RMI Expeditions Blog
Just as planned, we spent today lounging at
Camp 1. Snow plumes off of the col above us indicated high winds this morning, and made us glad we had gotten our carry out of the way yesterday. Otherwise, the sky was clear, and the sun we had been missing for the last couple days made things pleasantly warm. Today was a day for recovery, organizing for tomorrow, and eating all of the extra lunch food we could. Tomorrow will be our move to
Camp 2 (18,000 ft)! We'll check from there.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the RMI Aconcagua team
RMI Guides
Tyler Reid and
Solveig Waterfall make first ski descent of The Pipeline on Mt. Angeles in the Olympic Mountains of Washington.
Follow this
link to Tyler’s blog for more exciting photos!
The team was up by 6:30 and out the door by 7:30 after a quick breakfast. We loaded up all the gear and food then drove for just over a hour to
Kilimanjaro National Park. Once we were at the park entrance we registered our team and picked the 20+ porters to help us along the way. We were the first team to start walking thankfully, as a team of 100 showed up and began picking their 300+ porters. It was busy at the gate but we managed to stay out front all the way to camp. It was far from a perfect day here on
Kilimanjaro. We encountered a very heavy rain after about two hours of hiking that soaked us almost to the bone. Everyone did great and remained positive despite the less than ideal weather.
We are currently relaxing in our tents now that the rain has subsided and are getting ready for dinner. Tomorrow we'll have more than a few items hanging from our pack to dry in the sun.
Enjoying the adventure!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
Last night was a windy one, though when we woke we realized that it sounded much worse inside the tents than it was outside. A couple centimeters of new snow fell overnight freshening up our surroundings, but it was quickly transported by the wind with much of it ending up in the vestibules of our tents. With some sun above and winds not too bad, we decided to make our carry to
Camp 2 to cache food and personal gear. As we hoped, the winds stayed relatively light, and we had a pleasant climb. Throughout this climb, we have been just behind a large crowd, so that we hear rumors of camps being full, but arrive to find them deserted. It appeared today that everyone had just vacated
Camp 2 for high camp. This works in our favor as we don't have to fight for tent sites.
As we began our descent, the winds strengthened, with several strong gusts. We were all happy to get back to the tents and crawl into fluffy sleeping bags for the afternoon to recover from yet another big effort. With a great meal of tortellini sticking to our ribs, everyone is psyched for the scheduled rest day tomorrow.
Cheers,
Aconcagua Campo Uno residents
On The Map
We are excited to share a weekly trainings series from the book Fit to Climb: The Adventx 16 week Mount Rainier Training Program authored by former RMI Guide John Colver! This conditioning plan is designed to help you train for a successful
Mount Rainier climb.
As the plan unfolds you’ll quickly gain momentum, achieving milestones, and navigating each phase of training. Before you’re halfway through, you’ll feel confident in your abilities and have experienced significant physical gains.
Features of the Fit To Climb plan are:
• A progressive training schedule with measurable milestones
• A weekly chart with day by day workout descriptions
• The ‘Rainier Dozen’ daily strengthening workout
• Tips on cross-training and alternative training options
• Instruction on aerobic endurance, anaerobic endurance, and strength training
• Nutrition for training and climbing
• Tips on motivation, goal setting, and mental preparation
The Fit To Climb Program is designed to be done anywhere and with the minimal of equipment. No matter where you live, you’ll be able to participate and each week you’ll build strength and endurance for the climb ahead.
The 16 weeks are comprised of four phases:
• Phase one = Adaptation Training (Weeks 1 - 2)
• Phase two = Foundation Training (Weeks 3 - 10)
• Phase three = Peak Training (Weeks 10 - 15)
• Phase four = Expedition (Week 16)
These phases are the building blocks, each ending in milestones. We start with general conditioning, then add endurance, followed by the addition of high intensity interval training in the peak phase and ending with a short ‘tapering’ phase during the final preparation in the week before your climb.
The timing commitment of the Fit To Climb Program varies. The Adaption and Foundation Training Phases ask for 4 - 7 hours a week of training. During the Peak Training Phase the focus is on building solid and aerobic endurance with long training sessions and the plan calls for 10 - 15+ hrs of training per week. It’s a big time commitment so plan ahead and try and prepare your schedule to handle the increased training demands. For some tips, see RMI’s collection of ideas to
maximize the time and the find the right terrain for your training.
The timing of the sixteen weeks is designed to prepare you for Mount Rainier climb that is four months away. If your climb is later or sooner you can adjust the timing as necessary, either getting a head-start or beginning in the appropriate week.
The Fit To Climb Program can easily be tailored to prepare you for any mountain beyond Mt. Rainier. In developing training plans for other climbs, plan your training with the end in mind: is the major challenge the high altitude, extreme temperatures, heavy pack, or multiple days or weeks?
As you create the training map, ensure that there are stepping stones to gain new skills and strengths as well as milestones where you can "test" your ability. One principle of training for mountaineering in all ranges, is that aerobic endurance conditioning is the primary training component for most climbers. Start by making sure that you have what it takes to "go long," then focus on the specific challenges of your climb or expedition.
The Fit To Climb training program is rigorous and to complete it in its entirety requires a substantial commitment of time and effort. Do people follow it to-the-letter? Sometimes yes, often no - people become ill, work or family situations come up and the best plans work on the basis of flexibility. A paradox of training for a major climb is that we want to set the bar high in training in order to replicate the demands we’ll have during the expedition, however, we also want to maintain confidence if we fall short of a training session or goal. It’s rarely a linear process; sometimes we feel awful just when we expected to be strong, sometimes our perfect plan goes sideways, and sometimes we feel doubt when everything has been completed perfectly.
As you start the process, think of the key elements of success: Maintain momentum, rest when you need to, push hard when you feel strong, and constantly think about how you can recover well. And most importantly, be confident that your efforts will pay off; many people have climbed and succeeded in their goals while having not completed all of the training or while feeling sub-par. I remind myself that one can miss a few classes and still graduate. It’s progress, not perfection, that counts.
- John Colver
Have a question? See the
Fit To Climb FAQ for explanations of specific exercises and general pointers to help you through the Fit To Climb Program.
John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his
adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle, and is working on his second book, Fit To Climb - a 16 week Mount Rainier Fitness Program.
Jambo (Hello) from Africa,
The team arrived late last night after some very long flights (18hrs). We wasted no time getting back to the hotel and called it a night after a quick dinner. This morning we had our team meeting and discussed the upcoming climb and gear needed. We then took a break and enjoyed a little sunshine by the pool. Its basically summer here and most of us are on vacation after all. After lunch we took a short ride into Arusha and did a little sightseeing.
Arusha is busy city of 300'000+ with a very rural and simple feeling. The team has just finished a wonderful 5 course meal provided by the
Dik Dik Hotel and are headed off to bed.
We'll be getting up early and headed for the trailhead tomorrow so that all for tonight.
RMI Guide
Casey Grom & Team
We made the move to
Aconcagua Camp 1! We're now resting in our tents at 16800' or so. The group did great and climbed strong. When we woke, there were clouds over the summit, and towards the end of our first stretch, a sudden snow squall blew threw, sending us scrambling for our hard shells. For the next couple of hours, sun alternated with clouds, making it hard to choose the correct layers. Just as we got ready for the last hard climb up a scree hill to camp, the snow set in in earnest. The group did great getting camp set quickly so everyone could get into shelter. We're settled in for the night now, and our hope is to wake to nice weather so that we can bump a cache of food and gear to
Camp 2 tomorrow. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and crew
On The Map
It's been a lazy day here at Plaza Argentina, which was exactly what the doctor ordered after the group's big effort yesterday. We woke late, cooked up a big batch of crêpes stuffed with bacon, fried apples, and dulce de leche for brunch. A few hours later, after books, more jokes, and a card game, we fried up some croque monsieur (sense the French food theme today?), and then went for a nice hour-long stroll up towards Ibañez, a sub peak outside of
Basecamp. As hard as it can be to motivate for a hike after a day like yesterday, it really does aid and speed recovery. Our gear that will stay at Basecamp is sorted, and we are very ready for our move to
Camp 1 tomorrow! Just one more delicious Argentine meal first...
Hasta luego,
RMI Guides Pete, Leon, Mike, and the team
Today the group woke to a cold and snow covered base camp. In preparation of our carry to Camp 1 the team received their loads yesterday. We started walking after breakfast and hot drinks. Our goal today was to cache our food and equipment for the upper mountain, while climbing higher then descending to help acclimate. Climbing through loose scree with heavy packs is always an eye opener for what lies ahead. The team climbed strong and enjoyed a blue sky with light winds. We spent an hour at 16,000+ before returning down to
Aconcagua Basecamp as an evening storm approached. There is a day off tomorrow, which the entire team is looking forward to.
Cheers
RMI Guide Mike King and crew
On The Map
Despite being a rest day, today has flown by for the group. We were able to sleep in a bit, but most were woken at 7:30 to the park helicopter hovering low over camp, picking up barrels in a sling to be flown off the mountain. We took a leisurely breakfast of burritos with fresh veggies, bacon, cheese, and eggs, and then headed to the medical building for our obligatory check-up. Everyone passed with flying colors. Then it was time for gear sorting for our carry to
Camp 1 tomorrow. This often takes longer than expected as everyone hemmed and hawed over how much lunch food and other items to bring up. To this point, we have been spoiled with the mules carrying most of our kit. From here up though, anything we bring up, we will carry down.
Sorting finished, everyone took a siesta, eating lunch, taking naps, playing cards, and reciting Chuck Norris jokes. Despite a forecast of clear weather for the foreseeable future, the clouds built this afternoon, and as we sit, it is snowing gently at
Basecamp.
We'll have more news tomorrow when we are back from our carry. Ciao.
RMI Guides Mike King, Pete Van Deventer, Leon Davis, and the team
“Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far they can go.”
—T.S. Eliot
Posted by: Janet on 1/30/2013 at 11:51 am
Wishing you all a calm & clear day for the next big push - Best of luck tomorrow! Lots of Love, Mom & Dad
Posted by: Paula & Bill VanDeventer on 1/29/2013 at 5:18 pm
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