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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Mallory & Team Secure Camp at 14,000”

With more snow falling throughout the night and a cloudy obscured morning here at 14 Camp, we spent our 4th of July parked here at 14 Camp. The snow let up by mid morning and we spent a few hours touching up camp after all of the snow. The big snow walls we have around our tents do a great job breaking the wind but make clearing the tents a challenge as all the snow needs to be thrown up and over them. Once the tent area is cleared of the new snow we set about snugging up the guy lines and tent anchors that secure the tent in place, crucial points in case the winds pick up to keep the tents from blowing away. Turning our attention to the kitchen, we spent some time reworking our benches and cooking counters out of the snow. The kitchen is a big circular pit dug into the snow with benches and flat counters dug into the edges with a round teepee like nylon tent that covers it. After a few days of use everything begins to melt out so it took a couple of hours of shoveling and chopping through the ice to reform everything in there. With camp squared away we dove into a serious session of knot tying, spending the better part of the afternoon practicing the basic as well as more elaborate mountaineering and climbing knots. The weather has slowly cleared throughout the day and looks to be improving, a great trend for us. We are looking at the possibility of moving to high camp either tomorrow or Wednesday, depending on the weather and a few logistics we need to coordinate with Mike Haugen's RMI team which will hopefully be descending tomorrow. Happy 4th too everyone back home, we hope you're enjoying the barbecues and fireworks! RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey dad its Nick, have been having computer issues so I haven’t been able to check up too much. Looks like you guys are doing well. I hope the trip continues to be somewhat smooth, and I hope you’re having a blast! Love you lots!!

Nick

Posted by: Nick Marini on 7/6/2011 at 12:25 pm

Linden, your descriptions of camp are wonderful!  It is nice to start the day knowing you are all hanging in there. 

Kitty and I are holding down the home fort…all is well.

Posted by: laurie Colaneri on 7/5/2011 at 5:44 pm


Elbrus Team leaves for the Mountain

Hello Everyone, Today the team left behind the busy city life of Moscow and have arrived safely at the base of Mt. Elbrus. We caught an early flight to Mineralnye Vody, which is known for its abundant mineral springs and then headed to the mountain via a four hour bus ride. The drive was reminiscent of the rural Midwest we have back home, full of farms and beautiful sunflower fields that stretched on as far as the eye could see sometimes. The only difference was that the cows seemed more content standing in the middle of the road than in the fields. It sure made for an exciting ride to say the least! The plains quickly gave way to the deep Baksan Valley that sits at the base of Caucasus Mountains. Everyone still seems a little tired from all the travel, but we are all happy to be in the mountains now.
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Aconcagua: Cifelli & Team Arrive Mendoza, Prepare Gear

Welcome to the Blog! This first one will be written by me, Dominic Cifelli, but throughout the trip we pass the torch to all the climbers in order to gain different perspective on the day in/day out of the trip. Keep a lookout for your loved one's name on the blog and please enjoy!

We're off! Landing in Mendoza, we were greeted with the warm temps and long days of the South American summer. A far cry from the cold snap our loved ones are experiencing in the U.S.A. The day was filled with long lunches, a siesta or two, and perusing the local markets for gifts and very late Christmas presents.

The first days of an expedition are exciting and quite hectic as we prepare, check, and recheck our equipment for the journey ahead. I always find that once we start walking, everything gets simpler because we can no longer quadruple check that we packed that favorite pair of socks or brought the right mittens. What's packed is packed and the job will become putting one front in front of the other.

That's for tomorrow's enjoyment, however. The rest of the day will be filled with prepping the duffels and food for the rough ride they take on the mules to Basecamp.

We do this in the "town" of Penitentes, close to the entrance to Aconcagua Provincial Park.

Stay tuned and wish us luck as we try to finish up the monstrous task of packing for a three-week trip.

Adios!

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Get it!  Wishing you all enjoyable and safe travels.  You all trained and prepped so diligently, now it’s time to enjoy the trek to the top. Prayer and encouragement from Seattle.

Posted by: Ed DaPra on 1/16/2024 at 6:18 am

Good luck!  Praying for a safe summit!

Posted by: Michelle DeMers on 1/15/2024 at 4:38 am


Ecuador Seminar: Team Acclimates and Prepares for Cayambe

Our warmup stretch is coming to an end as we head to the Cayambe today. It takes a handful of days acclimatizing in cities and shorter day hikes before it makes sense to be sleeping above 15,000' at the Cayambe hut. All members of the team completed both acclimatization hiked, Rucu Pichincha (15,354') and Cerro Fuya Fuya (14,039'), in good style.

After a quiet night at the quaint La Casa Sol we are now at the Otavalo Market. People choose from a variety of activities here: souvenir shopping, a visit to the pharmacy or for myself enjoying an affogato in my favorite coffee shop.

Thank you for following along and look for updates from us in the coming days. Tomorrow is skills training on the glacier and the following night we will make our summit attempt on Cayambe!

RMI Guides Dustin, Henry & Team

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Wishing you all a successful and safe climb. Especially a certain member of the team.

Posted by: John (Dad) on 1/15/2023 at 5:40 am

You’re doing great, team!

Posted by: Andrew on 1/14/2023 at 10:20 am


Peru Seminar: Young & Team Enjoy Some Down Time in Huaraz

Hello modern world! We're back in the bustling city of Huaraz after a week in the Ishinca Valley of the Cordillera Blanca Range. After any significant amount of time in the mountainous wilderness, even if just a week, it is certainly a shock to the system to return back to the modern world, especially when it's in the form of the chaotic city of Huaraz. With that chaos, however, comes showers, cervezas, real beds, warm temps, and flip flops! I'd say that it's nice to eat real food, but our reality is that we've been eating better in the mountains than most do in the cities (no joke)! That's all thanks to our wonderful cook from Alvarado Adventures, Emilio, once a guide here in the Range, and now a mountain chef extraordinaire that has been taking care of RMI teams for as long as we've been climbing in Peru. We had some great successes this week in the Ishinca Valley. We went through the (sometimes) painful process of acclimatizing our bodies to high altitudes, and we were able to successfully summit two beautiful mountains; Ishinca (18,143') and Urus Este (17,782'). The mountains and glaciers here are quite dry this season, which made for more interesting climbing, and more challenging, than our other trips down here. Our team attacked that challenge with an 'enthusiasm unknown to mankind', and were able to accomplish some personal goals and set new altitude records in the process. Tonight, we're just relaxing city-side at the wonderful Hotel Andino. We've got a little bit of repacking to do, as tomorrow morning we set out for our third and final climb of the trip; Pisco Oeste. We're looking forward to spending the next 4 days in the Llanganuco Valley and giving our bodies and minds another test of endurance as we look to approach the 19,000' mark and climb the beautiful west ridge of Pisco. We'll keep you updated on our progress. For now, enjoy some pictures from our most recents adventures in the Ishinca Valley. RMI Guide Robby Young, Alfie, WIlliam, and Team 'Showers and Flip Flops'
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Looks like a tuff climb.  I know you could do it Trey. You’re up to the challange.

Posted by: Phyllis Craig on 7/25/2019 at 7:48 am

Congrats Paul! I’m stoked you went back and looks like a summit or two. :) Enjoy Pisco! It’s amazing!

Posted by: Rue Beyer on 7/23/2019 at 9:30 pm


Alaska Seminar: Beautiful Views and Training

Hello again from the SE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Temperatures have remained chilly at night around here. Although a brief period of snow yesterday afternoon brought in some slightly warmer temperatures. Yesterday we walked underneath the north Buttress of Mt. Hunter as we traveled further up the SE fork for some training. The scenery was breathtaking. The weather has been splendid. Today we all summitted the Control Tower. Some moderate glacier travel gave us access to a beautiful Alaska snow ridge to the top. Wonderful views of the Alaskan Range were had from the top. Everyone has adjusted well to life on the glacier. Ciao, RMI Guide Jason Thompson
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Kilimanjaro: Tucker & Team at Barranco Camp

Jambo from Barranco Camp! The team had their best night of sleep yet. We were walking in the fog this morning and still no views of the upper mountain. It was perfect hiking weather and altitude records for the group over 14,800'. We all cruised into camp looking and feeling well. The hike took 6 hours and 15 minutes. Some sun and the first view of the upper mountain was a treat to us all here at Barranco Camp, which is just under 13,000'. Lots of photos with the unique giant groundsel tree that grows at this elevation. We are planning on rolling slow out of camp tomorrow because of the short distance to Karanga Camp. The team was happy to hear they get to sleep in. The team continues to do well. We had some communication problems yesterday so we apologize for not getting a dispatch out. We'll check in tomorrow from Karanga Camp. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Elbrus Climbers Descend to Azau

After yesterday's adventure the team slept soundly, some a little too soundly, if you know what I mean (read snoring). We had a leisurely morning with breakfast at 9am and then finished packing up all of our gear and headed back down the combination of lifts to reach Azau once again. The thick air of 8,000 ft was warm and welcoming. There was a look of panic in everyone's eyes when I reminded the team that there were 12 of us who were hoping for hot showers and the water might be limited. Everyone quickly raced off, but there was plenty of hot water and everyone is looking and smelling much better. We spent the next 2 hours stuffing our bellies with chicken kebabs and some tasty local beer. After lunch the team headed out on a gift shopping mission from which we have just returned. There is a celebratory dinner on schedule for tonight that usually ends with a little sampling of the local vodka. I'm sure it will be a fun night as everyone is happy to be down from Elbrus and ready to head to St. Petersburg tomorrow. That's all for now.
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Mt. Rainier: Okita, Ambler& Team Summit

Congratulations to the Four Day Climb team led by RMI guides Brent Okita and Will Ambler for reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier!

With clear skies and breathtaking views, today’s climb was nothing short of spectacular. Huge kudos to the team for their determination and teamwork on this unforgettable journey.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So stoked to be a part of this summit team! Thank you to all the guides! You all did such an amazing job keeping us on course and safe. I can’t thank you enough for this most beautiful experience!

Posted by: Michael Giardina on 7/19/2025 at 10:50 am

Congratulations Team for reaching the top. Take in the beauty.

Posted by: Maryann Marzo on 7/18/2025 at 3:31 pm


Mt. Rainier: Okita, Hedreen and Teams Reach Summit

The Four Day Climb June 3 - 6 led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and George Hedreen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier.  The ropes teams were walking into the crater rim around 6:30 am PT.  It's a beautiful day with clear skies.  This marks summit #599 for RMI Guide Brent Okita.  Wow!

After enjoying some time in the crater the teams will descend to Camp Muir and then Paradise later today.

Congratulations to all of today's climbers.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Brent is awesome!!! xox

Posted by: Jill Caven on 6/6/2025 at 10:02 am

Amazing!! Congrats !!

Posted by: Hélène Coulombe on 6/6/2025 at 8:47 am

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