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Behind The Scenes: Keeping Up With The Climbers

It sounds pretty romantic, and lots of people envy my job. And, I must admit, I'm pretty happy with what I do for a living, and count my blessings every day. But working as an expedition photographer is not always a piece of cake. This goes for me shooting stills, as well as Gerry Moffatt, Kent Harvey, and John Griber shooting our video footage. While I cannot speak exactly for them, I can give an idea of what my days on the hill are like. Being a photographer on an expedition does not really put you into a special category. There are no chairlifts or trams waiting for us; we must climb the mountain just like anyone else, acclimating, moving up and down, and capturing images along the way. Along with the standard equipment all of us - Ed, Peter, Melissa, Dave, Seth - carry on the hill, I also have my photo equipment. I've always been a Nikon shooter, and this is my 6th Everest expedition using Nikon gear. So in my pack is a Nikon D300 camera, chosen for its superior image quality complemented by reasonable size and weight. In addition to the D300 body, I have a handful of lenses: a Nikon 18-200mm, Nikon 50mm, Sigma 10-20mm, and a Nikon 80-200. This selection gives me a fantastic range while keeping the weight reasonable. I also bring along my Nikon SB-800 flash unit and an SC-28 remote cord for filling in faces and dark areas in this contrasty environment. Oh, and of course, extra batteries, cleaning supplies, a variety of filters, and a tripod. My personal M.O. on all expeditions has always been to disrupt the flow of climbing as little as possible while shooting. Certainly there are times when the environment and risk enable me to set up shots and choreograph the scene. But, more often than not, my style is to catch what I can by moving ahead of the climbers and capturing them in real time, in real situations. (You can imagine trying to ask climbers in the Khumbu Icefall to stop for a few minutes under tons of tilting seracs while I compose a shot - not even nice to contemplate!) This style, while my preference, creates some challenges, as I am in a constant game of leapfrog, setting up a shot, shooting, repacking my gear, and shuffling ahead as fast as possible to get ahead of the climbers and find the next spot for a good image. Not easy, but it is an added challenge I strangely relish. The other challenge with expedition photography is the need to be constantly thinking, looking around at the terrain with a creative angle, trying to find a new perspective on the environment at hand. While this terrain is so spectacular that pointing and shooting often works, the nut for me to crack is how to find a new perspective, how to tell a different story in a single frame and show what perhaps has not been shown before. This requires constant attention to the task at hand, for moments missed may never come again. But, again, this is a cerebral game which adds depth and enjoyment to the climbing at hand. When looking at the end of the day, I must admit I long a bit for the days of film. Way back then, in the late 1990s, we'd shoot film during the day, pack it away after sunset, and the day was done- but, no longer. Digital, despite its great benefits, has caused quite a bit more work for us photographers. When the day is done, I now take my compact flash cards into our production tent, fire up my solid-state Asus laptop, download my images onto a hard drive, make a backup copy on another drive, and then edit the day's work. Select images are spotted for dust and blemishes, captioned, resized, saved to a thumb drive, and handed over to our field producer, Cherie Silvera, for transfer via satellite phone with the day's text and video dispatch. It all makes for a long day, to say the least, but, I wouldn't change a thing about it. I love the honor of capturing the amazing people on our team and the stunning environment, and the chance to share those images and moments with a greater audience. It was, many years ago, images by Ansel Adams, Galen Rowell, Barry Bishop, and other greats of mountain photography that first inspired me to tread in the mountain realm. Their images shared with me a place I could scarcely imagine, bringing a new world to my doorstep in Topsfield, Massachusetts. It was through their lenses that a passion was discovered and ignited within me, and my one hope as I photograph our team and our climb is that I may share that same sense of wonder and enjoyment that hit me long ago. Enjoy the images, and climb on, wherever your trail may lead...
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Denali Expedition: Smith and the All-Women’s arrive on the Kahiltna Glacier!

Thursday, May 18, 2023 10:55pm PDT

Hello from the Kahiltna Glacier!

What a busy day it was. We loaded planes and were in the air by 9am. It was chilly morning in Talkeetna, warmed by bour last Lattes and Michael but man was it hot on our walk. I thought it was cold in May. We took off downhill on what is called heart break hill. It is not heart breaking yet but it will be on our return. But that is a way away from now. Everything is so big around us you have little idea how far everything is. Is it close or is it miles away? We walked for 5.5 hours to reach our camp at the base of ski hill. It is a tough walk with heavy sleds and heavy packs. You really enter a pain cave to push through. One stretch is your quads, the next your hip flexors, the next your calves, something is always uncomfortable. But hey that is what we signed up for!

After setting up tents and moving in we gathered for dinner. We carried in pizza from Mountain High Pizza, and it was delicious. We topped off the night with a hot drink and the crawled into our sleeping bags. It’s a marvelous feeling to lay down and release the body. Tomorrow we will carry gear to just over 10k feet and then return to our camp for the night. The lighter loads will feel a lot better going up ski hill. Weather is moving in so fingers crossed it stays at bay till we return to camp or even better till the following evening so we can get to 11k camp. The team is looking good, and morale is high.

We are all excited to keep moving uphill.

Goodnight all,

RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Remember Corey, the only thing to fear is fear itself. That and frozen pizza. Stay warm!

Anna + Bennett

Posted by: Anna Nolan on 5/19/2023 at 8:04 pm

Go Aunt Corey, Go!

Posted by: Jack McKenzie on 5/19/2023 at 6:55 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Continue to Hunker Down

Tuesday, May 17, 2023 - 4:07 PM PT

Our team is still hunkered down at 9,400' in a blizzard. At least 2 feet of snow has fallen,with lots of drifting. Visibility is near zero. We're safe and trying to remain positive from the confines of our tents. The weather forecast hints at a break in the storm tomorrow. Our fingers are crossed that things ease up and we'll be able to make some upward progress soon.

We'll keep you posted!

RMI Guide Mike Walter

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The sun came out today- so I am hoping you were able to climb!  Keep going!  Thinking of all of you!  Sending some serious good vibes toward the mountain!  Be well!  Susan

Posted by: Susan on 5/17/2023 at 7:07 pm

All the Rotarians from Lee’s Summit Sunrise Sunset Rotary Club are cheering the entire Walter team including fellow Rotarian, Scott Crist.  Conquer the mountain….stay the course….get home safely.

Posted by: Elaine Metcalf on 5/17/2023 at 10:38 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Wait Out the Weather at 11,000 ft

Thursday, May 20, 2021 - 9:30 pm PT

We spent another day sitting out the wind and snow at 11,000' Camp. We killed time playing trivia for hours in the cook tent. We will continue to patiently wait for the best weather window to move up to our 14,000' Camp. Thanks for following along!

RMI Guide MIke Walter

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Best of luck to you all!
Happy Birthday Tom!

Posted by: Dennis Kinsey on 5/22/2021 at 7:24 am

Give Saint Rainier my love!!

Posted by: Tk Ito on 5/21/2021 at 10:00 pm


Aconcagua: Scott & Team On the Fourth Day… We Took a Rest

It’s day four of our Aconcagua expedition. Our first rest day for those at home following along. We all got a good sleep in and enjoyed an extended breakfast of eggs, pancakes, and lots of coffee this morning while discussing the itinerary of the next few days. Even though we call it a rest day, there is never a day on a mountaineering expedition when we are doing nothing. While the group enjoyed plenty of down time a good portion of the day was spent packing for our carry tomorrow, sorting group food, going on a short hike to stretch the legs and the lungs, and getting in our park-mandated doctor visit to make sure all climbers are adjusting to the new altitude appropriately. Spoiler alert! Everyone in the group passed their physical and the doctor gave us all the thumbs up to keep cruising up hill. Tomorrow will be the toughest day for the group so far as we shoulder packs and climb to Camp 1 at 16,400ft to cache some of our gear before descending back to basecamp to continue the acclimatization process. I have no doubt this determined group of climbers will perform their task without trouble. Everyone is feeling great and ready for more!

RMI Guide Nick Scott

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Best to you Mark. Reading what you all are doing. Praying that you all enjoy the trip. Love Mom

Posted by: Cornelia Miller on 1/28/2020 at 9:24 am

Mmm pancakes! Go Daryly Dooo, eat them up! We are all cheering for you in Coronado! Good job team! Hoping for good weather tmw!

Posted by: Katie on 1/25/2020 at 5:10 pm


Aconcagua: Scott & Team at Casa de Piedra

The second day of the trek took us ever higher into the desert valley on our way to Aconcagua Basecamp. The trail wound it’s way through the high desert of the Andes, past scrub brush, and the occasional Guanaco. Today also provided us with the first views of the mountain. It was a beautiful bluebird day and the upper reaches of Aconcagua were in full view as they towered over the surrounding peaks, including Amighino, a mountain that tops out at the same elevation as Kilimanjaro. Tomorrow we make the final push to basecamp at 13,800 feet and start acclimatizing for the upper mountain.

RMI Guide Nick Scott

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: Young, Davis & Team Summit on Beautiful Day

The Four Day Climb August 6 -9 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Robby Young and Alan Davis. Robby reported a beautiful day with no winds and a great route. The team enjoyed some time on the summit before descending from the crater rim en route to Camp Muir. The teams will continue their descent to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's climbers!
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Thanks again for for the experience! Not all the way to the top for me, but still an unbelievable view and great challenge. You guys are professional, empathetic, and caring of your clients, and one couldn’t ask for anything more. I’ll be back for the challenge, and we’ll get it done.
Thanks,
Tony.

Posted by: Anthony Brune on 8/12/2019 at 5:53 pm

Have you guys made it back to Paradise? It’s almost 9pm.

Posted by: Paige Cline on 8/9/2019 at 7:37 pm


Denali Custom Expedition: Hahn & Team Ascend to High Camp, Ready for Summit Attempt

Friday, July 5, 2019 - 9:46 PM PT Finally, the perfect weather arrived! We made good use of this clear, calm, sunny, relatively warm day as we motivated on up to 17,200' Camp. The alarms at 14 Camp went off at 4:30 and we were walking uphill in pleasantly cool shadows by 6:45. We had the advantage of having traveled this terrain before, we had the added advantage that other teams had tracked it in for us yesterday following the days of new and blowing snow. And finally we had the huge advantage of the extra acclimatization days and nights spent at 14,000. We were on the beautiful crest of the West Buttress proper before the morning sun found us. And we were up Washburn’s Thumb and taking a break close to 16,900 when we greeted Mike Haugen’s victorious team making their way carefully down the ridge crest. It wasn’t long after that -at 12:40- when we rolled into the camp they’d just left for us at 17,200. The early arrival and pre-built camp meant we had a very easy afternoon of resting and drinking water. We tried to limit our time out in the intense high altitude sun, but every now and then one of our climbers or guides could be found at the easily accessible edge of camp, staring wide-eyed at the drop down to 14 Camp or the bigger drop to the Kahiltna Glacier... or to the bigger drop down to Anchorage. There is still smoke in the air, but I didn’t hear many complaints about limited views. In late afternoon we sat down to talk about the summit attempt we’ll make in the morning. The forecast could not be better. We’re feeling quite lucky and optimistic. Even so, it will be a tough climb and it will work us hard. Every climber took an extra portion at dinner with the big day in mind. Dead calm at 8:40 PM, sun still high in the sky, all for tonight. Stay tuned. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Forbidden Peak: Fixmer and Team Reach Summit

In the North Cascades, RMI Guide Lindsay Fixmer and team reached the summit of Forbidden Peak via the West Ridge. Lindsay reported perfect weather during their summit bid and good route conditions. Way to Climb!
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Mt. Rainier: Summit Teams and Emmons Seminar on Top!

RMI Guide Tyler Jones radioed at 7 am with his Four Day Summit Climb on their descent after reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier earlier this morning. Tyler reported moderate winds and a cloud cap on the summit. As the teams descended they were reaching the base of the clouds. The second Four Day Summit Climb team led by Geoff Schellens was also descending with Tyler. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer reached the crater rim around 7:30 am. The team was going to spend to a few minutes on top before starting their descent. They will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain. Congratulations to today's teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Fantastic! So proud of you. Gave a safe descent.

Posted by: Lydia on 7/3/2014 at 2:20 pm

Congrats! So proud of you guys.

Posted by: Ellen Seib on 7/2/2014 at 1:59 pm

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