RMI Expeditions Blog

Elevation: 12,300'

The Four Day Summit Climbs August 31 - 3 September were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guides Brent Okita & Zeb Blais reported poor visibility and increased winds and precipitation as the teams reached the top of Disappointment Cleaver (12,300'). The teams made the decision to turn around at that point and return to Camp Muir. The teams were able to relax at Camp Muir before starting their descent to Paradise. We look forward to meeting the groups at Rainier BaseCamp later this morning.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Turn around point very appropriate…Disappointment Ridge!
I know it is disappointing to not be able to attain your ultimate goal, but don’t discount the level of accomplishment you did achieve!
Congratulations to the team for all your dedication to the endeavor, and most especially to you Doug. You have pursued your dream and made us all exceedingly proud. Luv U and anxious to see you and hear all about it!
Mom Griz

Posted by: Nancy Crane on 9/5/2013 at 6:57 am

Dear Dan
Wow! What an adventure. You, the elements, and the mountain. Ain’t she magnificent? Even in the dark. Life will never be the same. Congratulations!to both of you!!
Love,
Kay

Posted by: Kay on 9/3/2013 at 5:44 pm

Mt. Elbrus: Waterfall & Team Safe and Sound at Basecamp

September 2, 2013

Elevation: 8,300'

Hi, this is Seth. We're all back down at basecamp. It was a bummer to walk down today without the summit but that's the way it goes sometimes. Everyone was in good spirits even though we didn't top out. The weather has just not cooperated with us for a summit bid. We were never able to reach high camp and that forced us to try to go for the top from Camp 1. Even then the winds pushed us back after just a few hours. Like I said, that's the way it goes sometimes. The important thing is that we've all descended safe and sound. We have some great stories that is for sure. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Team -

BUMMER !!

I just returned from Burning Man where we battle wind and dust instead of wind and snow. I’m sorry to hear that Elbrus has been throwing up roadblocks for you guys. Sounds totally different than when I was there in July. St. Petersburg is a fabulous city. You’ll all love it.

Seth - Looking forward to seeing you and Dave down at Vinson in 3 months.

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 9/3/2013 at 12:31 pm

James and team

I hope you have a wonderful time in St. P!

I am rEally looking forward to hearing your stories, learning more about the partcular challenges you faced and safely addressed, and hearing about your next mega-goal and adventure. Your couageous acts and actvities are very inspiring and motivational to me!!!

Travel safely,

Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 9/3/2013 at 4:03 am

Mountaineering Training | Next Steps: After The Climb

September 2, 2013

Posted by: Linden Mallory

Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training

Coming off of a big climb or expedition often leads to the question, “What’s next?” The first priority is to take time to rest and recover. Any adventure in the mountains is a big physical and mental effort, and recovery time is valuable. Some light activity to stretch the legs can be a good idea but it's not always beneficial to jump back into intense workouts right away. In order to come back stronger, you need to recover first. Recovery time not only helps you physically recuperate but also gives you a mental break. When you do return to your training, you can do so with renewed motivation and excitement. After a few good nights of sleep, take a moment to reflect on your past training and the climb itself: what worked in your training? What didn’t? What were you surprised about in the climb and how can you prepare better in the future? Take the extra minute to dig into this a bit, identify some key takeaways, and note these down. For example, a few weeks after coming home with my tail between my legs from my first expedition to a remote peak in the Andes, I realized that while I felt aerobically strong throughout the climb, it took only a slight increase in pace or pack weight to send my exertion level through the roof. Additionally, the loose rocks of the lower mountain, fields of penitentes, and hard ice of the route were challenging to move across in a fluid manner, constantly testing my balance and ultimately wearing me out after a long day. In my training following the expedition, I focused on incorporating more interval training to increase my anaerobic threshold and to give me a larger aerobic capacity. I also incorporated more balance exercises into my gym routines, aimed at improving my ability to climb comfortably and efficiently despite the uncertainties of the terrain. On my next expedition, I was amazed at how much I gained by focusing on my weaknesses in my training. With these area of focus noted, consider what you want to do next. If you’re eager to get back in the mountains, where do you want to go and what are the appropriate steps to get you there? Maybe it's to climb Mt. Rainier by way of another route? Are your sights set on 18,000’ or 19,000’ peaks like those in Mexico or Ecuador? Perhaps it’s the goal of climbing one of the Seven Summits like Aconcagua or McKinley? After identifying your goal, do a little digging into what that climb looks like and what physical efforts are needed. What are the defining characteristics of the climb in terms of altitude, length, weight of pack, and technical skills? What kind of training do you need to focus on in order to tackle those challenges? Multi-week expeditions like Aconcagua or Denali require different preparation than a climb of several days like the North Cascades, Mexico, or Ecuador. Take a look at your takeaways from your last climb and compare them with the challenges of your next climb. If it's a long expedition with heavy packs, maybe you need to build your aerobic strength and endurance to handle the extended exertion of the climb. If it's a shorter trip, perhaps it's improving your overall aerobic capacity while also increasing your strength and flexibility to meet the needs of the climb. Completing these mental exercises helps bring your training path into focus. Continue to be strategic in your training, and it's not a bad idea to build benchmarks along the way to keep track of your progress. Most of all, keep having fun. As climbers, it’s not just the summit day that generates the passion and excitement for us (although that’s often the most recognizable aspect to others), it’s the entire process of dreaming of a climb, working hard to plan and prepare for it, realizing it as you set foot on the mountain, and relishing in the memories afterwards. ________ Linden Mallory is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions. Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

Mt. Rainier: September 2nd

September 2, 2013

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Leon Davis

Elevation: 12,700'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Leon Davis were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams returned to Camp Muir at 7:45 am from their high point of 12,700'. While at Camp Muir the teams will gear up for their descent to Paradise; we look forward to greeting them when they arrive back at Rainier Basecamp later today.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Mom and Aunt Kathy congratulations on a wonderful adventure! You worked so hard and I can’t wait to hear about the beautiful climb.

Posted by: Camilla on 9/3/2013 at 3:56 pm

Mom and Aunt Kathy—
Congrats!!! So proud of you both. Sorry the weather didn’t collaborate but I’m sure it was beautiful and so fun!

Posted by: katie on 9/3/2013 at 9:08 am

Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Tries for the Summit

September 1, 2013

Elevation: 12,300'

Hey there, this is Seth checking in from Camp 1 on the northside of Mount Elbrus. We tried to go to the summit tonight, last night, but that was not to be for us. The wind is out of control, you might be able to here my tent flapping in the breeze. Although calm when we woke up, the snow had stopped about a foot to two feet, where it had drifted in. Pete Van Deventer and I broke trail for a few thousand feet towards the summit. The winds just steadily grew and grew as we climbed. And just became to where we couldn't really see too far in front of our faces anymore due to ground blizzard conditions and decided it just wasn't safe. The winds have been decreasing on our descent and back down here at high camp, we are all hunkered in all safe and sound. Tomorrow brings a new day and we'll check in then. Ciao. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

RMI Guide Seth Waterfall checks in after the Mt. Elbrus summit attempt.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

James and team, based on your blog, time is running out for your climb to the summit. Trust that you will follow team’s prudent decision putting your safety a top priority. Hanging in there together.

Posted by: Soonja Choo on 9/2/2013 at 7:55 am

James and team

I suspect you are disappointed not being able to achieve a very important part of your trek. It’s hard to be in great shape, pumped-up and ready to reach a summit.

From reading your blog it doesn’t sound like your weather and conditions allowed you to safely reach the top of Mount Elbrus at this time. Many of us who choose to climb with RMI appreciate, admire and want guides and leadership that are able and willing to always put our safety first. I am sure I am not alone in thanking Seth and Pete for using such sound judgement. You are all so important to us.

Hang in there, support one another, focus on descending safely, and really try to enjoy the history, architecture and other beautiful aspects of St. P.

Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 9/2/2013 at 6:57 am

Mt. Shuksan: Mike Walter’s Team Summit Via Fisher Chimneys!

September 1, 2013

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 9,127'

Jeff and I had a great day yesterday. We climbed from Lake Ann up through the Fisher Chimneys and established camp at the edge of the Upper Curtis. After a nice long lunch, we packed our light summit packs and headed out. We reached the summit via the Southeast ridge at about 4:50pm, and had it all to ourselves. We arrived back at camp at around 7:25 last night. Today we'll likely do some ice climbing this morning before packing up camp and heading back down through the Chimneys. But first, it's coffee time! RMI Guide Mike Walter

Mt. Elbrus: Waterfall & Team One Last Shot for the Summit

September 1, 2013

Elevation: 12,300'

It's just another day in the tents here on Mt. Elbrus. We've been getting snow since about 3am last night. Fortunately we have not had much wind so that has kept our sanity mostly intact. We are nearing the end of our trip now. With only a couple more days left before we need to be back in basecamp, we're trying to come up with a plan that could still put us on top without risking us missing our flights to St. Petersburg. What we're thinking of right now is a single push from Camp 1 to the summit and back tonight. That will allow us to descend to basecamp the following day. Barring that we may have to return home safe and sound but without the summit. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Seth: A comment you taught me could be appropriate at this time: the three P’s, perserverance, patience and a positive attitude along with a bit of luck will get you there! Best on a safe climb!

Posted by: phil usher on 9/1/2013 at 6:33 pm

Choo and team,

Bit bummed to read about the weather stalling things but I’m sure you’re still making the most of it! Only a success if you make it up…and back down…so be safe!!! Fingers crossed and sending wishes/thoughts/prayers for it to open up and give you a chance if it is right!!!

Pulling for ya! Enjoy and have fun!

Posted by: Lauren on 9/1/2013 at 4:17 pm

Mt. Rainier: September 1, 2013

September 1, 2013

Posted by: Tyler Reid

Elevation: 11,200'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Tyler Reid and Garrett Stevens made the prudent decision to call 11,200' the team's high point after encountering firm, icy conditions. The team is making its way across the Cowlitz Glacier towards Camp Muir. Once back at Camp Muir, everyone will refuel, rest, and repack for the descent back to Paradise. We look forward to seeing the team back in Ashford early this afternoon.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Kathy and Michelle, Even though the weather didn’t cooperate, I couldn’t be prouder of my two sisters! Love, Tamra

Posted by: Tamra on 9/3/2013 at 7:27 am

Michelle,
This looks so spectacular! Enjoy the rest of your time in Seattle, cant wait to hear all about it. Love Trish

Posted by: Trish Moss on 9/2/2013 at 12:42 pm

Mt. Elbrus: Waterfall & Team Hit by a Weather Storm

August 31, 2013

Elevation: 11,200'

Well hello again from Camp 1. We're still waiting for some good weather. Last night was a wet, windy and wild one. At about 10pm the side of my tent hit me in the face and woke me up. The next several hours were very blustery. At around 1am the wind died completely and the thunder and lightning started. As the flashes got closer and closer the wind picked up and blew the thunderhead out. Then it started to snow. By the time we started breakfast everything at our elevation had chilled out. It was a hilarious discussion as we related our tent experiences from the night. There was a large cap on Mt. Elbrus but everyone was still game to go for an acclimatization climb. We had to wait for one more snow squall to move through but we made it to 14,420' a new altitude record for some folks. Once we got back to camp it was almost dinner time. We're all done with dinner now and Pete and I have cleaned up the pots and put the stoves away for the night. We're anxiously awaiting tomorrow as there is another storm forecasted but we're hoping it passes us by. We want to climb! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

James and team

Sure sounds dramatic over and up there! Very glad to hear everyone is safe. Looking foward to hearing the team continue ascendig as the weather permits. Be safe!

(Heading out now to mix with the Harley riders who have ridden into town to celebrate the company,s 110th year. Quite loud and exciting!)

Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 9/1/2013 at 5:09 am

Hi everyone & Doug
I’m sorry your weather has not cooperated.The forecast for 5000m & 5600m for Monday looks clear & sunny. I hope you can summit Monday.Stay safe & take pictures.
Lorraine

Posted by: Lorraine Quinn on 8/31/2013 at 10:43 pm

Mt. Rainier: August 31, 2013 Update

August 31, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Elevation: 11,800'

The Four Day Summit Climb Led by RMI Guide Dave Hahn reached 11,800’ feet today before encountering firm and icy conditions on the route which forced them to turn around. Dave Hahn reported clear skies and beautiful weather. The team is currently descending from Ingraham Flats and will be back at RMI Basecamp in the early afternoon. Congratulations to today's teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great job Nathaniel and Matthew - darn weather, atleast the weather let you go further this time than you did last time! Glad you could enjoy the adventure together! I love you both!!!

Posted by: Mama J on 8/31/2013 at 12:08 pm

Dear Jeff and Catherine et al,
We’re so sorry that inclement weather thwarted your ascent up Ranier!Glad that you’re encountering sunny skies on your descent. Our prayers for you and your team continue!
Love you both!!
Dad and Momma et al

Posted by: JimandDiana Smith on 8/31/2013 at 8:35 am