RMI Expeditions Blog
We flew out of
Union Glacier at 3:30 AM the day after Christmas, arriving in Punta Arenas at 8 in the morning. Under ordinary circumstances, we’d have slept the day away and celebrated in the evening with a big dinner. But we’d enjoyed a fair number of big dinners at Union and my gang had families and lives to get back to. We showered in town and repacked, had a nice lunch and then headed for the airport again. Sure enough, we started saying goodbye to each other in airplane aisles and security lines and before long, the five of us were flying in different directions. We shared plenty on this expedition, and although we were ultimately in different places, I’m positive that we were still sharing exhaustion at the end of 36 hours of constant travel.
There was plenty of relief at being done, but there were also a thousand new memories of challenges met, storms and delays endured and of five steady companions who got through it all while still laughing and smiling and loving Antarctica.
Thanks for following our adventure.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
It’s one of the toughest decisions a guide team makes, when to call it quits below the summit of a big peak. We had great weather until we didn’t. The Team acclimated well and above 18,000’ life gets harder. With winds increasing and our number of days dwindling, we decided to get out of the wind and start the descent to Base Camp. While our climbers are disappointed, they all got two spectacular weeks in the Andes at high altitude, made some new friends and climbing partners. The Team will spend tomorrow at
Plaza Argentina and begin the two day walk to the road on the 29th. A huge thanks to a wonderful group of climbers and those that supported them along the way.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
After a calm Christmas rest day we woke early to go for a walk towards
High Camp and potentially beyond. The morning was cold with a light breeze out of the West stinging our faces. This was going to be the last calm day for a while. We didn’t make it to far before deciding that we need more acclimatization and the additional terrain would be to big of an undertaking. We returned to Camp 2 at 18,000’ and hung out while the winds rattled the tents and the dry snow shot off the upper ridge lines. The Team is anxious for a summit bid and the winds have arrived but not quite as forecast. Our plan is to move up to High Camp at 19,600’ tomorrow and see what we get. The next window of calm weather isn’t until the 31st and there is plenty that could change by then.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
As it turns out, it WAS a white Christmas. Still some clouds and a few flakes in the air this morning, but it was calm and quiet and obviously improving.
We greeted one another with Merry Christmases and smiles and suggestions that “today could be the day.” As the sky began to go blue and the sun came out, everybody took to walking around outside... then skiing and biking and simply hanging out and conversing. It was such a pleasure to see the surrounding mountains again that folks were reluctant to go inside. The decision was still to be made concerning the Ilyushin, but there was plenty to do as we waited. There were outings in the camp vehicles to surrounding hillsides, there was exercise to be had on the snow roads within camp and as the afternoon went on, there were skydivers to watch. A group revved up one of the Twin Otters, climbed 10,000 feet overhead, and jumped out. Twice, with each skydiver landing perfectly in control and on target.
At our excellent Christmas Dinner, the word came that the flight was on. The Ilyushin left Punta Arenas at 8 PM and is expected in at half past midnight. We’ll be in South America by morning. My team is excited, naturally. And relieved. And ready to get back to see loved ones and friends. But there is also a little sadness at leaving our
Antarctic home and friends. Not exactly what we’d have chosen, but this will definitely be a Christmas to remember.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
A few years ago I had the pleasure to work with
Caleb Ladue, RMI guide on his first trip here on
Aconcagua. We spent Christmas with our group at base camp. Caleb had bought a bunch of treats and little bottles of champagne for our team to enjoy, one of which was TANG mimosas. He had somehow grabbed a sock from each climber without them knowing and when the team walked into our dining tent there hung a stocking for each of them. Caleb passed away in a skiing accident not far from where we are now in the Andes last fall. In his memory, we started our holiday morning off with stockings and hot drinks delivered to the Team’s tents. The champagne would have been to heavy to get up this high and not benefited our acclimatization so we opted for coffee.
The Team is doing well and excited for a rest day. The weather is supposed to get windy for the next 3-5 days. Advancing our schedule isn’t in the cards so we will wait to see what the weather gives us and hopefully have a summit bid Sunday-Monday. This will get us back to Mendoza for flights home. Until then we are going to reinforce camp and enjoy the calm air and warm tents.
The office sent in your blog comments, we will read them during breakfast, thanks for supporting the Team from a far, it means a lot to them. Merry Christmas from 18,000’.
RMI Guide Mike King
Same weather. Snow and low cloud. Nobody went anywhere. But there is hope that the weather will improve tomorrow and that we’ll fly to South America.
We had a big brunch at 11 AM and a Christmas procession involving vehicles, costumes, dancing and hot wine. Then it was lectures and reading and napping as usual. Dinner was special. None of us expected to be in
Antarctica for Christmas... all of us are, as it turns out. So we made the most of it. A great dinner with friends. And then a suspense filled game of trivia in which our sturdy Vinson team took second place out of six teams.
By night time, it was still snowing, but ever so lightly and the clouds were lifting. Things may indeed start happening tomorrow.
Merry Christmas to all at home and we’ll see you soon.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
After returning from our carry yesterday the snowfield above our camp had soaked up more UV radiation than the Tropicana sun tan lotion team. This created a flooding event that required earthwork and various channels to divert the water away from our tents. We worked faster than FEMA during Hurricane Katrina because we not only had skin in the game but nice fluffy down sleeping bags to keep dry. By the time our Team completed a micro Suez Canal, the snow started falling and would blanket the mountain by midnight, go figure. Led Zeppelin said that when the levy breaks, you have no place to go, we decided to challenge that statement and move to
Camp 2 this morning.
While people walked on frozen and slick rocks this morning, the sun rose like it does everyday and made for a great day to 18,000’. Our Camp 2 is technically the now closed Guanacos Route, Camp 3. It is placed between two old snowfields that would have been glaciers maybe a few hundred years ago. With views of the Polish Glacier to our south and the heavily glaciated peaks to the North we couldn’t get a better place to enjoy the afternoon. The Team has been putting in hard work and it’s paid off with a day off for Christmas, Festivus or whatever they celebrate. If we hadn’t taken a day off there might have been some airing of grievances and a few feats of strength. Fortunately, the guides have some treats planned and nice breakfast for the group. The winds that were forecasted have been pushed back a few days and we are all grateful that the dead still air has allowed for such a great trip above Plaza Argentina. Everyone sends their love back home for the holidays.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
It is possible that someone picked out the shape of the sun behind the clouds today... at some point. But most of us just saw light snow falling from thick, low, constantly gray skies. The wind took a break, which certainly made sleeping easier last night. At breakfast, the notice was already up on a whiteboard “no flights today” with a frowny face after it. No suspense. My team made the best of it. We went out at mid morning for a trudge around the marked 10k course. It hasn’t been groomed lately, but we found the walking to be manageable without too much sinking in. Call it a day of walking in beach sand. With the usual slight danger of freezing one’s face, hands and feet at the beach.
We were back at
Union Camp for lunch and afternoon lectures. Following dinner, ALE guide Rob Smith gave a riveting talk on climbing K2 this past July.
Anybody’s guess as to whether the weather will break to allow a flight tomorrow. Eddie, the Kiwi cat driver extraordinaire, doubled the height of our already impressive snow wall. We can handle a small hurricane now.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The sun hit camp around 7:20 am and the Team got a slow roll to the day. We ate a delicious egg and potato scramble before packing up our cache items. The calm and warm morning facilitated getting out of camp by 10:30. The terrain between the two camps is comprised of three traverses to gain the 1,600’ elevation gain. Between the first and second traverse is the
Ameghino Col which provides a sprawling view of the Andes with several glaciated and snow covered peaks. It’s likely the most scenic and photographed part of the climb.
We were in Camp 2 at 18,000’ in just under three hours with about 45 minutes to relax and gather our cached items. A cache for those who don’t know is where a climbing team will bury their gear, food and fuel so weather, winds and birds can’t get to it. In our situation we cover our cache with rocks. The Team performed well and descended back to Camp 1 for some well deserved rest in warm tents, gently swaying in a light breeze.
There are reports of increasing wind starting on the 24th and lasting for 3-4 days. If we are all feeling good in the morning, we will move our camp to 18,000’ for the storm and batten down the tents for Christmas and a few rest days.
Thanks for following along, the Team sends it’s love to the family and friends back home.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
The wind blew hard last night... all night. Not hard enough to destroy tents, but hard enough to keep one awake and wondering about destruction. It died down by morning and we got out under low clouds and lightly falling snow... which didn’t change much for the rest of the day. It was pretty obviously a no-fly day. So we ate, we walked, we talked, drank tea and coffee and calculated changes to schedules and itineraries. There were hints of hopes for flights tomorrow, and then there were notices saying not to get hopes up for tomorrow. The evening’s activity was a team trivia contest. Our gang came in third out of four teams and considered it a victory as the contest veered from Antarctic history toward a who’s who in contemporary pop music.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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