weeks, and learn more about each other in that time than most people learn in a year. This network and the chance to be part of a new climbing team, more than anything else, calls me back to Aconcagua year after year. _____
Katrina Bloemsma hails from the mountains of Colorado, but now calls the Pacific Northwest home. She guides in Washington on Mt. Rainier and the North Cascades, and further south, on Aconcagua. An avid skier and climber, Katrina can be found chasing deep snow and warm rocks when she isn't guiding.

Today's Four Day Summit Climb team lead by RMI Guide Mike Haugen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier shortly after 7 am. Mike reported calm winds and great climbing. They will spent a bit of time on top before beginning their descent. Once they return to Camp Muir, they will take a quick break, repack their gear and continue their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing the team at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb team!

Hello from Moscow - Our second RMI Team has gathered in Moscow to begin our trip to Mt. Elbrus. New beginnings for me and a new adventure for all. Today we had a beautiful sunny day here in Moscow and spent the morning exploring the beautiful sites on a great city tour. Check out the video to see what we saw!! RMI Guide JJ Justman

Today we awoke to blue sky's and light wind, coffee in bed followed by a fantastic breakfast. After breaking camp we helped load the donkeys and continued hiking up the beautiful Santa Cruze valley. With every step more sunning mountain seemed to reveal themselves, truly an awe inspiring place. After a couple hours of hiking we turned north and climbed some switchbacks before sauntering into our Base Camp at 14,200'. We all got our first look at Alpamayo, one of the most beautiful peaks I have ever seen. Shortly after arriving to our Base Camp lunch was served, soup and pasta, quite tasty. The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing and bathing in the river. The team is doing very well and we are all excited to be here. Thanks for following along with us RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team

Greetings from Huaraz! The team finished the expedition yesterday, arriving safe and sound to the capital of the Ancash district of Peru, but also the capital of Andean climbing. Our descent to the trail head at Cashapampa, with the help of horses, was an extraordinary experience. We took our time to enjoyed for the last time the views of the massively snow fluted peaks and turquoise lakes down valley. Right on time for a shower and a celebratory dinner, the arrival at the hotel marked the end of our climbing adventure. We'll spend the day today relaxing in Huaraz and enjoying a Pachamanca, typical Peruvian meal cooked underground, with our local guide and outfitter's family, before packing for tomorrow's departure to Lima and flights back home. Thanks to all for following and cheering for this team during our climb! We just say bye now until next year's expedition, wishing best of luck to Geoff's Schellens' team, who's currently starting the 2nd RMI Alpamayo climb this season. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

The Four Day Summit Climb led by Brent Okita and Peter Van Deventer did not reach the summit this morning. The teams left Camp Muir at about 1:00 am in full hard shell layers, but it was not match for the weather. The team made the decision to turn at Ingraham Flats. They will be departing Camp Muir at around 8:30 this morning and be back in Ashford in the early afternoon. Congratulations to today's teams!

Today we made our first steps towards Alpamayo. After an early start from Huaraz we drove north for about three hours with the entire Cordillera Blanca Range glistening in the morning light. Truly spectacular. After reaching Cashapampa, we disembarked from our van, met our cook and helped load the donkey with our gear for the trip. Finally the whole expedition starts. Excitement was high as we began our approach to base camp. The first hour and a half of the hike was up steep switchbacked terrain after which it mellowed and became a gradual meandering trail up the Santa Cruse Valley. Our camp tonight is called Llama Corral, 12,300 feet, and about halfway up the valley. Tomorrow we should reach base camp by early afternoon. The team is doing very well, everyone is climbing strong, staying healthy, and excited for what's to come. Thanks for following along with us! RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team

Jambo from Africa everyone! We have had an exciting last two days as we made our way to Tarangire National Park, known for their abundance of elephants, and we weren't disappointed. Yesterday we spent about four hours driving through the park which is mostly a savannah with a river running through it. We saw hundreds of elephants and more giraffes than I've ever seen, and plenty of other wildlife too. We spent the night out in the African bush in a remote tented camp called Kakoti that overlooks Tarangire Park. We arrived to watch the beautiful sunset one last time and then enjoyed yet another wonderful meal. Today we finished our safari with a drive back through Tarangire where some of the team caught a glimpse of a leopard as it crossed the road before it disappeared again. There were plenty of elephants again and everyone enjoyed our last day as we made our way back to the Dik Dik Lodge before quick showers and then it was off to the airport. Thanks for following! RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

Summit! The Mount Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Dave Hahn and Tyler Reid, were leaving the crater rim at 7:30 this morning. Dave reported great conditions: clear and sunny, with light winds. Mike King and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons are returning to Base Camp today after a successful summit via the Emmons Glacier.

We are back at the comfort of lower elevations, the meals of our cook Emilio, and the safety of the Andean meadow in which it sits. Our summit climb yesterday was incredible; mainly because of the climbing ability of our climbers, (providing the fastest and most efficient one this guide has had) but also because the weather, conditions and surroundings. We had the mountain to ourselves, which contributed too. This morning, we had to drag our feet out of Camp 2, since a whiteout engulfed us upon waking up. The weather gave us a break and without hesitation, we started our descent to BC. We know we're not done till we dismount our horses tomorrow at the trailhead, but our sense of accomplishment makes us believe so; we have climbed, arguably and according to many, the most beautiful mountain in the world. We're going now to rest that thought in the warmth of the first night not on the glacier in a few days, and let you know all about it tomorrow from our hotel. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos