We got up today at 3:30am, this put us in the Sun gate for the sunrise over Machu Picchu and we got a great view. There’s something about seeing glaciers from a high jungle ridge and taking in the most complex stone structures built onto the side of mountainous terrain that’s put the last 5 days into perspective.
The steep step section named the “gringo killer” didn’t slow this team of gringos down. Our group has adapted from cold and wet to hot and humid conditions exceptionally well. While this is a hiking trip, the mileage, consistent high altitude, and awkwardly placed stone steps are not for the faint of heart.
We toured Machu Picchu for a couple of hours and took in the amazing stone work and sheer size of this important cultural site for the Quechua people. As the crowds began to swell we decided that a beer, warm shower, and burger (that was the actual order) was well overdue so we headed for our hotel.
Tomorrow we will take an early morning visit to Machu Picchu and a hike up Huayna Picchu before heading to the train and our return to Cusco. This has been a great trip through the Andes, while a little cold and wet at times we got unprecedented views of the glaciated peaks while hiking through scenic valleys and learning about one of the great civilizations and their impressive achievements.
RMI Guide Mike King
Tuesday, June 10, 2014 - 4:10 PT
The first real weather day for us this trip. The overnight temps dropped to -7F not including the wind chill. Our early morning plans to move a few items for caching up to our high camp were foiled by the high winds -- 35mph winds at 17,200' and negative temps! Not to mention the squalls of crystalline snow flakes flying in all directions.
The sun peered out from the flanks of the west rib shedding enough solar rays to warm the tents. With the brim of a ball cap we scraped the tent walls free of the frost of our night's breathing. Lighting the stoves in our kitchen tent soon brought the smells of coffee, bacon, and cream cheese with bagels.
This motivated our spirits to make our camp a fortress. We spent two hours building large block walls and remodeling the bathroom -- which, I might add, could be the best one currently on the mountain featuring a snow free enclosed taj ma-stall! Not to mention the fact that RMI Guide Bryan Hendrick took on a project to expand and improve an igloo just outside camp...soon we'll have a monstrous underground lair for additional resting and wind protection. Sick!
We are now taking a rest, drying out and warming up after a great session. The wall building serves as great acclimatization through light exercise, team building, and making camp even better for this time we're spending in this harsh Arctic environment.
We will keep our hopes high for lighter winds, less snow, and a bit of warmth.
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Bryan Hendrick, and the crew!
Daveed, You guys are all crazy (amy) however Bud wants to be there, he thinks it is hot here. Hope you are having fun. I can’t send you too much warm weather or I will freeze (amy). See you soon.
Posted by: BUD/AMY on 6/12/2014 at 6:11 pm
Dave, We’re waiting for summer to start, but our chilly 62 degrees must sound balmy to you. Think summer thoughts. Stay safe…
RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Jake Beren led the Four Day Summit Climb August 3 - 6, 2013 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They reported a smooth ascent and a beautiful day with barely any wind. The teams began their descent from the crater rim around 7:40 am PT. They will return to Camp Muir to repack before continuing their descent to Paradise.
Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
Same storm, different day. We are still at Basecamp and this big system of clouds and wind is still hitting the Ellsworth Mountains. It came on a bit more today, with thicker clouds and hours of light snow falling, but so far we have been spared the big winds. The teams we flew in with journeyed on up to Low Camp despite the weather today, so we are alone at base, but none of us is particularly worried that we are missing some golden opportunity.
We ate, read, listened to music, ate, slept and ate again... getting set for the end of the world, or a good day for climbing... whichever comes first.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Hello this is the RMI Mexico's Volcanoes Team checking in from La Malintzi, which is at the base of La Malinche (14,636 feet) this is the mountain we went hiking on today. For the first time that I’ve ever seen there was a fair bit of snow to hike through up top to get to the ridge. The team did very well getting through some pretty good conditions; a little bit of snow, a little bit of wind, and a little bit of rain. A real mixed bag. It was a great day and everyone did very well. We are going to grab some dinner and get ready to head toward the Altzimoni hut tomorrow which is at the base of Ixta.
That’s all from here, everyone is doing great and we will keep you posted.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in from Mexico after the team's acclimatization hike.
The Four Day Climb June 17 - 20 led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker, Henry Coppolillo and Claire Pennell consists of climbers supporting the American Lung Association of Washington and the Climb for Clean Air. The team enjoyed beautiful weather for all of their days spent on the mountain. Snow conditions and potential avalanche danger prevented the group from making a summit attempt. They enjoyed the sunrise from Ingraham Flats this morning along with some additional training. The team is now back at Camp Muir and plan to start their descent to Paradise around 10 am. Their program will conclude this afternoon in Ashford with a celebratory team dinner.
Nice work team!
PC: Win Whittaker | ALA Climbers learning ice axe arrest techniques during Climbing School.
Hello Everyone!
Galloping across the Vacas River we had a few team members think we were riding mules the rest of the way to base camp. However, once on drier ground we hopped off, thanked the mules for keeping us dry and began walking up towards Plaza Argentina.
Now at 14000 feet the team has had their fill of fresh melon and juice. Acclimating begins now and the entire team is feeling good, especially after a hot shower and a fresh change of clothes.
Tomorrow we will be resting. A full report of activities will follow. Now, it's time to set up the volleyball net.
RMI Guide JJ Justman & Team
Waking to perfect conditions, clear and near windless, we decided to saddle up and move on up to Genet Basin and make a new home at 14,000 feet. Our hard work yesterday really paid off, leaving us with a perfect trail to camp. It was even downright hot as we pulled into camp and we found a great camp left to us by our friends now living at 17,000 camp. Thanks.
It was still tough, but our team held together well and turned in early for some much needed rest. Tomorrow we will most likely retrieve our cache and spend the afternoon relaxing and preparing for the fixed lines higher up. Cross your fingers for some high pressure. A week would be plenty.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
In late October, RMI guides Pete Van Deventer, Caleb Ladue, Billy Haas, Steve Gately and myself took part in a Rock Guide Course conducted by the American Mountain Guides Association. The course was contracted and sponsored by the RMI Expeditions/First Ascent Guide Grant, and the instructors included former RMI Guide Jeff Ward, RMI and Colorado Mountain School Guide Mike Soucy and CMS Guide Mark Hammond.
As a guide staff, we felt very fortunate that both RMI and the AMGA instructors were able to plan the course during a timeframe that allowed us to work a full summer schedule on Rainier and still have a few weeks to prepare and train in the rock realm after a long season of alpine climbing in the Cascades. After completing my Ski Exam and becoming a Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide in April of this last year, I am personally very grateful to RMI for sponsoring the course, which allowed me to complete a second financially committing segment of my
continuing education and progression toward full IFMGA certification.
The 10-day course took place at Smith Rock State Park near Bend, OR. Over the years I have spent a fair bit of time climbing at Smith and I knew the venue would provide some unique challenges from both a climbing and guiding perspective. While Smith is known for it’s high quality sport climbing, on this course we would be dialing our focus more towards traditional climbing. Lucky for us, many of the ‘trad’ routes at Smith are notorious for having less than stellar rock quality, adding another complex element to the guiding objective.
The course kicked off on the last week of October. The weather looked to be good for the first couple of days, so we postponed the ground-work until a later date, and got right into the climbing. For me, the learning process brought me right back to my apprenticeship days at RMI, when I had to change the filter on my perspective. I quickly learned to transition my thinking from that of an advanced recreational climber to approaching a climbing objective from the viewpoint of a guide. It’s a subtle change, but it makes a huge difference in your mindset, risk management, and the decision making process.
The instructor team did a great job of leading by example. They started right off with a very professional and competent course opening discussion and several demonstrations on belaying and anchoring techniques, as well as various ways to increase both guide and client security. As outdoor professionals, we don’t sit still well or for very long, and so were very thankful when we even got to climb a few pitches at the end of the first day!
The fair weather held on into our second day, but as the forecast looked to be deteriorating later in the week, the instructors opted to keep us in the field climbing in the event that we got shut down by rain and wind over the following days. This strategy worked quite well, as we were able to practice more of the techniques and rope trickery we learned the previous day while spending time off the ground in the vertical orientation.
By nature, guides tend to be kinesthetic learners, and as a group we all commented on the fact that we were able to process and retain the information with higher success if we could get our hands on the rope.
After the first few days, the course continued to ramped up both physically and mentally. For me it just got better as it went on, and the final day was by far the best, culminating in a lead of the aesthetic final pitch of Zebra Zion.
I can’t say enough about the both the quality and caliber of the AMGA instructors, and I’d like to especially thank my co-workers for a great time and creating an environment that was positive and fun, all while staying engaged and eager to learn every day.
Finally, a big thank you RMI, for investing in your guides and organizing this opportunity to allow us to further our professional education!
_____
Seth Waterfall has been guiding trips for RMI for over a decade, and leads trips to destinations the world round. He lives in Enumclaw, WA, were he spends his spare time skiing, road biking, and climbing throughout the Cascades.
Unrelenting! That is the word that describes our weather on Aconcagua. Last night we received 10 inches of snow. When we awoke this morning the winds had scoured most of that snow off the mountain leaving several deep drifts around camp.
Thankfully the weather settled down a bit and we were able to break camp and pack up. The scene looked more like Denali in Alaska than Aconcagua in the Andes. The team did great in the harsh conditions. It would have even made The Godfather of Denali, Joe Horiskey, proud as the team worked together in cold, blustery winds.
We are now sitting in silence at high camp enjoying the sun at 19,600 feet. The team has run its final days. Tomorrow is our only shot. Then we have to head downhill. As luck I believe has it, the forecast is for light winds on top.
We will touch base tomorrow, keep your fingers crossed, it should be from the top!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
You can do it! Saying prayers for good weather for you and will sacrifice something to the weather Gods for you. You are the best. Very proud of you!
Cutter dog says Hi!
Love,
Mary
Posted by: Mary fox on 1/28/2014 at 7:31 am
Incredible! You guys have dealt with an unbelievable amount of varied weather conditions! Looks like the mountain is giving it everything she has to you guys…well done for doing such an excellent job! We are so proud of you, dad (Lew Smith)! I know this is the toughest climb you’ve ever done, but from what it sounds like, you and the team are doing awesome! Just like I did in the Marine Corps, you remember your training. When the poo poo hits the fan, your hard work and training kicks into gear, and I’m quite sure that’s what it has been doing for you while on Aconcagua. Keep it up, dad! You guys are so close. I pray that you have good weather conditions, so that you have a window of time to go for the summit. We will see what Aconcagua will do; if she will allow you and the team to stand on top. I hope so! Best of luck and climb on!!!
_Union_Glacier_Vinson_-_2.png)
Daveed, You guys are all crazy (amy) however Bud wants to be there, he thinks it is hot here. Hope you are having fun. I can’t send you too much warm weather or I will freeze (amy). See you soon.
Posted by: BUD/AMY on 6/12/2014 at 6:11 pm
Dave, We’re waiting for summer to start, but our chilly 62 degrees must sound balmy to you. Think summer thoughts. Stay safe…
Patty
Posted by: Patty on 6/12/2014 at 5:37 am
View All Comments