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Dhaulagiri: Team Checks in Before Summit Push

The Dhaulagiri team called the RMI Office this morning to check-in. Here is a summary of our conversation: First and foremost, everyone is healthy and in good spirits. The weather forecast is calling for more of the same—gorgeous, clear mornings followed by afternoon snowstorms. They are refusing to let the plethora of new snow dampen their spirits. A new team has arrived at base camp and everyone is enjoying the new company. The team is getting ready to head to bed for the night. In the morning they will begin heading uphill to get into position for their summit attempt. The team sends their love to everyone following along! They will keep us posted on their upward progress.
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Good luck to the team and stay safe!

Posted by: Barbara Schwarz on 5/1/2014 at 11:27 am

May The Force be with you.  Your strength, will, and wisdom make an awesome contender for Mother Nature.  Power on.

Posted by: nsb on 4/30/2014 at 10:29 am


Aconcagua Expedition: Resting at Camp 1

Our winds have been quite manageable today with occasional gusts, but overall very pleasant. We are resting here at Camp 1, getting used to the altitude before carrying up to Camp 2, the Guanacos Camp, to make a cache for our future move. The team took a short walk to stretch the legs and now are enjoying a siesta before dinner. Buenas Tardes, RMI Guide Jake Beren
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Craig and Eric
Just found the blog today—-in time to wish you a Merry Xmas Sunny skies here in Palo Alto Will have a full house tomorrow with Jake Julia Anastasia Laurie Ryan and Katie
(no snow in Alta so CA is a nice alternative) We will be at Disneyland New Years Eve en route to the Fiesta Bowl on the 1-2nd Your expedition looks awesome and hope the weather and acclimatization allow you to summit! Tons of love and best wishes for an awesome remainder of your time on the mountain.

Posted by: Libby Heimark on 12/24/2011 at 9:00 am

Richard Fitz: opps! last comment was you!

Posted by: Linda Robertson on 12/24/2011 at 8:57 am


Ruth Glacier Seminar: Delaney & Team Pack Gear in Talkeetna, Get Ready to Fly

Thursday, May 3, 2023 - 1:49 AM PT

Howdy folks!

We awoke this morning to big fat snowflakes slowly meandering down from gray skies. To say the least, we were not optimistic for our chances to fly into the Ruth Glacier. That was not an issue for us though because we had plenty to do today. We did a full gear check, organized group supplies, wandered around town, and got weighed in for our (eventual) flight. We were completely ready to roll by noon. Sadly the snow fall increased in intensity as the day went on. After lunch we went dived into refreshing and learning all the various knots that are important for climbing and mountaineering. This training session took us right up till dinner where we enjoyed pizza at Mountain High Pizza Pie. The team then decided to meander over to the one and only Fairview Bar for Open Mic Night. It was a splendid evening that did not disappoint (see photo). Spirit remain high for our chances to fly out tomorrow!

Wish us luck?

RMI Guides Jack, Mike and the Team

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Hi everyone! Another night with the spirits. Darn—lol. It was only 2 degrees warmer here in Portland OR today. Electric blanket weather

Posted by: Susan on 5/4/2023 at 10:10 pm

the people want to see this attached photo!!!

hope the weather lets up soon!

Posted by: Corey on 5/4/2023 at 7:50 am


Aconcagua: Beren & Team Arrive Base camp

Greetings from Basecamp! Our team battled a bit of wind getting here, but here we are safe and sound. Our morning began with the more sensible members of the team riding mules across the Vacas River, while the rest of us "tough" (ie ridiculous) members waded across the icy stream. Once our icy feet had boots on, we hiked up the Relinchos Valley underneath a towering view of Aconcagua. It definitely looked windy up there, with spindrift ripping off the peak. Basecamp is somewhat better and after a good session of camp building in the elements, the team is ready for some well earned R&R. Tomorrow we rest and prepare ourselves for that break in the weather. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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CV & TP, merry christmas and good luck (don’t look down)... our thoughts are with you the whole lavado family…

Posted by: Lavado's on 12/26/2012 at 7:26 am

Kim and Scata families wish Dawn and the entire team an exciting climb. Keep warm and happy heart! —Mom—

Posted by: Hye Kim on 12/25/2012 at 5:00 pm


Mt. Rainier: July 30th Team Summits!

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Mike King and Avery Parrinello reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 4:30 am today. Mike reported 40 mph winds, clear skies, and a good climbing route. The team is in route to Camp Muir where they will take a well-deserved rest break, pack up and descend to Paradise. Then its back to Rainier Basecamp in Ashford, WA for burgers, cold drinks, and a little team celebration. 

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Good job everybody! Amazing team of guides across both groups

Posted by: Wes on 7/30/2022 at 5:56 pm


Denali Expedition: Parrinello and Team At Base Camp Waiting to Fly

Monday, June 20, 2022 - 8:39 a.m. PDT

So we did it, well almost. We’re right back where we began our journey but this time we are stuck here. I’m of course talking about Kahiltna International Airport. How did this happen? Let’s start at the beginning of our day.

BEEP BEEP BEEP. The 1:00 a.mm alarm goes off, the guides rub the sleep / snow out of their eyes. Oh wait, did you say snow? Yes, yes I did because the guides decided to roll the dice and open bivy instead of set up a tent for our “last” night out. Anyways not a big deal, snow brushes off and sleeping bags dry eventually.

The rest of the team quickly rallied and broke down camp and we headed out on the mushy trail. Slightly less mushy though thanks to a slight refreeze from the night. Thank goodness for that because we crossed a lot of snow bridges over crevasses. The walking was easy and the team was traveling well, until Heartbreak Hill, the final slope up to the airstrip. It’s just steep enough to be terrible and just shallow enough grade to last for what feels like forever.

Finally, finally we made it to the airstrip. Our time to get back to civilization was here! Except not, because we didn’t fly out. Now here’s how we got stuck. Clouds. Clouds everywhere. First clouds at the airstrip prevented them from flying, then clouds in Talkeetna, then more clouds at the airstrip, then clouds both places.

So as I write this we’ve missed our window for flying out today and await patiently for a break in the weather tomorrow. Let’s hope the next dispatch is a picture of us clinking glasses and celebrating in Talkeetna!

To be continued….

RMI Guides Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Liam Weed and the team

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” Everyone wants to reach the top of the mountain. But all the success and growth occurs while you’re climbing it.”
-Andy Rooney

Posted by: Ellis Richman on 6/20/2022 at 7:15 pm

I know you all can do it. You’ve come this far and the glasses will clink!
Weather can be a problem whether cold or hot - it was close to 98 degrees today in
Wayzata, MN - high humidity too so not a day to be outside!
Safe travels for the rest of the trip - look forward to a photo of the team!
You all have accomplished what you set out to do and should be proud of that!
Thank you for sharing your adventure with us.
M.

Posted by: mary pagnucco on 6/20/2022 at 7:02 pm


Ecuador Seminar: Knoff, Smith & Team Arrive Quito, Explore City

Welcome to day one of the February, Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador.    From this day forward, you as the blog follower will be stuck to the edge of your seat for the next two weeks, waiting with more anticipation than those waiting for the next episode of Yellowstone.  You will hear harrowing tales of long bus rides, lots of food and drink and perhaps some occasional mountain climbing.  

Today however, the excitement was kept to a minimum with a brief orientation in the hotel lobby with all team members present, followed by a four hour city tour covering the equator to the north then back to the old town of Quito in the south. 

I would say our most adventurous moments came during our visit to the Mitad Del Mumdo, or center of the world, where eggs mysteriously balance on nails if one posses the proper mojo and strange gravitational forces affect raised arms if hailing the sun god.  No one seamed possessed by evil spirits so my first impression is every one should climb well.

Beyond that the city blessed us with good weather, good views and nice people.   After the tour our weary travelers retired for a quick nap before our first of many group dinners. 

Tomorrow we will venture into the mountains for the first time stretching our legs and lungs while quickly breaking the 15,000 foot ceiling on the active volcano, Pichincha Rucu, 5 miles from our hotel.  Stay tuned for that report. 

Until then, watch some Yellowstone.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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Following your posts and wishing all a great climbing trip.

Posted by: Jane on 2/12/2022 at 5:26 pm

Stalking you online with happy memories of 2016 in Ecuador with Adam and team.

Posted by: Lindsay Newell on 2/10/2022 at 4:44 pm


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Team led by McDowell Reaches Summit

The Five Day Climb July 13 - 17 opted to make their summit attempt today. RMI Guide Josh McDowell led their team to the summit of Mt. Rainier on a "fantastic day". Josh reported a light breeze, sunny and warm temps this morning. The team will return to Camp Muir for their final night on the mountain. Tomorrow they will descend to Paradise and conclude their trip with a celebration ceremony. Congratulations to the Five Day Climb team!
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Aconcagua: Liken & Team Summit!

Update 3:44 pm ART time, 10:44 am Pacific time The team woke up this morning at 4:30 am to clear skies and no wind, so it was time to head to the upper mountain. The weather remained on our side all the way up and down, giving us excellent views from the top. Also fresh snow from the night before meant we were breaking trail through shin-deep powder up high. As soon as we got back to camp, a thunder storm had us hiding in the tent. We will stay here at high camp one more night before we descend back to Base Camp. RMI Guide Ben Liken RMI Guide Ben Liken called with great news this morning. His team reached the Aconcagua summit this morning at 11:45 a.m. local time! They climbed strong and were one of the first teams on top. They really lucked out as the winds were starting to increase. The plan is to head down to Base Camp shortly. Congratulations!

On The Map

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Congratulations to Ben Liken, Pepper Dee and Team! Major accomplishment!

Posted by: David Clemmons on 2/14/2017 at 7:30 am


Mt. Rainier: Grom, Wedel and Team Summit!

RMI Guides Casey Grom and Jess Wedel called from the crater rim this morning after their successful climb of Mt. Rainier. The teams enjoyed some light winds and a bit of precipitation as they bagan their descent back to Camp Muir.

The teams will be back in Ashford this afternoon to celebrate their accomplishments! Nice work team!

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