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Elevation: 9,500'

The objective for the day was Kahiltna Dome. We woke up early and quickly prepared. An hour's walk took us across the glacier to the first hill, and warm morning sun. Unfortunately several stretches into the climb we encountered challenging conditions and decided to head back to our camp at 9,500 ft. The team broke camp in an impressive hour and a half and then made the 9-mile trip back to basecamp. Throughout the walk back, we saw lenticular clouds forming hanging over peaks in the area. Despite the sunny weather, they let us know that keeping our Gore-tex in the top of our packs was a good idea. RMI Guide Jason Thompson

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Make Most of their Talkeetna Time

May 11, 2012

Posted by: Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer

Elevation: 358'

We spent the day waiting for our weather window to fly on to the glacier, but two feet of snow at Base Camp last night and continuing snow through today have so far prevented us from making it on. Rather than idly twiddling our thumbs, we decided to make the best of a warm dry hanger and practice our crevasse rescue skills and self rescue systems. Everyone is feeling better about their systems after a lot of practice and playing with knots and tricks. We still have one and a half hours to go before the planes are grounded for the night, increasingly it is looking like tomorrow morning is more likely for flying. Hopefully our next post will come from there glacier! Best, RMI Guide Peter Van Deventer Unfortunately the weather did not cooperate with us today, and we were unable to fly in to Base Camp once again. While it seems as though the weather is improving, the conditions were not conducive to flying; no planes left Talkeetna today with the intention of trying to land at Base Camp. We took advantage of the down time today and did some dry-land review of crevasse rescue. There were also some pretty competitive games of ping pong going on this afternoon in the Hangar as we waited on standby for the weather to clear. We’re all eager to fly, but we understand that climbing Denali requires patience. Hopefully we get a break tomorrow and can fly in to Base Camp and establish ourselves on the mountain. In the meantime, we’re enjoying Talkeetna. Cheers, RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Aconcagua Expedition: Trek Camp 2

February 5, 2012

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Leon Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 10,550'

Day two on the trail was another splitter day with a great breeze to keep the heat at bay. Our team rolled out of camp at about nine this morning and enjoyed a great stretch of trail into the next camp at Casa de Piedra. Currently we're lounging riverside and soaking up some afternoon sun. Although everybody's chilling now, our first glimpse of the mountain today was a reminder of the prospective climb ahead and all of the hard work that entails. We'll check in again tomorrow from Aconcagua basecamp at Plaza Argentina after we climb up through the Relinchos Valley... RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Leon Davis, & the team

Mt. Elbrus: Waterfall & Team Safe and Sound at Basecamp

September 2, 2013

Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Pete Van Deventer

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside

Elevation: 8,300'

Hi, this is Seth. We're all back down at basecamp. It was a bummer to walk down today without the summit but that's the way it goes sometimes. Everyone was in good spirits even though we didn't top out. The weather has just not cooperated with us for a summit bid. We were never able to reach high camp and that forced us to try to go for the top from Camp 1. Even then the winds pushed us back after just a few hours. Like I said, that's the way it goes sometimes. The important thing is that we've all descended safe and sound. We have some great stories that is for sure. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Team -

BUMMER !!

I just returned from Burning Man where we battle wind and dust instead of wind and snow. I’m sorry to hear that Elbrus has been throwing up roadblocks for you guys. Sounds totally different than when I was there in July. St. Petersburg is a fabulous city. You’ll all love it.

Seth - Looking forward to seeing you and Dave down at Vinson in 3 months.

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 9/3/2013 at 12:31 pm

James and team

I hope you have a wonderful time in St. P!

I am rEally looking forward to hearing your stories, learning more about the partcular challenges you faced and safely addressed, and hearing about your next mega-goal and adventure. Your couageous acts and actvities are very inspiring and motivational to me!!!

Travel safely,

Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 9/3/2013 at 4:03 am

Mt Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Update

February 7, 2013

Posted by: Adam Knoff, JJ Justman

Elevation: 11,500'

Today our winter team made it to 11,500 feet on Mt. Rainier! It was tough going at the end. We had thigh deep snow and we decided to make the safe decision to turn around. The weather is beautiful but the conditions are tough. However, that didn't stop the team from having a great day up high. It's a unique feeling being up here in the winter. We are all alone and we are enjoying Rainier's pristine beauty that can only be enjoyed in winter. RMI Guide Jason Thompson is now giving a lecture in snow science and avalanche awareness. That's all for now. RMI Guide JJ Justman

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome! HIGH FIVE, FRANK AND TIM!! I cannot wait to hear all of the stories. You guys look great out there. XOXOXOXO Jenna

Posted by: Jenna on 2/8/2013 at 12:37 pm

WOOOOHOOOO!!! Rock on guys!! **Dan- I can’t wait to see you again, I missed you so much! Hope you got some majestic pictures ready for me; I got beer ready for you <3 Stay safe out there.

Posted by: Roz on 2/7/2013 at 9:29 pm

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Down We Go

June 17, 2012

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Eric Frank

Elevation: 11,200'

We awoke today to subzero temperatures at 17k camp and are now enjoying the thick air at 11k camp. After a quick breakfast, the team packed their belongings and headed downward. Despite some fatigue from our successful summit bid yesterday, the team safely negotiated the descent to 14k camp. There, the team was met by another RMI team. Jake Beren and team topped off our bottles with water and our stomachs with warm quesadillas. After this hour long break we headed down to 11k camp. While the air was thick and warm, Denali was quick to remind us that we aren't out of the woods yet. While snow fell and wind blew around us we consolidated our left over meats and cheeses for a quesadilla smorgasbord. We enjoyed these tasty morsels until we were full, then ate some more. Then we had dessert. We are now snuggled into our sleeping bags, staying warm and hoping to fly out tomorrow. While we are all set to walk to the runway, the weather is not ripe for a speedy flight to Talkeetna. We are still at the mercy of the big one, Denali. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to JB and the whole team for a strong and safe climb! Your friends here at AMC looking forward to hearing all about.

Posted by: Rick on 6/19/2012 at 9:52 am

Hope you had a long and profound sleep for a significant recuperation. It should help for the descent. Wishing you a smooth return. Hélène

Posted by: Hélène Larocque-Nolin on 6/17/2012 at 7:45 pm

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Return to Airstrip Ready for Return Flight

June 1, 2023

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Tatum Whatford, Henry Coppolillo

Elevation: 7,300'

Thursday, June 1, 2023 - 8:25 am PT

We made it to base camp! We had a smooth, though sticking with the theme of the trip, pretty white walk out to Base camp. We got in in the early afternoon relieved to be done pulling our sleds and shouldering heavy packs. The clouds didn't promise much for flying out, but we stayed hopeful and lounged on our packs and sleds. We had left ourselves some celebratory materials and we enjoyed those. A few clearing trends and blue skies gave us hope a few times but by 8pm we accepted that we would have another night in tents and set then up, made a last dinner of burritos, and crawled back into sleeping bags. We are happy to have done our part now. No more packs or sleds, just waiting for weather to cooperate. And it is so much warmer, and easier to breathe down here!

Hopefully weather let's us fly off soon!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

Mt. Rainier: Kautz Seminar Turns Due to Route Conditions

July 1, 2021

Posted by: Alex Halliday, Henry Coppolillo, Abby Westling

The Expedition Skills Seminar on the Kautz Glacier has been training on the mountain all week in warm temperatures. This morning was their summit attempt. Due to a significant amount of icefall on the route, the team had to abort their summit bid. The team is safely working their way back to camp and are descending from the mountain today.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Did the Wilson still go, or did you have to go up the fan?

Posted by: Joe on 7/1/2021 at 5:24 pm

Good effort to the team! Any comment on where the icefall was and where they decided to turnaround?

Posted by: Shawn Rezendes on 7/1/2021 at 9:43 am

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Turns Due to Conditions

May 9, 2021

Posted by: Mike King, James Bealer, Henry Coppolillo, Alan Davis, Chase Halbert, Matias Francis

Elevation: 11,600'

RMI Guides Mike King and Alan Davis led their Four Day Climb teams to 11,600' today before being turned back by new snow and poor conditions. RMI Guide Alan Davis reported drifting snow up to 2 feet in places. The teams departed from Camp Muir around 8 am and will conclude their program at Rainier BaseCamp today.

Mt. Rainier: June 1st Summit Climb Update

June 1, 2014

Posted by: Kel Rossiter, Mark Falender