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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Focus Changes

July 16, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Another night, another snow storm. This morning as we got the stoves fired and the POSH pit dug out once again, it was clear that our summit chances had slipped away. That was all that was clear... the day was much like the night, clagged in and snowing. We had a team meeting at breakfast and a retreat from 14,200 ft was proposed. Rather than merely waiting for a break in the weather to head up onto the West Buttress, we are now back in the uncomfortable position of having loaded avalanche slopes blocking our ascent. They'd need that tedious and time-consuming process of cooking in the (seldom seen) sun and stabilization and careful evaluation... all over again. And we won't have resources for that if we are to devote a little food and fuel to getting safely down and off the mountain. Folks expressed their disappointment at not getting to see the mountaintop, but also their recognition that we simply hadn't gotten a break from sloppy weather. Something had to give. We are going down, but we aren't exactly finished climbing yet. We still need an easing of the current snowstorm and then we'll need a strong and focused team to negotiate the terrain that took a week of careful climbing on the way in. Perhaps the night will pass without a new storm and we'll be able to begin working toward the airstrip tomorrow. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Cathy: we know that you are disappointed not been able to go all the way!!!! We know you could have made it. But, we are happy that you had a great adventure!!!! Your little soon to be niece/nephew is excited too!!!!!!

Love, Kae and Caroline

Posted by: Kae on 7/17/2012 at 5:24 am

Brian and team, I can only imagine how disappointed y’all must be, but you accomplished far more than most people will ever get a chance at. The experiences and memories of your time on McKinley will last a life time. Plant the flag and take the picture (still a great shot). We are looking forward to your safe return and beautiful pictures. We love you , RB, TB & CB

Posted by: Robin, Tristan and Connor on 7/16/2012 at 8:20 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team - Hangin’ in the Hangar

June 20, 2012

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Mike Uchal, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

After a delicious Roadhouse breakfast and stories from the world famous Fairview Inn pre-party, the team has been busy sorting gear for the trip. The weather is beautiful right now and we're prepping to fly onto the mighty Kahiltna tomorrow morning. Until then we're enjoying solid earth under our feet, the smells of lush green plants in our noses and hearty meals in our bellies. Cheers from the RMI Knoff, Uchal and Blais team. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Lookin good Uncle Gords!!! Best o’luck to you all! Trackin your every move from Boston.

The Reisers

Posted by: Petah Reisah on 6/23/2012 at 1:54 pm

Joyce says Hi from VL. She had 6 to serve today. Remember what she said about you gettin up that slope!
BE SAFE!

Posted by: YETI on 6/22/2012 at 8:25 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Stormy Weather Summit

May 20, 2012

Posted by: Brent Okita

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Despite stormy conditions, a small summit climb team reached the summit today led by Brent Okita. The team did not linger on the summit before beginning their descent at 8:00 a.m. The climbs are back to Paradise and are currently on their way to Rainier Basecamp in Ashford. Congratulations!

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Gary, We are so excited for you! Ian and I love you very much! Ang

Posted by: Angela Rennie on 5/24/2012 at 12:01 pm

Congratulations Brad and Dave! We can’t wait to hear the story….

Love,
Rachel

Posted by: Rachel on 5/20/2012 at 9:08 pm

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Fly to the Glacier Settle in to Camp 1

May 20, 2022

Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

Thursday, May 19, 2022 - 12:35 am PT

Today the team woke up from a tumultuously excited slumber to bluebird skies and calm winds in Talkeetna, which apparently mirrored the conditions in the Alaska range. Due to our fastidious preparation the day before we stepped off the asphalt onto two full loaded Dehavilland Otters shortly after 830.

As the wheels left the tarmac we were treated to the most incredible flight into the Alaska Range I have ever experienced. It seemed as if we could see forever, and that’s because I’m pretty sure we could. The winds were so calm that we could fly through passes with granite and glaciers towering above the planes, seemingly no more than a wingspan away.

As the skis of the Otters came to a stop we were pleased to hear the sound of frozen crunchy snow beneath our boots. After a few hours of re packing and reviewing skills, we walked to Camp 1 under deep blue skies, wearing nothing but our sun hoodies and toothy grins.

Now we are settled into our sleeping bags, much like our camp is nestled in the immense beauty of the alaska range.

RMI Guides JT, Matias, Jackson and the RMI team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hello Ken! What amazing scenery! Our best wishes to you and your team members for a safe and successful climb! We’ll be following your progress.

Diane and John

Posted by: Diane and John Bertosa on 5/21/2022 at 11:11 am

What beautiful pictures!! Must have been an amazing flight and glad to hear the walk to Camp 1 elicited more grins than groans (although one could not fault you for leaving those out of the blog!). Thanks so much for posting!!

Posted by: Nestor Davidson on 5/21/2022 at 3:41 am

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Chile Ski: Reid & Team Storm Day at Teski Refugio

October 8, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Reid

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Chile Ski

Elevation: 3,937'

The storm arrived to the region as predicted yesterday and continues out our window here on the lower flanks of Volcan Osorno. We are sipping coffee by the fire in the comfort of our refugio after a chill day of travel to get here. Hard to say if tomorrow will be a summit day, but it looks pretty promising as a powder day! RMI Guide Tyler Reid

Kilimanjaro: Waterfall & Team Summit!

September 17, 2011

Posted by: Seth Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Elevation: 19,340'

This is Seth checking in from the summit of Kilimanjaro (19,340 feet). Everyone in our group has reached the top! The weather has been spectacular all day. We watched the sunrise from the crater rim and have been enjoying the warmth. It's all down hill from here! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

Seth Waterfall checking in from the Roof of Africa.

On The Map

Ecuador Volcanoes: Team Reach Summit in unfavorable weather

January 31, 2022

Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Avery Parrinello

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 18,997'

After a late start due to poor weather last night, the team got moving this morning with the promise of a nicer day. However, conditions deteriorated once they reached the glacier with humidity and worrisome flashes of lightning in the distance. Those flashes ended up subsiding and the weather turned marginally better making it possible to reach the summit of Cayambe. Just a few members of the team reached the 18,997' summit, but everyone fought hard with every step. All team members pushed themselves today and will enjoy a rest day at the Chilcabamba Eco Lodge tomorrow.

We have our hopes for better weather on Cotopaxi and I know that any of these climbers stand a good chance to reach the summit of one of the highest active volcanoes in the world!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Mountaineering Training | Managing Varying Temperatures

June 17, 2013

Posted by:

Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training

Climbers commonly joke that it’s either “freeze or fry” in the mountains. Some moments of a climb can feel like a winter ascent of Denali while others are more like the afternoon heat of a safari in Tanzania. Rarely do the temperatures in the mountains stay at a comfortable level. Even though we are often traveling on glaciers and permanent snowfields in the summer, the days can be hot - especially on the approaches to climbs. Yet, at higher elevations and in the dark hours of the night when we begin our ascents the temperature drops. Throw in a light breeze at 13,000’ and it’s downright cold. While the temperature does indeed vary between bone chilling cold and bewildering heat, our goal as climbers is to manage those swings in temperature to keep ourselves at a comfortable, even level. Our bodies are pretty good at managing heat and most of us know how to do so well. Protecting ourselves from the intense sun of higher elevations and staying hydrated and replacing lost fluids is critical. It can be a challenge to carry enough water for an all-day climb and a good trick many climbers and guides use is to “pre-hydrate” beforehand by drinking lots of water while it is readily available and then rationing the water you have at your disposal throughout the day so that it will last. For example, climbing to Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier typically takes about 5 hours with 4 breaks on the way. If you’re carrying 2 litres of water then aim to drink a ½ litre at each stop so that you are still hydrated on your last stretch of the day. Afterwards, re-fill your bottle and drink plenty of water to rehydrate and recover for the climb the next day. The cold temperatures can have a negative effect on our performance as well by diverting the energy we have for the climb to keeping our bodies warm. Careful, conscious clothing choice is the best strategy to keeping your body at an even temperature level. It’s not uncommon to feel chilly around camp and add an extra layer when you begin climbing only to find yourself overheated in minutes. Then, when you stop for a water break all that perspiration cools and you find yourself shivering. Be strategic in your clothing choices when climbing, wearing the right amount of layers that you need to stay comfortable while climbing and adding layers at breaks to preserve that heat. A hat is great temperature regulator as it is easy to take on and off as needed without having to stop to take off your pack. The cold, dry air of high altitude also dehydrates you, making the need to stay hydrated all the more important. As you head into the mountains, whether climbing or training, keep these strategies in mind. Begin hydrating before you hit the trail and keep an eye on how much water you have so that it will last throughout the day. Also, try to use the gear you plan to climb with in your training to experiment with different clothing layers and get a feel for the layers that work for you to maintain an even body temperature despite the changes in environment. Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

Mt. Rainier: June 16th Update

June 16, 2013

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by Dan Windham reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning! The team took advantage of the firm snow conditions offered by climbing in the wee morning hours and are making their way back through the clouds to sunny Camp Muir. The team will descend to Paradise and return to Ashford later today. We have a Five Day Summit Climb at Camp Muir, an Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons beginning their time on the mountain.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations for all the team but specially to my brother Marcoos, I am so proud of him.I love you.

Posted by: Clau Bere on 6/19/2013 at 2:56 pm

I´m so proud of you my dear son Marcos. Kisses, your Mom.

Estoy muy orgullosa de ti, mi querido hijo Marcos. Besos, tu mare.

Posted by: Guadalupe Castillo on 6/18/2013 at 2:28 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Summit Day!

September 19, 2013

Posted by: Brent Okita, JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir September 15 - 19 led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and JJ Justman reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Brent reported a beautiful day with no winds and blue skies all around. The team will conclude their week on the mountain tomorrow. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp tomorrow afternoon.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats!! Awesome!

Posted by: Nissa on 9/20/2013 at 3:15 pm

Great job Sanath! We are very excited for you, can’t wait to hear all about it and have a safe trip back.

Manju

Posted by: manjula on 9/20/2013 at 12:35 pm

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Most Popular Entries

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Focus Changes

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team - Hangin’ in the Hangar

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Stormy Weather Summit

Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Fly to the Glacier Settle in to Camp 1

Chile Ski: Reid & Team Storm Day at Teski Refugio

Kilimanjaro: Waterfall & Team Summit!

On The Map

Ecuador Volcanoes: Team Reach Summit in unfavorable weather

Mountaineering Training | Managing Varying Temperatures

Mt. Rainier: June 16th Update

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Summit Day!

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