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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside
Posted by: Dominic Cifelli, Seth Burns, Nicole De Petris
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Tuesday, June 25, 2024 - 10:27 pm PT
Reflection from summit day
14,000’ Camp
Staring At The Headwall. Our Team Summited Denali today! I did not. I take no credit for their achievement, having been a hindrance at best, but I’ve come to love these people and I am inspired by their triumph. Unless you’ve been here, you cannot understand the magnitude of their accomplishment. Logistical. Physical. Emotional. Each member of our team may remember when my quest came to an end on what is arguably the Crux of the West Buttress Route. My anguished cry when my knee hit the ice of the bergschrund and I instantly knew that I had denied myself the Summit. But I pushed on, climbed the fixed ropes of The Headwall, and descended with the team back to our 14,000’ camp. Then, two days later, full of optimism and with a taped up knee, I climbed The Headwall again, plus a little more, as our team pushed for the highest camp. Why? How can we hold the knowledge that something is impossible, it cannot be done, while at the same time holding the conflicting conviction that we can do anything if we just keep striving in the face of insurmountable challenges? Each of you reading this has met your own Denali and you know the answer. That’s just Life. So while I take no credit for their achievements, having been a hindrance at best, I have come to love people and I am inspired by their triumphs. Keep climbing your Headwalls, they are the only paths to your Summits.
RMI Climber Kris Reitz
Tuesday, June 25, 2024 - 11:11 pm PT
Final dispatch:
Waking up this morning, I’m filled with an intense sense of wonder.
“Did we really pull that off?”
The memories of the day before play in mind. The views, the wind, the struggle, the summit.
“Hey team, it’s time to wake up,” our guide Seth rouses us, “we’re gonna try and get out of here around 10:00am.”
I check my watch. It’s just after 8:00. I consider getting up. The ache of the day before confirms that it all wasn’t just a dream. It pulsates through my body, intensified by the lack of oxygen available to us at 17200ft.
Seth asks how we feel, my tent mate Chris replies: “I feel like I climbed a 20000ft mountain.” I laugh, still comfortably in my sleeping bag.
We begin slowly packing the randomly strewn about items that we didn’t care to pack after our 12 hour summit day.
Not much later, we’re on the move again. Our packs are heavy again, a change from the light summit packs we grew accustomed to yesterday. We say our final goodbyes to the friends we made during our brief stay and begin the walk to the narrow balance beam that is the West Buttress I carefully scramble through the granite boulders that line the upper ridge, to my left and right, 3000ft drop offs. We waltz secured by our rope and fixed protection put in long ago. The dance is lento. Each move is precise and requires our complete focus.
Clip, reclip. Clip, reclip. Check the rope isn’t getting caught in the feet of the person in front of you. Clip, reclip. Make a careful move through an awkward position. Clip, reclip. Glance at Foraker or Hunter. Clip, reclip. Finally, we make it through without incident, arriving to the 2000ft, 50° fixed lines.
We slide down carefully. The rope is wrapped around our arms like a cobra squeezing its prey. We make good progress, arriving to the bergschrund much faster than it took us to area of the route. As we continue downward, Chris and I share a laugh as we remember we’re still wearing our long underwear. We make it back to the 14200ft camp where we pause for a while, giving Chris and I the chance to free ourselves from the heat prison surrounding our legs, much to the humour of the rest of our team.
After sorting out the gear we stashed here before heading up, (struggling to figure out how on earth we’d get it into our already full packs), we start marching downward again. We pass sights we remember only in an upward sense. They take on a different feeling, knowing that for some of us, this may be the last time we see them. Windy corner, Thunder ridge, the Peters glacier. All deeply beautiful.
We arrive into the ghost town that is 11000ft camp, with most of the climbers who would populate this place either higher on the mountain, or long gone, returned to civilization Our stay here won’t be long. We plan to move again once the glacier refreezes. Even still, we make set the nylon homes that have housed us for the last 14 nights, one final time.
As we eat our last dinner on the mountain, bagels with salmon and cream cheese, a feeling of sadness begins to creep over us.
In a strange way, as we reminisce about having ate an ungodly amount of quesadillas, or how badly we smell, or funny encounters we had with other climbers en route, it begins to set in this journey is nearing its end.
Soon, all of these moments will become memories. Our mistakes, funny stories. Our hardships, that which built our character. Our triumphs, our legacies.
As we settle into our down bags one final time, the evening air beginning to become cold, an unexplainable emotion begins to emerge. The one perhaps felt when you realize you’re in a memory. Gratitude? Thankfulness? Satisfaction?
Perhaps some things in life are better left unanalyzed.
Thank you, Denali. You have been so, so kind.
RMI Climber Thomas Goossen
New Post Alerts:
Denali Expedition June 9, 2024
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Devin Guffey, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
May 27, 2023 9:00PM PT
Hello all,
Not a whole lot to report today since today was a whole lot of chilling. We took today to rest up and review skills for tomorrow’s carry. It will be our first time on the fixed lines and doing running belays. The team looks ready, along with a bit nervous and excited to go a bit higher. Once again, fingers crossed for good weather especially as the clouds begin to roll in from both above and below.
Talk tomorrow,
Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team
Anna - great to see you’re on the climb and that team is making good progress. I know Hannah has it under control!
Posted by: Alex Grumman on 5/28/2023 at 8:53 am
Great to hear all the plans for the next few days, Anna. Our heartfelt thanks to Hannah for planning carefully and taking weather conditions into such consideration. Also nice to hear that we aren’t the only parents sprouting more gray hairs and adding worry lines! Continuing to pray for a safe summit and trip home for all. Love, Mom & Dad
Posted by: Kathy Hern on 5/28/2023 at 8:19 am
On The Map
Love the pictures and updates. Looks like you’re getting all 4 seasons on one trip. Can’t wait to hear about your Friday hike - hoping for clear weather and great views!
Posted by: Kim Beatrice on 7/12/2019 at 8:04 am
We’re suffering through weather with temperatures in the 80’s while you’re up there!! Safe climbing and hoping for less wind.
Posted by: Carolyn Rossi on 7/11/2019 at 5:15 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
On The Map
Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 18,000'
On The Map
Happy New Year Beng Hoe. It is so cool being able to follow the expedition through the blog. All the more so as we are able to see you in the a number of the photos, even if it is the back of your head! It is so beautiful out there. It must be amazing to be spending New Year up there. Miss you. Helen, Laura and Andrew
Posted by: Helen Lim on 1/2/2014 at 8:45 pm
Hey Steve and team,
I’ll trade you some of your heat for the 18 inches of snow and sub zero wind chills we’re expecting in Boston over the next 24 hours!
Hike well and be safe.
Posted by: Bill Gately on 1/2/2014 at 3:57 am
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Dustin Wittmier, Devin Guffey
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Tuesday June 16, 2021 - 8:30 pm PT
Good evening,
Higher and higher we go! We continued moving gear uphill today. We left camp in the morning and made our way up motorcycle hill. It’s a rather steep hill, very much in your face. But with good cramponing and pressure breathing we made it to the top. Next, we cruised up squirrel hill, across the polo fields, around windy corner to our cache site. Some firm snow made digging our deep hole difficult but the effort is worth it so the ravens don't get at our food. The team is feeling good and looking great. We are all very excited to move to 14k camp tomorrow. There is a weather system possibly hitting the mountain Wednesday night so it will be nice to get out of 11k camp and up to 14k camp in case it produces a bunch of snow. Plus, a new scenery and home will be a fun change as well. It’s the little things that bring you joy on mountain.
Goodnight,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team
I’m so exited for the entire team and the tremendous progress you have already made. I wish I could have been there with you Julia and I think about it every day as the memories we shared together from Reiner are as vibrant as if it was yesterday. I love you to the end of the universe and back and the entire family are routing for a wonderful experience out there together with your team. Älskar dig för alltid!! Pappa.
Posted by: Stefan Johansson on 6/16/2021 at 12:40 pm
Happy Anniversary Hector! Lots of love from NY
Posted by: Anna Haring on 6/16/2021 at 11:35 am
Congratulations again to team Cifelli! Weather was definitely on your side! Appreciation for RMI’s top notch guides - doing what u love is no easy task in your line of work - and your personal encouragement & push was so required for Thomas in the home stretch! Rest up now! You’ve earned it!
Posted by: Cheryl goossen on 6/28/2024 at 10:50 am
So sorry to hear this Kris, I know this is probably a hard way to finish off what you have worked so hard for. You still have accomplished so much and have so much to be proud of! What an adventure! You are and always have been the strongest, toughest person I know. You have always been such a great role model, and I know you gave it everything. I’m so proud of you and can’t wait to hear all of the stories when you get back down!
Posted by: Nicholas Reitz on 6/26/2024 at 8:53 am
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