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Mt. Everest Expedition: First Rotation Complete

Our first rotation up the hill is completed. We came down the Icefall this morning in fresh falling snow, which muffled sound, concealed crevasses and greatly reduced traffic. Normally, after three nights acclimating at Camp One, we'd have gotten up a little earlier and come down a bit sooner in the morning, but daybreak at close to 20,000 ft was a bit different this time around. We had received a foot of snow in the past 24 hours and listened to avalanches running almost constantly down the steep faces of Nuptse and Everest West Shoulder. We weren't terribly anxious to run out and test our luck at finding the path through the icefall, but a few things began to work in our favor. Although no Sherpas were breaking trail from below on such a day, a few teams at Camp One were more anxious to get down than we were. We actually contemplated sitting another day to let things settle and improve, but once a few bigger teams had plowed a trail down and a short break in the storm materialized, we decided to capitalize and descend. We packed and closed our tents up tight and began walking toward Basecamp at around 9:30 AM. It wasn't a quick descent, we were quite careful stepping through the concealing powder and onto shaky ladders as the snowstorm returned to make things interesting. We were all stunned to see that the "horseshoe hotel" had fallen. This was a massive free-standing cube of glacier which we'd been passing under with a fair amount of trepidation. It came down all at once... luckily with no one in the vicinity, and we were amazed to see that the massive chunks of debris had fallen in several directions... But they hadn't bulldozed away the climbing route. The intervening crevasses had done their work and swallowed up a whole lot of hotel. The snows kept falling and we kept working our way down in a quiet cloud. Eventually we came out from under the clouds just as we reached the less hazardous features at the bottom of the Icefall. We weren't able to do everything we wanted on this rotation; it certainly would have been nice to have hiked up and touched ABC (Camp 2) but it would have been foolish in the snowstorm, so we mostly sat in our tents yesterday... But that also can lead to good acclimatization when the tents are high enough. Now we'll enjoy the relative comforts of Basecamp (although the snowstorm has seemed to follow us down) First; tables and chairs and food served up by the plateful... Later showers and shaves and the freedom of walking around without worry of crevasses and cliffs. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Climb to 13,400ft, Return to 11,000ft Camp

Wednesday, May 26, 2021 - 12:01 am PT

What do motorcycles and squirrels have in common? They’re both steep hills we climbed on our way to cache our gear at 13,420 feet! From our cache we gained our first views of the fixed lines up to 17,000' Camp and the Messner Coulior. We descended with light packs enjoying the sunshine with beautiful views of the lower Kahiltna flowing south and green tundra stretching as far west into the distance as the eye can see.

RMI Guide Eric Frank

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E-L-L-I-O-T

DAMN, hope your were able to fit your snowboard in your pack; STUNNER!

Definitely rarified air.

Let the journey be the focus.

Belgian Ales @ Hopleaf await.

I just can’t grasp why you haven’t been texting me lots of pictures - ha!

Love ya, my Brother

ET

Posted by: Shawn Dalgleish on 5/26/2021 at 5:05 pm

WOW Heidi!  We think we spotted you in this most recent photo!  I shared your whole expedition thus far during homeroom with the third grade.  They loved it. 
I hope you packed enough chapstick.  That wind looks fierce.  Keep on doing awesome!  Kirby says you are a BEAST!

Posted by: Allison santana on 5/26/2021 at 10:41 am


Kahiltna Seminar: Halliday & Team Climb Radio Tower

Tuesday, May 24, 2022 - 6:36 pm PT

On Monday, we awoke to scattered clouds and cooler temps around Base Camp. As the sun rose above the clouds we left camp to refresh some of our climbing skills.  After taking naps during the heat of the day we learned about knots for climbing and prepared for our attempt on Radio Tower.

The mountains are calm today.  The clouds are fickle and we are now sitting back in camp surrounded by a fog that has moved up the Kahiltna Glacier. We reached the top of Radio Tower today, the small prominence that sits above camp. We were met with impressive views of the north side of Mt. Hunter and the Moonflower Buttress.

RMI Guide Alex Halliday

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Hey Tim! It’s your grandma wishing you safe and happy travels! Love you.

Posted by: Susan Cote on 5/28/2022 at 10:31 am

Great to hear the update. Hopefully the weather will be perfect.

Posted by: Mary & Mike Macklin on 5/25/2022 at 5:42 pm


RMI Guide Robby Young Recaps Climbing The North Ridge of Forbidden Peak

When the summer climbing season is in full swing, RMI guides look for every opportunity to get into the mountains. RMI Guide Robby Young took advantage of a few days off from guiding recently to climb the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades. RMI Guide Robby Young navigating through the crevasses on the North Ridge of Forbidden. With the summer climbing season on Mt. Rainier in full swing, it has become a bit more difficult to sneak away and enjoy the classic alpine routes in the North Cascades. My climbing partner, Mike, recently came to town and I wanted him to experience the beauty of the North Cascade Alpine Rock. Given that it was Mike’s first time in the range, we instinctively set our sights on the classic pinnacle summit of Forbidden Peak. Climbing the North Ridge of Forbidden in the North Cascades. The beautifully long and committing North Ridge fit the bill for a true alpine adventure. Unlike its prestigious West Ridge neighbor, the north ridge route involved a more indirect approach, which required climbing up and over the Sharkfin Col and across the remote and broken Boston Glacier. It gave the route a more remote alpine feel. Once on the ridge proper, the climbing soon became uninterrupted and classic as we made “quick” work of the never-ending knife ridge and vertical gendarmes. As anticipated, the summit of Forbidden did not disappoint, gifting us with views of some neighboring North Cascade summits like Eldorado, Torment, Boston, Sahale, and Buckner. Our descent down the West Ridge and back into Boston Basin ended as often long North Cascade routes do, in the dark; leaving us exhausted but eagerly anticipating future adventures in this beautiful range. RMI Guide Robby Young and his climbing partner enjoy the knife edge ridge on Forbidden. ________ RMI Guide Robby Young leads climbs in Washington's Cascades and the Alaska Range. Robby is an an accomplished ski mountaineer, ski patroller and photographer.
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Mt. Baker: Burns & Team Summit via the Easton Glacier

RMI Guides Seth Burns, Josh Geiser and Michael Murray reached the summit of Mt. Baker today with 100% of their team.  Seth reported a nice sunrise climb this morning via the Easton Glacier.  The team will return to camp for their final night on the mountain.  Tomorrow they will walk out to the trailhead and conclude their program.

Congratulations to the team!

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Torres del Paine: King & Team Hikes Up the French Valley

Today we had a 14-mile day from Paine Grande into the French Valley. The trail was mostly a goat path into the valley with some clouds and light rain overhead. Since we are on the “W” portion of the trek, the trails have become more crowded but nothing like a busy summer day on the Muir snowfield. The views from the French valley include a large alpine cirque with massive granite spires and peaks encircling a dense forest. The clouds kept things cool, the rain made for wet rocks to focus our footwork on and the 15 miles after 7 days of walking made for sore feet. We are at Frances Domes camp for the night. The salmon and lentils were delicious, the pisco sours very drinkable. Tomorrow we’ll hike to Torres central and spend the night, which sets us up for a morning day hike to the Torres on Wednesday. It’s windy and a little rainy, into our wood stove heated domes we go. Thanks for following along. 

RMI Guide Mike King

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Happy Valentine’s Day everyone!

Posted by: Lana Green on 2/14/2022 at 5:08 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Final Rest Day at Base Camp

Today is our third and final rest day before we head back up the Ice fall to begin our second rotation. If all goes as planned, this rotation will consist of spending one night at Camp 1 and then four nights at Camp 2 before returning back down to Base Camp. Our plan after that is then to rest for a couple of days, then to climb back up to Camp 1 and 2 and sleep as high as Camp 3 before returning back down. This would be our third rotation and the final rotation before our summit bid. Then we will rest for a week or so. If all goes well, we will make our summit push sometime in the latter part of May. Mentally and physically, this next month will be the hardest month of my life. I worry that I won't be physically strong enough to climb through all of these rotations, and that I might lose my focus. It's so mentally difficult climbing down when it took so much effort climbing up to that spot, but I do know that every time I do climb up to a point where I've been before I feel stronger and I can breathe easier. I also completely understand why we have to climb up and down for acclimatization purposes, but doing so has been a huge challenge. As difficult as it may seem, the first month of this trip has been one of the most extraordinary experiences of my life and I know this second month will be just as amazing. I've met some incredible people, and never in my life have I been more breath taken at the place that I'm in. Base Camp has begun feeling like home. I want to say hi to all my family and friends, and I want to thank everyone for the comments and support. Sara McGahan
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SAAYYY!! i love you so much and im so proud of you!! All of us have been following you on the blog and i am so happy you are experiencing this because it sounds truly amazing! STAY STRONG AND KNOW THAT I THINK ABOUT YOU EVERDAY BABY.

Posted by: Margaret Walker on 5/1/2011 at 10:09 am

Sara, my thoughts and prayers are with you and your father! It is truly amazing and inspiring to me! Keep your spirits high and stay strong. When you are back Angela and i will have to hear all about this amazing adventure!!! xoxo Heather

Posted by: heather yager on 5/1/2011 at 5:24 am


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Descend to 11,000ft for Short Rest

Tuesday, July 5, 2022 - 8:25 pm PT

We pulled out of 14,000' at 10:30 this morning.  Winds were still blowing up high, it certainly wouldn’t have been a summit day, but much of the low cloud had cleared out.  The couple of hours down around Windy Corner, across the Polo Field, down Squirrel and Motorcycle Hills were the usual insane sled rodeo.  The sleds don’t like being heavy or on a side hill and so they flip a lot and we all just try to keep smiling and pulling.  We set up camp -possibly our last- in early afternoon and dove in for naps.  We’ve just eaten dinner now and we’re napping once more.  The plan is to get up in three hours (at 10 PM) and to set off around midnight toward the airstrip on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna.  We’re hoping the surface of the lower glacier freezes up hard and that our timing is just right for taking advantage of that freeze.

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Carstensz Pyramid:  Team Meets in Bali

Hello from the Carstensz Pyramid team, What a way to start an expedition. Mountain climbers surf Bali! Fresh red snapper for lunch and solid 3 foot swell for dessert. I love my job! We head to the airport at midnight tonight for a 2 am flight to the town of Timika on the Island of New Guinea. The whole team and all bags are here and ready. Everyone is looking forward to the rest of this adventure. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Bill,Sara & Kayie,
Lots of Luck, Hope the wheather is suitable and most important stay safe.
XXOO,
Aunt Marie

Posted by: Marie McGahan on 7/4/2012 at 6:46 pm

So happy to be able to follow you all on this blog! Please be safe!!! We love you’ll!

Posted by: lisa mcgahan on 6/27/2012 at 2:56 am


Vinson Massif: Team Returns to Punta Arenas

This is Dave Hahn calling from Antarctica our Vinson season ended today. About midday, around 11 AM, we flew from Vinson Basecamp back to Union Glacier. Today was a beautiful day out there, big blue sky all around, the clouds were gone and we had good flying conditions back to Union Glacier. The Illyusion came in this evening and my climbers should be getting to Punta Arenas right about now. I'm still in Antarctica; I am going to stay on for one more project down here to the South Pole. T.A, Mindy and Vlado should be enjoying Punta Arenas tonight. A successful trip all around. RMI Guide Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Union Glacier.

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Hi to Mark and other others from Alaska, finally some snow here, skate skiing down to Moose’s Tooth for Pizza and beer! See you in January.

Posted by: John S. on 12/12/2012 at 4:50 pm

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