RMI Expeditions Blog
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 16,400'
After spending four nights at Plaza Argentina the routine began to feel a bit like the movie, Groundhog Day, same people in the same clothing, tasty but similar meals, etc. We packed up our remaining gear and clothing and headed uphill around 9 am. The most advantageous aspect of our time at PA was the acclimatization. It showed today, with lighter packs the Team was in camp in under four hours and they felt good enough to descend to 15,500’ and back carry our heavy cache from two days ago.
We are currently snacking and relaxing in our tents, organizing gear and getting ready for a well earned meal at 16,400’. The wind is light and should remain until the 26th. Camp 1 is located on a large flat ‘bench’ with Ameghino flanking the northern slope. On most days you can lie in your tent and listen to the wind above as it builds up and then comes crashing down like a wave. Our agenda for tomorrow is a bit in the air due to the extra work of the back carry. I think we will have a casual morning and see how people are doing then ideally carry some food, fuel, and equipment to Camp 2.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
When you’re already in twenty four hours of sunlight, it can be a little slippery declaring that this day is longer than the others. But of course the summer solstice means something more to us at 80 degrees south latitude. For my gang of climbers, the day would have had far greater significance if it had been the start of our travel homeward. Not so much, as it turned out. There was a chance though. It started out snowy and grey and windy and progressed to partly sunny and windy by afternoon. The Ilyushin Captain was giving the day a thorough revue, but in the end he decided that the amount of blowing snow he’d have to find his way through to reach the runway threshold was unworkable. The call was made as we sat down to dinner. By that time we’d done our usual day-long routine of napping, reading, going to lectures and watching the sky. Of course the announcement was a disappointment, but we are glad the logistics folks are trying so hard to find a hole in this storm.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
After watching the 80 mph winds whip the dry snow off the summit ridge of Aconcagua last night the Team got a casual start to this last rest day. This Team has really bonded with breakfast conversations lasting well into the early afternoon. Lots of reading, organizing last minutes items and a few showers filled the day. We have had a beautiful clear and calm day with only a few gusts of wind. Tomorrow we pack up camp and start moving up the tallest mountain outside the Himalaya. Everyone is acclimating well and feels rested. Not much else to report.
RMI Guide Mike King
Go Patty Go! You’re doing GREAT…just ignore the wind
Posted by: Sue Mamer on 12/22/2018 at 9:03 am
Praying for all of your safety and lots of good time. What a great adventure!
Posted by: Kay Robinson on 12/22/2018 at 7:07 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
On the good side, it wasn’t windy last night. The tents were quiet and we got good rest. On the bad side -from a flying perspective- nothing else changed. It was still snowing and the clouds were still sitting right down on top of us this morning... and throughout the day. Nobody went flying. So the folks in Punta Arenas who were hoping to get in stayed put. The people at the South Pole wanting to get back to Union didn’t. The gang out at Vinson ready to go home sat at Base Camp. The peeps at Union wanting to head to Vinson had to wait. Those that wanted to go to the Pole did not. And the five of us intent on escaping Antarctica never had a chance today. So we took it easy, went for walks and lectures and books. Ate meals and took naps and read forecasts of more poor weather.
Basically, we hung in there.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
Today we carried ten days of food and fuel along with some personal gear to 15,500’. Our intended goal was Camp 1 but strong winds forced us to cache lower on the mountain. The route out of base camp follows a narrow choke with the Relinchos Glacier on the right and a large rock buttress on the left. Once through the choke, we rambled on through the scree covered glacier with great views of the surrounding peaks. From here we have one more large scree slope to switch back up and Camp 1 sits on a flat bench.
The mountain is holding more winter snow then I have seen in the 13 years I’ve been coming down here. Unfortunately the wind was too strong to allow us out on the snow. The entrance to Camp 1 is through a steep and narrow drainage that funnels wind on the best of days let alone when we are having trouble standing on flat ground. We compiled our gear and food, covered it with large talus and headed back to base camp. The Team preformed well on their first heavy carry and their downhill walking was excellent, even with the high winds. We will rest tomorrow and hope for the wind to ease off.
RMI Guide Mike King
This sounds like an amazing adventure! We are so proud of you and we know you can do it!
-Tom and Maggie
Writing from a Waffle House in East Kentucky
Posted by: Tom and Maggie on 12/23/2018 at 9:49 am
You guys are all amazing! This is a challenge for me to even think about your climb. Please be safe and enjoy every minute of this incredible experience.
Momma Kay
Posted by: Kay Robinson on 12/22/2018 at 8:04 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
The winds went all night but didn’t cause much damage. Morning was a familiar mix of grey and greyer with light snow falling. Nothing was going flying today... too much of a mid-storm feeling to the world. We ate breakfast and attended lectures for the morning. After lunch, my gang eagerly showed up for a field trip in the Tucker snow bus. There were about 18 of us rambling along a flagged and gps-ed ice road in the big tracked vehicle. The snow storm continued, but we went on instruments to find the “wind scoop” by Mount Charles. We got out and donned stretchy traction aids to help our boots on the hard blue ice. We then walked toward an enormous snow and ice formation, the wind scoop carved out by patient and endless winds around the base of an Antarctic mountain. Simple... except it was also beautiful and primal. It snowed on us as we walked, and the winds kept up, but every now and then, we could see enough to be impressed and awed by the scale and the relentlessness of ice, snow, wind, sun and rock.
When we got back to the comfortable dining tent at Union Glacier, it shocked us for a moment that the staff had put up all of the Christmas decorations. We haven’t given up on getting home for the big event, but dinner with friends in this wild setting was still pretty fun.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
I can’t believe you’re still there!!!
Posted by: Kim k on 12/20/2018 at 7:08 pm
Get home already. Miss your voice. Stay safe and have fun!
Posted by: Beth on 12/20/2018 at 2:38 pm
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
The Team had a restful night and woke feeling good after a delicious dinner of tacos and calm weather. The morning consisted of sorting and packing gear for our carry to Camp 1 tomorrow. With winds picking up the Team went for a short hike to stretch their lungs and legs. Plaza Argentina Base Camp is located on an undulating glacial moraine that is covered in scree. The camp is comprised of four large outfitters that provide logistics and meals. There are 10 large geodesic dome tents per outfitter and a few buildings for the Park Rangers. Hot showers, internet, pizza and cold drinks make the living up here pretty rough. While everyone is enjoying the amenities, after a few more nights here they will be itching to get going on the upper mountain.
We are currently resting and watching the clouds pass. Plaza Argentina is starting to get busy as 3-4 groups have walked in.
Casual day and there is some nervous energy about the first heavy carry day tomorrow. The guides are all pleased with how everyone is acclimating and getting along. With clouds covering the upper slopes we are anticipating some snow and cooler temperatures for the remainder of the day. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Looks like fun city up there. Thanks so much for the daily feedback!
Mom
Posted by: Michelle on 12/20/2018 at 4:16 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
There was a chance today... had things gone a little differently, we might have left the continent. The Ilyushin crew were hot to get back in tonight to pull us out before the big storm, but the “window” turned out to not be enough of a window.
It was a little surreal walking into the dining tent this morning (under cloudy skies and in wind) to find all new people in camp... the marathoners were gone and bunch of South Pole enthusiasts were in. The immediate effect was that breakfast was easier to come by... those runners were serious at feeding time. The weather today was mostly in-between. There were some tranquil moments, but there was also ample sign that it was all going to get worse. The big question (for us) was whether the relative calm before the fireworks would be calm enough for long enough to get a big plane in and out. The final call didn’t come until we were finished with dinner... not tonight. My gang still kept their spirits up... we attended several lectures on Antarctica and the mountains of the world. We read in the library and mingled in the dining tent. We smiled at everybody. As it got a little later, we went out to hold the sleeping tents down in the gathering storm. We’ve got a big darn snow wall for protection and our tents are perfectly oriented to the prevailing winds. Still, it will be a long night of frayed nerves as the tent fabric snaps like machine gun fire and the wind howls down off Mount Rossman. Union Glacier Camp doesn’t normally get such turbulence and truculence at this time of year. A rare treat for a select audience.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Praying for each of you on your safe return, and what sounds like some much needed sleep at night. Hurry home Matt B and the rest of the team!!
Posted by: Holly Mitchell on 12/19/2018 at 3:23 am
Hey Dave , Ive been following along everyday. You are all Awesome! Just wondering what is the temp at base camp?
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 12/19/2018 at 3:09 am
We got an early start today so the group could catch a mule ride across the Vacas River. We started our hike up the narrow mouth of the Relinchos valley and eventually made our way onto another high rolling plateau. The winds were calm and the view of Aconcagua just kept getting better.
The mountain is holding a lot of winter snow and a descent amount of new snow. This should make climbing to Camp 1 easier on the Team as we hopefully won’t have as much loose scree to navigate. We are all settled in at Base Camp with darkening skies above. The first night at almost 14,000’ is always an adjustment so we will take a day off tomorrow to rest and pack for our carry to Camp 1.
Everyone is excited to be here and actually start the climb. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Hello to Glo. I love that you are all so adventurous and brave.
Mom
Posted by: Michelle on 12/19/2018 at 5:40 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
It was tough to tell the difference this morning... another cloudy, snowy start without the benefit of sun. But things began to clear by mid morning. There was that same transformation when people could again see horizons and mountains and when they could walk from tent to tent without pulling on hoods and big gloves. Union Glacier weather was coming around, but apparently it was coming around more slowly in Punta Arenas because the Ilyushin decision was being looked at on an hour to hour basis. In camp we carried on -attending a lecture on Antarctic Ice, snow and glaciers. By late afternoon, winds in Union Camp had come up, but they must have dropped in Patagonia because the flight took off at 5:30 PM. It should be here at 10 PM -in about 20 min. We spent a pleasant evening with the marathon folks, remembering and commemorating the big race. They are all packed and ready to be moving again and we are hanging tough and set to be on the following flight.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Previous Page
Next Page
sounds like an incredible experience. glad everyone is doing well. Hope u r sharing some of your funny stories during rest time , Neil. Merry christmas. Love u Mom
Posted by: Lois Yoder on 12/23/2018 at 8:46 pm
Glo, I am living vicariously through you. Love you Aunt Char
Posted by: Charlene Lindsey on 12/23/2018 at 5:48 pm
View All Comments