Mark Tucker here calling from Chukung. I'm not sure which one I like better Phakhing or Chukung. Pretty tight-laced. The teams in great shape up here. It was a nice about two and half hour about 2000-foot gain hike from Dingboche. It was just enough to get the blood flowing and breathing level up and still making that acclimatization effort. It's going real well, real happy with how the team is doing. The weather socked in once we got here to our tea house, and perfect timing for that. We hung around and had some food and fuel and did fine there. And then just in time it cleared up for perfect views and photos of fresh snow, on the white, tall Himalayan peaks that are surrounding us. We met up with our local guide, Perba and assistant/cook, Raz. We got a couple of nice guys. They helped out with Linden so they got all the recent information for the route, so that is great to have as well. Couple of nice guys and so thankful to have them with the team. So back in 1953 was the first ascent of Island Peak. It was made by a prestigious team. They were training in preparation for an ascent of Everest. One of those guys was Tenzing Norgay, who accompanied Kili on that famous day. So it makes you wonder if things go well here for Kim and John, could this be a stepping stone for the Big E? Maybe next year? I guess time will tell.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Hello everyone,
The entire team has safely arrived here in Quito after our long flights from the states. Our late arrivals didn't allow for much other than checking into the hotel and getting a few hours of shut-eye.
We woke to a beautiful day here in Ecuador and had a wonderful breakfast with a nice variety of eggs, sausages, fried plantains, breads, yogurts, and freshly squeezed juices. After washing everything down with plenty of coffee the group met for some introductions and an overview of what's to come over the next few days. We also discussed how to be a savvy tourist while traveling abroad to help keep us from any unwanted situations.
Our plan for the day was to explore a little of this colonial city and visit the equator for which this country is named for. We started off with a visit to the equator where we saw with our own eyes how water spins counter-clockwise in the northern hemisphere and then just a few feet away spins clockwise in the southern hemisphere. Seeing, truly is believing!
After the equator we headed back to town to visit the Panecillo Hill, which has a 135-foot tall statue of the Virgin Mary made up of over 7,000 pieces of aluminum and a beautiful panoramic view of this city with more than 2 million people living in it. We then headed into the old town of Quito to visit the many churches and cathedrals that have been here since the conquistadors arrived in 1535. We visited the San Francisco de Quito, church of La Campania and even had a brief stop at the Presidential Palace. It was a day rich in history and full of amazing views that was enjoyed by all. We finished the day with a wonderful meal and are now
headed off to bed.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Today we carried food, fuel & a few personal items to Camp 2 at 18,000'. Pardon the typo of elevation yesterday (we had it 17,000'). We had a clear morning to begin the day. Heavy snow began to fall with a light breeze while we were putting together our cache. The team got back to camp and is waiting for a break in the snow. This weather pattern is forecasted until the 9th when strong winds are expected for the 10th & 11th. We rest tomorrow and hope the storm abates.
It did not seem like it was going to happen today. We woke up groggily to find ourselves in the middle of a small tent village. The remaining teams on the mountain -six guided groups- were now all collected at Kahiltna Base Camp, waiting to fly out. None of us had made the top -the season end was just a nonstop progression of storms. Including the one that cloaked us in cloud and light snow for much of the day. We had already eaten a mountain dinner and were getting ready for another night in tents when airplanes started coming in through holes in the clouds. We packed sleeping bags, tents, pots, and pans… all in an instant and loaded into K2 Aviation’s beautiful Otters. And at 9:30PM we lifted off the glacier and caught the red eye into Talkeetna. Eventually we were out of the snow and ice and rock and flying effortlessly over impossibly green landscapes.
We have got a day left of drying and sorting gear and traveling, but tonight we shower and sleep in beds!
Great going and thanks for the daily updates -wow, what a journey. There’s always 2022! Way to go Matt!
Posted by: Margie McEttrick-Maloney on 7/11/2021 at 5:49 pm
Thanks & best to Dave , team leaders for everything & to ur whole team —-Sanjeev felt safe & had loads of fun w/ y’all !!! Even tho he cant wait to share lots of wonderful stories , I know he will miss y’all lots !!!
A thankyou to the lord for bringing y’all down safely , so y’all can return to beds, etc :) !!!
& Cheers to many more climbs & to reaching summits in the future years !!! Godbless & Keep smiling !!!
Another early morning, another attempt to get through the Khumbu Icefall. Thwarted. We were still hoping to accomplish a recon/carry and so I headed out with our Sherpa climbing team at 4:30 AM. As we started, the Sherpa teams ahead of us formed a solid parade of headlights, snaking up through the glacier in the darkness. We made fine progress though, easily passing our highpoint from the other day. That last time the weather was poor, and this time it was perfect, so we could see everything we needed and wanted to see about the climbing route. Our luck ran out near the top of the technical difficulties when we skidded to a stop at 7 AM at the tail end of a monumental traffic jam. We spent 90 minutes inching upward, stomping our feet to stay warm (we were still in deep and cool shadows), and alternately eyeballing the ice towers hanging over our heads and the nearby site of last year's tragic avalanche. Finally, with perhaps a hundred Sherpas at full stop between ourselves and a fairly difficult wall climb, we determined that we'd pushed our luck far enough. We descended, cached the load at the icefall's midpoint and got ourselves out of the line of fire and on our way back to Basecamp. Sherpas and climbers did eventually make camp one and even camp two on this day, but the missions took perhaps three times as long as they should have, with much of that time spent at risk... Not for us. We reached sunny and safe Base Camp shortly after JJ Justman had departed with our team for a Pumori Camp One hike. The route needs more work and we conveyed this idea as best we were able to the Icefall Doctors and their administrators. In general terms, it takes a safer path than the routes of recent years, but more work needs to be done and more ladders need to be fixed in order to handle the Sherpa traffic, let alone the less skilled foreign climbers who will soon hit the climb in great numbers.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Don’t we go to the mountains to get away from traffic jams! You exhibit that all important combination of dogged determination with prudence that is so important up there. Glad the weather is moderating, which I hope will facilitate more progress soon. A special hello to J J and thanks for the birthday greeting to my son, Zac (Zeke).
Best wishes to all for a safe, successful ascent.
Posted by: Everett Moran on 4/21/2015 at 7:45 am
Glad you are a safety guy. Hate to think of the frontline team in the risk zone while awaiting a traffic jam. Be well. Sending my best. xo
It's another great day on safari! Right now we're in Tarangire National Park and the animals are out in full force. There have been tons of elephants of course as this is 'the garden of the elephants'. In addition to the animals there are tons if really cool Baobab trees. We're all having a blast on the penultimate day of our trip.
RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Peter Whittaker
Friday, May 31, 2013
Excitement, trepidation, anxiousness and a whole slew of other emotions ran through the team last night and this morning as we prepared to make our carry up the fixed ropes to 16,200' and beyond. How would we do on terrain steeper than any most of us have yet tackled? How would we do with the altitude? Everyone had similar questions that only time would answer.
Our day started in the early morning before the sun hit camp. Temps were probably around 0-5 F. But we knew we wanted to avoid any traffic jams on the fixed ropes if possible. And an early start would help insure a smooth ascent.
An hour and a half and 1,200' above camp the sun finally warmed our bodies. It amazes me still how in a five minute period it can go from bitingly cold to almost sweaty hot. With the fixed lines above we were psyched that we would have warm conditions to deal with them.
We all progressed well up the lines, so well that everyone wanted to continue further up the West Buttress to make our cache.
With climbing conditions on the ridge in great shape our progress was good, and before we knew it we were less than an hour from 17,200' camp. Although a challenge to climb at that altitude, everyone was up to going all the way to camp. Most people find just getting up to 16,200' challenge enough. But around 3:00pm we were there!
What made this day so especially memorable was the fact that this was the first time in my twenty three Mt. McKinley expeditions that the entire team had made it all the way to 17,200' camp.
We're back at 14,200' camp now and are looking forward to another well deserved rest day. After dinner we enjoyed reading all your blog replies. Thanks so much for all the support!
Good night from 14,000'
RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah
Monica and team, I hope the weather cooperates tomorrow! I’ve been calling in all my favors to Mother Nature.. Hopefully it’ll work! I’m so happy for you all to have made it to 17,200, now all on to the summit! Good luck!!! Miss you! XOXO
We woke early this morning, had breakfast, and packed up camp, ready to move to 14,200' before the sun had hit our tents. But the winds up high were too strong for my liking. We repitched our tents to seek shelter from the wind and waited for a few hours for the winds to abate. Unfortunately, the winds up high continued and a mean looking lenticular cloud had formed over Windy Corner, where we were headed. By noon we made the decision to stay in camp another day and avoid the risks of getting caught in a windstorm high in the mountains of Alaska.
So we wait another day. Such is expedition climbing. The weather forecast looks good for the next few days, and we're confident that tomorrow will be the day to move camp. We'll let you know how it goes.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Mike, I went to the book store and asked the clerk where the self help section was. She said she could help me but that would defeat the purpose. Then I tried to buy a camo jacket but I couldn’t find one. I bought a vest . If I didn’t have arms it would be a jacket. Extra medium. Be safe. Excited to climb with you again. John
Posted by: John on 5/20/2013 at 7:37 pm
Good call. Hunker down and get back to some sport eating. I’m on Otdoor Ed until Thursday night but I’ll try to shoot off a weather report before I go. Be safe. xoxo
RMI Guides Tyler Reid, Sean Collon and a team of clients spent the last five days learning the art of Ski Mountaineering. The team explored Mount Rainier's incredible winter snowpack and accessible but challenging technical terrain. The team spent the days on the mountain learning and practicing a variety of ski specific technical skills. The trip culminated with an ascent to Camp Muir (10,060') and the team will enjoy an exciting 5,000' ski descent today.
Hola from Casa de Piedras! Today's weather was a total contrast to yesterday's, as we wound our way further up the Vacas Valley. We woke this morning to clear skies that turned to sun as it cleared the canyon walls. It made for a pleasant walk as we covered the nine miles or so from camp last night. A light breeze helped to keep things from getting too hot.
The trail crosses the river over a small foot bridge immediately out of camp. Once on the opposite bank, it alternates between following the river bank, and rising over a chain of small bluffs. Casa de Piedras is located at the mouth of the Relinchos Valley and river. Tomorrow we will cross the Vacas, and leave this valley behind as we ascend the Relinchos to base camp at 14,000 feet. Everyone is in great spirits (it's amazing the power that big orb in the sky has) and sends their best. Tomorrow we'll touch base from Plaza Argentina!
Cheers,
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer and Team
The mountains were his masters. They rimmed in life. They were the cup of reality, beyond growth, beyond struggle and death. They were his absolute unity in the midst of eternal change.”
― Thomas Wolfe, Look Homeward, Angel
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Lucy, Corell, and Elsie…HAVE A GREAT TRIP!!!! Can’t wait to hear about your adventures and fun!
-DM
Posted by: Dana Marie Buchanan on 7/25/2011 at 8:27 am
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