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RMI Guide Seth Waterfall with the Four Day Summit Climb June 11 - 14 called early this morning from Camp Muir. The team was forced to abort their summit bid due to high winds today. The team will be descending from Camp Muir to Paradise this morning.
Namaste,
Early this morning we loaded all of our gear up and drove through the slowly waking streets streets of Kathmandu to the airport for our flight to the mountains. Arriving well before sun up we found the airport bustling with sleepy but anxious trekkers. Four days of bad weather had prevented any flights from getting to Lukla, the gateway to the Khumbu, and people were understandably frustrated from spending day after day at the airport waiting to fly. But thankfully for us, the weather chose to break this morning and we walked straight through the waiting area and onto one of the first flights to Lukla. Our mountain flight, in a small twin otter designed for STOL runways - Short Take Off Landing - was amazingly smooth and we had gorgeous views of the Himalaya as we flew eastward from Kathmandu to the Everest Region.
Landing in Lukla is always, well, exciting. A narrow strip of asphalt, the Lukla airport is built straight into the hillside, perched at angle of 10 degrees or so, and only a couple of hundred meters long. As you approach all that is visible over the pilots' shoulders is a rapidly approaching mountainside before the strip appears below the wheels, the plane touches down and comes to a screaming halt, all in the the span of a few football fields.
We left the busy, congested streets of Kathmandu, flew past some of the world's greatest peaks, and landed on a narrow mountain airstrip in the heart of the Himalaya, all by 8:30 in the morning! In Lukla we stepped from the plane right onto the stone lined footpaths of the Khumbu where the trekking begins. We took advantage of the time needed to unload the plane and finalize our bags to enjoy a cup of tea and pasty from the local bakery while admiring the stunning mountains around us.
By midmorning we were on the trail, with the sun shining and a few clouds hanging amongst the highest mountains, making their summits appear to float in the sky above us. We made our way along the long, gradual descending traverse from the mountainside village of Lukla to the bottom of the Khumbu Valley along the banks of the Dudh Kosi. The trail took us along lines of neatly stacked stone walls between fields of wheat, lettuce and cabbage, through little villages tucked between the mountains and the river, and past banks of prayer wheels and stacks of mani stones - stone tablets engraved with Buddhist prayers. While the walking is quite benign, the surroundings are overwhelming with the combination of soaring peaks and fascinating Sherpa life that has carved a rich culture into these mountains. The group was thrilled to finally be here and walking after so many days of travel and moved very well today, taking to the trails easily and taking advantage of the great weather to snap plenty of photos.
Tonight we are staying in a small teahouse in Phakding on the banks of the Dudh Kosi - meaning milky river due to its silky blue/white color from the glacial sediment it carries. Tomorrow we climb from the valley floor to the trading center of Namche Bazaar where yak trains from Tibet bring in goods to exchange with the Sherpa and Nepalis of the surrounding area.
The teams sends their best to everyone back home. We will check in from Namche tomorrow.
Wednesday, June 21, 2023 - 7:19 pm PT
Our night of snow storms was briefly broken by clear skies and stunning views, at least for the 2am night owls. By 7, back to snow and low visibility, thus another rest day.
The team finally woke at a leisurely 8am, and gathered in the cook tent for an extraordinary breakfast. Hard at work, our tireless guides had put together pan-fried breakfast burritos that would give any cafe a run for its money. No cap. Seth may consider an alternate career as Chipotle’s chief burrito roller. Sated and happy, the group later headed out during a brief weather interlude to practice crampon skills. The next days of the climb will necessitate these on the steeper and icier terrain. With no one stabbed or stepped on, the outing was considered a success. Relaxation ensured the remainder of the afternoon as movies were watched, books were read, and an unlikely duet belted out classics by The Who.
We are well rested and ready to hopefully cache just past Windy Corner tomorrow, and continue our journey upwards.
RMI climber Alex Smith
Thursday, 5/25/2023 10:21pm PDT
Good evening,
It was up in the air if we would get to move today. The forecast called for isolated showers and some wind and you just do not know what will come of it. Fortunately for us we woke to calm weather. We made fast work of packing up and tearing down camp. Once again, we conquered Motorcycle Hill and Squirrel hill. By the time we got to the Polo Fields a light snow began but not much more. The storm clouds seem to be stuck on another peak. As we walked further and further uphill they stayed at bay, clouds came and went and slow lightly floated down. Windy corner held to its name, but we pushed through. It was a long and grueling day, but we made it to 14,000’ camp. It feels good to be here even with sore and tired bodies.
Tomorrow we will sleep in!
RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team
Hello world,
We woke up to crystal clear skies last night, which hasn’t been the norm this season here in the
Cordillera Blanca. But this beautiful night so happened to coincide with our climb of Pisco...just our luck! It was a really long day to say the least. It’s a tricky walk for the first several hours just to reach the glacier; up and over the moraine, across a boulder covered rock glacier, and up steep trail and slabs, all done in the dark. The stars were out which made for some wonderful views at breaks. A few more hours of dark while ascending snow and ice and the we finally saw some sun...which proved to be one of those classic Cordillera Blanca sunrises that are hard to describe. Just spectacular! A few more hours and we found ourselves just under 19,000’, on the summit of Pisco. We were above a thick cloud deck and the highest peaks of the Range were penetrating the clouds all around us. It was a special moment for this team who put in a lot of hard work and dedication into their climbing adventure in Peru. We stayed on top and soaked it all in for almost an hour before we walked down into the clouds for a long retreat back to Base Camp. All in all, 12.5 hours, Base Camp to Summit to Base Camp. We took the afternoon to get super tranquilo, as tomorrow, our journey back to civilization begins.
RMI Guide Robby Young, Alfie, William and Team ‘Fuerte’
Friday, July 13, 2018 - 8:07 PM PT
Greetings!
Today, around 7:45am, your
ESS-Peru Team was standing on top of Pisco Oeste! Due to weather yesterday, we made the climb from Base Camp at 15,200’ rather than moving camp higher on the mountain. The ‘audible’ paid off, and we were lucky to spend most of our 12-hour day of climbing under clear skies! The views from Pisco are famous in the Cordillera Blanca, as you’re surrounded on all sides by some of the highest mountains in the range. We spent a good while on the summit today, just below 19,000’, enjoying our last summit of the trip to its fullest. The climbing was superb to boot. The unsettled weather over the past few days laid down a fresh coat of light snow throughout the range. What a treat it was to break trail above 18,000’! After our climb, most of us settled into our tents all afternoon, recovering from our long day. Tomorrow, the comforts of city living await in Huaraz. We’ll send pics when we arrive! Until then, buenos noches.
RMI Guides Robby Young, Alan Davis, William, and Peru Team ‘Cuy’
Our team made the
summit of Mt. Elbrus! It was an interesting weather day. It wasn't bad but it wasn't good. The wind and the cold challenged everyone including myself.
Our team did a fantastic job motivating each other and looking after one another. I was really proud to climb with all of them and they all deserve a huge congratulations!
We are now safely down back in the ski town of Cheget. A well deserved rest after a good Russian meal is in store!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
June 25, 2014 - 11:35pm PT
A rainy and grey morning in Talkeetna didn't stop our team from a seven o'clock breakfast meeting at Talkeetna's great Roadhouse. We were primed and ready for our important orientation at the
Talkeetna Ranger Station at 8:30. Our climbers were honored to have Roger Robinson himself give the presentation. Roger has been climbing Denali and rescuing Denali climbers for close to four decades now. Then it was out to the K2 Aviation hangar where we spread out our gear and got down to the nuts and bolts of figuring out exactly what to bring on the climb and what to leave behind. It took much of the afternoon to sort gear and to get it all weighed, inventoried and ready for flying. So it became an "indoors" day, which was just fine. Rain kept falling and there was precious little flying going on out at the normally bustling Talkeetna Airport. The team got together finally for what we hope will be our last dinner in town for some time. It was a fine feast, but we'd just as soon be on climbing rations when supper time rolls around tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide
Dave Hahn
It's a cowboy lifestyle. Our Aconcagua team is currently sitting by a campfire under the Andean stars telling stories and enjoying a little of the good life. Sometimes it's nice to slow down, look around and enjoy the good life.
Yes, we are on a high altitude mountaineering expedition. However, this is part of that adventure. We can hear a Gaucho..."cowboy" shoeing a mule. These mules go through a lot of hard work getting all our food and gear to base camp. And it's nice yo see how the cowboys look after their animals.
Tomorrow we will arise to another sunny day as the team hikes into
Aconcagua Basecamp. We are all excited to arrive and settle in permanently. We will also be a little sad to say goodbye to the cowboys who are like family to us.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
Hi Everyone!
We are enjoying a relaxing evening here at the beautiful
La Casa Sol near the city of Otavalo.
We left the comforts of Quito this morning and headed into the mountains (where many of us actually feel more comfortable!) for our second acclimatization hike. As we watched the city disappear in the rear view mirror we traded well paved roads for cobblestones and washboard. The van bumped along, and our driver skillfully negotiated the hazards of rural driving... while we all fought the urge to hold our breath and cross our fingers. Maybe we should have, because our luck soon ran out and Friday the 13th delivered us a logistical sucker punch.
With a loud crack, our vehicle let us know it was done going uphill for the day. A dislodged cobblestone had broken the axel and stopped us, quite suddenly, in our tracks.
Fortunately, our group has the perfect easy going attitude, and after getting the baggage and van transfer sorted out, we shouldered our daypacks and set off for some slightly more oxygenated exercise. Nearly three hours and five miles later we arrived at the trailhead!
One of our local guides, Esteban (nicknamed Topo), had been busy reorganizing our logistics while we strolled, and he and a few others arrived to our rescue shortly thereafter in shining Toyota Hilux's.
Delivered safely to our hacienda we enjoyed a delicious dinner and are now all busy packing our gear and getting organized and prepared to tackle our first big objective. Wish us luck as we travel towards Cayambe tomorrow!
RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall
On The Map
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Safe travels moving upward!
Posted by: Jenni on 6/22/2023 at 11:49 am
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