We really shouldn't complain, as it could be much worse. Some people have been waiting 11 days already at Union Glacier to fly back to Punta. We've only been stuck for two days. But, for an active group of people, two days lying in the tent in a fog as thick as pea soup...well, that can be like an eternity.
We're hanging in there, though. We got a brief respite this morning when the clouds lifted enough to expose the checkerboard of icefall immediately outside of camp, and a brief glimpse down to the Nimmitz Glacier. But, then it all socked in again, encasing us in a deep, thick fog and taking visibility down to about 50 meters.
So, we read. We sleep. We listen to music. We eat. We repeat. Not much else can be done. Patience, and a good sense of humor - two essential elements for a good team in the mountains.
We made it to the mountain! We got up this morning, had a last cafe breakfast in town, and loaded the YAZ vans for the trip to Elbrus-Northside Basecamp. The YAZ is the itinerant vehicle in rural Russia, and Mike Uchal's next car. Styled like a Volkswagen van, but diesel, four-wheel drive, with nothing but the basics inside, they are built to bounce, bump, splash, and grind their way over terrain, generally at what feels like a fair amount of speed. That's exactly what we did this morning. Our drivers Igor and Yuri deftly maneuvered us over the rough four-wheel drive track that leads to base camp.
Upon our arrival, we quickly erected our small city of tents, went for a walk to stretch our legs, dodged into the tents to hide from a passing rain shower, and covered up a delicious dinner of chili.
Tomorrow, we'll move a load of things up to the camp on the moraine at 12,000'. We'll be in touch afterwards!
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
The team safely arrived at Basecamp after a climb up Kala Patar. New altitude records for some! The Easter bunny must have come through camp because there were little chocolate eggs left around camp when we arrived (thanks Tucker). Most everyone is feeling better and enjoying the wonderful cooking of our BC cook Kumar. The team spent the day enjoying the views and a little exploring of the camp. Hot showers were had by all!
Tomorrow we'll make the trek back down to Pheriche and hopefully cross paths with RMI's Everest climbers.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Congrats to everyone on the team and esp. those
Team Waki members. Know you are glad to finally be there. Allie and MIssy- safe travels “down” - remember it is really not down! Elsie- may the force be with you as you power up Island Peak!
Posted by: Kathryn LeBey on 4/2/2013 at 5:14 pm
Congratulations on reaching Base Camp! I hope all of you are healthy and well. Weather still looks good. Enjoy the views, and be careful on the way down. Keith, everyone here is proud and in awe of you.
Hey everyone, this is JJ Justman with the Mexico Volcanoes climbing team. We are looking up at Ixta right now and the reason why is we are safely down from of successful summit of Ixta. The team did great today. Definitely a little tired but we had a beautiful day climbing to the top of Ixta. So wanted to give a shout out to all our family and friends. We're loading up the van and we're gonna have a little bit of R&R in Puebla for the next day and a half. Well deserved. But again, the team did absolutely outstanding. We'll touch base when we are in Puebla but everyone is safe and sound. Having some cokes and gonna get some fresh quesadillas on the way. But hope everyone's doing well back at home and we will talk with all of you very soon. Ciao from Mexico.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
RMI Guide JJ Justman after successful Ixta summit.
A bright, sunny, warm day lulled everyone to the cook tent for books, card games, and group crossword puzzles on our rest day. We slowly worked to organize gear that will stay in Basecamp, and that which will move up with us tomorrow to Camp 1. Everyone is excited to leave the unmistakable scent of mules behind and to begin the ascent of the upper mountain. We'll be up early tomorrow to break camp, eat breakfast, and work our way to Camp 1, most likely next to the Norwegian and French teams that we've climbed next to thus far.
We'll have more to report tomorrow!
Cheers,
RMI Guide Gabriel Barral
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Josh McDowell and Emma Lyddan reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 6 am PDT today. Josh reported a windy climb, so they didn't stay too long on the summit. The team is on the descent toward Camp Muir, and will be back at Rainier Basecamp to celebrate this afternoon.
The team arrived late last night and met formally for the first time over breakfast this morning. We enjoyed a great buffet for breakfast at our hotel and set out for an all day tour of Quito which included a visit to the physical equator. The team enjoyed visiting many old churches, government buildings, and private homes some of which dated back to the 1500's! The Spaniards founded the colonial city in 1538, so lots of the architecture is original and impressive. So much so that the entire old town neighborhood in Quito is a UNESCO world heritage site. We visited one church in particular with huge vaulted ceilings that were completely covered in baroque woodworking and gold leaf. Apparently over 52 kg of pure gold were used to decorate the church and show the power and glory of Rome. It's kind of crazy to think about how young many of the cities in the United States really are compared to other places in the world.
After the city tour we enjoyed a fritada lunch. It was a traditional Ecuadorian meal consisting of maize, fried pork, avocado, tomatoes, plantains, and potato soup. Delicious!
Later in the afternoon we took a trip to the physical equator where we enjoyed some fun experiments. There is no coriolis effect directly on the equator so water will drain from a basin straight down when on the equator, spin counter-clockwise four feet north, and clockwise four feet south! I didn't believe it until I saw it. It was also possible to balance fresh eggs vertically on a nail. Cool stuff. And all the while we were beginning our acclimitization because Quito sits at nearly 10,000 ft. Tomorrow we will head out to the teleferique and the volcano Pichincha for our first acclimatization hike, hopefully the weather cooperates!
Thanks to Dawn Kim for the photos in this post!
Hello everyone!
After our really long flights (nearly two days) the team arrived yesterday and had a early dinner and then off to bed to catch up on some much needed sleep.
Today we had our official team meeting and discussed the adventure ahead. After our meeting we headed out into Kathmandu to explore a little before we head into the mountains. Our first stop was to the Swayambunath, aka the Monkey Temple. It's a beautiful temple that sits above most of the city with views in all directions and is incredibly important to the Buddhist population here in the city. Next we paid a visit to the Pashupatinath Temple which is where the Hindu's bring their dead for cremation, and it was very surreal to be present while this ceremony was taking place. We then made a quick stop at the Boudhanath Stupa which is the second largest Stupa in the world.
After our city tour the team made our way back to our hotel and finalized our packing and finished the day off with a nice meal at the Famous Rum Doodle where they have saved autographs from all the climbers and Everest summiteers over the years: Sir Edmund Hillary, Reinhold Messner and many others.
It was a pretty full day to say the least. Everyone is doing great and looking forward to getting into the mountains and stretching their legs.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Elsie,
Betts has been in touch with Charlotte getting the scoop on your big adventure!.. We are off to Florida for 5 days with our foreign exchange student. Just a slightly different adventure!!
Wishing you safe travels and beautiful views from your gang in Denver!!
Posted by: Mary Talbot on 3/24/2013 at 6:20 pm
Casey & Team -
Looks like some fun days ahead. Looking forward to following your journey.
Happy New Year!Â
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If you are reading this post, there’s a good chance that you are preparing for a mountain climb, or at least considering one! At this time of year many people charge into fitness like a horse bolting from the starting gates. It’s tempting to start the New Year with resolutions to improve fitness, eat better, change habits, and many other goals.Â
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However, it is important to remember that the secret to athletic success is consistent and moderate effort. You may feel behind, your belt might be a little tight after the holidays and there are big goals nearing on the horizon. However, try and avoid the temptation to go crazy with fitness right now. By climbing a mountain, no matter the size, you’ve already chosen a highly motivating goal. Enjoy the training process and make it fun, positive, and healthy. Most of all, make it balanced; not too hard and not too easy; not too much and not too little. Each week, keep nudging your fitness forwards and you’ll make massive gains over the next months.Â
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In my opinion, you don’t need a resolution. You have a very real and tangible goal that will motivate you forwards long after many New Year’s Resolutions are forgotten. Congratulations on choosing that goal!
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If you are new to this blog, please take a look over the basics covered in the past few months, especially on planning your training and basic, key workouts like the Daily Dozen. I hope you’ve set aside time for some hiking and training this week to focus on your climb ahead. Enjoy the start to the New Year!
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We look forward to introducing ‘Fit To Climb The Sixteen Week Training Program for Mount Rainier’ over the next few weeks, starting in February and we will map out a weekly training plan each Monday as part of the Fit to Climb Program.Â
- John Colver
John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle, and is working on his second book, Fit to Climb - a 16 week Mount Rainier Fitness Program.
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts with John and other readers on the RMI Blog!
We went to bed with rain and clouds and were hopeful when the stars and upper mountain were out at 11pm when we woke up. After a quick bite to eat and coffee we finished packing our gear and headed up the rocky trail to access the glacier. Our first hour was warm and there was some lighting in the distance. With clear skies above we continued towards the Hermosa glacier and slowly were overtaken by clouds, the lighting was now flashing in all directions. The electrical storm was not the violent ground strikes accompanied by thunder that most people would associate with but rather lighting that was spread throughout the clouds. The visibility decreased and we made the decision to descend back to the hut rather then see if the system would move out. After we returned to the hut wet snow began falling and the upper mountain didn’t not give us another window to climb higher.
We are currently down safe and headed for Chilcabamba for the next 2 nights. While we all would have liked to climb Cayambe, the weather window didn’t cooperate. We are all eager for a different outcome on Cotopaxi in 3 nights.
Congrats to everyone on the team and esp. those
Team Waki members. Know you are glad to finally be there. Allie and MIssy- safe travels “down” - remember it is really not down! Elsie- may the force be with you as you power up Island Peak!
Posted by: Kathryn LeBey on 4/2/2013 at 5:14 pm
Congratulations on reaching Base Camp! I hope all of you are healthy and well. Weather still looks good. Enjoy the views, and be careful on the way down. Keith, everyone here is proud and in awe of you.
Posted by: Yuki Loritz on 4/2/2013 at 3:23 pm
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