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Entries By leif bergstrom


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams on the Summit

The Four Day Climb August 17 - 20 led by RMI Guides Mike Walter and Nikki Champion reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Mike reported moderate winds and a busy route.  Camp Muir sandwiched between two layers of clouds, dense clouds above Camp Muir and a light marine layer above Paradise currently.  The climbers will take a short break at Camp Muir to repack and re-hydrate before starting down to Paradise.  Once at Paradise the shuttle will return the climbers to Rainier BaseCamp where they will conclude their program with a short ceremony.

Nice work today everyone!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Yay! Well done Team! So happy for you all!

Posted by: Alice Schenk on 8/21/2022 at 5:01 am

Great news!

Posted by: Linda Ramge on 8/20/2022 at 9:03 am


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Teams Makes Sunset Climb

The Five Day Climb teams July 30 - 3 August led by RMI Guides Jack Delaney and Abby Westling made a sunset climb to the summit yesterday evening.  The teams reached the crater rim around 8 pm and quickly began their descent as fairly strong winds accommpanied them the entire climb. The climb went well and the team was stoked to summit even with the constant winds.  As of 7 am the climbers were sleeping in at Camp Muir with plan to start their descent to Paradise around 10 or 11 am.

Congratulations team!

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Mt. Rainier: Walter & Kautz Seminar Reach Point Success

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz July 22 - 27 led by RMI Guide Mike Walter reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team reached the crater rim at 6 am and tagged Point Success.  They will return to their high camp for their final night on the mountain and descend tomorrow to the trailhead.

Nice work team!

Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. Rainier: Grom and Antenucci Lead Four Day Climb Teams to Summit

The Four Day Climb July 17 - 20 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Casey Grom & Kiira Antenucci.  The teams enjoyed clear skies, sunshine and light winds today.  After enjoying the views and spending time in the crater they began their descent from the crater rim around 6:45 am. Once back at Camp Muir they will pack up and continue down to Paradise.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Awesome job!  Parking lot is next.

Posted by: Rene Gonzalez on 7/20/2022 at 10:12 am


Mt. Rainier: Team Reaches Summit!

The Four Day Climb Led by RMI Guide Brent Okita reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Brent reported clear skies above and a great climbing route.

Congratulations team! 

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

That was Kristian Whittaker’s 25th Birthday - climb.  How cool he summited with his sister, Gabriella and her boyfriend Leif.  I, Erika, was so fortunate to meet up with the kids at Camp Muir and walk back to Paradise with them and with Brent Okita and my good friend, Anne M.  So grateful for this day back on Mt. Rainier with both my kids. :).  Sorry I didn’t get to see any of the RMI office staff when I was at Basecamp.  Maybe next time.

Posted by: Erika Whittaker on 11/17/2022 at 9:36 pm


Kautz Seminar: Weather deters climb from Summit, Turn at 12,200’

RMI Guide Alex Halliday called from Cmap this afternoon. The team turned at 12,200', at the top of the Ice Chute, due to deteriorating weather. He reported cloudy condition, some snow but an overall nice day of climbing. Alex mentioned that despite the team turning, that everyone was stoked after their ascent of the Ice Chute.

Their plan is to walk back to Paradise tomorrow and retun to Basecamp in the early afternoon.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Lia & Chris:  Congratulations on making the climb.  Can’t wait to hear from both you about the adventure!  Very proud of both of you

Posted by: Marcella and Bill on 7/6/2022 at 7:34 am

To the most badass climbers Lia and Chris, we are so proud of you! At 12200 ft, we’re sure there was plenty cu-see cu-see cu-see. Can’t wait to hear all about your incredible adventure

Posted by: Ana & Yukichi on 7/5/2022 at 11:34 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Reach Summit at 7 am

RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier & Joe Hoch led their Four Day Climb June 26 - 20 teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Dustin reported windy conditions with a lenticular cloud above them for most of the climb.  However, the cloud had dissipated as they reached the crater rim and they were enjoying the sunshine as they crossing the crater to Columbia Crest. After celebrating on the summit, they will descend to Camp Muir, repack and continue down to Paradise.  We look forward to meeting the teams at Rainier BaseCamp later today.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Mt. Rainier: Kautz Seminar Enjoy Lots of Training, Turn due to Unstable Conditions

Matias and the Kautz seminar team will spend their last night on the mountain tonight and plan for an early departure off the mountain followed by more training at Basecamp in Ashford.

The guide team have the following to say in reflection of the last week of training:

We have spent the past 4 days and 3 nights experiencing the mountain and the heat that accompanied it this week. Our high point may have only been 9,400’ but an abundant of learning and training was accomplished.

After a scorching first day moving across the Nisqually Glacier, we decided to move to a night schedule, only climbing when the snow hadn’t been tarnished by the blistering sun. Very Denali-esque of us. We hit on rock climbing, mixed climbing, ice climbing, crevasse rescue and many other skills. Hot weather and beating sun created unstable snow conditions and difficult trail breaking. But as one participant said, “It’s not all about the summit on trips like this”, and we feel like we were able to accomplish all our training and learning goals. The wisping clouds float below us like pillows awaiting to catch us on our decent.

RMI Kautz Team,

George, Leif, Lauren, and Matias

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team On the Descent

Wednesday, June 1, 2022 - 12:52 am PT

Quick dispatch: We are homeward bound. We packed up camp at 17,000' and started down the West Buttress. We got to high five the team led by JT Schmitt as they passed us on their ascent. At 14,000, we regrouped, grabbed everything we had left, and considerably heavier, started towards 11,000' Camp. By 6 we had made it to 11,000'. The air is so much thicker! We dig up our cache from what seems like ages ago, and made a quick meal in team Champion's cook tent. We'll sleep for a few hours, then wake for an early push to the air strip. With any luck we'll be in Talkeetna mid morning tomorrow.

RMI Guide Pete, Leif, Erika, and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Thank you, thank you for taking us on this trip with you and for your commitment and skill in guiding your team safely.  We at home are grateful.  Barbara

Posted by: Barbara J Corona on 6/1/2022 at 9:47 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Reach Summit!

Summit Day Recap - Monday, May 30, 2022

Things were clear and calm this morning and it looked the perfect day to go for the summit. We fired stoves early, ate breakfast as the sun rose on camp, and packed our bags. We left for the Autobahn, a long ascending traverse from 17,000' Camp to Denali pass at 18,000'. To get there, we walked back into the morning shade which kept things chilly, but overall really pleasant. From Denali Pass, we climbed past Zebra rocks, still warm and pleasant and in the sun now. As we rounded the Arch Deacons Tower, the wind caught us. Probably 15-20 mph, but biting. We covered our faces and continued on. We were able to get a bit of respite from it on the Football Field, and up Pig Hill. The summit ridge had plumes streaming over it and it was touch and go whether we would be able to traverse the last piece of terrain. We tried and the initial piece was windy, but we were able to move through it and as we crossed over the ridge we got some protection. We summitted at 5:15pm, tagged the top and took a couple hasty photos, before heading back down.

Tomorrow we will pack camp and start moving towards the air strip. We'll stop to sleep for a few hours at 11,000' or the base of Ski Hill and then be in Base camp to hopefully catch rides back to civilization the following morning.

RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats to all !!
Carl, maybe Aconcagua next?

Posted by: Ron Jackson on 6/2/2022 at 3:30 pm

Congratulations to Matt and the rest of the team!

Posted by: Tucker M on 6/1/2022 at 7:00 am

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