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Mt. Rainier: Climbing Teams on the summit!

RMI Guides Matias Franics and Seth Burns led their Four Day Climb August 16 - 19 teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reported good conditions with a bit of increased wind and some light precipitation on their descent.  Once back at Camp Muir they will have a short break before continuing the final 4,500' down to Paradise to complete their climb.  They will conclude their program at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon with a celebration ceremony.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Team on the Summit!

Update:10:51 pm PT The team has safely reached the South Col. Everyone is doing well. They are going to take a quick break before continuing down to Camp 2 (Advanced Base Camp). Mark Tucker Update: 6:46 pm PT Mark Tucker reports from Everest Base Camp that RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Seth Waterfall and their Sherpa team, Tshering and Kaji have reached the summit of Mt. Everest! This marks Dave's 15th summit of Mt. Everest and the third time for Seth to have reached the summit. Tshering and Kaji have both made their sixth successful summit of Mt.Everest. The team reported a beautiful day with a cold wind. They will spend about 30 minutes on top before starting their descent. Congratulations to all!

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations, felicidades! 15 th summit!!! Great. Regards from Costa Rica

Posted by: Silke on 5/23/2013 at 7:51 pm

Huge Congratulations!  You guys were patient, waited until the right time, even when all others were making their summit bids, and you always seem to be successful.  Great climbing. Bill Bussey

Posted by: Bill Bussey on 5/23/2013 at 7:20 am


Mt. Shuksan: Stormy Weather Thwarts Climb for Bealer and Team

The Mt. Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier Climb led by RMI Guide James Bealer were unable to make a summit attempt on Mt. Shuskan due to rain and wind. While not the mountain experience the team hoped for, the team's time on the mountain was a true mountain experience. The team is back in town and preparing to warm up over burgers and beers.

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Video: Jim Mora and Roger Goodell Climb Rainier with RMI Guide Ed Viesturs

This is from KING 5 News special coverage about United Way's Climb for the Community up Mount Rainier, which took place July 5-8, 2009. The climb team, which was lead by mountaineering legend Ed Viesturs, included NFL Commissioner Roger Goodell, Seattle Seahawks coach Jim Mora and United Way CEO Jon Fine.
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Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Cotopaxi Summit!

Hello everybody back home this is Casey Grom checking for RMI’s Ecuador Expedition. We are currently on the summit of Cotopaxi. We had a great day, pretty tough conditions, lots of new and loose snow. We made it up in just over 6 hours. Everybody did great. We are hanging in some sunshine right now taking a few photos and are going to be heading down in just a little bit. We will check in again as soon as we get back safely to the hut. We’ll be heading back to Quito tonight. RMI Guide Casey Grom


RMI Guide Casey Grom and the team check in from the summit of Cotopaxi!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Well done team!  I am looking forward to getting the full report when you visit for Xmas Spence.  Feel free to bring what ever amount of snow you can manage to Idaho because we are dying up here.

Posted by: Scott Arnold on 12/9/2011 at 9:54 pm

Nice job bro!

Posted by: JJ on 12/8/2011 at 7:43 pm


Torres del Paine: King & Team hikes to Cuernos Refugio

The traditional patagonia weather finally arrived today. Wind, sun, rain and clouds arrived in different combinations as we hiked into the French Valley. Once up the steep and narrow trail we got some views of the Cuernos (Horns), Paine Grande and a few of the granite spires. After a windy and cold break some snow began to fall at our lunch spot. Big swing from swimming five days ago. We walked to Cuernos Refugio and got to enjoy the views of Lago Nordenskjöld with all its changing turquoise hues. Tomorrow is our last day in the park and we’ll have finished our eight day and ninty-ish mile trek through Torres de Paine.

Thanks for checking in. 

RMI Guide Mike King

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Continue to Enjoy Good Weather and Route Conditions

The Four Day Climb July 2 - 5, 2021 reached the crater rim of Mt. Rainier at 5:30 am today with blue skies above and good route conditions under foot.  The teams, led by RMI Guides JM Gorum and Joe Hoch, enjoyed some time in the crater and spent time taking in the views.  The route remains in good condition with a nice boot pack trail.  Back at Camp Muir the teams will get a short break to repack gear and re-hydrate before descending the final 4,500' to Paradise.

Congratulations to the Four Day Climb team!

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Mountaineering Training | Will I Be Ready? Setting Benchmarks In Your Training

On a personal fitness level, time sometimes seems elastic to me: if I have plenty of time to train, I'll sit around and lolly-gag; tell me I only have a couple of months to get prepared and I'll be up at 5 a.m. training like a prizefighter.    The question of, "Will I be ready?" will ultimately be answered only on the climb. However, we can stack the odds in our favor by creating a tracking system that gives us a snapshot of where we are in the preparation process.   A simple method is to make a graph depicting where we are today and where we need to be for the climb. For this example, I used a January Expedition to 22,841' Aconcagua in Argentina if I started training in October: Aconcagua Training Timeline   This allows me to see: 1. What I'm capable of today (see my post "Setting A Baseline" if you need help with this). 2. What I need to accomplish on my target date.  3. Where I should be during the process.  My experience is that progress is rarely a straight line on a graph and you may be ahead or behind at any given point; but you can see generally what you've achieved and identify what work remains to be done throughout the training period.    So, what if you're running short on time to prepare? This happens often. If the goal is ambitious, we may need to intensify our focus and really adopt the mindset of an athlete.    Some training recommendations if you are short on time to prepare: • Try to establish a sensible progression and use the entire time you have rather than "front load" your training (which could create setbacks or injury).  • If you do have an aggressive training plan, be sure to focus on rest and recovery as well as quality nutrition.  • Make your training as specific as possible: Mountain climbing and hiking are perfect. Cross country skiing, running, Stairmaster, and cycling are all also good. Focus in on these activities to benefit the most from your training.  • Embrace the adventure and focus on the process more than just the result; it's easy to expend a lot of energy thinking only of the summit. By focusing on enjoying my training and doing the best I can each day, I find I enhance my training experience and my overall experience on the climb. Take some time this week to sit down, pull out a pencil and paper, and graph out the training progression you need for your climb. It will give you a clear picture of not only where you need to be for your climb, but also where you need to be in three months, in one month, and even next week. Keep this graph in a convenient place and pull it out every once in a while to check in on yourself. It can be helpful to establish specific, repeatable benchmarks to revisit during your training to measure your progress. Check out RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer's ideas on using benchmarks.   - John Colver    _________                      John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his adventX  brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle. Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
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Mt. Everest Expedition: Difficult Choices When Climbing Mt. Everest

Sara McGahan, Linden Mallory and myself set out from Base Camp just after 5 AM on a final mission through the Khumbu Ice fall. It was meant to be our summit bid. When we reached the first series of ladders over crevasses, we took a break. Linden and I were pleased that we'd reached this point relatively quickly, but it was clear that Sara's mind was not entirely on the day's climbing. She spoke up to say that she wasn't entirely sure she wanted to go through with the planned week-long summit push. We suggested retreating to Base Camp in order to reassess and Sara agreed that would be the best course of action. During the morning at base, Sara bravely grappled with a heavy choice. She wasn't alone, of course, having the counsel of her Dad there in person and her Mom on the phone, but ultimately, the choice was hers to make. In some ways, despite the danger and brutally hard physical work of a summit push, choosing to go on would have been the easier option. Sara made the more difficult choice. She ended her bid to get up Mount Everest at age 16 and she did it with a smile. Bill and Sara discussed things a bit and made clear that they didn't want that decision to end the greater expedition... even though they are the expedition's principal members. After a few more talks, it was decided that Bill and Sara would leave Base Camp by helicopter in the morning, bound for home, while Linden and I, along with Kaji, Tchherring and Dawa, would continue to work toward the summit. Linden and I intend to lighten our packs and to tighten our itinerary some in order to fit in the "weather window" we believe will materialize in a few days. We won't carry nearly as much emergency gear, now that we aren't guiding, but we still want to be responsible Everest citizens... able to help ourselves and our teammates out of a jam and perhaps even to be of use to others in peril. But definitely as we begin this new venture, the packs will be lighter and the pace will be faster. Linden and I will go all the way to Camp 2 tomorrow, we'll rest a day and recheck the forecasts, and then we'll aim to hop directly up to Camp 4 and set out for the summit that same night. There is still the usual amount of mystery in it for us... we don't actually know what the weather will do (our forecasts are good, but the mountain doesn't much care about such things) we don't actually know what our bodies will do. Linden Mallory is a strong and experienced climber and guide, but he will be venturing nearly a vertical mile beyond familiar heights. I've been up top a few times and should enjoy all the benefits of muscle memory and brimming self-confidence, except... my 20 year span of venturing to 28,000 and 29,000 ft has been anything but smooth, easy and predictable. But I want to see that high up world again. I want Linden to see it as well. I would have loved for Bill and Sara to see the sunrise from up there near the top of the world and despite the pride I take in knowing they both came to mature and sensible decisions... I do feel a slight letdown in knowing that "guiding" this time around did not result in standing on top with my clients. On the other hand, my climbers are happy and healthy and excited about seeing their family and their home. They both climbed safely up and down dangerous slopes for weeks on end, reaching ridiculous heights. And they saw a number of spectacular sunrises, sunsets, moonrises and moonsets through gargantuan mountain passes. Sara may write in the coming days about her decision and perhaps it will become clear then as to just how completely we've failed (for now) in our bid to turn her into just another self-absorbed, egotistical, mountain-obsessed, risk-addicted climber. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

dear sweet girl…to me, making this “summit” of a decision is what goes on in life…the truth of how you feel will set you free…i think all those that surround you and support you have done so knowing this experience, summit or no summit is an amazing process to have…it teaches you to know yourself…and that, my dear is a beautiful, natural, amazing thing. You have filled the world with strength and beauty, honesty and love…and that is sa-weeet!

Posted by: nancy on 5/18/2011 at 9:41 am

I so sorry to hear Sara had to make the tough decision to come home slightly early. I was climbing this year aged 19 and came home after I became seriously ill, so I’ve been closely following Sara’s progress and really routing for her! I know it’ll prove to be the right choice, and inevitably you’ve both achieved your main aim- to get back home safe. It takes a stonger person to accept that going for the summit isn’t the right option than it takes to reach the summit! You were clearly a strong climber with a level head and should be so proud of what you achieved. All the best, Beckyx

Posted by: Becky Bellworthy on 5/18/2011 at 8:17 am


Mt. Baker: Summit on the Easton Glacier!

RMI Guide Hannah Smith checked from the Summit of Mt. Baker at 12:04 pm PDT today. The team successfully reached the summit via the Easton Glacier Route. Hannah let us know, that the team is stoked and had a beautiful day of climbing. The team will descend to the trailhead tomorrow. 

Congratulations Team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hannah, Lief and Nick - you did great work with our group. You were consummate professionals and excellent company as well. I look forward to joining you again on a future journey. James

Posted by: James Coley on 10/8/2022 at 4:38 am

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