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Wednesday, May 25, 2022 - 4 pm PT

Once again I write from our comfortable camp in Genet Basin. There is not very much new to report. It is mostly sunny and calm down here. The story is different up above, where a large lenticular cloud had encapsulated the upper mountain. Our friends at High Camp have reinforced their snow walls and are hunkered in their tents. We are all hopeful for the decreased winds that are forecast for Friday afternoon. In the mountains, you are at the whim of the weather, and it is a fool's journey to act otherwise. Hopefully our patience will pay off soon with an opportunity to move higher. Until then, we're in chill mode. Reading, music, conversations, and crosswords are on the itinerary. A big breakfast scramble with plenty of coffee was a highlight this morning. It's important to savor the little things as we wait for our chance for further climbing forays.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Friday May 28, 2021 - 7:39pm PT 

The winds and snow moved out for us today and we got to enjoy some sun and warmth in camp. We could still see winds moving quickly at times up above us on the west buttress, but it was nice to have pleasant conditions for a bit. We took the opportunity to build some truly monumental walls to protect against an expected wind event tomorrow, then refreshed and practiced our fixed line travel to prep for when the weather and conditions let us go higher.

Tomorrow is almost certainly a tent bound day, but the trend looks good for us going into next week. For now, we're happy to be acclimating and getting strong at 14,000', and to be within striking distance of our objective.

RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team

Wednesday, May 19, 2021 - 11:20 pm PT

Blue skies greeted us this morning in Talkeetna.  With potentially stormy weather approaching, we decided to make an expeditious attempt to fly onto the glacier this evening.  We lucked out and got a flight and landed at Base Camp. Now the adventure begins!  Tomorrow we plan to move to Camp 1 at 7,800 feet. 

RMI Guide Eric Frank

On The Map

The Paradise Seminar August 22 - 27 led by RMI Guide Nick Sinapius is completing their training and their program today. After several days of training on the lower slopes of Mt. Rainier, the team bumped their camp near Camp Muir yesterday and was ready to put their training to the test. Unfortunately, the weather and route didn't quite cooperate for them to make a summit attempt.  The team is now descending to Paradise.  They will conclude their program this afternoon with a small celebration of their adventure.

Nice work team!

Thursday, May 27, 2021 - 6:39pm PT

It sounded like rain drumming off the tent at a consistent staccato all night, into this morning. The problem was that there was frost in the tent and the temp was below zero. So was it rain? Nope. Graupel. Lots of graupel. As well as snow. And wind to move it. We had planned to rest anyways and that was perfect for today. We had a big bagel and smoked salmon brunch, then tucked back into tents to stay warm and dry.

The snow is anywhere from ankle to well over knee deep through camp. The wind have started to subside some this afternoon, but our world is still really white, with snow filtering down from the sky.

We'll do dinner and some warm tea and crawl into our sleeping bags to see what tomorrow brings.

RMI Guide Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team