Entries from Locations
Today the seminar team had a fine time learning and drilling crevasse rescue techniques. Colder today than the previous few, we bundled up and traveled a few minutes from camp to a nice staging area above a deep blue hole. The team first drilled pulling a snow-filled duffel out before practicing with a live load. Everyone got the opportunity to experience the inside of a crevasse as well as pulling a teammate out of one. Clouds are starting to build over Foraker as a southwest flow moves it's way into our area and by late morning, silence filled the arena that hummed with the activity of planes flying into Basecamp. Before dinner we rigged our sleds and packed some gear for our anticipated move from BC and up the Kahiltna glacier tomorrow. An early and quiet goodnight from the expedition skills seminar.
RMI Guide Leon Davis
On The Map
Posted by: Mike Walter, Billy Haas, Blake Votilla
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Thursday, May 5, 2016 - 10:17 a.m. PDT
The RMI Office received word that RMI Guide Mike Walter and the May 3rd Denali Expedition has departed Talkeetna enroute to base camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. The team boarded K2 Aviation's Otter planes round 9 a.m. local time for their 45 minute flight into the Alaska Range.
The RMI Denali climbing season is officially underway!
On The Map
Wednesday, May 4, 2016 - 10:29 p.m PDT
Today the team went out to stretch their legs and explore the various corners of the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. We left camp early in the cold, biting air of morning and made our way up to a basin on the north side of the Radio Tower. Recent snow made for a lot of trail breaking to gain the north ridge. After crossing the bergschrund, we found the ridge to be very steep, firm underfoot, and very exposed. Our options were limited with the gear we had and the nature of the potential consequences. So we made the summit ridge our high point and descended to set up some fixed line work and anchor building. The team is in good spirits, eager to learn, and attentive to their well being. Tomorrow we explore the inside of a crevasse to see how deep the rabbit hole really goes.
RMI Guides Leon Davis and Mike King
On The Map
Posted by: Mike Walter, Billy Haas, Blake Votilla
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Wednesday, May 4, 2016 - 9:01 p.m.
Here we go! Everyone's travel arrangements worked out brilliantly the past couple of days and we all met in Anchorage yesterday afternoon and drove north to Talkeetna, a quaint little climbing village and the gateway to the Alaska Range.
This morning we had an early orientation meeting with the National Park Service in Talkeetna where we discussed the route, leave no trace practices, and some of the history of Denali climbing.
Then, after brunch at the historic Talkeetna Roadhouse, we spent the rest of the day at K2 Aviation's hangar checking our equipment and packing for our expedition. After a long day of sorting gear and weighing packs, we are confident that we are ready for out expedition on the West Buttress of Denali.
The plan is to fly in to Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier tomorrow morning, weather permitting. From there, we'll be busy climbing for the next few weeks towards the apex of North America. We will be sending dispatches via satellite interface, and will try to make that technological magic work on a daily basis. Thanks for following along!
RMI Guides Mike Walter, Billy Haas, Blake Votilla and the Team
It was so wonderful to hear from you this morning, Tuesday 10th. You sound good and in high spirits. We are all so very proud of you and we are thinking of you everyday. Dont give up. Remeber - “Go Large”
chat again soon, lots of love, hugs and kisses from all of us xxx
Posted by: melanie on 5/9/2016 at 9:55 pm
To Dave:
Go Guy !!!! Be Safe!!!!!
Love Jon and Grammy.
Posted by: jon hines and grammy hines on 5/7/2016 at 9:46 am
 copy.jpg)
Tuesday, May 3, 2016 - 9:31 p.m.
This morning we woke up to a few inches of light snow and little visibility. Our goal today was to fortify camp with walls cut from snow and our team worked fast together. By early afternoon the sun cast a blue light down glacier and the north buttress of Hunter made itself present with its steep rock and ice. The team finished by 1300 and relaxed for a short while under a warm sun. Before dinner we sat together to review some knots and hitches and prepare for a climb up Radio Tower tomorrow morning. Every once in a while I catch the team standing quietly, shovels in hand, pausing to take in the surrounding splendor before returning to their work. All is very well here in our snowy castle.
RMI Guide Leon Davis
.jpg)
Monday, May 2, 2016 - 10:03 p.m.
Greetings Blog Followers!
Our first Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition is doing fine at Kahiltna Base Camp! Our morning in Talkeetna, AK was anything but slow and leisurely as we performed many logistic moves in order to get ahead of the changing weather forecast. We made it onto K2 Aviation's Otters by noon and made camp quickly in great weather. Despite being thrust into action on a compressed time schedule, the team worked very well together displaying great work ethic and sense if humor. It's 9:00 p.m and we are all warm and happy in tents looking forward to fortifying camp tomorrow.
Good night friends and family from the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier; we'll check in again tomorrow.
RMI Guides Leon Davis and Mike King
On The Map
Posted by: Brent Okita, Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 13,000'
The Winter Seminar aborted their summit attempt this morning. At 13,000' the team came upon a crevasse making that elevation their high point. RMI Guide Brent Okita reported that winds were about 30-35 mph and some blue skies were peeking through cloud layers above and below them on the mountain.
The guides said everyone on the team did an amazing job and all are safely back at Camp Muir enjoying some hot drinks. Once the team refuels, they are going to do some more training before calling it a day.
RMI Guides Brent Okita and Elias de Andres Martos
Way to go Jason!
Posted by: Brian on 4/15/2016 at 8:22 am
I’m so proud of you JoshuaBlu! I can’t wait to hear all about this trip!
Posted by: Melinda on 4/15/2016 at 7:54 am
Posted by: Brent Okita, Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,000'
The April 10th Winter Seminar had a beautiful day on the Muir Snowfield. The strong crew made their way up to Camp Muir taking in the Cascades and surrounding views. The team, being led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Elias de Andres Martos, checked in this morning. The winds during the night at Camp Muir had some strong gusts but are currently tapering off. The team checked in via radio while having breakfast and getting ready for a day of training.
WoW !!!! What an amazing landscape !!!! Hope you’ll be able to climb up to the summit :)
Posted by: Marika, Philipe, Rémy & Mayla on 4/13/2016 at 3:23 pm
Posted by: JJ Justman, Billy Nugent
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,000'
The first Expedition Skill Seminar - Winter gathered in Ashford on Sunday for a day of technical training and gear checks. With large packs and a daunting weather forecast the team headed for Paradise as soon as the park gate opened. The team camped above Paradise for their first night out with better than expected weather. After breakfast the following morning the team broke camp and made the ascent to Camp Muir. They have spent the remaining days training at 10,000'. Unfortunately the weather forecast did become accurate and the team experienced a full winter storm on Mt. Rainier which prevented them from climbing higher than Camp Muir.
The seminar wraps up tomorrow. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp tomorrow afternoon.
I’m sure the storm was pretty wild because the wind was whipping in Royal City and the pass was getting pretty heavy snow! So the other day I went flying around the mountain to see how much snow she got. She was getting getting wind whipped pretty had and has a pretty good pack. Let me know if you want to see pictures!
Posted by: Paul Davies on 3/18/2016 at 7:33 am
It's been a mixed day of weather here on the flanks of Ixta. The group awoke to clear skies and pleasant temps this morning, but an ominous forecast threatened that the good weather would probably not last.
We loaded our packs after breakfast and began climbing toward our high camp at 15,000ft. Slowly the wind began to pick up as we gained altitude until it was blowing 25-30mph when we arrived at camp. It was an easy decision to leave our tents packed and we opted instead to move into the nearby Refugio De Los Cien.
We are currently spread inside the Refugio listening to the wind blow in strong gusts. Every so often someone builds up the courage to venture outside to go to the bathroom but is quickly forced back inside.
We have our fingers crossed for improving weather, but the conditions right now don't give us much hope for a summit bid tomorrow.
RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Eric Frank
Previous Page
Next Page
So proud of you Justin Nezda. Sounds like you’re getting the complete cold Alaska experience. Sending you good thoughts and wish you luck on the upcoming challenges. Can’t wait to hear all about when you come home. Love you, Erin
Posted by: Erin on 5/6/2016 at 8:56 am
View All Comments