June 17, 2014 - 7:14 pm PT
Once again the weather turned nasty overnight. We woke up to howling winds, snow, and low visibility. We waited until later in the morning and the weather began to get better. We decided to do our back carry since the weather was just good enough to travel. We made great time getting back down to our cache at 10,000'. We dug up our cache and were reunited with much of the food and gear that we will not be using until higher up on the mountain. As we were headed back up to camp, the skies cleared somewhat and the weather was downright pleasant the rest of the day.
Our plan for tomorrow is to cache much of the same food and gear up towards 14,000'. This will take some of the weight off from our move day and help us acclimatize to higher altitudes.
Climb high and sleep low.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and "The Ocho"
Hey, it’s Billy here checking in with our crew 100% on top of Cotopaxi. Enjoying another gorgeous day and another summit of an Ecuadorian Volcano! We have been taking probably hundreds of photos here on the top and we are going to gear up shortly and begin our descent. We will check in when again when we are down safe and sound, so wish us luck.
Ciao ciao!
RMI Guide Billy Nugent & Team
Today was a beautiful day here on Aconcagua, with clear blue skies and lots of sunshine for our carry up to Camp One. We had quite a bit of wind here in base camp last night and were worried that we might be walking up into the teeth of it today, but the weather gods smiled on us instead.
We were walking just as the sun came into camp, and were able to make steady progress through the broken and rocky morainal slopes above us. Soon enough we came to the heinous scree slope that guards the bench of Camp One, and the team made short work of the last few hundred feet.
We dropped our food, some equipment, and some gas for our launch towards the upper reaches of the mountain, and were headed down soon thereafter. All the luggage is currently awaiting our return, but tomorrow we'll take a hard-earned rest day. The team continues to climb strong, hydrate well, and eat hearty portions, which will pay dividends when we head up higher on this beautiful mountain.
Thanks for all the kind words, and keep your fingers crossed for continued good weather!
RMI Guides Garrett, Ben, and Nick
Sorry I have been slacking. Was aiming for a daily hello from home. I missed sorry. Hope you guys are having a great trip. Can’t wait dr you to get back so we can hear all the stories. Happy hiking!
Posted by: Martha on 1/5/2014 at 1:19 pm
Safe climbing as the team gets closer to the summit!
Tonight is the night!
We are at Barafu camp, 15,240', the last stop before our summit push.
The whole team is in good shape. A few high clouds have moved in, so we will see what comes along. I will start looking at the weather conditions at midnight and hope we can get moving shortly there after.
Fingers crossed.
Hello again everyone
It was a beautiful day here in Russia. We had a nice relaxing start to the day with a traditional Russian breakfast of porridge, eggs and bread. Then made our way to the local ski lifts to help give us a jumpstart on our hike. I didn't hear a single complaint about riding up 1500' before we started our hike to nearly the top of a local peak called Cheget. Normally we get to hike to the top of the peak, but being so close to the border with Georgia, the Russian military had the upper part closed to climbers. Regardless, we enjoyed the beautiful views and stretching our legs a bit.
After our hike we made back to town relatively quickly thanks to the ski lifts, where we had a hot lunch waiting on us. After lunch we dropped off our gear and made a quick stop to pick up a few extra items and even managed to try on a few local hats.
We wrapped up the evening with another nice home cooked meal here provided by our ever so gracious local outfitter.
Things are good here.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and comrades!
Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 8:03 PM PT
Today we had a more relaxing morning than the past few alpine starts. High camp was cold and breezy, and we enjoyed breakfast in the comfort of our sleeping bags. Blowing snow was evident on the upper mountain, reminding us how fortuitous we were to have a good weather window in which to summit.
We let the air warm up a bit and the winds abate and then we packed up camp and descended the West Buttress and the fixed ropes on the Headwall. We're now down in the relative warmth and comfort of the 14,200' camp. The air feels a lot thicker here now than when we left it a few days ago.
The plan is to get a good night's sleep and continue our descent tomorrow. The weather forecast is calling for a front to move in tonight bringing snow into Sunday. So we'll play it by ear with where/ when we descend, knowing that planes may not be able to fly into the Kahiltna airstrip until Sunday. We're all content and getting good rest for our long descent down the Kahiltna.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
June 14, 2014 - 11:34 pm PT
Today our team enjoyed a well earned rest day here at 11 Camp. Over a leisurely breakfast we took some time and shared the blog responses. Everyone loved hearing from friends and family back home, thanks for the love everyone!
After breakfast we got down to the real business, napping and building an awesome snowman. All in all a productive day in the mountains. Tomorrow if the weather holds we'll try and move to 14 Camp.
George would like to wish Elaine a Happy Birthday and Jessica a big congrats on her graduation. The team thanks them for letting us have him today.
"Hi umma, sarangtie, muattelatte."
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Jake, Leon, Dawn and Jared. Wish I was with the Raconcagua team. I miss those bagel, cream cheese and bacon breakfast sandwiches. Climb strong and good luck! Miss you guys. ,MAV
Posted by: MAV on 6/16/2014 at 9:00 am
Hey Jorge !! I’m pulling for you. Climb hard and be even harder.
Stay calm and Albariño on. Looking forward to hearing all the stories someday.
June 12, 2014 9:20am PT
It looks like we got lucky with the weather and found ourselves a day to fly! The mountain is visible from Talkeetna which seems like it is a rarity this season. All systems go!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team
May 23, 2014
High winds aloft again thwarted our plans to move to high camp today.
The team enjoyed another rest day, and we have now joined forces with Pete VanDeventer and his team, who arrived a few days ago, and together have built ourselves quite the RMI compound here in the Genet Basin.
After breakfast, Mike, Steve, and I made a quick lap down to 11 Camp to dig up our cache and retrieve any usable food items, extra gas, and personal supplies to help us extend our stint on the mountain.
We were hoping to get some promising news from the weather forecast this evening, but it sounds like we are going to have to dig our heels in and hang on, as high winds and multiple feet if snow are predicted over the next few days.
On a positive note, we scored some brownies and oreo's from a descending team, and thankfully Mike's frozen Kindle came back to life. We are now all happily entertained campers (and snackers) at 14,000', prepared to ride out this weather system!
Small miracles....
RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall & Team
We moved up-valley to Deboche today. Morning in Namche was pleasant but we had places to go and things to see. We hit the trail by 8:30 and walked easily along the traverse trail leaving town. At first we were mixed in with a few trekking groups and strings of pack animals, but after a little while we had the trail to ourselves. We'd have loved to have been able to hang on to our hard-won altitude, but it was necessary to give plenty of it back as we needed to drop all the way down to the river to get across and take on the Thyangboche Hill. We worked slow-and-steady up the hillside trail, gaining about fifteen hundred vertical feet in an hour and a half. Along the way, we got great views of Kangtega with its giant walls of rock topped by hanging glaciers, but these views were surpassed when we reached the hilltop and saw Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and Ama Dablam spread out before us and doing battle with the wind and clouds. Thyangboche Monastery sat like a palace at the ridge crest behind elaborate and ornate gates. We took our packs off for a few minutes and tried to take it all in, but we were only twenty minutes walk from Deboche at this point and lunch had taken on great importance to the team, so we shouldered packs once more and set off down through the rhododendron forests to our lodge at 12,200 ft above sea level.
The afternoon passed with food and naps and a break from the distractions of the internet, since WiFi was not readily available. We are not quite in the wilderness yet, but we can see it from here.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Mike and Bruce,
We are eagerly awaiting each installment of the story! Happy climbing!
Kristina Stamatis
Posted by: Kristina on 6/18/2014 at 3:01 pm
Go Bruce! Wishing you well and remember to bring back some McKinley snow for me in a zip lock bag. =)
Posted by: Donald Chen on 6/18/2014 at 2:38 pm
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