Hey everybody, this is Eric Frank calling from the summit of Forbidden Peak. It's a few minutes after noon here, and we finally managed to get above the wildfire smoke. So we've just popped up above it and its nice cIean air here. We had a great climb this morning. We left from Camp around 5:30, and here we are on top two and a half hours later. We're going to enjoy a few more moments, and then get packed up to head down. We will call to check in later today and let you know that we're safely back in Camp. Thanks.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
RMI Guide Eric Frank calls from the Forbidden Peak summit in the North Cascades
This morning at 5:45 a.m. the RMI Summit Climb team led by Christina Dale was on top of Mt. Rainier. The team is working their way down the mountain in blue skies and warm temperatures.
Congratulations to the team!
We turned in last night expecting another pulse of wind and snow from the large storm stalled out in Bristol Bay. Instead we slept well through a calm night with little in the way of wind and only minimal snow drift. The West Buttress was windy as noted by the plumes of snow being blown into the atmosphere. We decided to stay in camp should the storm send more weather our way. After a leisurely breakfast of pancakes there was a swell of climbers headed up to 17. Some to pull caches for a descent to Basecamp and some just to stretch the legs and lungs after sitting for several days. Choosing not to get in a traffic jam we decided to stay put. Tomorrow if we are fortunate we'll head up the fixed lines and hopefully to 17 so we can get some climbing in. Unfortunately we still need a larger window of improving weather to move camp to 17. The forecasts are improving when compared to what we actually experience in camp. Fingers crossed we get 3-4 days of low winds above for a summi t bid. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
Scott, hang in there man! Hey, some good news from the Reece clan. We welcomed a new boy this morning! 9lb! Hatcher Chet. Erin and kiddo are doing fine. He was ready get out of his tent and stretch his legs…as you all are I am sure!
Here we are at the Altzimoni hut, checking in after another good day in Mexico. We rose this morning and hit the road from La Malintzi to the town of Amecameca where we picked up some last minute fresh food items for our climb on Ixta. The bus then took us up to the Paso de Cortez, and continued up to the hut here at 13,000 feet.
Upon arriving we grabbed our day packs and went up tomorrow’s trail, towards Ixta high camp, for another acclimatization hike. It’s been a bit cloudy here at the moment but otherwise it’s as beautiful as ever up here in the mountains. The whole team seems to be handling the altitude thus far exceedingly well and I think we’re looking really strong for our trip up to high camp tomorrow.
We fueled up with a nice dinner of carne asada, rice, and fresh tortillas so now it’s time to get some sleep for a day of heavy packs and uphill travel!
RMI Guide Chase Nelson
This is Zeb Blais and team checking in from Mount Baker. We had a pretty tough day today. We started out looking at the North Ridge Route. Due to route difficulties and an impending poor weather forecast, we decided to bail on climbing that route. We shifted our focus to the Coleman-Deming and after a long day of climbing, we got back to camp just a few minutes ago. It was a great climb and we only got rained on for a few minutes. We are back in our tents now waiting out some weather. Our plan is to pack up and head out tomorrow morning. That's all for now.
RMI Guide Zeb Blais
June 25, 2016 - 9:14 pm PT
Checking the weather at 3:30 this morning revealed a slightly gloomy world of clouds. It had snowed, but just a little, and it was calm. So we fired the stoves and rallied the team. While we ate breakfast and got ready to travel, about 50 climbers from at least a half dozen teams trudged by on the final day of their expeditions. More or less happily heading for the exits. We recognized and shouted greetings to many of the guides. They'd all tagged the top in the last couple of days after waiting out prolonged storms.
Our team packed up and got on the track as if they'd been climbing for weeks. We were moving by 6:15 AM with the sky clearing and trail conditions far better than they'd been the day before. On the compacted and frozen surface our sleds were a lot easier to pull. We charged up "Ski Hill" and after a couple of rest breaks and some tough uphill sections we pulled in to the plateau at 9,300 ft and dug a new camp in the snow. By noon, most of the team were headed into their new homes to nap and get out of the intense sunshine. We passed a lazy and quiet afternoon without much more sign of other teams. We've already got the place to ourselves, it seems.
We'll get up early again and see if we can get up to 11,000 ft tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
May 19, 2016 - 2:44 p.m. PDT
One plane is flying up in ten minutes, and with luck, the rest of the team will follow shortly thereafter. Here we go!
The pilot gives us a 30% chance of actually getting to the mountain. I think otherwise. More like a 30% of having to return to Talkeetna, but good to have a sober expectation of our chances.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Well, what a day. We went to bed last night to cold temps and high winds and by the time we woke this morning at 2 am the winds had calmed and the temps were on the rise. The climbing was tough right out of camp today, mixed snow and rock conditions up the Knees Route made for some challenging conditions. However, once we crested the "Knees" the roller coaster ridge line of Ixta made for some great climbing. Conditons for the rest of the climb were ideal and we enjoyed a great summit and descent. We really snuck the climb in today because on the way down from High Camp conditions began to deteriorate. We are all currently on a bus to Puebla, where we will be resting and sightseeing tomorrow before gearing up for our climb of Pico de Orizaba.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Billy Haas
This morning we woke to coffee in bed and blue skies above. We had a leisurely morning, after breakfast we napped in the sun and slowly packed our bags. At mid day we had a delicious lunch and spent some more time packing and digesting before hoisting our packs and heading up to Moraine Camp. Everyone did a fantastic job getting up here. Shortly after we moved into the tents our porters arrived with tea and dinner, these guys are amazing! We are now enjoying the alpine glow on some of the surrounding peaks of the Cordillera Blanca before turning in for the night.
The team is doing great and very excited to be making up hill progress again.
Thanks for following along with us.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Alpamayo team
So far the “hike” sounds like one of those glamping vacations. Step it up guys! John-I hope you enjoyed the glacier bathing. I once jumped into a glacier lake near Lone Pine. My heart stopped for a few seconds. I thought of you almost every step of the 3200 steps I took tonight in the stairwell. You probably have a better view. I can’t wait to see your pictures. Tante
July 11, 2015 7:58 pm PST
All enjoyed the "low" altitude sleep at 11,000 ft last night. Such a relief from the past few days at higher and colder locales. As was always the plan, we chose to stay in place today in order to get on a night-time schedule for exiting the lower Kahiltna Glacier. It was a fine day for resting, even as the weather seemed to deteriorate around us. Our hope was that clear skies and a cool night would make travel safer (from a crevasse standpoint) and easier. That might not happen tonight as there is still plenty of cloud, but we'll get up at midnight and head for our pickup point anyway. As usual, we'll need good luck and good weather to get down and off the mountain.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
CONGRATULATIONS! Thanks to Dave Hahn and his assistants for the successful climb to the summit. Job well done by all. We deeply enjoyed the daily reports, Dave. Thank you. Gary, your Dad & I have been getting into shape to climb next year with Dave next year. Keep in mind we didn’t say which Dave. Looking forward seeing you in St.Louis. Come home safe. Hugs and Lots of Love.
CONGRATULATIONS! Thanks to Dave Hahn and his assistant making the climb a success for the team. Gary, we are super proud of your success. Dad & I are practicing the hill in Ohio, getting in shape to be on Dave’s team next year. Keep in mind we didn’t say which Dave. Looking forward to seeing our son in St. Louis. Hugs & Lots of Love.
Posted by: Dad & Mom ROSS on 7/13/2015 at 1:24 pm
Gary/Team Hahn: Absolute CONGRATULATIONS. Enjoy the moments of VICTORY!!!!!!!
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Scott, hang in there man! Hey, some good news from the Reece clan. We welcomed a new boy this morning! 9lb! Hatcher Chet. Erin and kiddo are doing fine. He was ready get out of his tent and stretch his legs…as you all are I am sure!
Posted by: Luke on 6/20/2018 at 12:33 pm
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