The last guided climb of the Denali 2012 season is done and down. Safe. But, without a summit, which happens sometimes. We got together in Talkeetna way back at the end of June—eight climbers and four guides—and we talked strategy and packed gear and we were issued permits. And, since the weather was a little sloppy, we didn’t fly immediately. Instead, we ate some more and drank some more and talked a bit more strategy. But on the 29th of June, we did get to fly into the Alaska Range and of course it was worth the wait.
As is always the case in late season, we’d been concerned as to how well put-together the lower glacier might be, but a few minutes flight over the Kahiltna in a de Havilland Otter convinced us it had been a good year for snow. Once on the ground (7,200 feet on the Southest Fork of the Kahiltna) we reviewed glacier travel techniques and waited for the middle of the night so as to allow the glacier surface to freeze solid. It did just that and we moved out early the next morning. We made pretty decent progress those first days… camp at 7,800 feet, move to 9,500 feet, migrate on up to 11,000 feet. As always, we started doing “carries” at 11,000 feet… climbing high and sleeping low so as to let our bodies catch up to the altitude. The gang was healthy and doing great and the weather was workable… if not stable. It was snowy and cloudy somewhere each and every day… just not exactly on top of us, and so we were able to make good use of the days.
The mountain got a lot more interesting as we left the valleys and ventured up onto the ridges on our move to Genet Basin at 14,200 feet. We “caught up” to about a dozen guide parties from other companies there and everybody was still optimistic about climbing high and making the top. We’d been on the mountain for a week at that point. But it started snowing. And then it seriously started snowing. Teams began to run out of food and fuel and quit the mountain. Then it snowed about two feet in 24 hours and we had an avalanche problem. The problem was that we believed there was instability on the steep slopes we needed to climb up in order to make any progress and there was no solution but to wait for stability. Which didn’t come.
We needed hot, sunny days to settle the problem and instead we got day after day of a little more cloud, snow and wind. Teams quit and descended… one after another. Finally, we teamed up with the last two guided parties on the hill to bust trail and evaluate hazard and perhaps find a way to the “fixed ropes” leading to the crest of the West Buttress. The mission took all day and required some dicey belays across “whumping” snow, but it resulted in a workable and safe track to the ropes… we were back in business. Until it snowed that night and the next morning.
Back at square one with a new hazard and no track. The other guided teams quit the mountain that day and we stayed another two days in a last attempt at getting some sort of good luck. But that didn’t come, just more snow and more clouds and more predictions for snow and clouds. We spent about 12 days at 14,200 feet and then we turned our backs on the summit and started busting trail down through the powder. Things got easier as we got lower on the mountain and we were at the SE Fork again by morning of our 19th day on the hill. And the weather cleared magnificently then… allowing a view of the summit we hadn’t reached, but also making the flight off possible.
Showers and dinners and drinks and beds in Talkeetna were pretty good, even without a summit. We’ll get it next time.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Hello! It’s Tyler,Eric and Logan checking in after a long day of work in Talkeetna.
Yesterday we had a sunny drive through the Alaskan scenery before arriving in Talkeetna in late evening. This completed a long day of travel from our various home bases to our soon to be new home on the “Great One”- Denali.
This morning the team met for breakfast at the Roadhouse Restaurant to officially start the program. After chatting about the day, we walked across the small town of Talkeetna to K2 Aviation. As planes took off and landed around us, the team spread out clothing and equipment in the airport hanger and consulted endless checklists. As we made our final gear selections, the hanger was buzzing with excitement.
After an afternoon break for pizza and salad, we all headed to the National Park Service headquarters for an orientation meeting. We chatted about the importance of keeping our impact low as we climb and live in the park for the next few weeks. After the orientation, we spent some time working on rigging sleds, setting up tents and building other skills.
At noon the hanger looked like a yard sale; clothing and gear scattered everywhere. By the time we left for dinner, all of our ducks were in a row. We now have duffels and packs neatly stacked in the front of the hanger. We are ready to go and eager to get on the glacier.
RMI Guides Peter Van Deventer & Dominic Cifelli led their Four Day Climb July 31 - 3 August teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The groups reached the crater shortly after 6 am and enjoy some time snapping photos and enjoying the views. Pete reported lights wind and a thicken lenticular cloud just off the summit as they started their descent around 7:30 am. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing the final 4,500' descent to Paradise.
The Four Day Summit Climb Led by RMI Guides Kel Rossiter and Ben Liken reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The teams reported a beautiful day for climbing with clear skies and light winds. They have started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's teams!
The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb led by Mike Haugen reached the summit in hot weather and no wind. The team departed the crater rim at 8 a.m. Once the team is at Camp Muir, they will regroup and continue their descent to Paradise.
JJ Justman and his Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons are driving to White River to begin their four days on the Camp Schurman/Emmons Route.
The RMI Summit Climb team, led by Tyler Reid, is currently on the top of Mt. Rainier. A beautiful day with hardly any wind on the highest point of Washington. The team will spend some time on top before they begin their descent.
Congratulations to today's summit climb team!
The Kilimanjaro Family Climb reached Uhuru Peak this morning, the summit of Kilimanjaro and the highest point in Africa! Watch their video dispatch from today's climb:
Congratulations team Kilimanjaro Family Climb!!! It was very fun watching your progress on facebook. I especially enjoyed the caption contest and winning the trekking poles-thank you! My new poles will be going along on my hiking and climbing adventures!!! Wonderful memories for both dads and daughters, as I have when I hiked and climbed with my father many years ago!!!
Posted by: Lynette Alber on 11/4/2013 at 2:30 pm
You’ve conquered Kilimanjaro!!! Everest next??? Congratulations to the team especially the Golden ones!
Hello!
Mark Tucker checking in with an update from Tanzania, Africa. We are on our day one of the ascent of Mt. Kilimanjaro with RMI Expeditions. We started under clear skies and beautiful weather with a high temperature of close to 80 degrees throughout the day.
We arrived our Camp 1, Machame Camp, around 10,000’ and everybody is in good shape. Attitudes are very, very well. We just finished a nice chicken dinner and we are getting ready to crawl into our tents.
Being a clear evening, I anticipate that it will probably get down to about freezing maybe a little frost on the tents in the morning. But everybody’s gear is checking out and will be tucked into warm sleeping bags and we are looking forward to a good night’s rest. We are still a little tired from our flights from the US. Everyone is doing very well and excited to be here.
We will check in tomorrow with another update. All the best from Tanzania.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
RMI Guide Mark Tucker checks in from Machame Camp on Kilimanjaro.
Happy birthday to your 50th’s from the EU Team! Hopefully you’ll be able to find a piece of cake of your way up today! (Who knows, maybe Scott brought some?)
All the best for you and the team for the way up!
Posted by: Daniel on 7/25/2012 at 11:34 pm
Hello Dennis, Eric and Milbraths,
We are glad to hear that everyone is safe and having a great time. We are sure that you are seeing some amazing sights. We’ll relive it with you when you share the many hours of video that will surely come back with you. ;-) Hope the Go-Pro’s hanging in there! Tomorrow sounds like a challenge - stay safe and enjoy. Love, Kim, Sarah & Danny
The team climbed from Camp 1 up to Camp 2 (ABC) today in perfect conditions. They will stick to the rough outline for now spending three or four nights at Camp 2. While at Camp 2 their main objective is taking care of themselves by eating, drinking and resting. Over the next couple of days they will climb towards Camp 3 to stretch their legs and lungs and keeping with the climb high, sleep low philosophy.
Everyone is doing well and we look forward to seeing them back in Base Camp in a few days.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
continued prayers with you guys, good luck on stage 3,
love reading your personal “posts”, great stuff. Adam and Owen were asking about you both last night at dinner. God bless.
David
Posted by: david eicher on 5/2/2011 at 10:16 am
Amazing journey. I am so excited that you guys are making such outstanding progress. Thinking of you guys as you climb higher and higher.
Lowndes
Posted by: Lowndes Harrison on 4/30/2011 at 4:05 am
Have an AMAZING and AWESOME experience, Logan!!! Thinking of you and the rest of the team…. Can’t wait to follow the expedition!
Posted by: Lindsay Randolph on 6/16/2012 at 1:51 pm
have a great time
billy k
Posted by: billy and mary on 6/3/2012 at 4:04 pm
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