Most Popular Entries
After a much need night of sleep in sheets and a good shower, we woke to the sultry sounds of automobiles, street vendors, university students, and music in the colorful city of Puebla. It always feels like going back in time walking up to buildings and streets built by skilled hands several millennia ago. We grubbed on a good breakfast of mole poblano and cafe con leche, then dispersed to make the most of our day out of synthetic apparel and climbing boots and proudly donned our flip flops with cotton. Some of us toured a world renown ceramic factory while others wandered the bright Zocola after getting a massage to work out the kinks from the previous climb. As usual the colonial hamlet of Puebla did not disappoint, and we found ourselves basking in the glow of a rest day earned.
RMI Guide Alan Davis
Friday, June 18, 2021 - 8:43 am PT
Good morning from Kahiltna Base Camp. We were packed and ready to fly all day yesterday, but the weather wouldn't cooperate with our plans. After playing the waiting game for most of the day, we finally loaded up the two turbine Otters and launched towards the Alaska Range. We arrived at Basecamp at around 6pm and set up shop here. We'll spend the day here today and move to the Base of Ski Hill tonight when the snow freezes back up.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
2010: On the Summit of Pico de Orizaba, Mexico. Lance is holding the RMI flag.
----
In honor of our 50th Anniversary, we are featuring stories of first climbs. Stories from guides and stories from climbers. Today we are excited to share Annette Berg’s story of her late husband, Lance’s first climb of Mt. Rainier. Annette will be climbing Mt. Rainier on a
Five Day Climb later this month in honor of her 25th wedding anniversary and in memory of her husband, Lance.
Find out more about having your first climb featured on our blog!
----
When we were married in 1994,
RMI was 25 years old. This year would have been our 25th wedding anniversary, but unfortunately my husband, Lance, passed away three years ago. So it seems befitting, with RMI’s 50th and my 25th anniversary, to share our story – mostly Lance’s climbing journey, which played a huge part in our life.
It all started with a hike up Green Mountain in the Glacier Peak Wilderness of Washington State in August of 2000. Family members wanted us to hike this mountain. Our shoes were all wrong, the packs were terrible, and we did not have enough water. In the days following this monumental first hike, both of us opted to crawl up the stairs in our house. The soreness was ridiculous and lasted for days. Once we recovered from Green Mountain, we decided we actually enjoyed the pain and suffering. So we bought proper hiking gear and started hiking regularly. It got a lot easier with time.
2010: Lance at Plaza Argentina, BaseCamp on Aconcagua.
One afternoon in 2001, we found ourselves on the Skyline Trail of Mt. Rainier. On that afternoon everything changed. We ran into groups of descending climbers. This was new! We both knew nothing of the climbing world and we both were instantly fascinated by them. Somehow they were like mythical creatures. They looked cool and had the coolest stuff attached to their big backpacks: ice axes, crampons, helmets, ropes. They had seen places that truly not a lot of people get to see. Earthly folks on the Skyline Trail made way to let them pass. It was impressive.
Suddenly hiking took on a whole new dimension. It was still just hiking, but we started to educate ourselves about Mt. Rainier,
Mt. Everest, mountaineering equipment, Camp Muir,
Ed Viesturs, etc. We figured out that RMI existed in Ashford. We attended the first
Rainier Mountain Festival that RMI had (even before there was the Bar and Grill). Ed Viesturs was there and we had our picture taken with him. He was our new idol.
Annette Berg at Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford, WA.
All along we heard stories about the Muir Snowfield. We heard about the dangers of it. In our minds, only those mythical creatures could walk up the Snowfield to get to Camp Muir. One day, we hiked up to Pebble Creek and dared to walk onto the Muir Snowfield. We probably went up about a quarter of a mile and then, for no apparent reason, became freaked out by our own boldness and returned promptly to Pebble Creek. We did however, feel quite accomplished with our quarter mile venture.
Throughout the years, the hiking continued. The mountaineering knowledge increased. We actually dared to go to Camp Muir many times, sometimes a few times a week. We still admired all the mythical creatures that were at Camp Muir ready to climb the Mountain.
Then in 2008, Lance decided he would climb
Mt. Rainier and become one of those mythical creatures. He went all in and signed up for a climb with Ed Viesturs and
Peter Whittaker in August 2008. I guess I was his base camp manager. I helped him with all the packing, repacking, and food selection. We combed through the agenda and checklists for hours to make sure he had everything. It was exhilarating.
2008: Mt. Rainier. From L to R: Peter Whittaker, Melissa Arnot Reid, Lance Berg, and Ed Viesturs.
On a hot and sunny morning, when the Viesturs/Whittaker team went up to Camp Muir, I was at Pebble Creek taking pictures like paparazzi as they passed by. I wished them luck and waived them off. By the time I returned to Paradise, it was noisy and very busy. I had binoculars and from the parking lot I could see the upper end of the Muir Snowfield. I think that was the moment I fell in love with the Mountain. I saw the groups of climbers, like centipedes, silent and graceful, above all the commotion of Paradise. Up there the centipedes seem to be one with nature and worshipping the Mountain. I was convinced that the tourists down below had no clue about what goes on up there. Lance made his first summit. Then mountaineering became a passion.
He loved climbing with RMI. He loved the adventure and the social aspect. He preferred to climb with RMI rather than privately because he knew a lot of the guides. If a jacket, shirt, or hat had the RMI logo on it, he had to buy it. If I wanted to be seen in his company, I had to have items with the RMI logo. I was part of all his training and planning. Heck, I have seen so many orientations at RMI, I could give that presentation. Every summer, RMI BaseCamp in Ashford was our happy place. We would drive the two and a half hours to Mt. Rainier many times for a day of hiking, or to go up to Camp Muir, and then returned to RMI for food and beer. We attended many more Mountain Festivals.
2012: Lance celebrates his 6th summit of Mt. Rainier. This summit was via the Emmons Route.
Lance ended up climbing Mt Rainier seven times with RMI. One of the climbs was the
Emmons route. Every time he came down, I was waiting for him at BaseCamp with a beer ready and sandals so he could free his feet from his climbing boots. One day, there were even a few of the Seattle Seahawks Cheerleaders at BaseCamp, but that’s a different story entirely. Lance’s other RMI climbs included
Mt. Shuksan,
Cotopaxi and Cayambe in Ecuador,
Ixtaccihuatl and Pico de Orizaba in Mexico, and
Aconcagua in Argentina.
2010: Lance on the summit of Aconcagua.
Just to make it clear, Lance’s death in 2016 was not due to mountaineering. Since then, I have continued to return to Mt. Rainier and RMI BaseCamp in the summers to hike. Sometimes I’m alone, sometimes with family or friends. The Mountain will always be one of the most amazing places I have been to and it holds a special place in my heart. This year with our 25th wedding anniversary, my plan is to summit Mt. Rainier in Lance’s memory. I want to take Lance’s picture to the summit. The Mountain has brought him and me so much happiness. I need to stand on top so I can feel closer to the mythical creature my husband has become.
Annette Berg
Today marked our last day pulling full loads, and I think we're all pretty psyched about that! Our five hour climb began after waking up to three inches of snow and white-out conditions. But such conditions are certainly not unusual on the Kahiltna, and so after a hearty breakfast of fried bagels, cream cheese and bacon we tackled Ski Hill.
Pulling huge sleds and shouldering monstrous packs is a given when climbing
Denali, but is no small measure of character and sheer physical tenacity of the climber who accepts that challenge. And it is by meeting that challenge today that this team has really demonstrated a strength of will that will serve them well on this trip.
Tomorrow begins the time in the trip when we start splitting up our loads and ferrying them up the mountain in stages. We're looking forward to this, but I know that these first two days have only made us stronger, and in the end, better prepared for the demands that lie ahead. We'll move camp up to 11,200' camp tomorrow and finally enjoy setting up a camp where we'll be for at least three days. I think the crew is going to welcome finally being able to build a 'proper' mountain home, replete with protective walls around the tents and enclosed commodes. What an energetic and motivated team. I'm a lucky guide.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
On The Map
Winds stayed mercifully calm throughout last night, but just as we got hoping for the morning sunshine (it takes until 11:30 AM for the sun to get around the mountain and into our camp) the storm came in again good and strong for several hours. There was not any question of going ahead with our carry to
high camp. Instead, we rested, which turned out to be quite pleasant when the cloud caps blew off the peaks and the winds quit. Just a lazy day in the sun, trying to drink plenty of water and get organized for going higher. This evening's dinner was relaxed and leisurely, the total opposite of our battle with the elements 24 hours before. Things don't seem totally stable yet, but there isn't much doubt now that we are headed for better days.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
We had an early wake up this morning at Winay Wayna so our Porters could catch an early train home after their impressive work the last 3 days. We let camp clear of the other trekking groups and began our hike to the Sun Gate at the top of the Machu Picchu Sanctuary around 5:45 am. Overcast skies kept the early day cool and as the team descended into Machu Picchu taking in the stellar vantage point. Since the pandemic, the way people are routed through the site has allowed for less crowding and more time in the different points of interest. We got some sun to make the pictures pop and provide context to the intricate terracing that makes this site so unique. Our Peruvian guides Marco & Jaime gave a nice 2 hour tour and history lesson. We are at the hotel in Aquas Calientes for some R&R. Tomorrow we'll return to Machu Picchu for some more wandering around and possibly a hike up Huyna Picchu depending on the weather and how people's leg/feet are feeling. Regardless, it will be a nice morning to wrap up this trek before catching a train back to Cusco.
Thanks for checking in.
RMI Guide Mike King
After a long day of travel yesterday, we were re-energized this morning when we stepped outside the hotel to deep blue skies, brilliant equatorial sun, and temps in the mid 70s all at over 9,000’ here in Quito. We made our way high and low through the city excited to experience the colorful culture, friendly locals, and empanadas! We then ventured to the outskirts of Quito where we visited the site that gave the country its name - the equator! And since there’s never a bad time to snack, we hunted down a produce stand and stuffed ourselves with oritos, delicious sweet baby bananas widely grown here in
Ecuador, and was soon followed by a delicious team dinner at an Ecuadorian restaurant. No, no one’s ordered guinea pig...yet.
What a great way to acclimatize for a 19,000 foot volcano!
RMI Guides Peter Whittaker, Jess Matthews and Team
The
Four Day Summit Climbs for July 16 - 19 reached the summit today. RMI Guides Brent Okita and Gabriel Barral reported clear skies and moderate winds on the summit this morning.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent led the
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz to the summit also. The team will descend back to their high camp for a final night on the mountain.
In the North Cascades, RMI Guide Eric Frank and team reached the summit of
Forbidden Peak yesterday. The team is making their final descending today and returning to the trail head. Near by, RMI Guide Jake Beren and team reached the summit of
Mt. Shuksan via the SE Ridge.
Congratulations to today's summit teams!
Thursday, May 26, 2022 9:53 pm PST
As we suspected, it was blowing snow off the ridges above us this morning. There isn't much snow available to move, so when you see snow plumes you know the wind is ripping. It sounds like the pattern will change tomorrow so we weren't too bothered. We put some energy into organizing for our move to 17,000', took naps, and didn't mind staring up at the snow plumes above with like minded guides and climbers. Pretty standard activities whe you are at 14,000' Camp.
We'll wake up and hope Denali welcomes us higher tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and Team
Hey everyone out there in blog land, this is Eric checking in from base camp in the
Condoriri Group. Most of the team is snuggled into their sleeping bags for an afternoon siesta, because we already put in a full day of work by summiting Pequeño Alpamayo!
After a 3am wake up call, we rolled out of camp in the darkness and made short work of the broad, rolling glacier that occupies the basin above our camp. By 7:30 we were at 17,500ft and the morning alpenglow turned all the peaks around us to a fiery orange. Words can't describe the immensity of the range. In every direction snow capped peaks roll out. The remainder of the route took us up steep snow ridges, over rocky towers and to a final summit that was smaller then a dinner table. The team crowded onto the small precipice and snapped a few photos before walking over the ridge to start the first lower. We are happy to report that everyone in the group made it.
All for now. We head to La Paz tomorrow for a well deserved shower and respite before heading on to our next objective.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
Previous Page
Next Page
Praying for safety. Thanks for the update!! Rob, Dad got your postcard today and was thrilled to hear from you. Praying you all make it to the Summit!
Posted by: Marg Millman on 6/22/2021 at 6:25 pm
Miss you Daryl! Looking forward to the updates! Everyone asking about you everyday
Posted by: Katie on 6/21/2021 at 11:02 am
View All Comments