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Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak: Climbing Kala Patar

April 2, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Hey RMI this is Linden Mallory calling from the Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak Team. I am calling from Gorak Shep up here at about 17,000’ along the edges of the Khumbu Glacier. This is the last town before we reach Basecamp tomorrow. It’s an absolutely gorgeous night here in the Himalaya. We had a wonderful day today we left Lobuche early this morning and walked up the valley crossing over the Tonkhu Glacier which is a little tributary glacier from the main Khumbu Glacier. We arrived into Gorak Shep about mid morning. Our main objective for the day was a climb of Kala Patar. It’s across the valley from Everest about 18,500’. After arriving in Gorak Shep we grabbed some tea, filled our water bottles and set off. The team climbed phenomenally well. It was really quite impressive. All the time we spent acclimatizing certainly paid off in spades. We got up to Kala Patar by mid day and we just had incredible views across the valley of Everest. We could see the summit, Hillary Step, the south summit, all the way down to the South Col. Looking down on the upper portion of the Lhotse face. We could also see over to Lolok Pass over to Xingatzi which is sitting in Tibet. It was pretty neat to be able to see over the boarder. We could also see down the valley toward Ama Dablam and the peaks that we walked by the first few days of our trek. So after hanging out up there for a little bit we motored back down to our tea house here in Gorak Shep and spent the afternoon just hanging out and resting and adjusting to the altitude. 17,000’ is definitely pretty high and we are all feeling it. Again the team is doing really well and we are all having a great time. The plan tomorrow is to leave Gorak Shep and walk the final couple of miles into Basecamp and set up shop there for the next couple of nights. We will try to push out some photos. The connection this high up the valley is spotty at best but I’ll do my best to get some photos and more write ups out to you guys. If not we’ll check in tomorrow from Basecamp. Take care.

RMI Guide Linden Mallory checks in from Gorak Shep

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Hey Bill and Sarah,

Lisa gave me this link to your blog. Really enjoying following along. It brings back great memories of my trek into base camp. I gave Lisa a prayer flag that I brought back from Nepal to hang at your house until your return. I’ll be praying to the weather gods for good weather for an ascent. Keep safe and warm. Can’t wait to hear more.

Clay

Posted by: Clay Rolader on 4/3/2011 at 5:41 am

Hi Tim! I have finally been found by the chest cold that everyone has had. Papa and I are a few days into it. I am totally living through your notes and pictures! I can imagine the cold clear air as you take each rest step. Sounds like you are with a wonderful group! I just adore Linden’s descriptions. I almost feel as if I were there. Please thank him for that. Honey, I love you and miss your sweet face every day. I go in the closet and smell your shirts! Pathetic, I know! I don’t care! I will be paying my bills sometime today, and then looking at making your boat and building payments. Every one is making this as easy for me as possible. Tom has checked in, skip and cass have both been here. You are missed! I love you! A&F Deb

Posted by: Deb McLaughlin on 4/2/2011 at 10:21 am

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Aconcagua: RMI Team Moves to Camp 3

January 21, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 19,600'

This is Gabi and the RMI Aconcagua expedition checking in from Camp 3 (19600'). This morning we started at Camp 2 with an early breakfast. We started our ascent at 10:20 am and after 3 hours and 20 minutes of hard work we arrived at our high camp. The weather this morning was awesome, no wind and warm temperatures (well, as warm as it could get at 18,000'). During the ascent clouds moved in and a cold breeze cooled us. At our arrival to Camp 3 a little bit of weather added some spice to our day. It snowed half a inch, but for a good 15 minutes it looked like it was going to keep snowing all night. Current conditions are better. It is still cloudy, but it has stopped snowing and it looks like we are going to have a clear night. Our plan is to wake up early tomorrow morning (sometime between 3 and 5 am) and we will check the weather. If the weather is as the forecast is calling, we'll have breakfast and start our summit attempt !

Everybody is very excited for tomorrow and the stokemeter is very high (8) at Camp 3! We'll be in touch tomorrow. Cheers, RMI Guide Gabriel Barral and the Aconcagua expedition

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Lisa: Mary and I have been following your daily progress and envying you every step of the way! When you read this you are most likely down from the summit. Congratulations on your accomplishment. We are anticipating seeing all your pictures.

Love, Jud and Mary

Posted by: Jud on 1/22/2011 at 10:54 am

Frere Jacque,

I am vicariously enjoying your grand adventure. See you at the top!

Posted by: Andy Lee on 1/22/2011 at 9:41 am

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Denali Expedition: Walter and Team Waiting on Weather to Move Up

May 29, 2021

Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Saturday, May 29, 2021 - 2:54pm PT

Strong winds and lots of blowing snow have us tent bound today. The fortresses of snow walls we built yesterday are paying huge dividends, protecting the thin pieces of nylon between us and the elements. We can hear the winds roaring over the West Buttress above us, a sound that evokes images of violent ocean waves crashing onshore.

Fortunately life in our tents is relatively serene and warm.

We’re hoping for better weather in the wake of this storm; we’ll figure out our next move then. When will ‘then’ be ‘now’? Soon.

RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team

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Gearing up for some good stories :) Sending good vibes for some calmer skies!

Posted by: Margaret on 5/30/2021 at 5:50 pm

Theme song for today:

WHATEVER IT TAKES!

Falling too fast to prepare for this
Tripping in the world could be dangerous
Everybody circling, it’s vulturous
Negative, nepotist
Everybody waiting for the fall of man
Everybody praying for the end of times
Everybody hoping they could be the one

I was born to run, I was born for this
Whip, whip
Run me like a racehorse
Pull me like a ripcord
Break me down and build me up
I wanna be the slip, slip
Word upon your lip, lip
Letter that you rip, rip
Break me down and build me up
Whatever it takes
‘Cause I love the adrenaline in my veins
I do whatever it takes
‘Cause I love how it feels when I break the chains
Whatever it takes
Yeah, take me to the top I’m ready for
Whatever it takes
‘Cause I love the adrenaline in my veins
I do what it takes

Always had a fear of being typical
Looking at my body feeling miserable
Always hanging on to the visual
I wanna be invisible
Looking at my years like a martyrdom
Everybody needs to be a part of ‘em
Never be enough, I’m the prodigal son

I was born to run, I was born for this
Whip, whip
Run me like a racehorse
Pull me like a ripcord
Break me down and build me up
I wanna be the slip, slip
Word upon your lip, lip
Letter that you rip, rip
Break me down and build me up
Whatever it takes
‘Cause I love the adrenaline in my veins
I do whatever it takes
‘Cause I love how it feels when I break the chains
Whatever it takes
Yeah, take me to the top, I’m ready for
Whatever it takes
‘Cause I love the adrenaline in my veins
I do what it takes

Hypocritical, egotistical
Don’t wanna be the parenthetical, hypothetical
Working onto something that I’m proud of, out of the box
An epoxy to the world and the vision we’ve lost
I’m an apostrophe
I’m just a symbol to remind you that there’s more to see
I’m just a product of the system, a catastrophe
And yet a masterpiece, and yet I’m half-diseased
And when I am deceased
At least I go down to the grave and die happily
Leave the body and my soul to be a part of thee
I do what it takes
Whatever it takes
‘Cause I love the adrenaline in my veins
I do whatever it takes
‘Cause I love how it feels when I break the chains
Whatever it takes
Yeah, take me to the top, I’m ready for
Whatever it takes
‘Cause I love the adrenaline in my veins
I do what it takes

~ Imagine Dragons

Posted by: Julie Morris on 5/30/2021 at 10:37 am

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Mt. Rainier: August 28th Four Day Summit Climb Update

August 28, 2017

Posted by: Mike Walter, Caleb Ladue

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,500'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Mike Walter and Caleb Laude reached 12,500' on Mt. Rainier this morning. The team spent some time watching the sunrise through the smoky haze at Ingraham Flats before heading back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Logan - I was thinking of you as I watched the colorful sunrise from sea level this morning. Looks like it was beautiful at 12,500’! Hawken says he’s proud of you for getting as high as Little Tahoma. Love you! ~ Susie

Posted by: Susie on 8/28/2017 at 1:36 pm

Greg, we have been thinking about you all weekend! Hope it was a wonderful trip and that you felt well during the ascent! So excited and proud of you! Know we love you and can’t wait to hear all about your adventure! Love Mom and Dad

Posted by: Julie Oyan on 8/28/2017 at 8:44 am

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Continue to Wait at Basecamp

July 2, 2013

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

July 1, 2013 We are still here. And by here, I mean McKinley Basecamp airstrip in a snowstorm. I am usually an optimist in these types of situations, but the forecast is for days of the muck. In order to improve international relations, we have adopted two Russian climbers that reached the summit the same day we did and are stuck with us. Andre and Igor pretend to like our jokes and our cooking so we will keep them awhile! I told the group we were making them Vietnamese Pho for dinner. Really it was Ramen with some dehydrated vegetables. Although they knew what it was, they put some Sriracha hot sauce in it and humored me! RMI Summit Team 6 P.S. Cindee says Happy Birthday Roger!

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At Itasca. Missing you. Can’t wait to talk.

Love,

Dad, Mom and David

Posted by: Mike on 7/3/2013 at 11:49 am

Oh dear. Stuck for days and no pop tarts?

Posted by: Lisa Mackey on 7/2/2013 at 11:44 am

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Finish Their Expedition

June 20, 2013

Posted by: Jake Beren, Josh Maggard, Leon Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 358'

Thursday, June 20, 2013 The lower glacier was fully covered in fog when we turned in last night and to our surprise it had cleared completely by the time we decided to walk. The early morning light on the surrounding mountains and the waxing moon in the purple sky made an absolutely surreal walk out of the range. The team finished very strong, hitting the runway in style in the morning just as a pair of Otters hit the upper strip. Now in Talkeetna, the team is enjoying the comforts of reentry and in a few hours we are going to enjoy a big meal cooked over something more refined than a camp stove. What a treat! It is hard to believe that we are back in town already. Enjoying nearly perfect weather and a very strong team, we were able to take advantage of the weather windows and climb the route entirely by ourselves in quite reasonable conditions. Additionally if there was ever a team to handle some downtime and extra rest days with quality conversation, this was it. Yet the weather smiled upon us and our training and strength as a team really came together for an efficient ascent with great folks. Thanks again to everyone on the team for really rising to the challenge of Denali and matching themselves perfectly to their environment for a safe, successful climb. It has been a pleasure. RMI Guide Jake Beren

Mt. Rainier: June 3rd Summit

June 3, 2023

Posted by: Brent Okita, Joe Hoch

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Joe Hoch reached the 14,410' summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Joe Hoch reported a beautiful day of climbing with 20 mph breeze from the southwest. The team is on the descent making their way back to Camp Muir.

Congratulations to Today's Team!

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Move to 14,200’

June 28, 2021

Posted by: Mike Walter, Nikki Champion, Ben Luedtke

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Monday, June 28, 2021 - 9:02 am PT

With clear skies and light winds we retraced our steps from a few days ago up to Genet Basin. This time, though, we had our whole kit with us and now we've a established a comfortable camp at 14,200'. Today will be a rest day for us, and we will review the skills necessary to travel on the fixed rope above us on the head wall.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Happy Birthday, Jim!

Posted by: Laura ODonnell on 6/30/2021 at 1:50 am

Keep up the good work guys! #teamAaron

Posted by: Emilee on 6/29/2021 at 10:22 am

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons Turned at 11,300’

June 16, 2021

Posted by: Pepper Dee

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 11,300'

The Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons left Camp Schurman early this morning heading out for their summit attempt on Mt. Rainer. Due to unstable snow, the team turned at 11,300’ feet. They are heading back to camp where they will spend the remainder of their time on the mountain practicing the alpine mountaineering skills they have been learning all week. The team will descend from Camp Schurman tomorrow afternoon.

Congratulations team!

Vinson Massif: Dave Hahn Recounts Summit Day

December 17, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Elevation: 9,100'

It was still cloudy at high camp this morning, despite predictions for clearing. But looking up at the summit of Mt Shinn or the higher ridges of Vinson (the summit is not visible from high camp) it was obvious that no wind was in the mix. We decided to go for the top. We were out of camp by 9:15 AM. The cloud cover actually kept us from overheating in the first few hours. The team made steady progress- everybody was strong and using their best energy saving techniques. We all found the summit ridge to be a magical place. We had no big views, since by that point we were in the cloud tops, but that meant we concentrated our attention on the close in views of rock and snow formations. We hit the top at 4:30 PM and were quite surprised at how comfortable it was to sit up there, with zero wind and strong sun shining on the clouds around us. We enjoyed a half hour on top and then began our careful descent, reaching high camp at 7:25 PM. This allowed us to eat dinner and get to bed at a respectable hour (which has been rare). Good sleep is what we need now to make tomorrow's descent to Basecamp manageable and safe. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations on yet another successful summit!!! We have enjoyed following the blog and thinking of all of you!!! Best wishes! Love, Amy and Harry

Posted by: Amy Eubanks on 12/18/2013 at 6:10 pm

Larry and team

Very neat!

Congratulations ... and thank you for reminding us that setting, pursuing and achieving loft goals is possible and very worthwhile!

Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 12/18/2013 at 10:04 am

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Most Popular Entries

Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak: Climbing Kala Patar

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Aconcagua: RMI Team Moves to Camp 3

Denali Expedition: Walter and Team Waiting on Weather to Move Up

Mt. Rainier: August 28th Four Day Summit Climb Update

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Continue to Wait at Basecamp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Finish Their Expedition

Mt. Rainier: June 3rd Summit

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Move to 14,200’

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons Turned at 11,300’

Vinson Massif: Dave Hahn Recounts Summit Day

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