Hello, this is RMI Guide Elias Andres and the Alpamayo team, along with local guide, Peter. We are currently at high camp on Alpamayo at 5,400 meters. The team crushed it. We came up here in a mere four hours overcoming some steep terrain, but it was not difficult for anybody. We are currently setting up camp. Everyone will be chill tomorrow. We are going to take advantage of the elevation to continue to acclimatize for the summit bid and let a couple of teams that arrived here ahead of us climb the mountain so we have the route to ourselves. We'll keep you posted tomorrow. Stay tuned at this time and we will let you know how we are doing, which is presumably very, very well. Hopefully in 48 hours you will have a summit report. That's it for now.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Alpamayo High Camp.
Hi Kara
The mtn. looks awesome. I know you’re having a ball.
Kristen and all enjoyed your kayak while you were hiking.
Everyone here sends their best. Can’t wait to hear about
the summit.
Love Mom
Posted by: Jean on 7/21/2015 at 8:36 am
Andres - thank you for the great radio report - best to Wolf and the team and have a chill day! Feli (Wolf’s wife)
Posted by: felicitas funke-riehle on 7/20/2015 at 8:30 pm
The Five Day Summit Climb August 22 - 26 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today, the final day of their program. RMI Guide Gloria Roe led the team to the summit. As of 8:40 AM PT they were starting their descent from the crater rim. We look forward to seeing the team at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon for their team celebration.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guides Steve Gately and Bryan Mazaika were standing on Columbia Crest, the very top of Mt. Rainier at 7:30 am this morning. The team climbed above the clouds and have clear beautiful skies. They have started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's Teams!
It was a beautiful day here on Elbrus.
We had a normal start to our day with breakfast in the hotel and then loaded up all our climbing gear and drove to the base of the ski lift where we rode not one, not two, but three gondolas to reach our new home for the next few days and happens to sit at just over 12,000ft. It's rather comfortable up here, as our outfitter has taken a few shipping containers and converted them into simple bunk rooms that sit atop some makeshift skis so they can be moved. Creative to say the least!
Once we got settled into our new home we headed uphill on another acclimatizing hike and reached about 13,500ft before returning to camp where our wonderful cook Dasha had a nice hot lunch waiting for us.
We spent the remaining of the afternoon relaxing, walking around and just enjoying the views of the Caucasus Mountain Range.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz, led by Mike Haugen, spent the week training as they built up to their summit push. With an alpine start from their high camp on the Kautz Glacier, the team began their quest. They accomplished their summit goal just after 7:00 a.m. this morning and then began their descent via the Disappointment Cleaver Route. Mike reported moderate winds and snow. The team will make their way back to Ashford later today.
And we arrived to Copa BC! A good 5 hour approach, brought us to the drainage if the Lajiacocha lake, at some 14,800ft. Some clouds are currently covering the skies, and we can tell snow falling up high, but spirits are high...we're on the mountains! Our cook is prepping our dinner, and the night is falling. Without going crazy, tomorrow we'll move to high camp. We'll be calling from there, all excited about our summit push!
RMI Guide Elias deAndres Martos and Team.
Buenas tardes from Ishinca Base camp. Rest day today with a good session of rope self rescue and abseiling in the afternoon is what was in the agenda. We're climbing Urus East tonight, so an even heartier dinner was served before early bed time, which was delayed by the stories shared over the after-dessert tea. Weather keeps holding pretty good, and all seems lined up for a good day up the closest of the towers reigning over this unreal valley.
Stay tuned for our recap tomorrow,
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
-Spanish climbing word of the day; "grieta" (crevasse)
June 24, 2016 - 10:45 pm PT
The team had a fun filled rest day today at 14 camp. We kicked off the day with a lox and bagels brunch, and then rallied out to the "edge of the world," a dramatic rock outcropping outside of camp that affords breathtaking views of the West Rib of Denali, Mount Hunter, Mount Foraker, and much of the Alaska range. We took turns posing with ice axe in hand- sometimes using it to play air guitar, to point to the summit, or just to accentuate the American flag scarf that was being worn instead of a shirt. Whatever style each of us went with, fun was had by all and morale was tip top. We rounded out the afternoon by practicing fixed line travel and running belays, as well as organizing our food and gear for our carry to 17K camp tomorrow. Oh yeah, and we also did a little trauma shear salon session, which left Pepper Dee looking extra stylish. It's gently snowing at the moment, and we feel poised to push up even higher in the morning.
Goodnight!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
I’m sure my brother Phil is having a great time! The pictures are amazing! I’m keeping everyone updated on Facebook with Mike’s daily blog and photos, and everyone wishes the whole team success in your amazing efforts! Stay safe from all of us, and for my brother Phil, I love you and am so proud and happy for you to reach one of your dreams! Mary says Hi as well! Ed
Posted by: Ed Goss on 6/26/2016 at 5:27 am
It’s fun following your blog every day, love the pictures! Can’t wait to see more. Thoughts and prayers for good weather and safe climbing. Enjoy the adventure!!! (Love you Jon! Hope you make it to the summit for your Birthday!! ....Mom)
Posted by: Elizabeth Beckett on 6/25/2016 at 7:23 pm
Hey it's Billy checking in. We are all back safe and sound at our camp on Chimborazo. We're about to actually hike on down to the bus. We had a safe and successful climb to the summit today. Just about perfect weather most of the day. That's all I have to report. Long, long day- everyone is super tired but definitely big smiles on our faces. As we were just talking about this, it totally rethinks our whole trip down here. That's all I have for now. Signing off and we'll check in again tomorrow evening at the end of the trip.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in post Chimborazo summit.
The "improving trend" turned out to be a bunch of baloney and shortly after finishing my dispatch last night the starry sky clouded over and began to steadily pour almost without relent. We woke in the morning and the steady downpour had not begun to show signs of letting up. The team decided over breakfast that with the zero probability of climbing Antisana, that our best move was to pack up and hike out and hopefully dry out at a hacienda. So here we are, some time on the road later hanging up all of our gear to dry yet again at another hacienda this time at a scenic spot at the base of the Illinizas. Despite the tough weather the gang is doing our best to have fun and enjoy the Ecuadorian countryside. All this traveling has been fun but we're hoping to get in a little more legit climbing before our trip winds down.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Hi Kara
The mtn. looks awesome. I know you’re having a ball.
Kristen and all enjoyed your kayak while you were hiking.
Everyone here sends their best. Can’t wait to hear about
the summit.
Love Mom
Posted by: Jean on 7/21/2015 at 8:36 am
Andres - thank you for the great radio report - best to Wolf and the team and have a chill day! Feli (Wolf’s wife)
Posted by: felicitas funke-riehle on 7/20/2015 at 8:30 pm
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