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Most Popular Entries


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Have Snowy Rest Day at 11,000ft

Wednesday, May 24, 2023 - 10:2 pm PT

Hello readers,

Today we took a rest day. We watched teams pack up as the clouds rolled in and out and snow trickled down. All day snow has pitter pattered against our tents. For most of the day we were engulfed by all white. Teams rolled in from below and from above bundled up and looking a little weathered. The hope is to move tomorrow but the forecast isn't looking the most promising. It would not make sense to journey through snow, wind, and single digit temps to set up a brand new camp. If the weather improves and holds we will move up, otherwise we will weather this storm here at 11,000' Camp. Send all the good weather vibes our way!

Goodnight all,

RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Hannah! I am sending all the good weather vibes you and Team Tata need to climb high!!! All the best!!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 5/26/2023 at 3:04 am

Sending you all the good weather magic ✨ So proud enjoy every minute!

Posted by: Allie Bonnom on 5/25/2023 at 4:23 pm


Mexico: Wittmier and Team Summit Ixta and look forward to Tacos

With dust in our eyes (it hasn’t snowed here since early January) and a dream in our hearts (no matter how dirty and tired we are, we all continue wanting it), we awoke at 12:45am this morning to climb Iztaccíhuatl (Ixta). Actually, we were all awake around 10:45pm to overhear the saga of two of our climbers trying to get a mouse out of their tent. Either way, these alpine starts always seem to come a touch too early.

Our day started with a sleepy ascent of “The Knees” section of the route. Once atop “The Knees”, there was a moderate wind that stuck around all day. Most of us wore parkas for nearly the entire climb; it was chilly but beautifully clear. Once the sun came up, we could clearly pick out skyscrapers in downtown Mexico City, which is unassumingly, the fifth largest city in the world.

The group powered through cold, wind and dust and everyone who made the attempt today also reached the summit! Congrats to this bus full of climbers who will enjoy their well-deserved Tacos Arabe in Puebla this evening.

Dustin

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

BEAUTIFUL sky, those clouds omg! hope yall are enjoying some of the most well-earned tacos on the planet right now :D may all your future rests be mouse-free and your summits be as gorgeous as this one!

Posted by: Corey on 2/16/2023 at 7:54 am

Hey Dustin! Thank you for all the updates! Brings back such cool memories! All the Best to yopu and your team for your next climb !!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 2/16/2023 at 3:48 am


Aconcagua: Smith & Team Arrive at Trek Camp 1, Roughing it!

We woke in our beds ready to start the day. We ate breakfast, grabbed our duffels, and loaded the van. A quick 45 minute drive (there was air breaking being done by all) brought us to Penitentes. We weighed our duffels for the mules and reloaded the van to bring to the trailhead. The team made quick work of today's hike. Lulls of no breeze made for a hot walk but when the wind did hit it it was the best feeling. A couple rest breaks and some frogger with another team got us to camp. To say we are roughing it would be a lie. We enjoyed melon and nuts for a snack at a picnic table waiting for our mule team to arrive. For dinner was Carne Asada, chorizo, potatoes, cabbage salad, bread and wine.  No complaints over here. Things will get tougher, but not just yet. Tomorrow is another day hiking along the Vacas River. Weather was good today and hopefully good tomorrow.

Good night all,

RMI Guides Hannah, Ben, Dan and team

Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Waiting Anxiously to Fly

Thursday, June 3, 2021 - 11:37 am PT

We woke up early this morning to try to get the first flight slot out this morning, and optimistically we got our boots on and loaded up the planes. Unfortunately, as things often happen in Alaska, we got turned around just as we were entering the Alaska Range due to low visibility. We are now back in Talkeetna anxiously awaiting our next opportunity to fly. Stay tuned.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Steve and Alan (and everyone else), here’s to some bluebirds in your immediate future.  Hope you’re enjoying your hangar hangout time!

Posted by: John Schampel on 6/4/2021 at 7:00 pm

Jack and Nick, no matter what, you look cool!

Posted by: Barb and John The Parents on 6/4/2021 at 3:06 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams Summit After Lightning Storm

The Four Day Climb September 5 - 8 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Andy Bond. The guides reported cold temperatures this morning with winds 15 mph and a dusting of new snow on the upper mountain. Mother nature put on quite a show last night with thunder and lightning throughout the area followed by some serious rain. We are glad the timing of the storm happened once the teams were at Camp Muir and cleared enough for them to make it to the summit today. Once back at Camp Muir the teams will continue to Paradise and transfer to Rainier BaseCamp. This afternoon they will conclude their program with a short celebration. Congratulations to today's climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

WTG dad! So proud! Can’t wait to see pictures!

Posted by: Jennifer C Hitz on 9/8/2019 at 5:00 pm

Good job, Proud of you!

Posted by: Bobby & Kristi on 9/8/2019 at 12:53 pm


Mountaineering Training | Steady State Workouts

Building an endurance base takes more than just long easy-paced workouts. Long workouts create the muscular efficiency to deal with long miles, but moderate intensity intervals and steady state workouts are important for building a solid endurance circulatory system that, in concert with your long workouts, makes up your endurance base. A great aspect of steady state training is that you can incorporate it in a variety of training mediums: running, mountain biking, road biking, swimming, rowing, or hiking.  

A steady state workout encompasses a sustained period of hard effort, paced just under what you would consider your race pace or the maximum pace that you can sustain for a given distance. Sustained efforts between twenty minutes and an hour and fifteen minutes have been shown to be most effective for this type of training. There is an obvious difference in pace between a twenty-minute effort and an hour plus effort: the goal is to sustain the pace that you start the workout at all the way until the end of the workout. The pace is typically about 10% less than your maximum effort over a similar time period. You can use a variety of methods to measure your pace and success of the workout: heart rate monitors, your minutes per mile, or for those with more experience, basing your pace on perceived effort or feel, are all effective methods. Though the pace is below your maximum effort, this workout is uncomfortable, and one of the biggest challenges is to stay with the workout mentally and maintain the pace throughout without letting the pace drop. This mental component is also great training for climbers, since this is exactly the mental toughness that you need in the midst of a tough stretch of terrain.  

Note: As the intensity of your workouts increase, the importance of a quality warm-up and cool-down cannot be overstated. This is a really important aspect for preventing injuries.

Steady state workouts provide a couple of key training objectives. Accomplished over several months as part of an endurance building block, these workouts increase cardiac output (the amount of blood pumped by the heart), decrease resting heart rate, and increase lactate threshold. To increase cardiac output, your body is stimulated to increase the capillary network that delivers oxygenated blood to your muscles, to increase the capacity of existing capillaries, and to increase your blood volume. These factors help your circulatory system to deliver oxygen and nutrients to your muscles and remove waste products. An increase in your lactate threshold indicates that your body is able to remove lactate efficiently at higher levels of effort, so that you can exercise harder and longer before fatiguing. Finally, a drop in resting heart rate indicates that your heart is operating more efficiently, delivering blood to your muscles with less effort.  

The training gains from incorporating steady state training into your routine will help you push longer and harder in the mountains, and the ability to move more blood that contains more oxygen will do nothing but help with the effects of altitude as well! These are difficult workouts, but keep your head in the game and push hard all the way through the end and you’ll be amazed at your endurance gains!

_____

Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hello Jon! I am actually looking for training information for Mt. Rainier, next June, 2019. I came across your comment posted in January of 2018, re: Mt. Kilimanjaro. My son’s girlfriend and her aunt just completed Kilimanjaro!! There were a couple 53 and approx. 55 year old women on this climb; including my son’s gf’s aunt! It was challenging; but they did it! I think you can access the notes from the climb. Go for it! I am looking to get strong and ready for Mt. Rainier next June; I will be 61, I totally understand your questions! :-) Hope you got to move forward on this, and either have since completed Mt. Kilimanjaro, or will soon!

Posted by: Shelby Schneider on 9/19/2018 at 5:55 pm

I am a previous customer of RMI, having climbed Rainier a few years ago.
I am interested in the Kili trek.
What is the average age of the group, typically?
I will be 64 in August.
I dont want to travel half way around the world and spend all that $$$$ and not complete the mission! I dont want to be the guy ‘holding up the expedition’ so to speak.
What is your feeling about the trek vs. my age
PS: I am in good physical condition, and work out daily.

Thanks

Posted by: Jon Mitovich on 1/18/2018 at 1:28 pm


Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Wrap it Up

June 23, 2014 - 2:10 PM PT The day, yesterday, dawned cold and windy again, seemingly the weather theme for the entire trip. We decided to launch out of 11k camp anyway, with the siren song of airplane rides motivating our packing. When all the kits were loaded into duffels, we started the Kahiltna Shuffle in whiteout conditions, a stiff breeze keeping the temps cool despite the hard work of dragging big sleds downhill. Soon we passed our friends who were camped at 9500', and stopped in for a quick hello as the weather got just a little better. We continued down the glacier under improving skies, with only one or two minor freak-outs over the cumbersome sleds that threatened to take us out at the knees. Finally the sun broke through, and the last grind up Heartbreak Hill was about as hot as anywhere on earth. But with the blue skies, we knew that the planes were flying - and that kept us moving right into base camp. Within about 10 minutes, our K2 Aviation Otter had landed, and we loaded up the kit and let internal combustion take over. The evening wrap-up by the Susitna River was a special event, and Denali even came out from behind the clouds to give us full closure. It has been an incredible adventure from the very beginning, and while the actual climbing is over, the memories and experiences we've shared will remain. Thanks for following along and for all the support along the way! RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congrats to the team! I can’t wait to hear more about the trip and see more pictures. Love you Jake and hope to see you soon

Posted by: Bonnie Garfield on 6/24/2014 at 8:33 am

Tyler, Garrett and Geoff….well done and thank you from all of the John Stenderup family.  The RMI experience for John included weather adversity and other circumstances that will be life long lessons for all of your teams.  Your superb training enabled some to summit and prevented possible disaster for others.  I, and I hope John also, will forever retain “the summit is for the ego and the journey is for the soul” incantation.  Thank you.  Best Regards, Kent Stenderup

Posted by: Kent Stenderup on 6/23/2014 at 10:13 pm


Aconcagua: Justman & Team Carry to Camp 2

All the way to Camp 2! Our team did a fantastic job carrying some group gear and personal gear up to 18,000 feet. The winds were still present as they kicked snow off into the air of surrounding peaks and ridges. However, they were not as strong as yesterday. As the team rounded the corner and entered the col, they were treated to their first view of the high Andes range of Argentina. Breathtaking doesn't describe it. We are now back at Camp 1 resting and recovering after a great day in the mountains. P.S. - Happy Birthday Josh!!! From Denise. I'm wearing my new socks!! :) RMI Guides JJ Justman, Mike King & Steve Gately

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Fingers crossed for good weather to Camp 3 and beyond. I hope to catch you in Mendoza on the 2nd with a bag of Starbucks. Charlotte wishes Team 6 well.

Posted by: Elsie on 1/23/2014 at 5:07 pm

Well done, Dad (Lew Smith)!!!  Keep kicking butt and taking names!  Well done to the entire team as well, this is wonderful news!!!  Keep the awesome photos coming, we are all pulling for ya! 

Love ya,

Kyle

Posted by: Kyle A. Smith on 1/23/2014 at 8:35 am


Aconcagua: Billy Nugent & Team Begin Their Expedition!

Whew. It's been a busy couple of days for this newly assembled team of climbers... The whole gang made it down to Argentina yesterday safe and sound and with all of our luggage! Travel-weary but excited we held a team meeting to formally get to know one another and hash out some of the many logistical details that getting out of town and on the mountain involves. Then we went out on the town in Mendoza for a wild and crazy night. Just kidding. But we did get to see some street performers and walk through the Saturday night crowds on our way to a fine Argentine restaurant. Now's where I'm supposed to brag about the delicious beef we ate and Malbec we imbibed. The following morning we got our act together after a couple hiccups at the permit office and then caught a quick lunch before transferring out to Penitentes. We spent the afternoon getting our gear ready for the mules and are about to enjoy one last night with a filling meal and a warm bed. Well, at least for the foreseeable future... Hitting the dusty trail tomorrow, everyone's a little anxious but psyched to find the rhythm of the expedition. All for now, RMI Guide Billy Nugent and Friends
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

  We are all thinking about you and send our love and prayers for a safe climb!  Erle, Erle, Donald, Djr. and John

Posted by: Erle Broughton on 1/12/2015 at 11:41 am


Mt. Kilimanjaro: Waterfall and Team Start Safari

We've started our safari with a great day. We got an early-ish start from the Dik Dik and headed out of town. On the way we stopped to pick up some stuff for the road. We made good time on some rough roads and through some construction zones. It's actually great to see the government investing in infrastructure here. Once we got to Lake Manyara National Park we had an amazing lunch at a nice little picnic spot and then headed out on the game drive. The drive was excellent! I've been convinced for years that the 'tree climbing lions' of Lake Manyara do not exist but today I was proven wrong. It was just a glimpse of the hind quarter of the lion but now I know they're real. We're done with the game drive now and enjoying cocktail hour at the Plantation Lodge. It's a great change of pace from the mountain. Here's a pick of the grounds at the lodge. It's a beautiful spot to spend a couple of nights on safari. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall and Team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

This looks like a fancy place compared to the mountain. Enjoy. MA

Posted by: Mary Ann on 8/15/2013 at 7:35 pm

Sounds like you are ready for a relaxing time after the mountain. Will look up the places you are now so I can travel along with you Love you Mom

Posted by: cornelia miller on 8/15/2013 at 10:08 am

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