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As planned, we took the day off. Sure enough, it looked like the storm had arrived on the upper mountain. We could see wind sculpted clouds attached to all of the high ridges and peaks, but it wasn’t that bad down at our level. We ate a leisurely breakfast until it was lunch time, then retired to the tents for naps and reading and organizing personal gear. The sun was never at full power but even through the clouds, we could feel it in the tents and so it wasn’t too cold. We got together for a late afternoon snack and then for dinner at close to 9 PM. Two of the other groups chose to move up to
Low Camp today and so we’ll have eye witnesses as to actual conditions up there tomorrow when we are trying to decide whether to move up. The forecast isn’t yet calling for the end of the storm, but these typically blow through in a couple of days.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
We had a full value experience on Mt. Baker this weekend. With positive enthusiasm, 12 women met early in the morning in Sedro-Wolley with coffee and gear to hit the trail. We carpooled up to the Park Butte Trail Head on the
Easton Glacier of Baker and started up the trail. The heavy packs didn't phase anyone and soon the trail conversations were running full speed ahead. After a five-hour hike into Sandy Camp at the toe of the glacier we set up camp in the rain. On the flanks of Mount Baker without any view of anything more than six feet away we had a nice dinner and early to bed to stay dry. Unfortunately, we woke to the pitter-patter of rain in the morning but managed a nice cup of coffee and some training in the rain on the snow slopes around us. Sunday morning was our anticipated summit bid but the mountain had other plans for our team. With a deluge of rain and strong winds, we decided the summit wasn't in the cards for us this time. We had the opportunity to be in a storm! Nothing beats this group of climbers. Even after naming the lakes forming in the bottom of the tents, everyone kept smiling. Never a complaint about the sopping wet boots just a choice to put our feet in plastic bags then in our boots. To the best storm fairing team ever, your guides
Jessie,
Lydia, and
Christina thank you for making the trip a great experience.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
May 25, 2018 - 10:01 AM PT
Our bags are packed, we're ready to go...and here our patient and excited group waits with boots on in the K2 hanger. The skies are clearing and we'll be airborne momentarily. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Christina Dale
The team sends their greetings from 12,500ft. We all made it up to the
Garabashi Hut in good style today. Everyone got moved in, and then went for a nice jaunt in perfect weather. We got a little training in on our new snowy surface, and then headed back to the huts for a nice lunch. Nobody is going hungry just yet.
The heat of the day lead to some building clouds, precipitation, and eventually some light thunderstorms in the distance. People spent the afternoon reading, writing, and napping. We're settling in quite nicely up here. Check in tomorrow.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
On The Map
We had a great first day with our crew, stretching our legs on a
city tour of Moscow. Our guide Victoria took us on a circuit of the Kremlin, Red Square and St. Basil's Cathedral, after which we enjoyed a nice lunch at "the restaurant of many menus". All is great with us.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
We left
Machame Camp 9,890' in cloudy skies but only for a short stretch. The gnarled trunks of the giant heather disappeared and we entered yet another zone, the moorland. After ascending a wide ridge we gained the broad and sloping Shira Plateau at about 12,570' and nearly three miles later we gained beautiful views of Kilimanjaro's upper slopes and Mt. Meru, our near by neighbor, standing at about 15,000'. A fine hot lunch and beautiful camp site greeted us upon arrival at Shira Camp.
The team continues doing well and we are having a good time.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
Today was a big day, we loaded our packs and dawned our climbing equipment and walked away from Moraine camp. Once on the glacier we slowly worked our way around crevasses as we worked upward to the col. About 800 feet shy of the col we encountered to first of the three steeper pitches which the team dispatched with no problems. Everyone climbed very well and just before 3 pm we were all at our high camp. This is also where we caught our first glimpse of the face we will climb. We settled into our tents for a quick nap before tea time and then dinner. As
Alpamayo caught the alpenglow of the last light of the day we retired to our sleeping bags, tired but very happy.
Tomorrow we rest before we make our summit attempt the following day.
RMI Guide
Geoff Schellens & Team
Sometimes the stars just align, and they did for our climbing team on
Cayambe this morning. Yesterday we traveled from Otavalo to the town of Cayambe where we transferred from a bus to four-wheel drive vehicles. A beautiful drive up into the Cayambe-Coca National Park soon became a unique cultural experience as the 4x4s were stymied by wildly rutted and muddy roads en route to the climbers’ hut. We got out of the vehicles and began harvesting “paja”, or tall straw-like grass from the roadside to through onto the road for added traction. After about 45 minutes all three of our vehicles made it through the troublesome areas and we continued on to the climbing hut at 4600m. Light rain turned to blue skies and we got some great views of the next day’s objective. We were cautiously optimistic about the changing weather pattern for
Cayambe (we had seen Cayambe from various peaks over the previous week, and it always looked windy and stormy).
I woke up this morning (actually last night at 10:30pm) and checked the weather. I was psyched to see a starry night without a single cloud in the sky, and very little wind. We ate a light breakfast, packed up, and left the hut at 12:15am. It took us about an hour to approach the toe of the glacier where we donned crampons and iced axes. We ascended moderate slopes up the Hermosa Glacier, avoiding the heavily crevassed peripheries. After tackling the Bergshrund and ascending a short pitch of steep ice, we found ourselves on the summit eight hours after we set out from the hut. Stunning views of the high peaks of
Ecuador greeted us: Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, Antisana, and the Illinizas, all stood tall, unobstructed by clouds. The descent went smoothly and three hours later we were back at the climbers’ hut. The clouds kept threatening to cover up Cayambe on our descent, but they held off until the last 20 minutes before we hit the hut.
After an early wake-up call and a long day in the mountains, we are now settled in to our home for the night, Guachala, the oldest hacienda in Ecuador with history back to the 16th century. Our team will head back to Quito tomorrow for a celebratory dinner and our last night together in Ecuador.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
June 2, 2016 - 8:31 p.m. PDT
Twas a day to rest here in ol' Talkeetna. Our team practiced crevasse rescue in the hangar. Scaling ropes like we would to get ourselves out of a crevasse, should we fall into one on the Kahiltna. To cover our bases we then reviewed how to pull a teammate out of a hole using a jungle gym in the yard outside our piles of gear. Then we all solemnly swore not to fall in a crevasse, the most important part of the deal.
Post training we settled in to wait for a weather window decent enough to fly the 50 miles to
Kahiltna Basecamp. Unfortunately we were unable to fly today. The team has done well with the uncertainty and though we are raring to go, we know that getting to the mountain safely is a step we mustn't skip.
Wish us luck for tomorrow and hopefully we will be checking in from the mountains!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Early departure from one of the world's largest cities. Traffic not so bad as we made the three-hour drive to our first big mountain,
La Malinche at 14,636 feet. A nice lunch was had near this peak that is surrounded by fields of corn and beautiful stands of pine trees. We made a quick turn of unloading our equipment in the digs for the night, which is a comfortable cabin with fireplace and even a hot shower. It was all uphill from there. Great to get out and hit the trail. The idea was to the top but getting used to the altitude and some new equipment was the priority. We made good time up the lower forested area and found the team on the summit ridge at the same time as a strong weather impulse hit the upper mountain. Hail, rain in the clouds, no visibility and wind a howling gave us great training with the kit that was pulled from our packs to keep us protected from the nasty weather. A number of our team hit new altitude records and a smooth descent has us fed and clean in the digs for the night. All is good wish u were here.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
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Hi Dale,
It doesn’t look like Logan down there. I am hoping for a successful climb and safe travels. The best of luck to you and the team.
Thanks,
Ed
Posted by: Ed Heath on 12/1/2018 at 1:18 pm
Here’s to a successful climb. Will be following blog through the 14th. With u in spirit!
Marti Smith
Maineville OH
Posted by: Marti Smith on 12/1/2018 at 1:13 am
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