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Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Focus on Rest, Recovery & Reading

Sunday, May 21, 2023 - 9:47 pm PDT


Today was a big day! Our first official rest day of the trip. After a few long hard pushes, we decided to sleep in and take the entire day to recover, and prep for the big carry tomorrow. We woke with the sun, and had a few rounds of breakfast burritos. After a leisurely breakfast, the remainder of the day was spent resting, recovering, reading and napping. Just before dinner we reviewed a bit of cramponing and ice axe techniques to prepare for the terrain above 11k Camp, and then rolled into an early dinner. Tomorrow we'll make our way towards 14k Camp to cache some food, and gear before returning to 11k Camp. 

RMI Guide Nikki Champion and Team
 

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wow!  Amazing view!
Glad you got some rest time Kevin and team

Posted by: Karie Seubert on 5/23/2023 at 6:37 am

Climb Strong Kevin and team and rest strong too!!! Spectacular!!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 5/23/2023 at 3:27 am


Everest Base Camp Trek: Team Acclimates in Namche Bazaar

Hello again from Nepal.

All is well here in Namche and the team is doing great. Today is scheduled as a rest/acclimatization day to help our bodies adjust to the change in altitude. Normally I like to get the team out for a little exploring and sightseeing, but the weather had other plans for us. So instead, we had a leisurely morning here around the tea house and once the clouds broke, we ventured out to wonder this beautiful and friendly village. Some headed for coffee shops while other went off in search for unknown treasures.

We reconvened around noon to enjoy some amazing food at the local fresh food spot called “Eat Smart “and did just that!


We did manage a short hike to see the town from one of the adjacent hillsides and then did a little “puffy pants” shopping to help keep us nice and toasty higher up the valley.

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Puffy Pants Crew

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Casey!  Will be in KTM tomorrow for the EBC/Lobuche trek—hoping our paths may cross at some point!

Posted by: Deborah Rutter on 3/19/2023 at 3:47 pm


Mongolia: Frank & Team Climb Naramdal Peak

Last night's unanticipated storm fizzled out a bit after midnight, but the high winds stayed around and buffeted our camp through the night. We woke up at 2:30 am to see if there was any chance of climbing, but heavy gusts made it clear that wasn't an option. Instead we stayed in bed until almost 8:00 am this morning, only climbing out to hear water for coffee. After a quick breakfast we decided to go on a walk and try for another peak. By 12:30 pm today we were standing on top of Naramdal Peak at 13,405'. The coolest part of Naramdal is that it is the convergence of Mongolia, China and Russia, so depending how you stand you can be in two or all three countries at once. We are back in camp now, relaxing and resting. If the weather is good in the morning, we will try to climb Khuiten, then descend to Basecamp. If the weather is not good we will probably get packed up and go down earlier in the morning to avoid the worst of the bad weather that is forecasted for Saturday evening and Sunday. RMI Guide Eric Frank
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Machu Picchu: Team Spends First Day on Inca Trail!

Buenas noches señors y señoritas! 

We awoke early to begin our first day on the official Inca trail! We had 4,000 feet to climb and the majority of it was on 600+ year old Inca stone steps.

The day started out along a babbling stream wandering up through a lush and wild jungle. We were even lucky enough to spot a sapphire hummingbird along our trek. Halfway through our grueling climb, we popped out above the tree line to enjoy a tasty lunch and beautiful views of the valley below. The final climb uphill was done slowly, since the top of Warmiwañusca pass was at 13,779 feet! Here, we enjoyed a well-deserved break before beginning our 2,000’ descent to camp at Pacaymayo. Thankfully, the views were spectacular and there were many colorful wildflowers along the trail to help distract us from the large and steep steps. We slowly and safely made our way down to camp where we enjoyed popcorn, chips, and guacamole for our afternoon snack! The guides claim dinner was “puma meat” but no matter what it was, it was delicious!

We’re headed to bed early tonight because we have another big day full of Inca stone steps ahead of us tomorrow!

Mike, Jack and the team

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Guide Shack: Shooting In Cold Environments

(C) Jason Thompson Photography I spent over a decade working as a mountain guide and many days I found myself working in very cold environments, often for weeks at a time. I carried my camera on all of these trips. One of the coldest places I worked was on Denali in Alaska while working for RMI. During those expeditions, climbers often had questions about using cameras in these cold environments. Here are a few tips that I shared with them: 1. Keep multiple batteries available. Keep them close to your body. Sleep with them. If you're not going to be using your camera for long periods of time take the battery out so that it stays warm and it's ready to go. (C) Jason Thompson Photography (C) Jason Thompson Photography 2. Remember that if you bring your cold camera into a warm room that condensation will rapidly fog the glass in your lens. I have found that if I bring my camera into my tent its usually not enough of a temperature gradient to cause condensation. 3. The solar kits these days are very affordable, compact, light and you would be surprised at how much charge they will provide even if it's snowing. Check out the Goal Zero kits, they will have whatever you could possibly need. (C) Jason Thompson Photography 4. Camera technology changes rapidly. One major advantage of the new technology is the size of the cameras available these days offer very high performance while being slightly bigger than your iPhone. A couple of cameras that I have had success with for a pretty good dollar value are the Sony RX-100 and the Canon s100. They are sleek cameras that will fit in your pocket comfortably. Of course one thing to consider in the colder environments is that using the LCD screen will use more battery juice. Having a viewfinder like the Nikon Coolpix 7800 will provide longer battery life. (C) Jason Thompson Photography (C) Jason Thompson Photography 5. Keep your camera handy. The more accessible your camera is, the more images you will capture. I typically will carry my camera clipped to my backpack shoulder strap about chest height and tether it to a small locking carabiner. That way even if I drop it I will not lose it. 6. Safety first. Mountaineering is a team sport. You're tied in with other people. Just because you see a picture that you have to take right then don't forget that it's your responsibility to make sure its safe to capture that picture. Communicate with your teammates. (C) Jason Thompson Photography (C) Jason Thompson Photography (C) Jason Thompson Photography 7. Shoot details. Shoot unique angles. Shoot to tell the story. Simply, just dropping to a knee for a different angle will improve your image. 8. IPhones make amazing images. I just recently picked up this iPhone case and modified it by drilling 2 small holes in the side of the case and installed a short tether. 9. My light and fast alpine style camera kit includes the Sony DSC-RX100, Joby Gorilla pod (be gentle with these in really cold environments as they can be fragile), a Hahnel Giga T Pro II Wireless Remote, Sandisk 32GB SD card x2, 1 ziplock bag, 1 dust cloth for the lens and the Lowpro Portland 30 case. This comes in at about just over 3lbs. (C) Jason Thompson Photography (C) Jason Thompson Photography (C) Jason Thompson Photography (C) Jason Thompson Photography _________ Jason Thompson is a Senior Guide at RMI Expeditions and a renowned photographer. He has traveled the world to places such as Alaska, Patagonia, and the Caucasus Mountains leading climbs and documenting mountain adventures through his camera lens. See his work on www.jthompsonphotography.com. Jason's recent videos include the 2013 Reel // Artist Statement and Wrangelled, which was nominated for a Coldsmoke Award. Follow Jason on Instagram at @_jt_photo.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thanks for the great tips and for the awesome pics.  It’s one thing having all the gear and technology but having the eye for that unique angle or opportunity is another thing.  You have both.  Have enjoyed looking at your photos over the years.  Thanks for sharing.

Posted by: Josephine Johnson on 3/28/2014 at 12:34 pm

Hi Brenda looks like the sun is so wonderful for your journey .  Sea Jay and I are doing fine did cardiac hill today we miss & love you and are so happy you got the best weather!  Stay safe, love you, Rich. Xoxoxo

Posted by: Richie Larscheid on 2/9/2014 at 10:32 am


Mt. McKinley: Jake Beren and Team Arrive in Talkeetna

Greetings from Talkeetna AK! Our team made it in last night/early this morning with all gear accounted for and we enjoyed a good night's rest in Talkeetna. This morning it was business as usual, big breakfasts at the Roadhouse, a NPS orientation and a lot of sorting gear in the K2 hangar. Now we are checking tents, stoves and group gear before a big feast tonight. With any luck we will fly out tomorrow morning. Til then, RMI Guide Jake Beren
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Ciao Eric,  Thinking of you and praying for good weather and a safe trip. We are very proud of you and all the hard work it took to get you where you are today. Can’t wait to see you to share stories. Amore from Mom and Dad

Posted by: Tom and Kathy Schafer on 6/16/2012 at 11:15 pm

Wow-  thats impressive progress.  Also - potluck?  I thought this was supposed to be hard!  You should be relaying stories of extreme hardship and grit!
You guys are awesome. 
All the best.

K - Uma came back Malaysia and we had a hurricane at home…till the home was in order and to her spec. :-)

Posted by: AK on 6/12/2012 at 7:03 pm


Mt. McKinley: Hailes & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

Good evening friends and family, We are all comfortably moved into our new camp at about 11,000 feet. It took us 2.5 hours to move here from 9,500 feet and about 2 hours to level tent platforms, dig our cook area, and retrieve the cache we established yesterday. Everyone worked hard to refine this camp because we are planning on being here for the next three nights. We will carry gear higher on the mountain, rest, and continue to acclimate. We will check in again soon. RMI Guide Walter Hailes

On The Map

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Keeping you all in our thoughts and prayers. Good luck and enjoy the journey. Love to Andy.
Dad and Nita

Posted by: Nita Pennardt on 5/31/2011 at 7:31 am

Good luck and be safe!  Love to Andy!
Mom

Posted by: Ingrid Pennardt on 5/31/2011 at 6:37 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Summit on Windy Day

The Four Day Climb August 29 - 1 September reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 7 AM today. RMI Guides Brent Okita and Ben Ammon led the groups today. Brent reported windy conditions as they were approaching the crater rim. After enjoying the views the teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise. They will conclude their adventure at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon and hopefully enjoy the festivities of Rainier Mountain Fest. Congratulations to today's climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

You are all rockstars!

Posted by: Lois on 9/1/2019 at 11:25 am

Congratulations Jonathan!!!! I am so proud of you!!! <3

Posted by: Joanne on 9/1/2019 at 9:09 am


Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Ready to Launch

Our departure this morning was earlier than anyone wanted, but gave us plenty of time at the Moscow International Airport to sort out our numerous duffels, get everything checked, and have a quick breakfast and coffee before we boarded. The flight to Kislovodsk was uneventful (as they all should be), and soon we were blazing down the road in a minibus towards our hotel. While the team did some food shopping and relaxed, the guides made a trip to our outfitters to grab some stored gear. We got the special treatment, returning in a Russian jeep! We've had dinner, checked through our gear, and are ready for bed and a departure for the mountain tomorrow morning. Best, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal, and team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck and we look forward to following the climb.  One question on the Russian truck, it appears to be held together by tape?

Posted by: wendy kolosar on 8/6/2019 at 9:27 am

Godspeed Pete and friends.
PS: Aconcagua + Rainier book in composition..
Fun reliving dat. To find a publisher now,,,,

Posted by: Waltero Glover on 8/6/2019 at 8:01 am


Mt. Rainier: ALA Climb for Clean Air Update

The American Lung Association's Climb For Clean Air Team made a summit attempt of Mt. Rainier early today before low visibility and poor weather forced the team to turn. This team was led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker and JT Schmitt. Each team member commits a year to training and raising funds to support the American Lung Association’s mission of saving lives by improving lung health and preventing lung disease. The team is currently at Camp Muir and will be heading back to Rainier Basecamp for an afternoon celebration. Congratulations to Today's Team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome job CFCA Mt. Rainier Climb Group #1! Thanks for letting Dylan and I join in on your descent from Pebble Creek! Y’all are so inspiring dealing with that insane weather!

Posted by: Leesha on 6/27/2019 at 7:31 pm

Well done CFCA Team! Weather is always a crap shoot! Better to be safe to climb another day! Glad your safe!

Posted by: Julie on 6/27/2019 at 6:23 pm

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