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Mt. Rainier:  May 22nd - Summit Climbs on Top

RMI Guides Jake Beren and Andres Marin checked in at 7:45 a.m. PST to report they were just a few minutes from reaching the crater rim of Mt. Rainier. The teams were experiencing lights winds and cool temperatures with a cloud deck below around 7,500'. The teams enjoyed some time on the summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir.
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Mt. Everest Expedition: Snowing at Base Camp is a Good Thing

Snowy, cold and grey morning at Mt. Everest Basecamp. Which is not entirely a bad thing. In fact, we want it to keep snowing for a few days in order to change the dangerously icy conditions that exist up high on the mountain. Of course, snow down here at 17,500 ft. doesn't translate to snow up at 25,000 ft, but we can only hope. The consensus between guides and expedition leaders on the mountain is that we need some sort of change before we can responsibly send climbers and Sherpas onto the rock-strafed flanks of Lhotse again. This situation makes for a slightly tougher than normal mental game for Everest climbers. Normally, in this first week of May we'd be putting the finishing touches on our conditioning and acclimatization in preparation for the summit. And although we did what we could toward those goals on our last rotation up the hill, it wasn't much without a day or two on the Lhotse Face. But that could not be helped. Unfortunately, we saw, heard of, and dealt with several instances of other climbers getting slammed by rock. Such poor odds of success were not for us. So now we are resting at basecamp and we are in limbo. If the snow actually sticks to the blue ice of the Lhotse Face the chance of a rock blowing off the summit of the 4th highest mountain in the world and hurtling unimpeded down toward our fixed ropes would be greatly reduced and we'd be back in business. If that happens sooner, then we might even have a chance to go back up for a more thorough acclimatization rotation before the summit bid. If time drags on a bit before that snow sticks… we may be left with just a shot at the summit. And if time drags on for several weeks without the change we need… a decent shot at the top is in doubt. In our favor, the jet stream winds that were raking the mountain (and setting free thousands of precariously perched rocks up high) have eased. The word is that the jet is to the South of the mountain now and that relatively low winds are going to be with us… which normally allows for cloud formation and some daily snow. In our favor, there are still teams willing to risk the rockfall (and now snow sluffs) of the Lhotse Face and so we'll get daily reports as to conditions up high and perhaps the route will still get scratched in despite the hazards. We certainly wouldn't ask anyone to endure these conditions, but we aren't so proud and stubborn that we wouldn't take advantage of the good results of such labor when conditions turn favorable. It is hang loose time. Cards, books, movies, naps, meals, get-togethers with other climbers, walks out to "Icy Cyber" (the position ten minutes out in the glacier that gets 3G service), conversations about the weather, the icefall, the fixed ropes and the helicopters… incidentally, there are none today and it is quiet like back in the old days, thanks to the snow. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Hi Dave,

Great post. Glad you guys are playing it safe. Been reading a lot of reports about all the rockfall and lack of snow this year.

Zachary Zaitzeff

Posted by: zachary zaitzeff on 5/5/2012 at 5:34 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Resting and Eating at Base Camp

The weather at Everest Base Camp is cloudy but the temperatures are nice. We have heard that more climbers have successfully reached the top of Mt. Everest. Kaji and Dawa after going to the South Col yesterday have comeback to Base camp. Lam Babu has also returned to Base Camp from Camp 2. Tsering and Yubarj plan on carrying loads to the South Col tomorrow early morning early if the weather allows. Speaking of weather, the forecast for lighter winds has been adjusted to more moderate speeds, we have heard of a number of teams adjusting their summit schedule to a later date. Everyone is looking for that perfect weather window. Some teams are in position for summit attempts tonight and tomorrow night. Our team at Base Camp continues with the resting and eating routine. We are working hard to fatten up Dave, Linden, Sara and Bill. We had a few friends over today to throw some horseshoes. The focus now is keeping track of the forecasts and monitoring resting patterns. How much simpler could life get. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Guys…. my two favorite things resting and eating… but I do know you both can not wait for some your mom’s/wife’s home cooked meals ...  Stay strong and we are all thinking and praying for you!  love. Stacey

Posted by: Stacey on 5/13/2011 at 5:38 pm

Sara and Bill,

WOW, I absolutely love seeing these pictures.  Funny how it does make me think “Anything” I am doing here is so trivial compared to what you all are doing.  Stay Strong like you are… fatten up, (ha)and we will pray for low winds and good weather.  lots of love and prayers. Kathy

Posted by: Kathy Bremer on 5/13/2011 at 3:01 pm


Denali Expedition: A Final Note from Bond & Team

June 25, 2023 10:00am PT

It seems surreal that just 24 hours ago we were sitting on the East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier with our fingers crossed for flyable weather. Kahiltna International Airport (KIA) could have just as easily been our home for the next week but instead we slept easily and comfortably on real mattresses for the first time in nearly 3 weeks. Today and only today the weather cooperated for us to make our escape. How did we get here? Let me tell you...

24 hours prior to the 24 hours that we just experienced...

We woke up to a mix of clouds and sunshine at 14k Camp and casually dismantled camp and packed up all our things. The weather and clouds mostly stayed below us with an occasional surge of precip and wind at camp. The walk down to 11k Camp was uneventful other than a quick reunion with Dominic Cifelli and Dave Hahn's respective RMI climbing teams. High fives were had but we kept moving, we had a timeline to meet.

Once at a 11k Camp again we located our cache, set up tents, made water and ate dinner. The clouds rolled in and out of 11 Camp like the tide on the shore. Like the tide, what was in the clouds was wet and gross. After "napping" for around 3 hours, we "woke up" at 9:30pm to get moving again to catch the lower glacier in its most stable and frozen condition. 

Sadly, the cloud we walked into below 11 Camp was hovering around 33 degrees and raining. The team was quickly covered in a layer of ice and rime. Everything - backpacks, trekking poles, goggles, jackets, pants, were incased in a 1/4 cm of ice. We trudged for several hours through this freezing rain. Eventually we got below the cloud, and everyone shed their icy armor that had accumulated. After a break at the bottom of Ski Hill to recover our cache (and thaw out), we resumed trudging on the lower Kahiltna.

A simple 3 more hours of trudging in what ended up being a fairly direct path across the Kahiltna glacier, we arrived at Heart Break Hill. It was time for the final hour of uphill that must be ascended to return to the airstrip. The team's morale stayed high, and hearts stayed unbroken. We made quick work of Heart Break Hill. Shortly after 5am, we were back at the airstrip; 19 days had elapsed since we were last here. It seemed surreal to be back. Even more surreal the weather continued to cooperate, the cloud ceiling stayed high, the sun showed itself briefly! Around 8:45am the drone of a K2 Turbo Otter was heard. 24 hours after leaving 14k Camp, we were picked up in the most wonderful red plane you've ever seen and whisked back to civilization, Talkeetna. 

Everyone has been awake for 24-36 hours at the time of writing this. There is still much clean up and packing to do before we can sleep.

The trip is over, but our memories and experiences will last a lifetime. This is the final blog from The Bond Girls. If you want to know more, contact your loved ones, they have service now! Even if they're pretending they don't...

Cheers,

The Bond Girls

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Reading the first sentence, the unplugged acoustic version of the Ramones’ “I Wanna Be Sedated” started playing in my head as soundtrack and accompaniment.  Reading what the Bond Girls had to do to get to the plane from 14k, I would say they are the real rockstars.

Posted by: Mike Forsyth on 6/25/2023 at 11:55 am


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Waiting Game Options

Saturday, June 26, 2021 - 9:51 pm PT

Hello all,

Our waiting game is coming to an end. If we wake tomorrow and the winds look good we will head to 17K Camp to get in position for the summit. Camp has been very busy with teams carrying to 17K, moving into 14K Camp, and others getting ready for their move to 17K Camp. Lots of excitment and chatter roaming through the camp. We will see what happens. I know we are all ready to tackle the remaining six thousand feet of this mountain. We have been staring at it for over a week. Since tomorrow may be an early day, its early to bed for the team. We may have a big day ahead of us.

Goodnight,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

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It’s all about the timing and you earned your window! May the stars align & let you enjoy the experience!
Anxious to hear and see what the view is like.
Beanie will not be letting you out the door!

Posted by: Judy collins on 6/27/2021 at 2:57 pm

Praying for great weather and your successful summit!!! Onwards and upwards you all go…
“Only those who will risk going too far can possibly find out how far they can go.”
— T.S. Eliot

So crazy proud of my daughter Julia and the entire team!

DJ aka DeeDee

Posted by: Daysi Johansson on 6/27/2021 at 2:17 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 14th Update

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by Casey Grom and Andres Marin reached the top of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Casey reported beautiful clear skies above 7,500’, a light breeze and cold temperatures. The team will be crossing the crater to Columbia Crest, enjoy the views and then head back to Camp Muir. After a successful summit yesterday, Eric Frank and the Kautz Expedition team will be back at Basecamp in the early afternoon. JJ Justman and the Expeditions Skills Seminar - Emmons team will be spending the day at Basecamp training.
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Cannot wait to hear all about it and see you pictures! Congratulations Dave & John! Must be so amazing up there. :)

Posted by: Miina on 6/14/2013 at 1:30 pm

What a wonderful view from the top!  Great climbing!!  congrats to David and John and the rest of the group1

Posted by: Barbara on 6/14/2013 at 12:16 pm


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Beat Feet to Basecamp

Adam Knoff called into the office just before 6PM. With a storm expected, the team was hoping to make it to basecamp in order to fly off in front of the storm. The weather didn't quite hold and it began to snow in the last hour upon reaching basecamp. The team's plan to unwind in Talkeetna has been thwarted until further notice.

On The Map

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Adam and team, was glad to read the posting that you were down to base camp.  Sorry your summit hopes didn’t work out this time.  Thanks for blogging and helping your mom not worry so much :).  Hope to see or hear from you soon Adam.  I hope you got out today?  Love Kris

Posted by: Kris Bowditch on 7/9/2012 at 8:17 pm

Nels,
I know you are probably pissed about your current situation, but I can’t wait for you to be back on the grid! I miss you and I have so much to tell you! Stay safe and keep writing.
xoxo EB

Posted by: Erica on 7/8/2012 at 6:40 pm


Aconcagua: Liken & Team Descend to Base Camp and Begin Trek Out

Hi all! Due to technical difficulties we were unable to get a blog off last night, but suffice it to say that everyone made it back to Base Camp yesterday in fine form. We supped on champagne and lasagna to celebrate a safe descent from the upper mountain, and awoke this morning to a last minute gear shuffle before the long walk downhill. Our plan is to hike down the Relinchos Valley, and take a right when we hit the Vacas River. Camp tonight will be at Las Lenas, which was our very first stop on this long and eventful journey. "Today was a good day!" RMI Guides Ben Liken & Pepper Dee

On The Map

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Mt. Everest: Team Hikes to Kalapathar

It didn't appear to be a great day for going to the top of Mount Everest, but it was a perfect day for the top of Kalapathar. Dan and Seth and I went back down-valley to Gorak Shep and then hung a right to do the classic hike. Everest still had a jetstream plume of cloud and snow blowing from her upper reaches. But about 10,000 feet lower down we enjoyed sunny and calm spring weather. It was good to be out of base for a bit and away from the all consuming obsession with weather forecasts and picking summit days. We'll get worked up about it all, soon enough. For now it is still a matter of getting the team healthy and strong. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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You all are looking good and healthy.  Stay healthy and strong for your summit.  Looking forward to reading about it.  Blessings for a safe summit. 

AQ Uptown#985 NM/AZ/CO

Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 5/15/2013 at 10:17 am

Love the beard buddy. Looks like your having the time of your life. Good luck everyone at work and myself are rooting for you. Be Safe! Look forward to your return and your stories.
Larry

Posted by: Larry Price on 5/15/2013 at 7:49 am


Mt. McKinley: Jake Beren & Team Fly on the Glacier

We flew onto the Kahiltna Glacier this morning! Our packs are rigged and we are ready to walk up hill to their 7,800' camp. Everyone is healthy, happy and ready to go! We'll check in again when we are settled in at camp. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Kim, my buddy Ice Cube says, YA YA..there was a TB alert in the Big Easy..:)  Keep powering to the top…it must be incredible…

Posted by: WW Coco Chanel on 6/19/2011 at 11:39 am

Good luck anne Gilbert…....have a great time! We are so proud of you!

Posted by: Chris Chase on 6/12/2011 at 4:33 am

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