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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Dale & Team Reach Summit of Ixta

January 23, 2019

Posted by: Christina Dale

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico

Elevation: 17,340'

Hey, you blog followers and RMI Family, this is Christina, Grayson and Alan with our amazing team on the summit of Ixtaccihuatl. We are all happy, warmer right now that the sun is coming up. All is well here in Mexico. RMI Guide Christina Dale

RMI Guide Christina Dale calls from the summit of Ixta.

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Great job! Looks like an amazing climb! Can’t wait to hear all about it!!

Posted by: Kerry on 1/24/2019 at 4:41 pm

Thanks to Christina & Co for the great photo and audio clip. We are SO proud of you and wish you continued success and fun! Special props to Andy & Mychal!

Posted by: Stephanie R on 1/24/2019 at 6:23 am

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Aconcagua Expedition: Gorum & Team Enoy the Sun at Camp 2

January 10, 2019

Posted by: JM Gorum, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 18,000'

We’ll call today a weather day. Usually, a team takes a weather day when conditions are too poor to move camp or carry gear higher on the mountain. We took a weather day today solely to take advantage of the first sun and calm winds that we’ve seen in 36 hours. The past few days have been a real test of everyone’s resolve here at Camp Two. Before today, we have basically only left our tents to go to the bathroom, and to do that we had to suit up in boots, parkas, gloves, and goggles. So much of expedition climbing is mental, and that kind of living wears away at everyone. It has done us a lot of good to stand around outside today, sip tea in the sun, and actually enjoy our unique position high in the Andes. Turns out there are actually some really nice views up here. In addition to healing any mental frayed ends, we dried out all of our gear, re-organized, and dialed in our cold weather systems for our summit day. We went on a walk towards high camp to get some blood flowing, and prepped ourselves for the coming days. We will move to high camp tomorrow, and try for the summit on the 12th. Starting tomorrow the days go by quickly, and after our reboot today everyone is chomping at the bit. We’ll check in tomorrow, hopefully from 19,600 feet. RMI Guides JM Gorum, Hannah Smith, and Avery Parrinello

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Clayton, pull your strength through your team. Help the ones that need it and accept the help from the others.
High camp and then summit push. You have your window and one chance at at.
Good luck to you all and a safe summit and descent.

Posted by: Brent Wolfe on 1/10/2019 at 10:41 pm

George you rock, it looks and sounds pretty intense! Now that you are out of phone range etc you can’t call me for pointers and the “What’s next?” But the hard core training I ran you through on the “Great Griffith Climb” I know you got this!
Stay safe and have fun Bro!

Posted by: Becket on 1/10/2019 at 9:49 pm

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Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Prepare for Flight to Antarctica

November 25, 2018

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Our bags are packed and stowed on the Ilyushin 76... the big four engine Russian Jet that will take us down to the Ice. We hope to be off deck first thing tomorrow morning, but that will certainly depend on the weather. The gear got weighed and gathered up just after nine in the morning, so we had plenty of time to go strolling along the shore of Magellan’s Strait. Our next official function was a briefing/cocktail party at ALE headquarters at 4 PM. Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions- is our outfitter and they gathered the fifty or so passengers for our flight to orient and educate us on the trip South. They issued Pisco Sours served over Antarctic ice for the occasion, which was something of a reunion for the guides and frequent climbers in the group. They explained that the weather needs to improve a little, but that there is some reason to hope that it will for a flight tomorrow. My team of five went out for a last restaurant meal and then called it an early evening. We’ll get up early...around 5AM... and we’ll see if conditions have improved. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Retrieve Carry and Train at 14,000’ Camp

June 29, 2018

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello, Nikki Champion

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Thursday, June 28, 2018 - 10:32 PM PT Our first night at 14,000' Camp was quiet and calm. The tent fabric didn’t stir even once with breeze. We were up at around 8AM even though things are still a little shadowy and cold here then. After breakfast, Avery Parrinello led the day’s carry, or more accurately the back carry, since we were going back down to 13,500 ft to bring home the cache we walked past yesterday. It only took about 20 minutes to walk down, but perhaps 90 minutes to come back up with heavy packs. As usual, it clouded up and began snowing on us before we’d gone too far, but that wasn’t much of a problem. The snow continued through the afternoon, but by then we were lounging in our tents. Just before dinner we did a little training session to discuss techniques we’ll employ to climb the “fixed ropes” that lead to the crest of the West Buttress. Throughout the day we touched base with the only other RMI group on the hill, Mike Haugen’s team who were going for the top. It all made our preparations a bit more meaningful to know we’ll be up there knocking on the door soon ourselves. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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J and M-

Thinking of you guys often from sunny/hot Wisconsin. While we soak up the lake views we imagine the mountain scapes before you. (We also think about getting some fresh turns in that powder.)

Enjoy the challenge and the sounds of nature. Wish you the best.

The Merkleins

Posted by: Merklein family on 6/30/2018 at 5:59 am

Hey Tom! Awesome job so far! I’m torked up to hear about the fixed lines when you get to the next camp. I wish I was on your team brother!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/29/2018 at 5:34 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams On Summit

June 6, 2018

Posted by: Brent Okita, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Brent Okita radioed at 6:52 am PT as the Four Day Summit Climb teams were approaching the crater rim. Brent reported chilly temps and light winds. They will enjoy some time on the summit before starting their descent. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb team!

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Absolutely amazing climb!!! Can’t say enough about RMI and to all our guides. You guys really set the tone for my passion for mountaineering. Many a climbs to come with you guys!!! Ecuador, Mexico, Denaili and many more to come!!

Congrats to my new climbing friends on the successful summit!!!

Posted by: Tanner Morrison on 6/7/2018 at 1:35 pm

Amazing Heidi!!! We are all impressed back here at zero elevation. Can’t wait to hear all about it. I hope someone is takin pictures.
Stay warm. Love Eloise, Max and Marco

Posted by: Allison on 6/6/2018 at 3:19 pm

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Denali Expedition: Walter and Team Wait out the Weather

June 3, 2018

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Alan Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Sunday, June 3, 2018 - 2:00 PM PT We woke this morning and looked up at the upper mountain to see a little bit of wind coming off of Denali Pass; something to keep an eye on, but nothing too concerning. Our stoves were stubborn to heat up at this altitude and with these cold temps, but soon they were firing away, working hard to melt our cook pots full of solid ice (which, just last night, were water).The winds of early morning transformed into a menacing lenticular cloud cap that refused to dissipate. We hung around on "stand by" for a few hours, hoping conditions would improve. That never happened and we decided that we would write this one off as a rest day. We're hoping that tomorrow morning will present us with better climbing weather for a summit bid. Stay tuned. RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Hi Tom!
I’ve been following your incredible journey!
I’m hoping the weather cleared for your summit bid!
Can’t wait to hear/see (did you bring a camera? :) all about it once you’re home!
Enjoy the last few days with Mother Nature and your climbing pals!
Shannon

Posted by: SHANNON REILLY on 6/5/2018 at 8:19 pm

Hey Mike, Roby, and Alan,
Please let your team member, Joseph know that his wife and kids wish him a Happy Birthday.
Wishing good luck, Tünde, Angela, és Hanna.

Posted by: Tünde Veis on 6/4/2018 at 4:08 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

June 2, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

Saturday, June 2, 2018 - 3:23 PM PT Early this morning we broke down camp under perfect conditions! The team climbed remarkably strong and we made great time up to our Camp III at 11,000'. We arrived in mid morning to avoid traveling while in the heat of solar rays and overheating our engines. The crew then built camp in short order now we’re settling in for a mid day siesta. We’re strong, happy and stoked with our performance. Tonight we will have a feast of Annie’s Mac and cheese, then we will try to be up before the sun hits us in the morning for a short back carry to retrieve yesterday’s load of groceries, fuel, and personal luggage. That’s all for now from our new camp and currently the rest and hydration station. Cheers, RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Brian Mazaika, and Nick Scott

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Go Team Jones! Go Shawn! August says that next time he want to go with you :-)
Keep up the great work everyone. Awesome progress up this amazing mountain!

Posted by: Kam on 6/3/2018 at 7:36 am

Yes!! Watching you all move up the map is incredibly exciting. Stoked to hear the team is climbing strong and the conditions ideal. Sounds like the team is climbing with style.

Dave and Team, you are in our thoughts and we are cheering on each step higher!!

Love,
B

Posted by: Beth on 6/3/2018 at 4:55 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Make Move to 14,000’ Camp

June 1, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Friday, June 1, 2018 - 12:00 AM PT Basically today could be summed up as everything went exactly as planned. It was incredibly calm this morning with a thin cloud hanging across the Polo Field, that suggested things would get warm. We rocked out of camp, and just kept rolling until we walked into 14,000' Camp around 5.30 to see our friends on Mike Walter's team. We set up camp nearby, a compound of sorts, and now we're diving into sleeping bags, hurried there by the chill air of 14,000' and the sudden departure of the sun behind a ridge. Tomorrow we plan to rest. RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

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Happy Birthday Henry Huntington! You make it harder and harder for me to wish you a happy birthday, but as you learned long ago, I will track you to the ends of the Earth (and pay $6.00/min—which is $15.75 today) just to wish you a happy birthday! (OK, it was yesterday - but there is the surprise!)—Michael

Posted by: Michael Goldstein on 6/3/2018 at 6:31 pm

Happy birthday Henry. Best wishes for a smooth climb.

Posted by: Matthew burek on 6/2/2018 at 12:26 pm

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Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Gately & Team Explore Local Market Then Drive to Cayambe

December 9, 2017

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 15,300'

Despite some menacing afternoon clouds we woke up again to clear beautiful skies. A late breakfast and a short drive brought us to the Otovalo Market, a huge local market full of a wide variety of textiles and food. The team spent an hour and a half exploring the markets many corners, buying gifts for loved ones before meeting for lunch at Buena Vista. From there we headed back towards the town of Cayambe to meet our transfer vehicles that would carry us and our belongings to the Cayambe Climbers Hut at 15,300ft. An hour or so of exciting driving down primitive roads perched on the side of a volcano brought us to our final destination. The team is doing a great job getting readjusted to life without so much oxygen and are patiently awaiting what will no doubt be a wonderful dinner served by the huts cook staff. Thanks for following. Tune in tomorrow for more! RMI Guide Steve Gately

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Shishapangma: Team Explores Lhasa and Travels to Shigatse

September 8, 2016

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Adam Knoff, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Shishapangma

September 7, 2016 This morning we woke up in Lhasa, the spiritual and political capital of Tibet. This city sits over 12,000 feet so it is fair to say there were a couple restless nights and throbbing heads as we adjusted to our new altitude and instant coffee downgrade. After breakfast we took an incredible tour of the Potala Palace. This is without question the most famous landmark in all of Tibet. Built in 1645 as a winter home for the Dali Lama, the sheer size, engineering and magnificence of this palace inspires anyone lucky enough just to lay eyes on it. So we felt privileged to have a three hour tour arranged for us beginning right after breakfast. Once on the streets of Lhasa, this preconceived idea of a beautiful, traditional Buddhist city got zapped straight out of our brains with blaring horns, massive buildings and what one person called the Times Square of Tibet directly in front of the palace's gate. Neon lights, swanky fashion shops, fancy cars, Lhasa has it all. After our brief culture shock we found ourselves deep in the heart of the Potala Palace, sanctuary to over a dozen Dali Lamas in the past 375 years. It is difficult to describe how spectacular this place is. From Dali Lama tombs to prayer rooms to sculptures cast in gold. This place is truly remarkable. After the Palace tour our next excursion began. The 180 mile drive from Lhasa to Shigatse. With both cities holding populations greater than a half million, we simply could not believe the infrastructure projects connecting these two metropolises. Paved highways, massive tunnels through giant mountains, apartment buildings ready to house thousands more Chinese coming to this high mountain desert. Beyond all of the cultural collisions, we made it to Shigatse in just over 7 hours. If you do the math that is an average speed of 26 miles per hour. We drove so slow at times the team thought we would get rear ended by a cow pulling a cart. Ounce finally settled we had a fantastic dinner and can hardly contain our excitement for tomorrow's repeat of snail crawling our way closer to Shishapangma. We are all in great spirits and will touch base tomorrow. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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Most Popular Entries

Mexico’s Volcanoes: Dale & Team Reach Summit of Ixta

On The Map

Aconcagua Expedition: Gorum & Team Enoy the Sun at Camp 2

Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Prepare for Flight to Antarctica

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Retrieve Carry and Train at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams On Summit

Denali Expedition: Walter and Team Wait out the Weather

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Make Move to 14,000’ Camp

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Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Gately & Team Explore Local Market Then Drive to Cayambe

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Shishapangma: Team Explores Lhasa and Travels to Shigatse

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