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Team Checks in From Cayambe

Billy here checking in from the refugio, high on Cayambe. After exploring the amazing open-air market in Otovalo, complete with live meats, fresh produce, and an impressive offering from local artisans, we headed up to spend our first night above 15,000'. We dined on spaghetti a la bolognese with a balsamic viniagrette and crashed after a small nightcap of Cabernet. Ooh yeah, roughing it! And despite a slightly rough night everybody is acclimatizing really well, and also performed well during our mountaineering school this morning and afternoon. Right now we're all chilling back at the refugio gearing up for tonight's summit attempt. A summit talk and an early-to-bed evening will help us cope with our expected 11 pm wake up. If the weather and snowpack allow, the crew should be celebrating on the summit tomorrow morning! Wish us luck! Team Fuya Fuya (our elected team name) Thanks to Dawn Kim for the photos in this post!
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Ecuador Volcanoes: Cayambe Summit!

Hello everybody back home. This is Casey Grom checking in from the Ecuador expedition. Just wanted to let everyone know that we are standing on the summit of Cayambe right now! Beautiful day, a little chilly though. There's a slight breeze. We had a total of 10 climbers reach the summit... One climber and one guide turned around at about 18,200', just short of the summit. It's been a really long day. The route is in good shape, but it's just a really long route. Took us six and 1/2 hours for the first group and about 7 hours and 45 minutes for the second wave of climbers to reach the summit. Everyone's been doing great, pushing real hard and are pretty tired. We're going to take a few minutes get something to eat and drink and start making our way back down.......... We look forward to talking with you soon. RMI Guide Casey Grom


Casey Grom calls from the Cayambe summit!

On The Map

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Plan to Move Up

Our team had a great day today, putting in a cache at 13,700' at Windy Corner. We returned to a day time schedule, and enjoyed a warm and sunny day today. The weather is beautiful here at the 11,000' camp tonight; there is blue sky above, clouds below, and no wind. We're all in our sleeping bags and looking forward to a good night's rest. If the weather is good tomorrow morning we are planning to move our camp up to 14,200'. We are feeling ready and are looking forward to the challenge of tomorrow. That's it for now...time to get some zzzz... RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Carry to 13,500’

Hi all! We are back at 11,000' camp after a successful and gorgeous carry to cache gear at 13,500 ft, just past Windy Corner. When we woke this morning it looked like Windy Corner might live up to it's name; banners of snow were flying high off the nearby peaks from a strong north wind. We had a great smoked salmon breakfast and dragged our feet in camp for a bit to see if the wind would die, and it played ball! The carry was warm and calm, and the group moved great, happy to be free of our sleds, and to have lighter loads. The weather forecast is sounding stellar for the next handful of days. We're going to make a game time decision tomorrow morning whether to move to the 14,000' camp or stay one more day at 11,000'. We'll let you know! That's all for now; we're going to crawl into our warm down bags and get some shut eye. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and the crew

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sounds like a great time!  Please give my best to Nick.
Pam

Posted by: Pam on 5/17/2012 at 7:35 pm

Keep going.

Posted by: Richard Coleman on 5/17/2012 at 7:06 pm


North Cascades: Walter & Team Reach Camp on Mt. Shuksan

Hello from the Sulphide Glacier on Mount Shuksan! The team and I are at camp, located at 6,000' on the Sulphide Glacier. We had a mix of rain, sun, mist and fog on our hike to camp today. It's currently overcast but no precipitation while we get ready to eat dinner. The hike took us 6 1/2 hours to get here and everyone is doing well. Tomorrow's itinerary includes practicing some mountaineering skills to prepare for the upcoming summit bid. RMI Guide Mike Walter
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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb led by Coppolillo & Bennett reach summit

Although Paradise remains in a bit of a cloud this morning, it is sunny and clear above Camp Muir. The Five Day Climb August 21 - 25 led by RMI Guides Henry Coppolillo and Mike Bennett reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  The teams found a bit of new snow on the upper mountain but the route was in good shape and the weather is beautiful, so they had a great climb to top. They started their descent from the crater rim around 7:20 am. They will return to Camp Muir for a quick break and continue down to Paradise. Their program will conclude this afternoon.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jeff Miller and team we are super proud of you !  What an accomplishment to achieve in your life !  Way to lead the wolf pack !  Gus has the drinks ready ! 

Posted by: Gus on 8/25/2024 at 8:34 am

Congratulations!! Way to go team!!
So proud of you Jeff ❤️

Posted by: Jaimie on 8/25/2024 at 8:33 am


Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Reach Summit!

Sunday, August 13, 2023 - 7:24 am PT

We had an extremely nice day for going to the top of Africa. Waking at 11 last night it was dead calm and when we unzipped the tents and looked out, the lights of Moshi and a hundred other towns and villages in Tanzania were winking up at us.  The ever-present cloud deck wasn't present. Overhead, the Milky Way dazzled us.  We ate a quick "breakfast" and got climbing by midnight. The cold temps were a challenge, but less so without wind. We marched up through the night, taking quick hourly breaks in the lava, gravel and pumice.  We were at Stella Point on the crater rim when the sun rose at 6:35 and magically it was still calm on the mountaintop.  It was a beautiful walk in the morning light over to Uhuru, the summit of Kilimanjaro.  We celebrated up top and took plenty of pictures. We'd just begun walking down when one of the remaining summit glaciers calved with a thunderous crash into a pool of meltwater. We were stunned by the action, but also by the fact that a sizable pool of unfrozen water existed at 19,000 ft. We slid down the rock scree of our ascent route, reaching high camp just after 10 AM. Our staff sang and danced to give us a memorable and fun welcome. We finished the day with a rugged hike down to Mweka Camp at 10,000 ft, arriving at 3:30 PM under sunny skies. The team is getting set for a final night on the mountain. Our team did well, placing seven of nine climbers on top and crucially nine of nine safely down afterward. Our support team blew our minds with the quality and quantity of help they provided as we pursued our dream summit. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

 

Sunday, August 13, 2023 - 1:10 AM PT

A quick check in from RMI Guide Dave Hahn with the photo above to let us know the team reached the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro at 7:15 am local time.  The team has safely descended back to High Camp, Barafu, as of 10:15 am local time.  They will continue their descent to Mweka Camp, their final mountain camp of the trip.

Congratulations team!

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Go Team! You are all rock stars! The pictures are incredible. Allison- I need a slide show when you get home!

Posted by: Anne Walsh on 8/15/2023 at 1:41 pm

Congratulations on such a huge accomplishment! So proud of you!

Posted by: Andy Feingold on 8/14/2023 at 6:30 pm


Aconcagua: Smith & Team Settling In at 18,000’

On the road again! We said goodbye to Aconcagua Camp 1 today and hello to Camp 2. It was a beautiful morning for breaking down camp, with virtually no wind and the sun shining down on us. As we waited for the porters to come help carry some gear, we saw a furry critter scamper across the slopes above. Our guess is it was a fox. Its always exciting see wildlife. After jamming out to tunes in our respective earbuds, we arrived at camp. Camp was a lot quieter from when we left it on our carry day. Other teams moved to high camp, creating space for us. Once again we set up camp and began nesting in our new home. Summit day is just around the corner, but first we will do a carry to high camp tomorrow and rest the following day. The air is a little colder at our new camp. The zipper on our sleeping bags will go a tad higher tonight to keep in the warmth.

Happy friday everyone,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

On The Map

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Doing great Pops! Wonderful to see your progress and a picture of you! Keep up the good work! We love you!
Love, Noel, Xander, and Nora

Posted by: Noel Imfeld on 1/18/2020 at 1:42 pm

Keep on Trucking Sue!  You are going to nail this one!

Posted by: Russ Frederickson on 1/18/2020 at 7:25 am


Mountaineering Training | Mindful Movement

As a skiing and climbing guide, athlete, and yoga instructor, I am continually impressed by the correlation between success in the mountains and a regular yoga or meditation practice. In my personal experience, by taking time each day to completely focus my attention on simple movements in conjunction with controlled breathing, even for a just a short period of time, I have found that I can dramatically increase my ability to handle a higher mental stress load and consciously reign in a respiratory-system-gone-rogue.

The primary intention behind a yoga practice is the alignment of a series of movements with the coordination of the breath. Beyond the poses, aside from the stretching, before the flow, and without regard to the brand of clothing you choose to wear or the space in which you practice, is the synchronization of intentional movements with focused and controlled breathing. That is the essence of yoga.

One of my favorite quotes is by Sharon Gannon: “You cannot do yoga. Yoga is your natural state. What you can do are yoga exercises, which may reveal to you areas where you are resistant in your natural state”. Instead of hand-eye coordination, think body-breath coordination.

This training allows the individual the ability to more easily and calmly focus on a specific task and execute difficult movements with precision—especially, and perhaps most importantly—when pushing towards exhaustion.

The goal of starting a mindful movement practice is in taking this basic principle and applying it to any activity of your choosing.

I understand yoga is not for everyone. Personally, I love the quiet space, the dance of a well-sequenced vinyasa flow, and in the winter months I crave the warmth and full body lymphatic cleanse of a heated studio; they are always significantly cozier than the mid-January temperature of my 1920’s craftsman and warm my core after a day of skiing far better than even the highest, most overworked setting of my Subaru's seat-heating capabilities. That being said, I know plenty of guides and world-class athletes who firmly believe that yoga—of any sort—is not, and never will be, for them.

The secret is that these individuals find other activities with which to strengthen their mental game and incorporate mindful movement. Biking, running, swimming, pilates, even those post-work hikes with a heavy pack, all provide the opportunity to spend a few moments really thinking about and tuning in to your body positioning, your motor patterns, the rate and quality of your breath, all while tuning out the external static of life.

So my challenge for you in writing this blog post, if not to inspire you to rush off and attend the nearest yoga class, is to move through a few minutes of your next workout focused on not just exercising, but moving with intention, breathing in coordination with the efforts of your activity, and turning off the music in an effort to quiet your mind and direct your attention entirely to the task at hand. By practicing mindful movement in your daily tasks and familiar workouts, you will increase and strengthen your ability to use those same techniques to lower your respiratory rate and remain calm, thus allowing you to be more relaxed and move more efficiently when confronted with new and/or difficult tasks in an unfamiliar or uncomfortable environment for a longer period of time: situations much like those found on Mt. Rainier and other alpine objectives around the world.

_____

Solveig Waterfall is an AMGA Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide and has been working professionally in the mountains for 12 years. She guides in Alaska as well as the continental U.S., Ecuador, Mexico, and Argentina.  She also teaches backcountry skiing programs and ski mountaineering courses for RMI. Outside of guiding, she instructs yoga and fitness classes designed to complement an active life outdoors.

Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

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Solveig
I have been taking yoga classes for the past 10 or 11 years now I don’t know perhaps longer and I can seriously identify with all the techniques Strank’s and benefits that you ascribe to taking yoga classes with regard to clarity of thought power of intention and overall mental strength conditioning as you delineate the Power of Yoga elementals.

Possibly the greatest payoff to the sports enthusiast is the concept of correlation of each of the aspects you point out into an efficient unified focused and energized state of mind!

These Very qualities derived from my own Baptiste Power Yoga practice have been an important element of whatever success I’ve had in Mountaineering, and many other strenuous, challenging and sometimes dangerous pursuits

I’d like to share a specific example from a recent Guided Assent of Mt Baker, North Face with RMI August 25-27 2019

This Climb was considerably more challenging than my previous RMI Guided Assents of Rainiers DC Route or Kautz route, which I did with you Solvieg in 2017

I was not aware of just how much more challenging it was going to be

As our 6 person team got higher and higher on the mountain, the route became steeper and steeper until we were Climbing vertical ice cliffs!

The Glaciers were pretty bare and we had to retrace our steps several times as what was an uninterrupted route up the Mountain had become a very broken route up the mountain…

What all this absolutely reinforced was the essential Need to Completely Trust the Skill of the Guides and execution of ALL instructions from the guides immediately and without question!

Absolute Resolution of Focus and consistent galvanization of thought to decision to action!!

Every Single step, Every single ice pick thrust… spacing of turns, rope slack, managing challenges, breaks, managing each emerging concern as they arise…

One of the strongest contributors to success on that kind of Expedition, on that Kind of Mountain for me was the years of Learning and practicing the Yoga strengths and tools you so eloquently pointed out

Looking forward to another Rainier Assent in 2021 and hopefully a Denali Assent 2022

Posted by: Ken Tessier on 3/3/2020 at 7:36 pm

Beautiful article!  You inspire me.

Posted by: Patti sandow on 10/12/2017 at 9:11 pm


Aconcagua: Justman & Team Check in from Camp 1

Audio 1: Hello everyone at the RMI bloggers following Team One on Aconcagua. We are happy to report that we are up at Camp One. We actually had to make our camp a little higher. It was a little busy lower down at Camp One, but we have the upper camp at 16,500' all to ourselves. As a matter of fact this camp is so nice, we have a sit down toilet. So, the entire team is doing real well. It's a little bit of work to get up here, but everyone's feeling great. The agenda right now is to make sure that tents are buttoned down for heavy winds. However, right now we have very light winds... We're going to get a hot breakfast... (satellite connection lost) Audio 2: Hey, this is J.J. again with Team One on Aconcagua. Just to let everyone out there know. We have a lot of gear so we kind of thinned our communications down. We just have a SAT phone up here so we are going to be giving our blog via voice with Google voice and it'll be transcribed. So it may cut out, we'll try to do our best to give you some entertaining updates but everyone is just doing fantastic up here at 16,500'. We'll talk with you guys tomorrow. Everyone says hello to family and friends, and please follow along. We'll touch base tomorrow. Ciao from Argentina Camp One. RMI Guide JJ Justman


JJ Justman from Aconcagua Camp 1.


JJ continued from Aconcagua Camp 1.

On The Map

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Robert make sure you say hi to God when you reach the top for me.  Can’t wait to celebrate upon your return. Hang in there!

Posted by: pat ward on 12/12/2012 at 4:03 pm

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