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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Settling in at 11,200’ Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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May 12, 2015 11:00 pm PT Hello everyone! We tackled our third day of Mt. McKinley climbing today, which brought us to camp at 11,200'. The team did exceptionally well and we made great time, rolling into camp before it became uncomfortably hot on the glacier. Once here we had a big task ahead of us, constructing tent platforms and a kitchen and bathroom. Thankfully we were able to make use of some old walls and platforms that only required minor adjustment to make them workable for our tents, saving us at least an hour of hard labor. The bathroom and kitchen required the most effort, but the team rotated through the shoveling and we now have a luxurious Posh House dining area which we enjoyed over a filling dinner of mac and cheese with bacon and broccoli. We are all tucked in now, enjoying the last few minutes of sunlight in camp in the comfort of our sleeping bags, looking forward to a nice rest and short day tomorrow. Our plan is to sleep in a bit later than the last few mornings, and then return to our last camp to retrieve our remaining food. We'll check in again tomorrow! RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall and the team!

On The Map

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For Daddy to Be of a Princess…doctors appointment went well and she is growing and perfect!  The boys are taking care of Mom. 
Thinking of all of you at Camp 11,200 this 48 degree morning from Washington DC…I’m so happy for your progress up the mountain~ 
Thank you for all the updates…and allowing us to be a small part of this adventure your on.  Proud of you and wishing you good weather…Keep moving on up!

Posted by: Dave and Melissa Quantock on 5/14/2015 at 2:28 am

For Eric and all you hockey fans at Camp 11,200’:  Rangers just won 2-1 in OT!  Stepan nets winner.  Tampa Bay series starts on Sat.  Keep that Stanley Cup “beard” growing, and keep on chugging Ricky et al!  Dad/Alex

Posted by: Alex Alimanestianu on 5/13/2015 at 8:10 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Team Reaches Summit

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide Casey Grom reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The team was able to spend about an hour enjoying the views from the crater of Mt. Rainier. They began their descent around 8:30 am. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a short break before continuing to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climbers!
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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Train in Talkeetna on a Rainy Day

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

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June 27, 2014 - 12:00 am PT We were up and hustling to get ready this morning, anxious for the chance to get on Mount McKinley. But it turned out, after breakfast and a walk in the rain to the airstrip, that there wasn't too great a chance for flying today. The word was that several feet of new snow had fallen overnight at Basecamp. The snow, cloud and wind were predicted to continue up there for the day, but we were put on standby just in case things broke. We made good use of the day in the K2 Aviation hangar, reviewing rope techniques for glacier travel. The rain and low cloud persisted, but we stayed dry enough. We had one more "last" dinner in town and turned in to be ready for another day and another try. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Take a Rest Day at 11K Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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June 6, 2014 - 9:55 pm PT Today was a very productive day building red blood cells. We rested at 11,000 camp. After sleeping in, we spent the morning eating eggs, hash browns, and bacon and drinking coffee. We got to know some of our neighbors and packed for our carry to 13,400' tomorrow. Everyone is feeling strong and ready to keep working up hill. Thanks all for following along with us. RMI Guides Eric, Geoff and the UWR Team Jesse says: Family- John and I have hardly gotten into any trouble. The guides are great and like us. Today we played football and built snow thrones. I'm having such a blast. Kelly- I've been thinking about you. We should check out that cliff house restaurant when I get back. Or maybe that white door place on filmore. I've been thinking a lot about food too. Miss you babe!
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  John—good luck on the climb to the summit.  We are all rooting for you down below in the low lands. Tyler left your truck at my house and I might use it a little bit to haul some garbage but don’t worry I’ll take good care of it. 
Mark Crossgrove

Posted by: Mark Crossgrove on 6/8/2014 at 7:44 am

John - We are thinking about you every day my good man.  We have been reading the daily posts as a family and I showed the kids where you are at on the map.  Looking forward to seeing your cheery face soon.

The York Family

Posted by: Gary York on 6/7/2014 at 7:05 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team at 11,000’ Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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We left camp this morning on our way to 11,000' camp in okay weather only to end up climbing in white-out conditions. Despite the poor weather, we made good time and arrived in camp mid-morning. We dug in a great camp and spent some time making our cook tent (the posh house) into a kitchen and dining area that would make Martha Stewart proud. We then proceeded to "sport eat" all afternoon and into the evening. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

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PATRICK!  11,000’!  The PG&E trail is less than child’s play in comparison! 

Been keeping up with the blog - looks like you’ve got a great team!  I hope all is well! Good job on killing your finals and winning at life.

-Janina

Posted by: Janina on 6/22/2011 at 12:08 am

Nice work mike and team!

Posted by: Sam2 on 6/21/2011 at 6:38 am

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Everest Expedition arrives in Lobuche

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 4,879 meters

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We are in a routine... hitting our stride and finding a groove. It felt perfectly normal to wake up at 14,000 ft., pack the bags, guzzle the hot drinks, look each other in the eye for signs of a rough night due to tummy or altitude trouble, fight over who-ordered-what, eat breakfast and hit the trail in the midst of gargantuan mountains and outrageous vistas. The trek to Lobuche began as an easy stroll up the broad valley that Pheriche sits in. Tawoche and Cholatse seemed to grow bigger and steeper, forming an impenetrable wall to our left. Pocalde and its many rock summits formed a corresponding barrier on our right. We merged into the flow of yak and trekker traffic for a time until the route steepened and narrowed. At that point, we began to pass numerous teams and individuals stopping to catch their breath. Rather than giving in to the temptation to pause every few steps, I urged Erica to treat the hills we were climbing as prep for the Khumbu Icefall. We certainly won't have the option there to pause in dangerous places just because our legs and lungs get tired. Erica has climbed a few good mountains and she understood the challenge I was putting to her. It was time for us to distinguish ourselves from trekkers and walkers and hikers, and to operate more like mountain climbers. Mountain climbers who actually would not have too many more practice stretches before things get serious above basecamp. The rest of our own team was on about the same game plan. We gathered to check on one another at Thukla... or Dhukla, as you may prefer. In fact, the sign there says "Thukla+Dhukla." At any rate, there are just two teahouses at Dhukla and we sat outside one, sipping hot lemon drinks and chatting with some of the folks we've shared the trail with for several days. There are gigantic hills of rough rock piled near Dhukla, which are actually the terminal moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. After our break, as we climbed up a long and steady hill to 16,000 ft., we were finding our way to the lateral moraines of the Khumbu... the glacier that will essentially be our home for the next seven weeks. We came out onto level ground at Thok La, a pass of some significance and reverence for climbers. There are dozens of stone monuments, or chortens, at Thok La for dead climbing partners... fathers... brothers... sons, teammates and friends. Some of the chortens are elaborate, with engraved and polished brass. Others have chiseled stone tablets eroded and difficult to read after decades in the wind and driven snow. Some are for famous Western climbers, some are for anonymous Sherpas. It always seems appropriate to pause at Thok La in order to walk among the chortens and to appreciate the dangers we will subject ourselves to. And for some of us, it is an important chance to remember friends who didn't make it home. Thok La is also a natural boundary between the inhabited valleys below and the vast and marginally hospitable world of rock and ice above. It took our team no more than an hour to cover the easy ground into Lobuche from the pass. The trail followed a stream which, I explained to those around me, would normally be a sizable frozen flow at this time of year. I was struck by how little water was in the stream. There was virtually no ice and no snow on the hills forming the moraine. Just as many Sherpas had already explained, the winter was strangely devoid of precipitation and we were seeing confirmation of that. We'd lost our view of several of the familiar peaks of the past week, but we'd gained unimpeded vistas of new and important ones. Pumori, Lingtren and Khumbutse, which tower over Everest Basecamp, only two short days' walk away. And Changtse, Everest's north peak, was visible over in Tibet. The Lobuche Peaks (East and West) crowd the immediate view to the west now and Nuptse's crazy spiderweb wall of dikes fills the east. We are in yet another comfy teahouse, the "Eco Lodge," unpacking a few bags and getting settled for two nights and some more of that good old-fashioned acclimatization. The afternoon clouds have come over and it seems a good time for a nap.
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Mt. Rainier: Breen & Paradise Seminar Reach Summit

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

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The six day Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise August 1 - 6 led by RMI Guide Jackson Breen has enjoyed beautiful weather for their week of training, climbing and camping on Mt. Rainier. Yesterday, after several days of practicing anchors, crevasse rescue, glacier travel and snow camping the team packed up gear and ascended to Camp Muir. Today the teams left Camp Muir with an early alpine start and reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 5:30 am.  They enjoyed an hour in the crater before starting their descent back to Camp Muir. The team will continue down to Paradise later today and conclude their adventure with a celebration of their accomplisments. 

Nice work team!  We hope you enjoyed your time on the mountain.

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Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Move to High Camp at 17,000ft

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

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Sunday, June 16, 2024 - 11:56 pm PT

Good evening readers,

Today we woke to perfect weather for our move to 17,000 Camp. The team did well repeating the fix lines and made solid work on the Buttress. The views are spectacular being on the Buttress.There is exposure on both sides and mountains all over. It really is the best part of the mountain. We once again setup camp and got cozy. It's a bit colder up here but it's a cool place to be. Freeze dried dinners filled our empty bellies. And soon we got settled into our tents. It's gonna be a chilly night but that's what we signed up for. Enjoy your warm beds at home.

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

17,000’ !!! Hannah, You and your Team Rock!!! Sending the Best for Perfect weather!!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/18/2024 at 3:18 am

Glad all the good weather vibes that we send are working!

Posted by: Shannon R Smith on 6/17/2024 at 4:02 pm

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Denali Expedition: Smith and Team Retrieve Cache

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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Wednesday, June 12, 2024 8:40 pm PDT

Clothes and food in our packs and headed down to our cache. The round trip only took 2 hours and we were back in our tents relaxing. Relaxing is the main focus from now through tomorrow. The team has earned a rest day to recover from some big days and to recover for a big carry day on Friday. We are trucking along and right on schedule. Hopefully the weather keeps holding and we keep hitting all our target days. As we get ready for bed, light snow falls on our tents It’s a soothing sound to fall asleep to. As always keep up the good weather vibes and throw in there some sleep like 10-pound baby vibes.

Thanks for following along!

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

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Hey Hannah and Team!  Very Cool pictures! I keep sending thoughts of perfect weather for your climb to the Top of North America!!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/14/2024 at 4:28 am

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Denali Expedition: Smith and Team Lay Low

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

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Thursday, June 6, 2024 6:11pm PDT

Hello readers!

The snow pitter pattered all night. With every tap to the side of the tent snow slides off. It was a winter wonderland. White surrounded us. You could see nothing but white. With visibility being low and tents wet, we decided to lay low and hang tight for the day. The team rested and the snow Fell most of the day. Towards the late afternoon the base of the peaks became visible. An optimistic sign that maybe the weather is letting up. We are Hopeful that we can get still move to 11k camp in an alpine start fashion much like we do on Rainier. So, after dinner we are going to rest a few hours and hopefully the weather is descent, and we can make our move.

Wish us luck and send good weather vibes.

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

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Hi Tommy and group, wishing you all the best of luck for better weather and a successful climb. And thank you for all the updates.

Posted by: Jen Mackenzie on 6/8/2024 at 12:18 am

Hi Tommy MacKenzie,
We love you!  Michael and I say hi! 

I hope you are doing well and you have good conditions. 

Wishing everyone a safe and wonderful experience❤️

Posted by: Linda Barrow on 6/7/2024 at 5:53 pm

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