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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climbs Reach the Summit

RMI Guides Walter Hailes and Chris Ebeling and the Four Day Climbs reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 7:30 AM. The teams climbed through the clouds before the sun broke through shortly before the summit. Walter reported 15 mph winds and cold temps. The teams will spend some time on the summit celebrating before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. We look forward to seeing them back at BaseCamp in Ashford this afternoon. Congratulations Climbers!
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Nice job! Can’t wait to hear all about it!

Posted by: Hilary Gehman & Matt Smith on 7/1/2019 at 6:50 pm

Congratulations!  We’re happy you have this experience and we’re looking forward to your stories.

Posted by: Wayne and Louise Gehman on 7/1/2019 at 5:28 am


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Digging Out from “Epic” Storm

June 27, 2014 - 11:11 pm PT At 8 PM this evening we were blessed with the first glimmer of sun in two and a half days. This isn't completely out of the ordinary for this neck of the woods but more surprising, even to me with eight Denali expeditions, was the amount of snow that fell during that sunless stretch. Four feet would about do this storm justice but when you are living in a nylon house that can collapse under a moderate burial of drifting snow it felt more like ten feet. This morning at breakfast while in the posh house, a one pole pyramid cook tent set up to fit the entire team, shook and sagged under the constant loading of falling flakes, Jay Lampas asked if this snow storm qualified as "epic" yet? I didn't want to sound too fragile and make him believe this was the "storm of the century" but I did have to concede that four feet in two days was a touch "epic". Of course the main worry of the team is how this massive blanketing will effect our upward progress. I didn't have an exact answer but I do know we will be sitting still on Saturday no matter how brilliant the weather because of the avalanche hazard that awaits above us. Safety is always the number one priority so we will move to 14,000 feet only when we know it is safe to do so. Hopefully our dwindling lunch food and Cosmo magazines can hold us out until we can get to the cache of food we left at Windy Corner. We are all looking forward to a night with no 2 am wake up calls for shoveling duty. Maybe full dreams will be of the upper mountain. All the best from McKinley Team Knoff.

On The Map

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Yup! We are now swimming in Torch Lake after a “forever” winter in Northern Michigan!  As we follow you up Denali we can see that the snows have not left all places to date!  We hope you get a break in the weather and your journey will be able to move forward.  Ken

Posted by: Ken and Kathy Masck on 6/29/2014 at 4:45 am

Happy birthday Wheeler! I hope the weather cooperates!

Posted by: Kenny on 6/28/2014 at 9:33 pm


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 14,000’

Wednesday, June 12, 2013 A fine day for a move presented itself to us this morning and we certainly made the most of it. Leaving our 11,000' Camp in the early morning cold is great training for the chill of higher altitude and we made a solid bid before the sun came out in force. It's nearly always hot coming into 14 and today was no exception. We were treated to some real hospitality when we arrived in the form of another RMI Team, led by Tyler Jones and Garret Stevens. Freshly hydrated, we set to work building camp and rebuilding ourselves with a big meal and early night's rest. Tomorrow is a rest day, but I hazard a guess that we will be working in some way most of the day, retrieving a cache, fortifying camp and practicing for the fixed lines. It is exciting to be up here with such a great team! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Galen,
I wait eagerly everyday for updates, checking the blog multiple times (despite the fact that I have subscribed to notifications). I have also read the blogs of the team you saw come down after their summit as well as the other team who’s also at 14k but started before your team. Reading all of these incredible stories and lush descriptions makes me jelly :( and reminds me of when I camped on top of tajumulco. Looks like there’s a bit of very cold and fierce wind and you may have to wait before climbing to 17k and/or to the top. By my calculations, you have 2/3 days of buffer time so hopefully the winds will die down a bit. Or “if you can hold on. If you can hold on, hold on.” Today I found myself thinking and brainstorming about our travel and it made me happy. I hope to see you soon R

Posted by: Alice on 6/14/2013 at 1:04 am

Keep up the great work everyone!I miss you Michael, have fun and be safe. Love Vien.

Posted by: Vien Vail on 6/13/2013 at 5:22 pm


Kilimanjaro: Seth & Team Hiking Above the Clouds

We are on the trail to Shira Plateau, our second camp on Kilimanjaro. Last night was calm and clear with a full moon and today we've been above the clouds all morning. The trail is busy with climbers from all over the world but our team was ready to go early this morning so we're ahead of the pack. We got our first view of the upper mountain today and we're all suitably impressed. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

good luck guys!
I’m jealous!

Posted by: Russ on 8/7/2012 at 3:40 am

Matt
Have a great climb
Love
Mom and Dad

Posted by: Mary Ann Krull on 8/4/2012 at 10:20 am


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Flying to McKinley’s Kahiltna Glacier

Thursday, June 13, 2013 RMI Guide Mike Haugen called from Talkeetna, Alaska this morning. The weather is beautiful and the team is packed and ready. They are loading their planes at the K2 Aviation Hanger and will be flying to the Kahiltna Glacier today. We wish them a safe and successful expedition on Mt. McKinley!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Have a safe ascent and descent after you all summit. We are so proud of you QL.

Posted by: George Landers on 6/14/2013 at 3:53 pm

Best of luck to everyone. Be safe and don’t forget to have fun. 

A big shout out to Cindee Teer!

Posted by: Alyse Parrino on 6/14/2013 at 3:32 pm


Aconcagua Expedition:  Team Moves to Camp 2

Hola amigos de Guanacos Camp (Camp 2)! We awoke to perfectly clear, blue skies so we took advantage by breaking down camp early and ascending up to Camp 2 where we are currently well established. However, this morning's blue skies have given way to some clouds and flurries. Seems like we've timed tomorrow's rest day perfectly with some crappy weather. Right now there's an ominous lenticular cloud engulfing the summit but the team remains optimistic because there should be a break in the weather beginning Monday evening. We are all feeling great and climbing exceptionally well. Tonight is also Michael's birthday and we intend to do our best to celebrate it at well over 18,000'. Ciao, RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I ordered 75 pizzas for Freed’s birthday.  I hope you guys get them…

Posted by: Zach on 2/11/2012 at 5:56 pm

I guess with the change in weather Mark has his shirt on!!  Love ya Julie

Posted by: Julie on 2/11/2012 at 2:44 pm


Mt. Rainier: May 31st Team Turns Due to High Winds

The Four-Day Climb with Dominic Cifelli & Sam Marjerison turned around at High Break (13,600’) today due to high winds and heavy clouds forming on the upper mountain during their ascent. The team is en route back to Camp Muir and should return to Basecamp early this afternoon.

Congratulations to the team on a strong climb!

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Bolivia Bond and Team Summit Huanya Potosi!

Yesterday was our second summit of the trip, and the first time above 6000m for several members of the team! We had the luxury of being the only group in the refugio on Sunday night so it was easy to get to bed early in advance of our midnight wake up. 

We left the hut at 1 am under a beautiful starry sky. A short rock scramble brought us to the toe of the glacier, which started out as the loud, crunchy ice we’d become accustomed to on Tarija, but quickly transitioned to grippy neve. The night was cold but dead calm, and it was a really pleasant few hours of climbing in the darkness until we finally caught the first rays of sun at the base of the summit pyramid. 

The final few hundred feet to the summit made for the hardest climbing of the day. The challenge of steep, at times rocky and loose walking was compounded by the thin air at almost 20,000’! The team took it in stride and soon we were all on top, admiring the views of La Paz and the surrounding peaks. After high fives, photos and a brief rest we began making our way back down to the hut. Everyone moved well and we made it off the glacier well before noon. With showers, comfy beds and cold drinks in La Paz in mind we only spent about 45 minutes resting at the hut before continuing the descent all the way back to the road. A few hours later we were enjoying a delicious dinner at Hotel Mitru Sur before turning in early for a well deserved night of sleep. 

This morning everyone headed out to explore the city and do some site seeing and souvenir shopping. This afternoon we’ll pack up for Illimani and head south to Pinaya first thing tomorrow. 

RMI Guide Andy Bond & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

That TV and those speakers!!!!  The best part is the fireplace.  Glad you got time to rest before the next climb!

Posted by: Sheila Forsyth on 8/13/2024 at 8:18 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Reach Denali Summit!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer checked in from the summit of Denali at 5:50 pm PT on Monday, May 29th.  The team returned to their high camp at 17,000' around 1 am PT.

Congratulations to the May 9th Denali Expedition!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Brian….So proud of you and your team!  You did it!!  It will be so much fun to hear all about it.  Be safe!

Posted by: Marilyn Goltry on 5/30/2023 at 6:21 pm

Amazing!!!
Now please come back safely!

Posted by: Lyds on 5/30/2023 at 3:08 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Together in Talkeetna

Friday, June 18, 2021 - 10:18 pm PT

It is usually a good sign when the easy part goes smooth and easy.  Our team of seven climbers and guides flew in and met up in Alaska without a hitch.  It was cloudy and overcast as we drove up from Anchorage, but not so much that we couldn’t get glimpses of the big mountains up mingling with the cloud tops.  We stopped briefly in Wasilla for a few final provisions from the world of supermarkets, and then cruised on up the Parks Highway to the Talkeetna spur road.  After settling our gear at the airplane hangar and ourselves at the hotel, we braved mosquito hoards and labor shortages to find a fine dinner at the West Rib.  A well-fed climbing team then waddled out to the banks of the great Susitna River to see if the mountains had come out.  Not quite, but we judged it all to be good enough for day one. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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