Most Popular Entries

July 22, 2024 - 5:25 pm PT

Rest day in Ishinca basecamp. Woke up as the sun hit the valley and were welcomed into the dining tent with omelettes and coffee. We spent the day at our training crag just down the creek where we practiced more knots, hitches, fixed rope ascension, crevasse rescue, anchor building, and haul systems. Early to bed for a final summit attempt of our last peak of the trip, Urus Este.

RMI Guide Alan Davis

Sunday, May 21, 2023, 9:40pm PDT

Hello, hello!

Today we woke up to clear skies and chill to the air. The cold is a welcoming feeling after so much heat. We whipped up some bagels then headed back downhill to retrieve our cache. We made quick getting to it and steady work getting back up to camp. After another round of bagels we enjoyed a relaxing afternoon. The sun warmed our tents and dried wet socks before evening showers drifted in. Camp has filled up with more eager climbers hoping for the chance to stand on top of this beautiful mountain. One RMI teamed moved to 14k Camp where another RMI team sits waiting. We are here at 11k Camp with one more RMI team. We have twelve RMI guides currently on the mountain and eight of them are female. It's pretty cool to have so many strong female guides on the mountain at once. Any who, we are all snuggled up once again in our sleeping bags reading books, listening to music, watching TV or eating snacks. It's a fun feeling knowing we do not have to walk anywhere tomorrow and get to sleep in. 

So goodnight all,
RMI Guides Hannah Smith, Devin Guffey, Erika Birkeland and Team

Hello fellow readers!

Welcome to our journey! We have wrapped up day two of our Denali Expedition. Yesterday the team met at carousel 1 of the Anchorage Airport with heavy duffels in tow. A rainy drive through the woods of Alaska brought us to the launching pad of Denali Expeditions, Talkeetna. Talkeetna is a Native American word meaning where the rivers meet. At the end of town, you can stand where the Susitna, Chulitna, and the Talkeetna meet with views of Hunter, Foraker, and Denali off in the distance. Today the clouds covered up the mountains but the river rushed by with huge chunks of ice floating along down stream, making for a gorgeous view. It was a busy day for the team sorting gear and getting ready for our flight tomorrow. We are separated into two teams with five going on one plane and four on another. As of now, the weather looks good for getting onto the Kahiltna glacier. The team enjoyed their last dinner in civilization before eating a bunch of noodles and burritos on the mountain. You can see and feel the excitement but also the nerves and jitters for what lies ahead. It's going to be an amazing adventure and a memorable one too. Not only because we are climbing the tallest peak in North America but we are doing it as a team of all Ladies! So say hello to your all women's team, The Tatas. 

Stayed tuned for what's next,

RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team

Another brisk night broke clear and calm at Low Camp and when we poked our heads out of the tent this morning, we caught site of a new scene for us down here: not a cloud in the sky and not a puff of wind blowing over the mountain tops above. It was a good sign that it was time to move to High Camp. We packed up our gear, rationing down the extra wait and second sets of miscellaneous gear to keep our pack weights manageable and set off for High Camp. Crossing the upper portions of the Branscomb Glacier to the fixed lines was warm - hot even - as the sun baked down on us and the white faces all around us reflected the rays. We were down to climbing in just a few light fleece layers and our mood matched the high temps. Mid afternoon found us beginning to climb the large 3,000' face off of the glacier to the upper plateau of the Vinson Massif. We put our heads down and made solid, steady progress up the lines that run up the face. We paused at series of ledges partway up for a quick bite to eat and a drink and then continued upwards, reaching the top by early evening. Another hour of climbing a gentle glacial slope brought us into high camp and we quickly set about hacking a flat tent platform into the ice and frozen snow. Once the ground was level and the tent was up we built a long snow wall out of blocks of snow to buffer us in the event of winds later tonight. After we were finally settled, we took a moment to venture over to the edge of camp where a sheer face drops away to the Branscomb far below. The view was nothing short of spectacular. The Antarctic Ice Sheet stretched out as far as we could see, shimmering on the horizon in the evening light. Below us, the Branscomb Glacier flowed around the foot of the face and down past Base Camp where it melted into the sea of ice. Above us, the summits of Shinn and Epperly stood watch over the landscape with Vinson's true summit hiding just behind the ridge line above High Camp. It was a solid day of effort to climb up here and set up a warm and comfortable camp but we're all feeling well and happy to be up here. If the weather holds we hope to make a summit bid tomorrow or the following day - depending on conditions. RMI Guide Linden Mallory & Team d'accord

On The Map

Waking once the sun began to warm the tents was a welcome treat at 19,600 feet. Having that last cup of coffee in the rarified air of high camp before packing up and starting the beautiful and lengthy descent really let the last few weeks settle in. We have climbed on the highest mountain outside of Asia and now turn the skiff towards home. It is this point of the trip where we get to see how far out we've gone because there is no more out to go, just back. Retracing our steps back home will take a few days and is a wonderful way to let this adventure sink in. See you all soon! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

We were up early, slammed a quick breakfast then had a fun gathering of local staff and rewarded all of them with financial bonuses.This crew took great care of us while on the mountain, it felt really good to show our appreciation. A few hour descent to the park gate, a couple hour drive time watching the daily routine out the window of our monster truck and here we are. Back to hot showers and clean clothes. We just finished a dinner of fondue and topped it off with a bunch of summit certificates handed out to a group of well-deserving mountain climbers. More excitement ahead as we repack for the game viewing safari we start tomorrow. A great trip just keeps getting better. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

We caught our first views of Kilimanjaro today while on our two-hour drive to the park gate. Looming in the distance it was almost mistaken as a cloud. We spent about an hour getting checked in and all of our gear weighed. All in all there are 55 porters, guides, cooks, waiters and camp crew bringing our group total to 66. The majority of folks are porters who are carrying much of our gear, fresh food and most importantly fresh ground coffee! The first day always feels like the toughest as we try to get into the swing of things and find our legs under us. The team did great today and made good time from about 6000' up to 10,000' in about six miles. It took a little over five hours and thankfully didn't rain on us. We have just finished a well cooked meal with curried vegetables, fried chicken breast, potatoes and a nice slice of cake for dessert. Bellies are full and everyone is in their tent getting ready for some well deserved sleep. RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

On The Map

Hi All! The Aconcagua climb is checking in excited to say that we have arrived at our basecamp at Plaza Argentina. The team got an early start so that we could have some help from our mules in crossing the Rio de Vacas, just outside of camp. Over the course of the 3,200' to basecamp, we left tracks for a group of our francophone friends through the rolling hills above the chasm of the Rio Relinchos. The bright white of fresh snow on Ameghino and Aconcagua contrasted with our arid surroundings, and a brilliant blue sky made for spectacular photographs and high spirits. We arrived in the Plaza Argentina to a bodaciously bountiful reception of salami, cheese, olives, and cake from our outfitter. The crew is resting and beginning to acclimate. On tap for tomorrow: our first rest day of the trip! Everyone is well and sends their best. Signing off -The RMI Aconcagua Expedition

After several days of training including a Mountaineering Day School and Technical training day, the RMI Emmons Seminar July 25 - 30 team began their ascent of Mt. Rainier.  Transferring to the White River Entrance the team set off from the trailhead with heavy packs to establish their first night's camp.  With nice temperatures and blue skies they continued their training, establishing camp, practicing crevasse rescue, setting anchors and belays.  The team ascended to Camp Schurman where they established their second camp.  This morning, with an alpine start, the team made a successful ascent to the summit of Mt. Rainier. The nice weather continues for them as they descend back to Camp Schurman. They will spend another night at camp before continuing down to the trailhead tomorrow. We look forward to hearing more about their adventure tomorrow afternoon when they return to Rainier BaseCamp.

Nice work team!

PC: Arianna Drechsler

Monday, March 24, 2025 - 6:02 pm PT

Hello to all our friends and family!

Today we had a rest day in Pheriche but it wasn’t your typical rest day because we still went to over 16,500ft!

I challenged our team to help acclimate by taking a more active rest day. So we woke up early, had a quick breakfast and headed uphill to a peak behind Pheriche called Nangkartshang.

The weather has been a little unsettled with clouds, wind and snow so we said we’d just climb until it didn’t make sense but we got so lucky! Clear skies and insane views greeted us the whole way as we ascended from 14,000ft to over 16,000ft.

I prepped the team before the final rocky summit block, “it’s always windy and cold on top so we won’t stay long and make sure to add all your warm layers” but when we got up there it was so still with no wind at all and the sun beaming down on us. What a treat! We took our time, took lots of photos, and breathed in that thin air.

After stressing our bodies just enough, we headed back down. But let me say, this crew took the spirit of the Himalayan tahr with them and SAILED DOWNHILL. I could barely keep up and we were back in Pheriche in time for lunch.

After lunch, we all rested, read books and relaxed in the warm sun.

A near perfect rest day in Pheriche! Everyone is doing so well.

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the Lobuche team