The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Alan Davis and Jess Wedel reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The route from Camp Muir to the 14,410' summit took the team 6 1/2 hours to climb. It was a windy morning, but otherwise clear.
The gods of Denali blessed the team with the weather window needed to begin the hardest three days of our lives. We began our assault up The Wall and eventually the fixed lines. The sun was surprisingly warm and persistent. The black rocks jutting from the frozen snow reminded me constantly of the Oreo McFlurry I will no doubt consume when I get off here. We are thinking of you all as we attempt to summit tomorrow.
The entire team, 20 of us plus 5 local guides, are in place for a summit attempt on Iliniza Norte. This is an important part of our preparation for Cotopaxi. Today we climbed three hours and 2700 ft under cloudy skies to reach the hut. We'll set out at 6 AM to go toward the 16,818' summit. Hoping for clear skies and grand views. Perhaps we'll get some good exercise.
Mark Tucker here calling from Island Peak Basecamp. Had a wonderful stay at the resort in Chukung. Great evening, kind fellowship with other climbers from around the world. The hike up here took about 3 hours, and did very well and greeted by a staff that we've had in place. They've been here for few days, great dining and kitchen area, wonderful food, tents already set up. What a lap of luxury we walked right into. We did a couple hikes today to keep the blood flowing. The team is doing very well. Planning tomorrow to finalize details, get some gear sorted, and then we're gonna ship up to High Camp and get ourselves ready for the summit push tomorrow in the late evening. So the deal is on, we're doing great, and we'll talk to you later.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
RMI Guide Mark Tucker calls in from Island Peak Basecamp.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent and Team are currently standing on the summit of Mt. Shuksan. They reported beautiful weather with hardly a cloud in the sky. Billy said, "It doesn’t get much better than this." The team is enjoying the view and will head back to their high camp shortly.
Congratulations Billy & Team!
We woke to a bluebird day and enjoyed a view of Ama Dablam while we ate breakfast. But bluebird often comes at the cost of warmth, so after a breakfast of (oh, you already know what we ate) we bundled up and hit the trail. The first part of the trail lead us through a forest of evergreen and rhododendron and sloped downward to a bridge across the Imja Khola. Once across the bridge the forest gave way to scrub and the trail started up. It was easy to overlook the effort of climbing with stunning peaks vying with chortens and Buddhist memorials for our attention.
Mid-morning found us in the village of Pangboche. Our plan was to visit the Lama Geshe for a blessing and we arrived just as he was finishing up his morning clean-up and relaxing in the sun. We spent the next hour with him. He performed the blessing ceremony and we shared a cup of yak butter tea with him. I would gladly experience the ceremony again; but once is enough for yak butter tea. I should have taken Mark's advice.
Personal note: I have been accused of being a Buddhist shaman in another life and I swear the Lama Geshe and I had a connection.
Leaving the Lama, we wound our way through the village with views of walled fields below us. The trail was punctuated by many memorials for climbers and Sherpa. It was a reminder that the mountains belong to no one and that we are here as their guests. It is with respect and caution that we must undertake this trek and climb.
We stopped for lunch in Orso at a small place with a delightful sun room overlooking the valley. It was there that we met a man who was apparently suffering from AMS that was waiting for a helicopter to take him to a lower elevation. He said he had been waiting for about four hours already and his local guide was off trying to sort things out. It was impressive to see Mark assess the situation and take action. He had the guy drinking electrolytes, pressure breathing and forcing food down in no time. Within 20-30 minutes he was sitting up saying how much better he felt and talking to us. The helicopter showed up a couple minutes later which was impressive on a whole other level. In either case, both Kim and I feel lucky to have such a competent team leader.
As has been the pattern in the afternoons, the weather rolled in so we beat feet out towards Pheriche. It was a short hike, but included an appropriate amount of up before we rolled down into town. Not long after we arrived the other RMI team rolled in. We're now one big happy RMI family - if only for the night. --John
A big shout-out to Ms. Barnes 5th grade class today! We are taking a lot of photos of erosion for you.
Habari!
This is the Kili team checking in from the top of the Barranco Wall. We've just ascended the steepest part of our trek. We started this morning at 12,600' and have climbed just over 1,000 vertical feet. The views of the Heim Glaciers on the upper mountain were awesome this morning. The clouds have come in now which will give us pleasant hiking conditions the rest of the way.
Tomorrow we will ascend to high camp!
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall & Team
RMI Guides Brent Okita & Mike Haugen reported a perfect day of climbing on Mt. Rainier today. The Four Day Climb June 18 - 21 reached the summit around 7 am and enjoyed some time in the crater before starting their descent. The teams started their descent from the crater rim just after 8 am and will return to Camp Muir. After a short break the teams will continue the final 4.5 miles to Paradise and be transferred back to Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon.
So far we've had a tremendous trip.
Our first day started cold and rainy, which posed no problem for us given that our training that day was largely spent indoors or at least under the cover of a roof overhead. That day was spent doing some technical training, going through equipment needed for the week, and getting to know one another.
Day 2, Monday, we moved to Camp Muir on what ended up being a fairly nice day. The group was impressive moving uphill, with nobody having difficulty with the 4,500' hike up the snowfield.
Tuesday was a very full day as we covered all the skills we needed to climb the mountain. Following our skills session we ventured out onto the Cowlitz Glacier to practice what we learned and better understand just how glaciers behaved.Following this it was back to Muir to prepare for our climb. A summit talk, early dinner and early bedtime set us up for our climb. Waking up at 1:00am and walking at 2:00, we were immediately challenged by high winds. Unfortunately, the winds haunted us all day, making for a difficult climb. But we persevered and got lucky, summiting just after 8:00am.
The team did great and we're all enjoying some well deserved rest.
Talk again tomorrow,
RMI Guide Brent Okita & Team
Hello!
We have started our progress towards Ama Dablam, and we left Khumjung this morning under an unusual layer of fog that made our walk a bit chilly and damp.
Our arrival to Debuche, half way between Khumjung and Ama Dablam Base Camp, was greeted with the best soups so far this trip, and we are enjoying the afternoon staying warm inside our lodge, named Rivendell.
Nothing more to report from the trails today, other than we have started to feel the home stretch of our journey towards Ama Dablam; early bed tonight and tomorrow base camp!
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos
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Congrats team! Very fun meeting and hiking with you all. Big thank you to our awesome guides, Alan, Sam and Sam :)
Posted by: Jeffrey Kirk on 7/24/2023 at 8:45 pm
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