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Climber’s Perspective: What I Learned On My Recent Aconcagua Expedition

March 10, 2015

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Categories: Aconcagua

Having recently returned from an Aconcagua expedition, and having unpacked all my duffels, it was time to reflect on what I learned from the experience. I learned that I will never be called out for breathing like Darth Vader or for taking too many rest steps, resting spots are always further away than they initially appear (or are promised) and it is statistically impossible to pack too many gummies. In fact, learning the exact food preferences of your guides, and anticipating their needs before they become hypoglycemic (or just cranky) is key to any successful Aconcagua expedition. For instance, I am now equipped with the powerful knowledge that Steve is partial to sour worms, irrespective of the time of day or the altitude, and Mike has an aversion to any form of fruit and won’t touch chocolate on summit day. And you can never EVER pack too many tubes of Pringles. I will forever carry this insight with me on future climbs. So what else did I learn? I admit that initially I had reservations about my ability to handle the rigors of an Aconcagua expedition, my “level” being best described as “enthusiastic”. I wondered whether I had sufficient experience to effectively prepare for an extended trip. I had deep concerns about my long-time nemesis, altitude, and how I would acclimatize “on schedule”. And I wondered if being a female climber (and therefore packing less than 200 pounds of pure muscle – a “lightweight”) would prove to be a limiting factor for a climb of this nature. As it turns out, picking rocks up and putting rocks down is not the most important expedition skill after all. In fact, as a female climber you probably innately possess many of the skills you will need. It is precisely because your mindset is not that of muscling your way up the hill, that as a lightweight, you will appreciate that technique matters. You will quickly grasp that rest-stepping is a technique and not a pace. It is because you will be more open to learning how to do things differently that you will pay closer attention to what your guides are doing and follow their lead. It is true that stuffing your too large a sleeping bag into your too small a compression sack will always remain a fun, high altitude workout, however being inherently more detailed oriented, you are more likely to remember to weigh down the tent bag and keep a firm grasp on the tent while setting it up in hurricane-force winds so it doesn’t blow away into Chile, and to remember to double check that the tent fly is fully zipped so it doesn’t rip in the wind. Perhaps it is because you are more likely to be aware of your own limits that you will appreciate the value of thorough preparation, of perseverance and of thinking several steps ahead. You will naturally be more disciplined, and always purify your water, pack that extra layer and know where every item in your backpack is located. It is because you are more cautious by nature that you will take care of all the details (whether it is cold fingers or simply reapplying sunscreen). All these details will add up over the course of an expedition. Ultimately it is what is in your head that counts the most – your own sound judgment, your own inherent sense of self preservation, that only becomes more deeply ingrained with each climb, that will prove your most valuable expedition skill. Aconcagua is set in a strikingly harsh environment. You will spend many hours scrambling over a glacier in a desert, as the mountain slowly reveals itself the higher you climb. You cannot take a bus to see it – there are no short cuts. You will only be privileged to see it if you climb it. It is hard. And it is worth it. It will be difficult to recall the exact moment when, reservations aside, it occurred to you that the expedition had been a success, and not only did you cope, but in fact you thrived. Perhaps it was the moment you mastered skiing down scree, or when you welcomed snow as now there was an easily accessible water source and an opportunity to strap on crampons, that you realized you had gone further than you ever thought you could. Maybe it was when you were completely at ease being tent-bound for 4 days at 18,000ft, wondering not if but when your tent would be shredded by the wind, or were content to spend an evening watching snow slide down the tent fly, mere inches from your face. Surely it was the moment you realized you were actually looking forward to ramen night (again!). No, it must have been when you thought nothing of foregoing the tent altogether, and were perfectly satisfied simply to lay down your bag among the rocks and the mule droppings, with a rock for a pillow and just count shooting stars and watch the moon rise beneath an Andean sky. Perhaps it was at that moment that Aconcagua had worked its magic, and you had fully assimilated into expedition life. It is at that juncture that you will realize, that despite being a lightweight, YOU DID IT!!!!! And you can start to dream of your next climb. Rebecca R. - Aconcagua, February 2015

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

WOW!!! Every time I read your climb reports I feel like I’ve been there with you from your preparation to your climb to sitting in your tent with you. Well done on a fantastic insight on your experience, please keep on climbing and telling us land lubbers all about it.

Posted by: Sharon on 3/11/2015 at 3:36 am

CONGRATULATIONS!! Reads like a very meaningful experience. Excellent writing skills. Be proud of yourself for sure.

Posted by: Fran on 3/10/2015 at 5:59 pm

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Grom and Team fly to Lukla, Start the Trek

March 16, 2023

Posted by: Casey Grom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Hello from the Khumbu Valley!

We started our day here pretty early, meeting in the hotel lobby at 5:30am. After checking out of the hotel we had a short ride to the domestic airport were we weighed all of our duffels and backpacks before getting tickets and slipping through a very laid back security check. Normally there’s a little bit of waiting before heading out, but today things moved along pretty quickly.

We opted for helicopter flights to the Lukla airport and avoided the small planes that require land on an uphill runway. After we touched down, we connected with our local Sherpa guides hired a few porters that will be carrying our duffles throughout the trek. We made a brief stop at a local tea house to have breakfast and get situated before hitting the trail.

We hiked for about four hours today with few stops to rest and to take in the beautiful scenery. We arrived at our camp for the night in a village called Phakding just in time for a well earned lunch. The team got settled, had naps, or explored a little before walking a short way to one of the many Monastery’s here in the Valley. Luckily for us the Monks were having a prayer session and allowed us to sit in while they chanted and blew their horns. It was very surreal and a wonderful way to start this adventure.

All is well!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Step by step, up, up and away! Good luck all!

Posted by: John Buckett on 3/17/2023 at 5:50 am

We’re living vicariously through you. So fun to see the pix, and read the stories!
Barry and Nancy Otterholt

Posted by: Barry Otterholt on 3/16/2023 at 7:31 pm

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Denali Expedition: Parrinello & Team Return to Talkeetna, Complete Trip

June 21, 2022

Posted by: Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Liam Weed

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

Monday, June 20, 2022 - 7:37 pm PT

Final Dispatch! Final Jeopardy!

The sound of Lisa the Basecamp Manager waking us up by saying “Planes are coming!”

What is the greatest sound in the world?

Correct!

The team has never packed up camp so quickly. Too quickly it ended up because we played hurry up and wait for about three hours before our ticket to town arrived. It was worth the wait for hot showers, running water and flushing toilets.

So to end our adventure together dear reader, here is a group photo of the team.

Thanks for following along!

RMI Guide Jak Delaney

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Congrats to everyone, (especially my niece, Rebecca) for completing a lifetime achievement. Everyone looks very happy to have completed your goal. Look forward to seeing pictures.

Posted by: Lorraine Sewick on 6/21/2022 at 11:40 am

Many congrats team - you all look refreshed and happy! Thank you guides for your wonderful daily updates - we have loved them! Amazing trip you all and welcome home! And Michael cannot wait to see you honey!!!

Kim aka Mom

Posted by: Kim on 6/21/2022 at 9:34 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Smooth Move to 11,000’ Camp

June 4, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Wednesday, June 4, 2014 4:53 PDT The morning came with no wind and optimal cool temps for our travels. After an oatmeal breakfast, the team packed for our quickest departure from camp yet. Our crew is strong and made great time during our climb, stopping at our cache to retrieve a handful of items from the surface, adding just a microscopic load for the final push into our new home for the next few days. We plan to continue to fortify our camp by adding wind walls to our million dollar Posh house! The Posh house will serve as our kitchen,living, and dining room, bringing some comfort from the chill of the evening and protection from the blasting solar energy of the sun. Currently, we are hiding from the sun's torture and looking forward to a big dinner of tortellini with bacon and sun dried tomatoes. Tonight we will get a long night's rest, and a leisurely breakfast tomorrow will lead us into a short back carry to retrieve the rest of our equipment! We're keeping our fingers crossed for RMI Guide Brent Okita and his team above us - as of last night's radio check-in, they were planning to go for the top today. If the weather up high is anything like it is at our new camp, they stand a good shot. But for us, the name of the game is rest, recover, and prepare for the work ahead. Cheers for now, RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Bryan Hendrick, and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

We are following your progress. Good Weather & Good Luck! Going to Raleigh to see & hear Oz.

Posted by: Fred & Donna on 6/5/2014 at 5:46 pm

Hi Paul! We didn’t want you to be the only “camper” (haha) not getting “mail” from home this trip. So enjoy your adventure and safe travels! Love Ronda, Alex, Meeka and Max (the toad catcher!!!)

Posted by: Ronda Kinneberg on 6/5/2014 at 4:07 pm

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Ecuador Seminar: Parrinello & Team Enjoy Relaxing Day, Now Head for Antisana

February 15, 2023

Posted by: Avery Parrinello, Hannah Smith

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 15,000'

Good morning all,

After enjoying a relaxing day at Casa Ilayaku the team is ready to get back to business and start walking uphill. A two hour drive brought us to the basecamp for Antisana. A quick duffle shuffle and gear sort gets us psyched and ready for our early departure, hopefully to the top this time. It's early to bed to rest the eyes and body. Fingers crossed the weather cooperates this time.

Happy belated Valentines Day to all our loved ones,

RMI Guides Avery, Hannah, and Team

Denali Expedition: Parrinello and Team Cache Gear at 9,500’

June 5, 2022

Posted by: Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Liam Weed

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,500'

Greetings from the bottom of Ski Hill. We’ve been keeping our trend of staying on east coast time (3am wake up Alaska time) in order to keep up with the stock market and take advantage of the cooler temps and firm snow. This morning we packed up all our excess supplies and gear and headed uphill to cache them. Conditions were ideal again as we were able to climb without the aid of crampons or snow shoes. Apparently, granola breakfast was the breakfast of champions because the team crushed it! They marched uphill without tiring and kept cheerful smiles while doing it. The sunrise was incredible and even saw what could be described as a non-traditional rainbow in the distant rains near Talkeetna! We soon climbed past the traditional cache spot around 9,500 and stopped just below the last hill to 11 camp. The only reason we didn’t go all the way was to save the experience of seeing what will be our new home for tomorrow.

The afternoon was spent back at ski hill, napping, relaxing, snacking and trading stories. Some of which seemed too good to be true.

The weather is beautiful and so is the team.

Yours Truly,

RMI Guides Avery, Jack, Liam and the Team

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Hey Team!!! What a day! How great to be able to be a tiny part of this experience with you - thank you for sharing! Keep up the great work and positive attitudes! We are all behind you. Go Michael Go! Am with you in spirit bud- Love you!! Hugs all around team- Alicia xoxo

Posted by: Alicia Becker on 6/6/2022 at 7:46 pm

Thank you for allowing all of us on your incredible journey!!!
Sending the most amazingly brilliant positive vibes to you Michael & the whole team!!! Go team go!!! I am so proud of you!! Lots of love to all!!
Aunt Tulip

Posted by: Julee Valentine on 6/6/2022 at 6:58 pm

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Carstensz Pyramid: Team Takes First Trek Through the Jungle

June 28, 2012

Posted by: Alex Van Steen, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Carstensz Pyramid

Good Evening, good evening from the Carstensz Pyramid team. We are at Gamagai Village and we have had an incredible day. We had a beautiful flight over the jungle, we were greeted in Sugapa by hundreds of people, friendly, welcoming, and we began our trek on jeeps, very fun. We rode for about 10 minutes and then began our jungle walk. Although we expected a lot of rain and there were clouds all around, it did not rain on us as we went through first couple of villages. It wasn’t until the last couple hours that we experienced the deluge of the jungle. We set up our tents once we got to Gamagai Village but we are not wet a bit, and the reason why is that they welcomed us to do some indoor camping at the local church. We are enjoying a dinner of cheese and all kinds of good food. We are going to get ready for another big day tomorrow, a great fun day. We are looking forward to what the mountain has in store for us and we will catch up in a day or two. All the Best, Alex Van Steen, Mark Tucker and the first inaugural RMI Carstensz Pyramid Expedition team.

Alex Van Steen Checks in From Gamagai Village

On The Map

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Your adventure sounds like a movie! Many thanks for the blog posts since they make it real. Much love to Bill, Katie and Sara.

Posted by: Mom/Grandma on 6/29/2012 at 7:01 am

101 in Atlanta today and no rain. We want to hear from all of you whne possible.

Posted by: Henry on 6/29/2012 at 5:39 am

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Build Throne at 17,200’

June 6, 2012

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leon Davis, Lindsay Mann

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

No. I'm afraid there were no royal celebrations of summit success for us today as we began the morning getting up with guarded optimism that the clouds and wind above us would dissipate just enough to allow us to get in a summit bid. But that did not happen, and instead we retreated back to our tents after prolonging our time over breakfast in the Posh. Unfortunately the clouds descended and eventually we were enveloped in wind and snow that just took some of the energy and motivation we needed to work on camp. So, instead we spent a restful morning in our tents, snug and warm from the elements just beyond the thin nylon fabric we rely so vitally on for our comfort and survival. What do we actually do during these times while waiting for the weather to improve? Of course, reading, listening to music, playing games all come to mind, but simply catching up on sleep is huge. With winds buffeting our tents during the night, coupled with the excitement and anxiety that affects us all before a possible summit day, we can all use the downtime. In fact, it's the climber that deals with this forced inactivity well that tends to be the better climber. A capacity for patience is a hallmark of good expedition climbers. But, I never thought that spending an entire day in the old fart sack helped you out much in terms of adjusting to the altitude, so when we got a nice break in the weather we went out and built the nicest bathroom on the mountain, walled and roofed, and ready for whatever the mountain throws at us. At least we'll take comfort knowing that, when that inevitable time comes, we'll be able to answer that call without sheets of wind blown snow covering our clothes and all too vulnerably exposed parts of our anatomy. As for tomorrow, though the forecast calls for high winds what I'm seeing right now makes me think we have a chance. The winds have calmed and it's sunny and beautiful, with simply gorgeous views of the Alaska Range from our perch here just below the summit of the tallest peak in North America. And now, some closing words from the poet laureate of the arctic, our own Lindsay Mann: At 17 we stay Wishing the wind away Cutting blocks and sawing snow People see out camp and say wow! A ceiling for our bathroom was done To give us privacy from everyone Stories over dinner we share cause team morale is still there Hoping to get the summit As soon as these winds plummet But for now we sit tight And wish for a beautiful night Good night from Brent Okita, Leon and Lindsay

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Climb to Ingraham Flats

May 12, 2024

Posted by: Steve Gately, Avery Parrinello, Drew O’Brien, Calvin Jiricko

Categories:

Elevation: 11,200'

The Four Day Climb May 9 - 12 led by RMI Guides Steve Gately & Avery Parrinello reached Ingraham Flats, 11,200', today before poor route conditions forced them to turn around. The teams enjoyed a beautiful morning on the mountain and did a bit of training, then returned safely to Camp Muir. As of 9 am they had begun their descent from Camp Muir to Paradise. We expect to see them back at BaseCamp in the early afternoon.

Denali Expedition: Cifelli & Team Reach the Summit!

June 25, 2024

Posted by: Dominic Cifelli, Seth Burns, Nicole De Petris

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,310'

Tuesday, June 25, 2024 - 1:27 pm PT

Climbing mountains is hard. Ya that’s obvious, but I’m not only talking about the effort while on the mountain. Whether or not you make it to the summit there’s countless hours spent training, researching, anxiously thinking about what might be. Time spent away from friends and family because “ I’m going to go climb a mountain” and of course the countless question that follow from there. It’s hard to explain though, to those that don’t come out to these wild places to suffer so beautifully. To be trying to do perhaps the hardest thing we’ve ever done in the most remote and beautiful places in the world. It’s so uniquely vulnerable. We do it because we have to, or else we’d be spending those hours and days daydreaming of what could be. We have to find out for ourselves what it’s like and experience a grounding that nothing else can give you.

We summitted Denali, the highest peak in North America, at around 6:20 PM June 24. It was a beautiful day with light, but bitter, winds and clouds all around us but never above us. It was amazing. It was everything we had been working and hoping for over the past 13 days on the darn thing. We rest up tonight, an easier task than most days, and start our long descent back to where it all started 14 days ago, Basecamp.

Thanks to all the friends and family that might not quite understand why, but instead understand that we have to. None of this is possible without that support.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

New Post Alerts:
Denali Expedition June 9, 2024

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Chris (CT one) - many congratulations On your summit and enjoy the beers back in Talkeetna!! Look forward to hearing about your adventures when you get back - well done !!
Huw

Posted by: Huw on 6/26/2024 at 6:01 am

Amazing—what an accomplishment! Can’t wait to hear all about it in-person. A big thanks to all the RMI guides for leading this expedition and being the experts they are!

Posted by: Joshua Rouse on 6/26/2024 at 6:00 am

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Climber’s Perspective: What I Learned On My Recent Aconcagua Expedition

Everest Base Camp Trek: Grom and Team fly to Lukla, Start the Trek

Denali Expedition: Parrinello & Team Return to Talkeetna, Complete Trip

Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Smooth Move to 11,000’ Camp

Ecuador Seminar: Parrinello & Team Enjoy Relaxing Day, Now Head for Antisana

Denali Expedition: Parrinello and Team Cache Gear at 9,500’

Carstensz Pyramid: Team Takes First Trek Through the Jungle

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Build Throne at 17,200’

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Climb to Ingraham Flats

Denali Expedition: Cifelli & Team Reach the Summit!

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