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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team On Their Way Home

We all finally got off the glacier yesterday afternoon as our flight service, K2, did a wonderful job getting everyone out when conditions seemed like they might close in and shut down flights. After a remarkable twelve days at 17,200', we are all skinny and inhaled large portions of meat, fish, and beer last night. I write this last dispatch as we are riding to the airport to return home to loved ones, and put this remarkable trip behind us. Huge kudos go out to a very strong and committed team of climbers, and to two incredible guides, Leon Davis and Lindsay Mann, who worked so hard to make this trip safe and enjoyable, and who were there at the end when the climbing got really tough and the mountain could not have been harsher. That's all for this year. I need to see my wife and play with the dog. And I'm sure the lawn needs mowing. Thanks for following us on this unprecedented trip. I'll be back next year for a shorter, and less exciting expedition. RMI Guide Brent Okita
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to all of you.  Amazing accomplishment!

Posted by: The Parella Family on 6/18/2012 at 5:41 am

12 Days At 17.2k has to be some kind of record! What tenacity & an epic climb.
I leave Tues for my turn—have to be honest, hope we’re not stuck up at high camp that long—but you all have paved the way.
TM

Posted by: Tim McLaughlin on 6/17/2012 at 10:26 pm


Mt. Rainier: Westling & Team Summit via the Emmons Glacier

RMI Guide Abby Westling and the Emmons Seminar June 25 - 30 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  They reached the summit around 6:30 am on a beautiful, clear day.  After several days of training and climbing the team put it all together to reach the top. The team will return to Camp Schurman today for their last night on the mountain.  They will descend to the White River trailhead tomorrow afternoon and make the drive back to Ashford. 

Congratulations Emmons team!

Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Hahn and Team Move to 11K Camp

Thursday, June 23, 2022 9:41 pm PDT

We made the big move from 8,000 to 11,000 ft today.   This was on mostly familiar terrain for us, of course.  But the unfamiliar parts brought us into a whole new world.  We set out at 5:30 AM from the base of Ski Hill in perfect conditions for mountain climbing.  It was cool, shady and calm and the snow surface was frozen up nicely.  We cruised right on past our food and fuel cache from yesterday and reached the head of the 46-mile long Kahiltna Glacier.  What remained was a little steeper terrain on a feeder glacier, but we managed that hard work without any trouble and pulled into camp at 11 AM.  Things had clouded up a little, which was a good thing, keeping the sun off us as we did the hard pull into camp.  It was nice to be greeted by Andy Bond and his RMI team, enjoying their rest day at 11K.  We set into the hard work of building a new camp at a new elevation.  The clouds began to fade, and we were stunned at the beauty of our surroundings.  Whereas the scenery from within the valleys has been great, now that we are getting up a little, we can start to see out.  The glacial ice surrounding us is endlessly fascinating with giant walls and towers pitched at impossible angles.  We napped away the intense sun that came with the afternoon.  Dinner in a new camp with a new view was excellent. 

Tomorrow we’ll go back down for our supplies. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

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FLORIDA 7TH GRADERS LEARN ABOUT MOUNTAIN CLIMBING FROM TENURED RMI GUIDES

At their teacher’s request, the 7th grade class in Crystal River, FL, Skyped with RMI guides JJ Justman and Joe Horiskey for 60 minutes yesterday. We discussed mountain climbing in general, and fielded questions about Mt Everest in particular. The class was doing a novel study of the book “Peak” by northwest author Roland Smith, which centers on a 14-year-old boy climbing Mt Everest. Their teacher, Sarah, had inquired by email whether RMI would be willing to Skype with her class. Of course the answer was a resounding “Yes!” The students, obviously well-versed in their subject, asked pertinent questions on topics such as: the effects of altitude on the human body, requisites of food and gear for climbing Mt Everest, necessary climbing experience, and surviving for an extended period of time in potentially hostile terrain. Being familiar with the tragedies which had befallen the mountain the past two consecutive years, the class was riveted to hear JJ’s first-hand account of actually being at Camp l last April 25 when the earthquake struck. He also presented video of his evacuation by helicopter to Base Camp. One student asked how climbers deal with being separated from loved ones, friends and family, for extended periods of time. Another inquired about our “scariest moments” as mountain guides. But throughout, our message to the class emphasized safety, and while mountain climbing does involve accepting a certain amount of risk that is the case for many activities in life (sports, driving, etc). Sarah noted at the conclusion of our presentation the kids’ favorite photo was of the abbreviated ‘runway’ in Lukla (at Tenzing-Hillary Airport)! JJ and I really enjoyed talking with Sarah’s class and look forward to similar presentations with hers and others in the future! RMI Guide Joe Horiskey
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Thank you for taking the time to extend our students’ learning. It was great hearing their excitement and discussions after you signed off. You did a great job connecting with them.

Posted by: Lori Casalvieri on 11/19/2015 at 3:15 pm


Mt. Rainier: August 1st Summit!

"By far the best of the year" was RMI Guide Brent Okita's description of today's weather on the summit of Mt. Rainier. Brent led the Four Day Summit Climb July 29 - 1 August to the top this morning. RMI Guide Eric Frank led the Five Day Summit Climb July 28 - 1 August to Rainier's summit with 100% of his team. Both teams reported warm temperatures with just a whisper of wind. They began their descent from the crater rim just before 8 am. The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise. RMI Guide Mike Haugen led the Expedition Skills Seminar on the Kautz Glacier. The team spent the week training at Rainier BaseCamp and on the mountain. This morning they packed up their camp at 13,000' atop Wapowty Cleaver and reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. The team will descend via the Disappointment Cleaver Route. This marks the 100th summit of Mt. Rainier for RMI Guide Mike Haugen. Congratulations Mike! RMI Guide Jake Beren called to check-in from Mt. Shuksan. The team is back at camp after being 100% on top today. Jake reported that the route is “near perfect” with an amazing sunrise, views of Mt. Baker and the surrounding Cascades. They ascended the central gulleys of the summit pyramid and stood on top with windless, sunny conditions. The team had a great descent, rolling in to camp at the same time as the fog. They are back at camp hydrating and resting before hiking out tomorrow. We look forward to seeing all the groups at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats Lindella and team. We are so proud of you!Mom and Dad

Posted by: Linda Smith on 8/4/2012 at 9:20 am

Congrats to Mike on 100!! I was there on the summit with him and our team had an incredible climb together. Thank you to our amazing guides and to my fellow climbers for a great four days on the mountain.

Posted by: Cindee Teer on 8/3/2012 at 9:12 pm


Aconcagua Expedition: Resting at Base Camp

Hey all, This is the Aconcagua crew checking in from Base Camp. It's been a beautiful rest day here with crystal blue skies most of the morning. It was a great day to sit outside, enjoy the sun, and visit with other teams here. Several folks were even warm enough to take showers via nalgene bottles. It hasn't been all play though, as each team member had to sort through gear and decide what is going to make the move with us and what will stay here at base camp. It's an important task, since from here on out, every extra thing we bring adds weight to our packs. We will enjoy a last gourmet dinner from our outfitter, Grajales, before our big move to Camp 1 tomorrow. As I write, clouds are building, and it looks like we may get a touch of snow to brighten the landscape tonight. All the best, and we'll check in from 16,000' tomorrow! Ciao, RMI Guides Pete, Gabi, Gilbert, and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Jeff & team,  I look forward to reading the blog everyday, sounds all good from here. I’ll bet you are getting to know one another & know who you’re on the mtn w/keep the postive feedback coming.  I hope you are sleeping well,I could just picture you taking a shower from you water bottle.  Love always, take care mum

Posted by: Norene Kimes on 1/15/2012 at 12:25 pm

Larry,
Hang in there, be safe and have fun!

Posted by: Holly Seaton on 1/14/2012 at 8:01 pm


Denali National Park Mt. McKinley Expedition: Cifelli and Team Cache at 16,500’

Friday, June 20, 2025 10:02pm PDT

You must go up to go down, and go down to go up.

The team started the day with a simple yet efficient breakfast of cereal and coffee before donning their crampons, roping up, and beginning their walk out of camp at roughly 8:30 a.m.

The climb out of 14 Camp quickly gains elevation, built up by rolling slopes that offer brief stretches of reprieve before reaching the base of the fixed lines. A steep and icy headwall, the fixed lines provide both access to the upper mountain and a formidable challenge to anyone seeking passage. Installed each season by climbing rangers and maintained by guides, the fixed lines serve as a two-lane highway to Denali’s flank—the West Buttress.

The team made great progress, gaining elevation quickly as they found a rhythm in the often awkward and unfamiliar technique of fixed-line travel. After nearly 1,000 feet of “jugging” up various rope sections, the team broke through to the ridge, rounded a corner, and found shelter at the base of the Buttress—the high point for the day. Sheltered by rocky outcroppings, the team took a well-earned break while the guides collected gear to be left behind and dug out a cache.

Once the gear was stashed, the team turned and began the quite different, yet equally challenging, descent down the lines. Using arm wraps and steady footwork, they made their way down in a timely and stylish fashion.

Good snacks, a cozy tent, and the promise of a rest day awaited them upon return to 14 Camp.

RMI Guide Michael Bennet & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Such an amazing experience and kudos to the climbing rangers and guides who install and maintain the fixed lines (had to look up what that is). 14,200 ft!! All your hard work and preparation is paying off and we cannot wait to hear more and see photos.
We’re all so proud of you, Mikayla and team!
Love,
Tante Mary

Posted by: Mary McKinley on 6/22/2025 at 1:14 am

Hi dad -
It’s me wells. I’ve been missing you so much. I love you. I’m proud of you for doing hard work. It’s good that you’re okay. I’m about to go to bed, but I wanted to leave a quick comment. And I love you.
Love wells

Posted by: Wells hal on 6/21/2025 at 10:01 pm


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Being Patient at 17,000’ Camp

June 14, 2017 Greetings from 17 Camp. Today high winds and low temps provided a combo that will keep us from climbing Denali for another day. But our fingers are crossed that tomorrow may have something better in store for us, so please do the same down in the south land. Hopefully we will be calling you with a little bit different news. For right now the team is doing 17,000' Camp, we are hunkered down, being patient, full bellies, happy, healthy and hoping to go for the summit soon. That's all for now. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Cheryl just got your text and hope you reach the summit tomorrow. Be careful and my prayers will be with you and your team. Love you.

Posted by: Jo on 6/15/2017 at 9:17 pm

Jim Walker—good luck on the climb to the summit. All of the Guff clan and all of Vineyard Lane is very proud of you. We look forward to hearing all about the climb in detail over some good burgundy at the Chanty. Be safe. Drew

Posted by: Drew Guff on 6/15/2017 at 9:12 pm


Kilimanjaro: Preparing for Summit Day

Jambo from Barafu Camp, The team did great today on our move up to high camp. The hard work over the last five days has paid off and we are now ready for our summit attempt. Today was our shortest day of hiking so far, and we made it to Barafu Camp in just under 3 hours. Now we have the whole afternoon to rest up and sort through our gear one last time, just to make sure we have everything we need for tomorrow. You would not be able guess we are at 15,000' right now. The sun is finally winning out over the clouds and it is warm, especially inside the tents. It won't last long, but we'll take it while it does. An early dinner is the plan for tonight and hopefully we will be horizontal by 6:30 pm. The alarm is already set for 11:45 pm, and hope to be walking by 1:00 am. We should be arriving at the crater rim around sunrise and then one final stretch up to Uhuru Peak, the Roof of Africa. Our group is really strong and up for the challenge of tomorrow. Thanks the positive comments on the blog. Will try and check-in from the summit tomorrow, or when we get down to Mweka Camp. RMI Guide Jeff Martin and Team Simba Sita

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Heidi and David. Excited to follow your daily progress.
Look forward to hearing that you have reached the summit
and accomplished your objective! All the best! Stay safe and
be strong. XOXO Dad

Posted by: Craig Berkman on 2/18/2012 at 8:53 pm

Great to follow your amazing advendure through the blog and photos!  Hope today’s ascent exceeds your expectations and that the Roof Of Africa was as phenomenal as it sounds.  See you when you return home.  Safe travels and have fun!

Posted by: Romy Mortensen on 2/18/2012 at 2:33 pm


Aconcagua: Carry to Camp 1

Today was a good day for our team carrying up to Camp 1. The team climbed strong with legit loads to make our future move a little easier. We enjoyed near perfect weather again on the way up to camp, ascending the moraine up to a snow patch of penitentes before gaining camp. As we made our cache weather rolled in from the west and we got our first taste of how quickly things can change up here. Our descent was beautiful in the sideways snow squall that cleared as we returned to basecamp. Tomorrow will be a recovery day here at basecamp before we move onto the upper mountain. Now it's off to bed, buenas noches. RMI Guide Jake Beren
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

      DAD! This is awesome, I can’t imagine what your seeing and experiencing. Best wishes and Happy Xmas to you and the team.
      One thing you always told me was “Lean into the spear.” Remember that when times get tough! love you so much and I am proud of you ...Love Bridy:)...

Posted by: Britany Fitzgerald on 12/21/2011 at 5:46 am

Richard: We are watching and reading every day…keep up the good work, sounds like you are all doing great. Hang on in those winds. mom

Posted by: Linda Robertson on 12/20/2011 at 9:01 am

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