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Ecuador Volcanoes: Beren & Team’s Decision on Cotopaxi

February 18, 2013

Posted by: Jake Beren, Ben Liken

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 18,400'

Greetings from Quito! Early this morning (or rather late last night), our team set off to try to climb Cotopaxi. When we woke there was a little precip, but we knew we could handle it and continued with our preparations to go see what we could do. Breaking trail through the new snow for hours this morning did little to slow down this team and we found ourselves high on the mountain before the sun had risen. At around 18,400 feet above the sea, crossing a reactive windslab above a gaping crevasse stopped us in our tracks, too risky to chance a crossing and our high point today. The team impressed me with their dedication to safety and a good time in the mountains over standing on a summit and Cotopaxi rewarded our judgment with a break in the storm to take in the sights of this beautiful mountain. Crossing crevasses, down climbing ice steps and navigating seracs in the early morning light was a real treat and we appreciated these features of the route even more as the weather rolled in for our last few moments before returning to the hut. A short nap and then down to the bus in the snow, so much for life in the tropics. It has been a real treat to share these climbs with such a good team, thanks everybody. RMI Guide Jake Beren

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Brilliant decision, team and leaders: L’chaim!

Posted by: nsb on 2/19/2013 at 5:41 am

Hurray! Great job, everyone!

Posted by: Caroline on 2/18/2013 at 1:22 pm

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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Team Enjoys Rest in Puebla

October 25, 2012

Posted by: JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico

Its not just about climbing mountains. Mountain adventures, especially international adventures, provide an opportunity to experience the whole enchilada. Seeing that we are in Mexico...no pun intended. And speaking of enchiladas and Mexico...today the team spent the day enjoying the local culture of Puebla. Everyone made the summit of Ixta yesterday. And everyone deserved a great day of rest, which mainly included enjoying the authentic cuisine of Puebla. I always said, "you've never eaten Mexican food, until you've eaten in Puebla". For breakfast we enjoyed scrambled eggs covered in mole sauce. For lunch we devoured tacos pastor. And now, we are preparing for dinner at one of Puebla's famous restaurants, where we will sample all of the mole sauces that have made this region famous. No, it's not all about climbing. However, tomorrow the team is looking forward to our next mountaineering objective... Pico de Orizaba. Stay tuned... RMI Guide JJ Justman

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Living Large at 14,000’ Camp

June 28, 2022

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Tatum Whatford, Seth Burns

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Monday, June 27, 2022 - 10:52 pm PT

This was a fine day of climbing. We were up at 5 AM and eating, packing and getting ready for almost three hours. We pulled out of 11,000 at 7:50 AM. There were steady breezes but it wasn’t particularly cold as we went up Motorcycle and Squirrel Hills in the shadows. It was blue sky overhead today, so it was definitely one of the nicer days we’ve had (though none have been bad). Sitting in the sunshine at Windy Corner, we could clearly see the Tordrillo Mountains anchoring the Alaska Range to the Southwest. Most eyes were on Mount Foraker though as it seems to get bigger every time we see it. We were around the corner without any difficulties and then out of the wind as we made our way up into Genet Basin. We pulled into the camp at 14,200 ft to join Andy Bond’s RMI team (who are several days ahead of us) and practically all the other teams on the mountain. We’d made it up in five and a half not too hard hours. Despite the fact that we were working at altitude to build a camp, conditions were quite calm and easy, so the work wasn’t too bad. We climbed into tents to hide from the sun and took our customary afternoon naps. The team finished dinner (mac and cheese) which is always a good sign. Tomorrow is an easier day -by design- just a short walk down to pick up our food and fuel above Windy Corner.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Vinson Massif: Team Almost Summits But There’s Still Time

December 12, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Elevation: 12,400'

Hard day of mountain climbing. We got up at five minutes to six this morning, excited that the sun was shining and the wind wasn't blowing. As we ate breakfast, we could see cloud moving in from the Northeast, but our hope was that we could climb before anything serious moved in. We set out from high camp at 8:15 and made good and steady progress. It was a tough day to dress for as everyone continually cycled from too hot to too cold and rarely spent any time being just right. We watched cloud caps forming and dissipating on the peaks as we gained altitude, but eventually the clouds just kept building on Vinson. We'd reached 15,340' with 700' to go... roughly two more hours to the top. But we couldn't do it. The winds had picked up and snow was flying and people were tired, so it was a lousy combination for tackling the exposed summit ridge in cold conditions. Down we went and into a cold headwind. As expected, life was a lot easier when we got out from under the cloud cap, and by the time we'd reached high camp we were back in blue skies and sunshine. Hard to come so close and come away without the summit... But we'll keep trying. We have more food, more fuel, more muscles and more ambition. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sterling, Tough Luck! But then that’s what all that training was about. You could probably do this a few more times. Hopefully the second try will be successful.
Good Luck!

Posted by: Dave & Shirley on 12/13/2012 at 3:21 pm

Hi, Jules!
Good luck on summit bid #2 and Seven Summits #7! You rock!
Lily

Posted by: Lily Lo on 12/13/2012 at 3:00 pm

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Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn Checks in from ABC

May 21, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 21,300'

This is Dave Hahn calling form Mt. Everest, and again tonight we are at Advance Base Camp. Our Plan had been to move up to the Lhotse Face and we tired we went out this morning with that as the goal, but unfortunately with Dan’s cough has not gone away and it has turned out to be debilitating as far as preventing us from going higher. It is not a danger to him, but going higher with it would be a problem. So, quick change of plans Dan is going to head down to Base Camp in the morning with Lama Babu, and Seth and I are going to try and keep up Tshering, Gyaljen and Kaji and our plan is to go all the way to high camp tomorrow and attempt the summit on the 23rd. The complication is that the weather forecast is kind of breaking down for those days and might be kind of dicey weather – We will have to see. We figure that will be our one chance and so it is up or down for all. Things should be moving around a fair amount for these next couple of days…we will see what happens. We are going to miss Dan as he heads back down to Base Camp, Lama Babu is happy to guide him down and we are expecting they will have a smooth descent and will be in Base Camp about the middle of tomorrow morning. That’s what’s going on here at Everest. We watched a lot of people tired people coming down from the Summit and from the Lhotse Face again today but it has starting to get though crowd a little bit, we have noticed traffic slacking a bit and that works in our favor. That’s all for now, Bye! RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Dave Hahn Calling from Advance Base Camp

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Dan, sorry to hear you had to turn back. You did extremely well to make it so far. Look forward to hearing about your trek when you return. Be safe!

Posted by: Steve on 5/24/2013 at 5:49 am

Danno!!!

You made a good choice in trekking with RMI. Your safety is the most important thing here and it’s great to hear that you’re in responsible hands and will be coming back in one piece.

Safe travels and don’t fret. There are plenty more mountains in your future.

Your friend - Jake

Posted by: Jake on 5/22/2013 at 10:08 pm

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Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Remain at 17,000 Camp

June 29, 2021

Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Devin Guffey

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Monday, June 28, 2021 - 10:37 pm PT

Good evening,

We went to bed with the excitment of going for the summit the following day. The sky was clear and all looked calm enough in the morning. The light was green for take off. As we packed for the day clouds began to build to the south. We hoped they would stay at bay but before long they were swollowing the upper mountain. Our nice looking day took a turn and the light turned to red. Instead of taking a walk, we took a nap. Today was not our day. Snow and clouds came and went throughout the day. Camp remained quiet as no one left for the summit. What is one more day of waiting if we can summit tomorrow? Weather is looking ok for tomorrow and we are hoping with everything we half left in us that tomorrow will in fact be the day we go for the top. Patience, food, and time are running low so here's for some good weather.

Good weather, good weather, good weather,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hannah and Dustin, I am sending good weather prayers for you and your team!!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/30/2021 at 3:08 am

We are all thinking about you and can’t wait to hear the good word!
Hoping by now you are excited to have reached your goal!
Mom & Dad

Posted by: Judy & Dale on 6/29/2021 at 1:31 pm

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North Cascades: Ammon & Team Summit Mt. Shuksan

August 24, 2019

Posted by: Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 9,131'

RMI Guide Ben Ammon and his team were 100% on the Mt. Shuksan summit! The team is currently working their way back to high camp. Congratulations to the Mt. Shuksan team!

Mt. Everest: RMI Sherpa Team Left BC to Begin Establishing Camp 3

May 6, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Lam Babu and our all-star Sherpa team were walking out of Basecamp by 4 this morning, bound for Advanced Basecamp (ABC). Their plan is to use the days ahead to establish Camp III on the Lhotse Face and to begin carries to the South Col. It is a good plan and works well with the climbing team intention to head up for a last "practice" rotation on the hill, sleeping as high as Camp III. We were going for that last difficult push starting tomorrow, but have now reconsidered. A cough has taken precedence, as coughs sometimes do in the month of May on Mount Everest. We've worked with this particular cough for weeks already and have no fondness for it. The judgement call has come down to: sleep at 24,000 ft, gaining valuable experience in a tough environment while coming down in time for a last rest before the summit bid... Or get healthy and banish the cough before trying for the top. Get Healthy won out. We'll stay down while the Sherpa team is up this time (they'll be back to BC in a few days). We'll put a priority on getting the climbing team strong and we'll contend with a longer-than-expected rest while carefully examining weather reports... On the lookout for a suitable "window" between the Jetstream and the Monsoon. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Dan,

Get healthy!!

I am still with you guys in spirit!

James

Posted by: James Fitch on 5/6/2013 at 7:06 pm

Get healthy and strong. I’ll be watching as you ascend to Camp III. Much luck with your overnight stay there.

Posted by: Terri Kinney on 5/6/2013 at 2:01 pm

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Kilimanjaro: Okita & Team Arrive At High Camp

July 23, 2022

Posted by: Brent Okita

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Elevation: 15,200'

Saturday, July 23, 2022 - 4:48 am PT

Excitement is building for all of us on the team. Our summit bid comes in a short 12 hours and the camp crew is hustling to get all ready for our efforts.

Our climbing team is equally excited as we move into our tents and get organized for the climb tonight. The good weather we've been enjoying has gotten even better the past two days and looks to hold for us tonight. We'll be doing lunch shortly where we'll have time to go over all the details that will help us be successful tonight. Then, some time to organize, an early dinner and bed by 6:00pm.

We're all ready to climb this mountain after an easy day today. Less than three hours of slow walking was a perfect way to get to this camp. We're in the volcanic zone now and have left the shrubs and greenery behind for more. Everyone is in excellent shape and feeling well at our High Camp at 15,200'.

Wish us luck!

RMI Guide Brent Okita

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Should be summiting right about now! Continued prayers!

Posted by: Caitlin Neal on 7/24/2022 at 6:13 am

Praying for great summit climb.

Posted by: Karen Szczesniak on 7/23/2022 at 4:50 pm

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Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Check in After Pequeno Alpamayo Summit

May 26, 2017

Posted by: Eric Frank, Caleb Ladue

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 17,618'

Hey everyone out there in blog land, this is Eric checking in from base camp in the Condoriri Group. Most of the team is snuggled into their sleeping bags for an afternoon siesta, because we already put in a full day of work by summiting Pequeño Alpamayo! After a 3am wake up call, we rolled out of camp in the darkness and made short work of the broad, rolling glacier that occupies the basin above our camp. By 7:30 we were at 17,500ft and the morning alpenglow turned all the peaks around us to a fiery orange. Words can't describe the immensity of the range. In every direction snow capped peaks roll out. The remainder of the route took us up steep snow ridges, over rocky towers and to a final summit that was smaller then a dinner table. The team crowded onto the small precipice and snapped a few photos before walking over the ridge to start the first lower. We are happy to report that everyone in the group made it. All for now. We head to La Paz tomorrow for a well deserved shower and respite before heading on to our next objective. RMI Guide Eric Frank

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Most Popular Entries

Ecuador Volcanoes: Beren & Team’s Decision on Cotopaxi

Mexico’s Volcanoes: Team Enjoys Rest in Puebla

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Living Large at 14,000’ Camp

Vinson Massif: Team Almost Summits But There’s Still Time

On The Map

Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn Checks in from ABC

Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Remain at 17,000 Camp

North Cascades: Ammon & Team Summit Mt. Shuksan

Mt. Everest: RMI Sherpa Team Left BC to Begin Establishing Camp 3

Kilimanjaro: Okita & Team Arrive At High Camp

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Check in After Pequeno Alpamayo Summit

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