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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Move Camp to 11,200’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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June 20, 2016 - 11:11 P.M. PDT Few things are as satisfying as watching a storm clear and being able to once again see the mountain you are trying to climb. Our stormy weather did just that, allowing us to do a rapid pack and move up to our 11,200 ft. camp. We spent the afternoon digging in and letting our tents dry out, and everyone is looking forward to a well deserved day of rest and acclimatization tomorrow. It was a stunningly beautiful evening up here, watching the clouds roll over Kahiltna Dome and streaks of solstice sunlight streak Mount Foraker. Fingers crossed for good weather to come. Love from, RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team El Siete

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11,200 - too easy. Go Team El Siete!

Posted by: E.L. on 6/21/2016 at 12:36 pm

Yay, Phil & team! Praying for continued good weather.

Posted by: Barbara on 6/21/2016 at 9:54 am

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Mt. Elbrus: Justman & Team 100% Summit Success!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Elevation: 18,510'

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Update: July 30, 2015 11:31 pm PST Family and friends we are back at camp safe and sound. Again, every one made the summit. Stay tuned for the summit video!! July 30, 2015 8:50 pm PST Hey, everyone. This is JJ Justman with the Elbrus team. I will give you one guess, just one guess as to where not one, not two, not five, but every single team member is right now. That is right! We are on top of Europe! We are on the summit of Mount Elbrus! The team did just a fantastic job today. We are a day early than expected. We have some weather coming in tomorrow and the next day. It is supposed to snow pretty darn good. As a guide I kind of hemmed and hawed and made the decision that the best day to go was today. And I'll tell you what, the team today is just strong as can be. We are on the summit of Elbrus. We are taking some more photos, and then we are going to head downhill. It is a beautiful day right now so we just made a terrific call as a team and I'm really proud of everyone. [Team cheers!] That's right, a big holler. Everyone says hi to family and friends. I will touch base with you guys when we get back down, but boy, we are just doing great. Thanks for following along. We'll talk to you again soon.


RMI Guide JJ Justman calls from the Mount Elbrus summit.

On The Map

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Nice! Looks gorgeous!! Congrats to all and a special shout out to my honey, Brian. Love you baby!!

Posted by: Victoria on 7/31/2015 at 8:01 am

hi Brian and team-
Wow! Sounds like some great decisions as to when to summit! Congrats to all!! Be safe and have fun coming down.
Love you-
Molly and Mike and family

Posted by: Molly and mike on 7/31/2015 at 7:19 am

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Peru Seminar: The Team Summits Ishinca!

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 14,400'

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¡Buenas tardes! The team is back at Basecamp after a great, successful day on 18,143ft Ishinca. Everyone climbed well up the southeast glacier, which provided a steep, yet sun-cupped summit ridge. An early summit allowed us to descend via the southweat side, completing an up and over traverse of the mountain; extra credit for everyone! We're now looking forward to an active rest day tomorrow, keeping an eye on the weather as our beautiful summit day turned into a dust of unexpected snow at Basecamp this evening. Best regards from Perú! RMI Guides Elías de Andres Martos, Robby Young and team
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Thank you team leaders Elias and Robby, sounds like a great beginning for all!!

Posted by: Laura Voisinet on 7/4/2015 at 4:41 pm

Congrats Robby and team!  Living vicariously through these posts. What an adventure. Greetings from sunny Traverse City fourth of July morning. Safe travels On descent.

Posted by: Victoria Sutherland on 7/4/2015 at 5:48 am

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Scheduled Rest Day

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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June 3, 2015 - 5:08 pm PT Last night shortly after dinner a light snow began falling as we got in our tents. This morning we awoke to 8" of new snow and it has continued falling all day. It is always nice when weather forces a rest day right on schedule. We drew out the breakfast process making hash browns, eggs, bacon, and uncountable cups of coffee. The early afternoon was spent napping an watching movies in our tents and shoveling out camp. Hopefully tomorrow is nice and we can get a cache in at 13,600' before returning to 11 camp. The teams is in good spirits and enjoying a day off their feet. That's all for now, thanks for following along. RMI Guides Geoff Schellens & Eric Frank

On The Map

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Kim and rest in the same sentence? I am imagining you doing push-ups, crunches and using anything you can find in your backpack for weight resistant exercises. Keep enjoying this fabulous adventure!

Posted by: Mary Beth Donelan on 6/5/2015 at 6:09 am

Hi Kim. I just wanted to tell you that last night, Lora put our A/C down to 68. I was freeeezing all night! Ugh. Anyway, what’s going on with you these days? When do you leave for Alaska?

Good luck!

-Michael

Posted by: Michael on 6/4/2015 at 5:50 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Remain at 14,000’

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

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May 27, 2015 - 10:38 pm PT We woke early this morning, ate, took down our tents and packed our backpacks. We even had our harnesses on. The weather was perfect. But after checking multiple weather resources, our decision was clear. Weather models were in agreement, forecasting gale force winds in excess of 65mph tomorrow at high camp. It would not have been prudent to risk going up high today and deal with potential tent-crushing winds tomorrow. So we unpacked and set up our tents anew. Throughout the emotional swings of this morning, our team has remained resolute. Safety is our number one priority up here in the mountains, and we will try for our summit push after tomorrow's winds abate. In fact, the forecast looks quite good for Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. We're optimistic that we'll have good shot to move up to high camp on Friday. In the mean time today, we're enjoying the best weather day of our whole trip. It's sunny, calm, and warm here at 14,200'. Pete Van Deventer's expedition is up high on the ridge today, caching supplies for their stint at high camp (which will likely coincide with ours). Adam Knoff's expedition rolled into camp today also, and they're busy setting up their camp. It's good to see a lot of friendly RMI climber faces here at camp. We'll keep you posted any news from our end. Cheers, RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Arrive at Camp 1

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

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May 21, 2015 - 10:46 pm PT The team has made it to Camp 1 in almost perfect style. I am on my seventh Denali climb as a guide and have never gone from Base Camp to Camp 1 with such seamlessness. No one had a single sled issue or cursed my name for giving them so much gear. No one got a blister or fell behind a single second. Like I said earlier, I am very pleased with this team. One day down, who knows how many more to go. Stay tuned for tomorrow's report. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

On The Map

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We sure hope the weather holds clear and bright the rest of your journey. Safe climbing to the whole team. Keep up the good work and good luck to you all.

Posted by: Connie Whitley on 5/23/2015 at 4:14 am

Way to go team! Glad all is well. We sure are routing for y’all. Greetings from Texas! Yee,haw!!

Posted by: Joyce Tocher on 5/22/2015 at 6:20 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Weather Day at 11K Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

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May 14, 2015, 6:20 pm PT Checking in here from 11,200 ft: Today we awoke to less than desirable weather for a potential carry. Gusty winds and snow prompted a welcomed rest day. The team slept in and once awake began the process of fixing up camp and repairing the cook tent. A multiple hour breakfast of eggs, meats, and hashbrowns gave way to some socializing around camp, and on and off napping. The team is in good spirits and hoping to begin the eventual process of moving to 14,000 camp as soon as the weather improves. RMI Guide Billy Haas and the team
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I hope the weather improves soon so you can continue your adventure!  Chris, had a healthy baby Savannah appointment this week! The boys are doing awesome and enjoy moving you up the mountain poster we made! I’m glad you’re eating well! We love you and are missing you! Good luck to the team and stay safe! Praying for y’all

Posted by: Brooke Q on 5/15/2015 at 10:10 am

Thinking clear blue skies for you all….Chris..Dad and I love seeing the updates.  Your breakfast sounded wonderful to have on the mountain…dare I let the cat out of the bag that you are Great at cooking breakfast!  Oh and Landon won’t share his Elmo with Cohen…and there isn’t an Elmo for sale in Fairbanks..so Cohen has a Blue Elmo which is really Cookie Monster that Brooke found and he is happy and just thinks Elmo has a blue suit on! :c)
Take care all…Be Safe…every step upward will be amazing!

Posted by: Melissa & Dave on 5/15/2015 at 9:33 am

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Ecuador: Grom & Team Ready for Their Cotpaxi Summit Bid

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

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Hola Amigos! Things are good here in Ecuador and the team is well rested after two nights at the wonderful Chilcabamba Lodge. Everyone is excited for tonight's climb on Cotopaxi. Today we bumped up to another Lodge that is nestled in right below Cotopaxi itself. Normally we stay at the Refugio on the mountain, but it is currently under renovation so we'll be climbing from here. We have done this on the last few climbs and it has worked out well for the past teams and I expect the same for us. Tonight our plan is to have dinner around 4:30 then head right to bed. We'll wake at 10pm and have a sit down breakfast and then hit the road around 11pm. We'll drive our bus to the base of the mountain and start our climb close to midnight. Based on how well everyone did on Cayambe, I'm guessing it's going to take us somewhere around six to eight hours to reach the summit. The weather has been improving each day and we have our fingers crossed it will continue for one more day. We'll check back in tomorrow hopefully with good news. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
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Aconcagua: Wedel & Team Move to Camp 3, Prepare for Summit Bid

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 19,600'

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Hola!!

We made it to Campo 3! Got our tents set up (no easy feat at 19,600ft) and just finished a delicious freeze dry dinner - it’s just after 5:00pm and we’re headed to bed soon for an early summit start!

We’ve been so inspired by all the amazing people we have met on this mountain — who day in and day out have inspired us with their insane work ethic and positivity. Who always greet us on the trail with a smile and a word of encouragement. By far, the best part about climbing Aconcagua are the people we have met along the way. 

Anne and I were talking about this on the trail today as one of our favorite porters and climbers, Greggo, came sailing down from Camp 3 to help carry some of our tents back up. We remarked how after months on this mountain guiding, climbing, cooking, carrying loads, he always shows up with such joy and big smiles. 

We decided we want to channel that energy to tomorrow when the going gets tough, when we want to quit or when we are fed up with the cumulative suffering, instead we will remember the positivity and kindness of the Argentinians who have shared their mountain with us and carry that strength with us to a hopeful summit.

Here we go!

RMI Guide Jess Wedel and the team 

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Aconcagua Expedition: Gorum & Team’s Rest Day at Base Camp

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 13,800'

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We had breakfast at nine today, our latest of the trip. A casual start to a casual day here at 13,800 feet. Pancakes, eggs, and sausage were on the menu, and we ate until they stopped bringing food. After breakfast, we only had two more items on the agenda. The first of those items was organizing for our carry tomorrow. It didn’t take too long to divvy up group gear. Everyone will carry some amount of group food, fuel, or kitchen equipment tomorrow. This crew was surprisingly eager to grab their respective loads and get packed up, so we were done with task number two by early afternoon. Task number three, dinner, wouldn’t be until 7, so we all had some time to kill. Lucky for us, basecamp is full of spectacles. Today’s spectacle was provided by an unfortunate member of another team. This particular person was using the bathroom, a common enough event here at basecamp. The uncommon part was that he dropped his phone into the pit toilet. The even more uncommon part was that he recovered it. Using a variety of garden tools and good old fashioned ingenuity, he was able to lift his device from the deepest, darkest depths that exist within walking distance of basecamp. In doing so, he provided entertainment for everyone nearby, and before we knew it, dinner was upon us. Steak, potatoes, and some wine for good luck capped off the evening. With our final task of the day completed, we are now headed to bed. We’ll get up earlier tomorrow. We’ve got some actual work to do now. RMI Guides JM Gorum, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello
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