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The Four Day Summit Climb August 15 - 18, 2016 enjoyed an alpine start from Camp Muir under a beautiful full moon. RMI Guides Jake Beren and Ben Liken reported great climbing with warm temperatures and calm winds. After spending time on the summit both teams left the crater rim on their descent just before 7:30 am PT. We look forward to meeting the groups back at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Posted by: Brent Okita, Lindsay Mann
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,400'
The Mount Rainier Summit Climb turned at 11,400’ due to new snow and avalanche concerns. RMI Guide Brent Okita reported that the weather was beautiful but chilly at Camp Muir. The teams are safely off the mountain and will be back to Rainier Basecamp early afternoon.
JPW good luck to you and team
LYM
Posted by: CHRIS WALKER on 9/7/2015 at 9:19 am
Anticipating a great adventure tale - way to go Kimberly & team!!
Posted by: Jennifer on 9/5/2015 at 1:34 pm
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken, Sean Collon
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
July 13, 2014 - 10:58 pm PT
Yesterday was a tough climb to reach high camp at 17,200 ft. Bad weather at the start of the day caused us to get on the trail later than we'd have liked and a couple inches of new snow on the route made the steep pitches a little more exhausting than they might otherwise be. Even so, with heavy packs and tired legs, we were thrilled to balance along on the crest of the West Buttress, enjoying an endless sunset of golden light. We pulled into camp at 9 PM, just as the sun got tangled in thick cloud. It was a scramble to build camp and get stoves going before the real cold took hold. We ran stoves until 2:30 AM in order to have enough water. As we worked hard to get dug in, we watched a team of two guides and one climber make a late descent of the "Autobahn". They'd managed to thread the needle and hit the summit and as they neared camp, the weather came in again with clouds and wind. Our tents stood up to a few good gusts in the night and the usual blowing snow but as tired as we were, it didn't keep us awake. Morning was calm and easy where we were but too windy and mean up above, so we finished getting our camp in order and took it easy instead of climbing. The team of three has descended now and we are left alone in our quest... Likely the highest people in North America, even as we simply sit in camp on what has become a beautiful evening. If the good weather lasts until morning, we'll know how to use it.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher, Nick Hunt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
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May 26, 2014 - 10:46 pm PT
With just a little anxiousness about our carry up to 13,500', the first real climbing of the trip, the team awoke early this morning to a pretty darned reasonable day. 7:00 AM at 11,200' can certainly be chilly, and today was no exception. We washed down our oatmeal with some hot drinks to fortify ourselves for the big day, reviewing as we usually do some key points of the days.
Our climb of Motorcycle Hill was made before the sun hit the face, making for a chilly start to the day. But at the top we were rewarded with great views of the Northwest Buttress and Peter's Glacier, not to mention the Alaskan tundra in the distance. Squirrel Hill followed and we found ourselves cramponing on perfect snow.
Conditions, in general, were quite nice all the way to our cache site at 13,500'. But what really struck us was how well the team was climbing. And how well everyone was feeling. Yeah, it was a good push for us, but we all took heart in having done well today. Our dinner of mac and cheese with loads of crumbled bacon stirred in hit the spot. There were no leftovers tonight. Cookies for dessert finished us off before we organized gear for tomorrow.
As for tomorrow ... As good as everybody is feeling, if the weather again cooperates, we might just move up to 14,200' camp. Then, we'll be ready for a couple of well deserved rest days.
We'll see ...
RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick
On The Map
Hey Mark Tucker checking in from Pheriche down here in the lowlands of 14,000'. Well the team got up and had a nice breakfast in beautiful, beautiful weather. We said good-bye to the crew at Base Camp. It was really fun sharing the expedition experience with these guys. We had a really good time and were well taken care of. We were sad to leave Jeff Martin, our Operations Manager, all alone up there, but he's going to be fine. We had a big day today though. Went through Gorak Shep and Lobuche so it was quite a trek for the team. They all did well and the mountain at the last bit threw at us a pretty good snow squall. And for this group of Floridians, the preparation and our great training over the last couple of weeks here, we survived. It was not that bad but it was a fun experience and boy we're going to share these stories. Whatever they say, I'll agree with them. Those numbers change when they get back home but I will verify it. So we're all doing well. The other RMI team, the climbing team, is here as well. It's been great to rub shoulders with them and these guys are getting to know them as well. So we are all hanging tough. More downhill and up tomorrow, where we'll end up in Namche Bazaar. Thank you for following.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
RMI Guide Mark Tucker calls in from Pheriche.
On The Map
The Four Day Summit Climbs led by Geoff Schellens, Brent Okita, and Gabriel Barral reached Columbia Crest today at 7:09 am. The teams reported light winds (10-20mph) and blue skies. They began making their descent to Camp Muir at 8 o’clock.
Congratulations to today’s summit teams!
Our day began with more unsettled weather, but seeing that we had a short day in store for us, we got an early start on retrieving our cache from 9,600' and were back up to camp by 12:30. And that's when the weather finally broke in earnest, greeting us with windless, sunny conditions. Finally!
We took great advantage of an afternoon with little to do and relaxed for a few hours. Later, we did get a short training session in where Leon and Maile refreshed our cramponing and ice axe arrest skills. This in preparation for our big carry up to 13,500', where the slopes steepen appreciably and the use of crampons and ice axes are essential. Everybody is ready for the challenging day and excited to start climbing.
We were also psyched upon hearing that Mike Walters and his group had finally made it to 17,200' camp. Well, I too better get some rest for tomorrow's climb.
Goodnight from 11,200'.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Onward and upward, Steve! Thinking of you, bernie
Posted by: Bernadette Johnson on 5/25/2011 at 2:37 pm
Sergey, wow I didn’t know you had it in you! Good luck and enjoy your adventure!
Posted by: Barbara H on 5/25/2011 at 5:48 am
Buen día to all you following along back home! This fearless (not really) group are chilling at Camp 1 after yesterday's carry up to the CHOPPER CAMP (pronounced with an ex-governator accent). The weather is gorgeous this morning; blue skies with all of the surrounding mountains dusted white with yesterday's snowfall. The group is acclimatizing very well and is chomping at the bit to move higher.
Patience is the name of the game now. The rest and acclimation we get here will make us strong up high!
Ants-in-our-pants-o-meter: 7.8.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Patience is the name of the game now. The rest and acclimation we get here will make us strong up high!
Ants-in-our-pants-o-meter: 7.8.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
Posted by: Mike Walter, Taylor Bickford, Nikki Champion
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
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Saturday, June 29, 2019 - 4:46 PM PT
After a good night's sleep at high camp we woke up with the sun, had breakfast, and packed up camp. We descended the West Buttress and the fixed ropes on the Headwall and made it back to the 14k Camp by noon to beat the heat of the day.
We've decided to spend the night here and rest. Our plan is to spend tomorrow here also and wait until colder weather at night to travel back to the airstrip at Kahiltna Basecamp. With any luck we will be flying back to Talkeetna on Monday. We'll keep you posted with our downhill progress. But for now we're enjoying some well-deserved rest in preparation for a long descent.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Congratulations to Ethan and Mylan. You have lived your dream! We are so glad to hear that you are safe and on your desent. Mom and dad
Posted by: Shoshana Mark on 6/30/2019 at 11:38 am
What a strong emotion you must have experienced ! Congratulations for your wisdom and strength to all of you during this ascent. Have a very safe trip back.
Mylan, that is simply amazing :-) I hope to see you soon to hear about all this adventure !
Posted by: Cécile Boineau on 6/30/2019 at 2:02 am
One year from a septuagenarian and never having participated in snow activities probably is not the most propitious period to start mountaineering, especially on Mt. Rainier. It was Theodore Roosevelt, though, who said, “... Far better is it to dare mighty things, but it is worse never to have tried to succeed.”
Being in good physical conditioning and active all my life I decided to follow Teddy’s advice. I made it to Ingraham Flats and realized appropriately that my slower pace was a deterrent to team members’ having a successful climb. No regrets from me, though. I met wonderful professional guides who were patient and indulgent with me throughout the climb.
I am proud of those individuals who summited. I also take particular pride in cultivating a friendship with young 18 year old Kyle who impressed me deeply with his poise, maturity beyond his years, self-discipline, physical ability and love of his family of whom he spoke proudly. Go through life Kyle, spreading your wings and soaring as high as you dare to achieve mighty things as Teddy most assuredly would say to you.
RMI is a professionally run company. Its professional staffs are highly skilled mountaineers who place a premium on customer safety. While safety is their number one priority the professional guides establish prudent parameters for customers to maximize available opportunities to apply their skills for a truly memorable and amazing experience.
With Kindest of Regards,
Jerry W Doyle
Posted by: Jerry W Doyle on 8/20/2016 at 2:58 pm
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