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The day started out sparkling and blue... A welcome change from the weather of the past week, but by early afternoon it was back to overcast and snow flurries. Word was that those trying to travel between Camp One and Two were encountering waist deep snow and that as much as another meter had fallen on C1 since we left it two days ago. It hasn't been normal in recent years to get so much snow in April, but we choose to look at things optimistically, and we hope that some of the snow sticks up high to make travel a bit safer on the Lhotse Face and on summit day above the South Col.
That is all a bit far off today though. We are still taking it easy and resting up for the next -all important- push up the mountain. (Any push up this mountain is all important to those of us doing the pushing)
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
May 27, 2014 - 10:34 pm PT
Greetings!
The team awoke this morning at Denali's 14K camp to a brisk dose of winter. A few inches of snow fell overnight and winds were blustery and it was apparent another weather / rest day was in order. The team enjoyed a casual breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, and our go-to guilty pleasure, bacon. Regretfully, we said goodbye this morning to our friends Mike Walter and team as they began the journey home after spending the last few days enjoying their company here at 14K camp. We are in great position for a bid for the summit as soon as the weather allows, and we are anxiously awaiting our opportunity. Until then, hope all is well and thanks for following!
RMI Guides Robby, Pete, Josh and Team
On The Map
Patience is a virtue but sometimes there is not enough to go around. Enjoy the current rest area, you’ll soon be on your way. How much bacon?
Enjoy the beauty of where you are at!
Posted by: Frank Haasbeek on 5/28/2014 at 11:21 am
You’re almost there guys! Enjoy the bacon and the views! You are all awesome!
Posted by: Cara n' Jay on 5/28/2014 at 8:38 am
The fog and low cloud came and went periodically at Vinson basecamp today. Most of the afternoon was sunny and pleasant and flyable... if one had an airplane. Ours have gone South. ALE has both Twin Otter ski planes down at the South Pole for the big celebration. Today -Dec. 14, 2011 (it is after midnight) marks one hundred years since Amundson reached the South Pole. A noble accomplishment, by any standard -and worth commemorating, but if given the choice I'd wager that Amundson would have tried to climb Vinson instead. Much more fun to be had out here in the big hills.
My team didn't fret a bit over the lack of aircraft. We were quite happy to sleep in and then sit for a two hour breakfast -bacon and eggs with lots of coffee and cocoa. Then there was time for siestas and snow-carving before a sumptuous dinner (same as last night -we liked it so much we did it again).
We'll likely be here a couple more days, which isn't a bad thing.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
The climb of Mount Everest has begun. Our team came together in these past few days, flying by various routes and trajectories around the world to Kathmandu, lugging all manner of electronics, insulation and enthusiasm. Good meals and nights of uninterrupted slumber have repaired some of the jet-lag grogginess and disorientation. We've met as a team several times now and have gone over preliminary plans and strategies. Tomorrow we fly into Lukla and begin walking. It is no stretch to suggest that all are looking forward to simply walking. That will be a welcome change from months of planning and packing and wondering about the future.
Personally, I can't wait to be walking. Katmandu is always an exciting place for a climber to visit... but most of us wouldn't want that visit to be any longer than is necessary when Everest is the goal. There is too much chance for getting sick either from taking in smoggy air or dodgy food. There is still charm to this huge city, but it isn't wise to go hunting extensively for that charm just now. Katmandu is struggling these days; the electricity is only on a third of the time and so there is a nearly constant background noise of hotel diesel generators throbbing away. People are nervously recounting a winter devoid of moisture and the resultant severe water shortages they are now dealing with. As usual there is uncertainty over Nepali central government effectiveness and concern for how worldwide financial troubles will impact the country.
Walking in the countryside will be perfect. We won't think just yet of the dangers of the Khumbu Icefall or the winds that might scour the Lhotse Face. We'll put off worrying over Hillary Step traffic jams and jet-stream meanderings. Instead we'll set off walking through lush forests and fertile farmland through the villages our Sherpa teams live in. We'll get talking some and walking more and we'll get away from cell phones and email. We'll try not to trip or step in goo... we'll take pictures of distant mountainsides and close-up flowers and our lives will get simpler than they have been for some time. I'll speak with Erica and Ed Dohring; my clients, and will explain how this ten-day trek can be the perfect way to prepare for a big climb. I'll try to tell them what I can of the Sherpa culture and the mountain history. Perhaps I'll get to introduce them to a few famous climbers along the trail. I'll mug for the cameras, as our team tries to capture our First Ascent gear being rolled out on its maiden voyage in the great mountain range.
I'll try to stay healthy, warm and dry... simple.
Posted by: Alex Halliday, Luke Wilhelm, Leif Bergstrom, Josh Hankin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Sunday, August 8th, 2021 - 4:57 pm PT
After making an essential sandwich stop in Enumclaw this morning we had a lovely hike into the base of the Inter Glacier. Climbing the hard blue glacial ice on the inter glacier put our new found cramponing skills to good use. We are sitting in the fog now hoping it will clear so that we have good view with dinner.
Posted by: Billy Nugent, Leon Davis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
First off, a big hello to everyone who's following along!
The team convened today on the beautiful city of Mendoza a bit tired from a long stretch of travel but no worse for the wear. Some of us chose to enjoy a late lunch while others chilled poolside for the remainder of the afternoon. The trip did not really begin in earnest until the official team meeting at 6 pm this evening. After the meeting we had a quick gear check and then headed out on the town for a classic Argentine dinner. By classic of course I mean beef and malbec wine. The crew is positive and enthusiastic about the adventure on Aconcagua that lies ahead! Tomorrow will be a busy day obtaining our permits and tying up loose ends on our way out of town and up to Penitentes where we will stage for an evening before hitting the trail...
That is all for now,
RMI Guides Billy Nugent & Leon Davis
A long and easy day at high camp, preparing for the summit. There wasn't a breath of wind, which we are hoping will be the situation tomorrow as well. Still plenty of cloud about, although we seem to be near the top of it all. I spoke on the radio with Vinson basecamp and they seem to be down in the soup. Clouds shouldn't present any great problem for us though, as long as the predictions hold true and the calm continues. The forecast calls for -38 C tomorrow on top. It was far more comfortable than that in our tents today though. We napped, we drank water, we napped, we ate food, and we napped. Tomorrow we climb.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
thinking of with every step, Vlado. enjoy the vistas at the top!
Posted by: Maria on 12/11/2011 at 10:13 am
Good luck on making it up to the summit tomorrow!
Posted by: TRACY OWENS on 12/10/2011 at 10:36 pm
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, JT Schmitt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Huascaran
Elevation: 20,846'
Greetings from Chopicalqui High camp! What a day... This mountain is no joke: five 60-degree pitches at 20'000ft, no visibility for the upper half of the mountain on ascent, and no visibility on the entire descent! But we did it! We reached the summit of Chopicalqui! The team needed to put up a fight and they did. Everyone stood on top shortly after 8:00 AM on a seven hour uphill strenuous push. We rolled into our sleeping bags after an early dinner that our porters had ready upon arrival. Tomorrow we're looking forward to town and well earned rest.
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
So proud of you guys! Great job!
Posted by: Terry Wisler on 7/15/2019 at 2:07 pm
Yay! Congrats Kim and team!!!
Posted by: Ally on 7/15/2019 at 12:40 pm
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Categories: Guide News Everest
The Shishapangma team left a voice mail message with the RMI office yesterday saying everything was going well. It was a little hard to decipher which is understandable coming from half way around the world via satellite. Here is what we were able to understand:
“Hey guys it is the Shishapangma crew. All doing well here at Basecamp after carries from/to Camp 1. Heading up to Camp 1 again in a few days. Wanted to let you know we are well. We will be heading up again soon.”
The Four Day and Five Day Summit Climbs reached Ingraham Flats this morning on their summit attempt. The weather has been unsettled, which resulted in unfavorable route conditions.
Both teams are safely off the mountain enjoying their program wrap up with their guides.
For Lindsay Mann: Wow! congrats to you and all your team members. Bestwishes to reach the summit and return. Love Gt and GN
Posted by: nick and Tllie Medvid on 5/26/2012 at 11:46 pm
Dave and Seth
Greetings from Alaska. Enjoying the blogs. Reminds me of my E days 20 years ago to the day. Good luck and be safe.
Mark
Posted by: mark selland on 4/25/2013 at 10:05 pm
Best wishes on a safe climb. You guys are awesome, BRAVE-to say the least. Blessings for a safe summit.
ABQ Uptown #985 NM/AZ/CO
Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 4/25/2013 at 1:30 pm
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