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RMI Expeditions Blog


Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Return to Base Camp, Unable to Summit

Hello from Ama Dablam Base Camp! Are you unsuccessful when you don't reach the summit of one of your objectives? Well, I think that if you have carefully prepared for it and put yourself in the best position for it, despite little odds in our favor according to the forecast, and you make the decision to head down because the one thing you can't control is totally out of control, then yes, you're successful. It was windy when we arrived at our High Camp, it was windy throughout our short stay, and it was like a freight train when it was time to go. There's no way we could fight on the steep, cold and dangerous slopes of Ama's southeast ridge what "Eolus" had in store for us. So the only thing we could do, knowing that we had waited until the very last day, was to be smart and head down. Undefeated, because in the mountains what counts is telling the story. But sure disappointed to not to have been able to climb just a bit more. But oh well, we're now back to the safety of our lodge at Base Camp, and we'll stay our descent tomorrow, eager for thicker air and why not, to start closing up our Himalayan adventure. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Check in from Camp 2

Namaste from Ama Dablam Camp 2, We climbed to the famous Yellow Tower, surmounting the most technical terrain that this route presents. We dragged our feet leaving Camp 1 as to get bathed by the sun a little bit. Then we crossed with ease the beautiful yet incredibly exposed crest with several hundreds of feet to drop on either side, contemplating how the now distant Base Camp became smaller and smaller down in the valley. The winds are strong here, but the sun shines and it is comfortable inside the tents. Air feels thin, but our acclimatization process has been productive. We're going to hope for the best with the winds and we will put up a good fight, smart though, but we won't know until we get higher later tomorrow morning. We sure hope to make a phone call from the summit! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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Go Dad! Can’t wait to hear about it!

Posted by: Holland on 11/16/2018 at 8:17 pm

Enjoy the sunset and the sunrise !
You must have some view

Posted by: Vivian on 11/16/2018 at 10:15 am


Ama Dablam: Elias & Team at Camp 1 on Summit Push

Hello! We are at C1. A long day brought us here under clear skies. We're alone here and we presume it will be the same at C2 when we arrive later today. Not much to report other than we had an incredible sunset last night, perched here on Ama Dablam's ridge. Let's keep hoping for the winds to die in the next day or two! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Ready for Summit Bid

Hello! And we are going up! After another rest day at Ama Dablam Base Camp, all is packed and ready and we are starting our summit bid. We know that the winds are forecasted to be strong, so it is going to be a toss up. But we continue to see blue skies every day, so we're going to do what's common in these cases, "prepare for the worst and hope for the best." Stay tuned for our progress up high! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
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Looking great !
May the mountain gods be with you - we are rooting for you from the couch wishing that we are on the mountain !

Posted by: Vivian on 11/15/2018 at 2:34 am

Be safe!!!!

Posted by: lisa maiser on 11/14/2018 at 5:01 pm


Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Practice Patience at Base Camp

Hello again. After a rest day yesterday at Ama Dablam Base Camp, where we practiced some of the rope techniques we'll implement on our ascent, today we're in a holding pattern for the weather. Our camps are stocked thanks to the help of our Sherpa, and we're ready to go when the time is right. In the meantime, we continue to execute expedition life; patience at it's best. RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos
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Well you all look healthy and happy!

Holding pattern? You must have an airline pilot in the group

Posted by: lisa maiser on 11/13/2018 at 8:14 am


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Conclude Trip

We call it mountain climbing not mountain summiting. Sometimes you travel long distances and spend many days preparing and you dont get to climb. We didnt get to climb anything on this trip. It turned into a high altitude cultural trek. But that is all ok. I know I have, and I'm sure the rest of the team, has learned some things. We will all remember this experience forever. We took many nationalities, languages, personalities, and experience levels onto this expedition. We got to experience rituals, sacrifices, festivals, home cooked meals and more. We saw and experienced the far west Nepal region in a way nobody gets to. I will remember all the people I have met along the way and shared delicious meals with. This will not be my last time in Nepal. I already look forward to coming back and drinking my weight in milk tea. Till next time Nepal. I look forward to climbing one of your beautiful mountains in the near future. Namaste, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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Congratulations on your venture learning experience. I am in awe of you all!

Mich

Posted by: Michelle the Mom on 11/13/2018 at 9:59 pm


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Arrive at Hotel in Talkot

Today we could see the light at the end of the tunnel. By the end of the day we would be back in civilization, back using the wifi. All that stood between us was seven hours of walking and a two hour jeep ride. All went well on our walk out, besides a sprained ankle. But with a good tape job by our doctor Jorge and some ibuprofen we made it. Promptness isn't much of a thing around here, so after waiting for just over two hours our jeeps arrived and we made the bumpy ride back to our holiday inn in Talkot. Tomorrow we will take a bus back to Dahngadi where we fly back to Kathmandu. We are quite excited for our showers tonight and a bed. What a journey, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Reach Ama Base Camp

We made it to Ama Dablam Base Camp! Right on time for lunch, the team pulled into the little hut (we're avoiding tents at the base of the mountain) and we have been just resting, hydrating and eating. We're motivated as acclimatization seems to be doing its job, and we're expectant to see what the weather brings in. In the mean time, tomorrow we'll be on schedule resting and practicing our ascending techniques here at Base Camp, and allowing our bodies to "do their thing in getting themselves ready" RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos
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Good luck to all!

Posted by: Beverly on 11/12/2018 at 1:21 am

Elias,
We are close by having just finished Mera Peak!! Good luck to you and team.  And from one Spaniard to another remember…....You have to make sure you look good!
Gene

Posted by: Gene Limia on 11/12/2018 at 1:16 am


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Continue Descent and Family Visit

We ate cookies for breakfast in a smokey room with tea. Shortly after we said goodbye to Laxmi and started our walk back to where we left our duffles. The only communication in these parts in by a messenger, word of mouth. When we left our duffles, the plan was that some duffles would keep going to Chainpur and our trekking duffles would be left waiting for us. We also thought the rest of our team would be there waiting. But the plan has clearly changed with no message for there were no duffles where we left them and all the porters and team members gone. We aren't sure exactly where they are or when we will see the rest of our team and duffles. But for now we are staying at another homestay. We will all sleep up in the attic and enjoy a home cooked meal of Dahl baht and chapati bread with black tea. From day one this journey has been fluid and unpredictable, so we will see what tomorrow brings. Goodnight, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
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Mexico’s Volcanoes: King & Team Descend Safely & Return to Tlachichuca

We had a great summit day on Orizaba; cold at times, warm at times and lots of new snow on a mountain that desperately needs it. The descent from the summit was warm and straightforward, what else could you ask for? The Team is staying in a turn of the century soap factory turned climbers hostel, packing for their flights tomorrow and enjoying some showers and refreshments to wrap up another great Mexico Volcanoes trip. RMI Guide Mike King
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