Most Popular Entries
Summit! The Five Day Summit Climb led by Pete Van Deventer and the Four Day Summit Climb led by Brent Okita reached the top of Mt. Rainier early this morning. At 6:40 a.m. Brent radioed Camp Muir to say they were descending out of the summit crater. He reported great weather for the climb. We look forward to congratulating them in Ashford this afternoon!
Friday, June 7, 2013
Happy 100 Year Anniversary of the
first ascent of Denali to all our friends in the lowlands! We celebrated the occasion by leaving Basecamp for our first camp at the base of Ski Hill. On our way we ran into RMI Team 3 with Brent, Leah and Logan, fresh (generous term) from the summit. A big congratulations for a job well done.
We travelled early this morning, making use of the cooler temps to stay on the surface of the snow instead of post holing our way into utter frustration. Our way to camp was smooth and we can only hope the melting snow doesn't disappear too fast so that we can make our way out of here in a few weeks. I'm sure it will work out just fine.
We plan on calling it early tonight and carrying higher early tomorrow morning while it's still cold and then we can soak up the heat in the afternoon. The team is off to a great start, climbing strong and happy to be on the mountain.
RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
On The Map
Noah's Ark doesn't have anything on us! Yesterday the mountain received a little precipitation and as our team approached
Camp One, we discovered a new river running through camp.
Not only are tents up and people are settled in but we are on ditch digging crew to divert our new river, which we named Rio
Horiskey.
The entire team did great getting up to 16,500 feet. We are camped a little higher than the normal camp because we like peace, quiet and pristine water. The agenda for tonight is to make hot drinks and eat another fine meal.
I have a little surprise for the team. In honor of playoff weekend I brought some Green Bay Packers hot dogs. You know...for good luck!
RMI Guide JJ Justman & Team
On The Map
This is
RMI Guide Adam Knoff, checking in from high camp on Denali at 17,000’. We had a sweet climb from 14,000’, up the fixed lines and along the crest of the
West Buttress, eventually dropping into the basin where camp is placed. What an absolutely spectacular day of climbing! Unfortunately, the predicted nice weather did not materialize and in fact, has deteriorated. Such is life on Denali, where all movement is dictated by weather. We are securely entrenched in camp, with sturdy walls and a posh cook tent. We have plenty of supplies, and now it becomes a waiting game. We will keep you updated.
On The Map
Do two times constitute a trend? Probably not, but today did share a few similarities with yesterday. We woke to a little squirrelly weather with a few inches of snow on the tents and it was unclear whether heading up was a good idea or not. We watched the skies and eventually decided to move. As we climbed into the whiteout above camp and onto
Ski Hill proper, the snow stopped and we enjoyed pockets of visibility. It was downright hot as we pulled into camp with an excellent down glacier view. We were able to go down to baselayers as we built camp and as soon as we finished setting up shop it began to snow. Now we are enjoying a hot beverage before some Tortellini a la Thomas for dinner. Tomorrow we'll see what happens in the sky and hopefully move to 11 camp.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
We woke up early today for the long hike to basecamp. The tents were wet from the fog that rolled through moments earlier and was still visible slowly making its way down valley. After a quick breakfast, we packed our duffles for the trip to basecamp began the longest walk of the climb. It would be 10.7 miles over dry, undulating terrain and across streams fed by snow and glacial melt as we slowly gained elevation. It was the clearest and sunniest day so far. Great for sightseeing, not so great when trekking through a high altitude desert. The summit of Aconcagua even managed to make a brief appearance once or twice along the way. After 10 miles of hard walking we made the final push straight up hill for the last .7 into basecamp. The team crushed the trek coming in two hours under the expected time, far outpacing both guides estimates. This team is Muy Fuerte, as they say here in Argentina. We are definitely feeling the altitude here at 14,500', but it’s nothing a rest day can’t fix. Tomorrow we relax and soak in the base camp vibes while planning our move to the upper mountain.
RMI Guide Nick Scott
At the end of a long season on
Mt. Rainier I enter my off season; sleep deprived, constantly hungry around midnight (breakfast time at Camp Muir), fuzzy on what my role is at home after being away for 5 months and physically worn down. I am in great shape to walk uphill slowly with a heavy pack, but that’s about it. All of my attempts to continue my strength and conditioning during the Rainier season can’t override my body’s need for
rest. Yet when my guiding season ends, training season begins.
Personally, I hate the monotony of traditional gym training, which is why I use CrossFit. The workout is different everyday and the community is supportive and at the same time competitive. I am asked to improve my competency in the following fitness domains: cardiovascular and respiratory endurance, stamina, strength, flexibility, power, speed, coordination, agility, balance, and accuracy. I have coaches who hold me accountable to my goals and adapt the programming to my needs. It is a tricky balance though, since diving into this type of programming after being absent for five months exposes me to injury.
I typically have two and a half months starting in October to train for the
Aconcagua season. For the first week my schedule is 2 days on, followed by 1 active rest day. The 2 days involve attending a one-hour class, which incorporates a 15-minute warm up, 10 - 15 minute skill session followed by the 7 - 20 minute workout. The class finishes with mobility and recovery exercises. My active recovery day might be a long run, mountain bike, or climbing. My goals during this first week are to work on the ten fitness domains and get plenty of sleep. The active recovery days are designed to give me a break from the intense workouts, but are certainly not a day to sit on the couch.
For weeks 2 - 6 I increase my training to 3 days on followed by 1 day off. My off day will usually be an active recovery day. During this phase I continue to build on the previously mentioned fitness domains. Increasing intensity and output allows me to embrace the suffering of the next set, mile, or hill climb. This helps me address the mental side of climbing mountains.
During weeks 7 - 10 I continue with 3 days on followed by 1 rest day. On Monday and Wednesday I will complete a one-hour class in the morning and that evening o an additional hour of interval training; either running or rowing. My rest day is just that, a day to recover and prepare from the two-a-days. I program eight workouts per week to train my body and mind to work hard when I ask it and better utilize rest when available. Interval training provides the most direct correlation to how I exert myself in the mountains.
When I arrive in Argentina I am confident that I am prepared physically and mentally for the expedition. I may still struggle with altitude or fatigue at times during the 20-day trip, however, I have trained my body and mind to work hard when needed and (as importantly) rest when opportunity arises.
________
Mike King guides around the world for RMI Expeditions, from Argentina to Alaska. He has climbed and guided across the country, thru hiked the Appalachian Trail, and ridden his bike across the country. Mike now lives with his wife in Bend, OR, where she owns and runs Fearless Baking. Mike will be guiding an
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar next May, and is headed to
Aconcagua on December 20th with Jake Beren. Follow them on the
RMI Blog!
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on theÂ
RMI Blog!
There was some reason for hope today for getting the
Antarctic flights rolling. But in the end the better weather didn't quite materialize. We didn't waste much time fretting over the situation though. The team rallied after leisurely breakfast coffees (extending well into the afternoon) and set off on an urban hike. At least it began as an urban hike, through the streets of Punta Arenas, accumulating stray dogs as we went along, but after about an hour of hard walking we worked our way into the countryside. The wind was howling and the clouds were covering sun and sky, but we persevered. Ultimately we found ourselves in park-like surroundings, climbing the ski area overlooking town. At the top we were two thousand feet higher and about 7.5 miles from our lodging. We still had one stray dog and about fifty miles per hour of wind, to go along with an unexpectedly grand view of Punta and the whitecaps of the Straits of Magellan.
We were back down to the waterfront and the friendly tourist restaurants by early evening, celebrating another fine summit together.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Plenty of snow came down overnight and throughout the day. The team did a great job getting out in the night to dig out tents, despite the mean winds that made the morning a bit rough. By about 10 AM though, winds were lessening and we were able to have a group breakfast in the rebuilt POSH tent. Walking even a few steps out of camp, one was generally up to mid-thigh in the new snow... meaning we didn't walk out of camp much. We let it snow. We rested. We read. We chatted. We passed time and then we ate dinner. The eight o'clock weather forecast was eagerly anticipated and it actually gave some reason for optimism this time. We were told that the snows would fade this evening and that tomorrow (Monday) wouldn't be half bad. And that is good. We need a day that includes a bit of sun to settle the avalanche hazard surrounding us.
As we came out from dinner and prepared camp for another night of storm, we were pleased to get a break. The sun appeared (briefly) and we were able to see the entire
West Buttress and South Peak and even a splash of blue sky overhead. Perhaps it was the new snow covering everything or maybe it was because we hadn't had much scenery at all to look at lately, but we found the view to be breathtaking and brilliant.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
The Four Day Summit Climb June 12 - 15 led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Paul Rachele enjoyed a nice hike to Camp Muir yesterday after completing their Climbing School the day prior. This morning, however, the weather prevented the teams from making a summit attempt on Mt. Rainier. Win reported high winds and precipitation in the form of snow. The teams will descend from Camp Muir and return to Ashford this afternoon.
Previous Page
Next Page
.jpg)
Congratulations Team Miller!! We Are so excited and proud!!!
Posted by: Bonnie, Curry and Jamie on 7/30/2013 at 9:51 am
Good job Nick - at least you made an attempt - next for you is Everest
Posted by: Captain H on 7/29/2013 at 2:39 pm
View All Comments