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It was another beautiful day here in the Khumbu valley, and we had some nice views of Ama Dablam as we headed out of Namche, but high clouds keep us from seeing Everest today. Normally that wouldn’t be ideal, but the clouds and light breeze made for ideal hiking weather and we’ll certainly see Everest again soon enough.

We hiked for about 6 hours today up and down, dropping all the way down to a river called Dodh Koshi, which is a stunning turquoise, then climbed slowing up the hill to the famous Tengboche Monastery.

Traditionally we have gotten a blessing from a famous lama in Pangboche, but that lama has moved on to a higher calling. So today we were able to request a private Puja with another lama at Tengboche and each received a blessing. The Puja is a Buddhist ceremony where the lama chants a Buddhist prayer and gives us a blessing to protect us from harm. Everyone receive a silk scarf called a khata and a sungdi, which is a string we wear around our neck that embodies the prayer.

We've since settled into a nice and warm tea house called Rivendale that is hosting a handful of trekkers from around the world.
Hot showers and good conversations have rounded out the evening and now it's time for a little rest.

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the newly blessed crew.

Today we enjoyed an acclimitization hike on La Malinche. The trail was busy with other hikers and we made our first dog friends of the trip. Along the trail and through the trees we weaved our way up, spotting hummingbirds and rocky peaks surrounding us. 

We did not have the opportunity to summit due to weather and time but we still made it to 13,000 feet! 

After a well earned, delicious meal at our resort, we settle in at 10,000 feet to rest for our Izta adventure tomorrow. 

RMI Guide Abby Westling and team 

The Mt. Rainier Five Day Climb, led by RMI Guides Mike King and Andy Bond, reached the summit today!  They enjoyed calm winds and great conditions on their climb today.  The teams will return to Camp Muir for their second night on the mountain.  We look forward to congratulating them in Ashford tomorrow afternoon!

The Four Day Climb Teams led by Taylor Bickford and Joe Hoch radioed down this morning to let us know that they turned at 12,300' due to high winds and deteriorating conditions on the upper mountain. The team was safely back in Camp Muir by 7:45 AM PT. After drying out a little and resting, the team will descend from Camp Muir and be back in town this afternoon.

Today was a good day. Folks keep commenting on how this place keeps getting more stunning. With the new snow we have had recently, the contrast of the Alaskan Range with its freshly painted steep spines, flutes that glow in the alpine light and bright blue glacial ice glistening in the sun. I have to agree. We have been waking up around seven each morning to some very chilly temperatures. Today camp was busy since some stable weather moved in and people took advantage of being out in it. We spent our entire day putting our skills to use. Everyone set up 6:1 crevasse rescue system simulating an actual crevasse fall of their climbing partner. We took a turn catching a fall, being lowered into the crevasse, and being the climber responsible for running the show. Everyone did very well and we were impressed. After that we still had plenty of time left so we fixed some lines - ropes - and rappelled down into the crevasse where we transitioned into icicle climbing mode. I think a couple folks might have just acquired a new but expensive sport. Now we are all chilling, making some pretty amazing quesadillas - the group contributions has allowed for some creative visions. We'll see what we get into tomorrow. Good night from the land of the six hour sunset. RMI Guide Jason Thompson

RMI Guide Adam Knoff called on June 10 at 5:50 pm (PST) to report the team was on the summit of Mt. McKinley! They made a great push starting at 9:00 am this morning and were celebrating at the top. The weather was warm and beautiful and it was the best day ever for their team. They were going to head down to 17,000' camp to spend the night. On Saturday they plan to head to 14,000' camp and spend another night. The whole crew made it to the top and were very excited that their second push paid off! Congratulations to the team!

Two nights ago, when I sent my last dispatch, we were all a bit deflated, having been told we'd most likely be sitting here at Union in bad weather for 4 more days. To our surprise, though, yesterday morning brought brilliant blue skies and the possibility of an Ilyushin flight in the evening. As the day went on, it was clear the Ilyushin would be coming to take one load of passengers out to Punta Arenas. Included in that first flight would be Ed, Cindy, David, and Ben. The rest of us - Peter, Seth, Caroline, Kent, and I - would be on the next flight. With ample sun and stunning peaks waiting outside camp, there was little option but to go climbing...for those of us not packing. Mount Rossman, a towering massif of snowy ridges and rocky buttresses, had lured many already with it's siren song. Unclimbed until last year, nearly every couloir and ridge on the multi-summit peak had seen a first ascent in the past 10 days. Caroline went off with Vic Saunders and some others for one of the few remaining unclimbed lines on the right side of the peak. Soon after, Seth blasted uphill, skis on his back, to make turns off the summit. Kent and I, after finishing up some production work, decided on another unclimbed line, a nice looking couloir climbing some 1500 feet up the peak. For me, the joy of doing a first ascent, of setting the first tracks on a given route or peak, is not to be able to brag about it, but rather just the sheer adventure of it, for you have no idea what lies ahead. Sure, Kent and I looked at the route from camp, saw that it looked continuous and snowy the whole way, and seemed to be steep enough to be fun, but not too steep. But, you never know. Would the snow be good? How about the rock quality where it seemed to pinch closed 1/2 way up? Ice screws? Pickets? Would there be the bullet-proof, blue ice we'd seen elsewhere, or just easy-going neve? While those questions could be intimidating, swirling in the back of the mind, they are, to me, the part that gets me going. It's the lack of knowledge, the feeling of some vestige of "true" adventure, which makes such an outing enticing. In the end, Kent and I found a beautiful, aesthetic line following generally good snow up a 40-55 degree couloir for 1500 feet. The rope and gear we brought stayed in my pack, neither of us feeling the need for it with such good conditions. It was just fun climbing, some shooting by both of us, and an immensely enjoyable few hours on a new route on Mount Rossman. We called it "Ilyushin Fields" after the plane which, as we descended, dropped through a curtain of ice fog onto a blue ice runway, loaded 62 passengers, and swept them off to Punta. Soon, we hope, we, too, will be in the air from Antarctica over the Drake Passage. But, if not, while some 20 first ascents have been ticked off around here in the past 2 weeks, there are still a lot of firsts left to do around Union Glacier. We won't be bored. -Jake Norton

May 12, 2022  - 10:08 am PT

We had great weather yesterday and were able to fly in to Kahiltna Base Camp. We hit the ground running and took advantage of the weather to move to the base of Ski Hill. Light cloud cover kept temperatures perfect for climbing, and the Kahiltna Glacier was in remarkably good condition, which made for a pleasant day in the mountains. Our packs and sleds were heavy, but our team did great getting to camp and establishing camp. This morning the good weather is continuing, and we're getting ready to head off on a carry, establishing a cache up above Ski Hill. We'll be in touch and let you know how it goes.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

At 5:45 am this morning, under a canvas of clear skies and the first light of dawn, our Four Day Climb team—led by Ray Holt and an incredible group of climbers—stood on the summit of Mount Rainier.  

The team encountered some wind while navigating the Disappointment Cleaver, but by the time they reached the summit, the winds had eased, offering a calm and peaceful moment at 14,410 feet.

Now on their descent, the team is making steady progress back to Camp Muir.  

Congratulations to all the climbers and guides on this unforgettable achievement!

Thursday, June 1, 2023 - 8:25 am PT

We made it to base camp! We had a smooth, though sticking with the theme of the trip, pretty white walk out to Base camp. We got in in the early afternoon relieved to be done pulling our sleds and shouldering heavy packs. The clouds didn't promise much for flying out, but we stayed hopeful and lounged on our packs and sleds. We had left ourselves some celebratory materials and we enjoyed those. A few clearing trends and blue skies gave us hope a few times but by 8pm we accepted that we would have another night in tents and set then up, made a last dinner of burritos, and crawled back into sleeping bags. We are happy to have done our part now. No more packs or sleds, just waiting for weather to cooperate. And it is so much warmer, and easier to breathe down here! 

Hopefully weather let's us fly off soon!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer