Entries from Mt. McKinley
Tuesday, July 2, 2013
There was some reason for optimism at 6 this morning when snow stopped falling and we were granted a view of some blue sky and the
upper mountain. The guides got up and out to brew a cup of coffee and to watch the skies. It was considerably colder at 11,000 ft this morning, down to about what should be "normal" for this place. We watched clouds build up again and eventually we found ourselves in another snowstorm before we could even call the gang to breakfast. Mike King taught a well-attended seminar on knots and hitches in the main dining tent for a good chunk of the morning. Some lounged the day away in the POSH while others returned to their own tents to clear the snow and read/sleep/zone-out. Our afternoon was brightened when our good friends Tyler Jones and Laura Rogers, of RMI and Whittaker Mountaineering respectively came skiing down out of the storm. They are up to play and were just successful a few days back in climbing Denali's North Peak. They regaled us with all of the news of the other teams around the mountain and a pretty comprehensive wrap up of the entire season in the range. Eventually, they moved down into the clouds to get a little closer to Basecamp and we moved back into our POSH tent for dinner and a final round of stimulating conversation before bed. We remain optimistic that the snow will quit and the clouds will flee.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Tuesday, July 2, 2013
We had a little bit of a false start here this morning. We woke at 5.30 to clear conditions, and lower winds up above. Altogether, it was a great looking scene, albeit cold; the coldest temps we have seen all trip. We ate a hasty breakfast, and packed camp to move to 17,000'. As we started to walk, clouds began to build, and the winds on the
Buttress were rising too. At the base of the fixed lines, we decided that today wasn't the day to make our move, and we retreated back to 14,200' to reset camp. A day like today is tough, but we made the right decision, and everyone is in good spirits. We're hoping that tomorrow morning provides a better opportunity!
Until then, best from Alaska.
RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and team
On The Map
July 1, 2013
We are still here. And by here, I mean
McKinley Basecamp airstrip in a snowstorm. I am usually an optimist in these types of situations, but the forecast is for days of the muck.
In order to improve international relations, we have adopted two Russian climbers that reached the summit the same day we did and are stuck with us. Andre and Igor pretend to like our jokes and our cooking so we will keep them awhile!
I told the group we were making them Vietnamese Pho for dinner. Really it was Ramen with some dehydrated vegetables. Although they knew what it was, they put some Sriracha hot sauce in it and humored me!
RMI Summit Team 6
P.S. Cindee says Happy Birthday Roger!
On The Map
Monday, July 1, 2013
Our storm got real in the night, with cannon-like broadsides of wind and ice particles assaulting the tents. It was serious enough that the guides were out stumbling around from midnight to 2 AM,
cutting snow blocks and building walls, but not serious enough that the whole team needed to be in on the fun. It snowed and blew for much of the night, with the wind changing direction every now and then in order to keep things interesting. Although the alarm had been set early for climbing, it was obvious as the morning progressed that we'd simply have to hunker down and ride out the storm. Around mid-morning we rallied the whole crew to eat breakfast, dig out tents and build more walls. Then it was back into the tents for a few hours. We finished the day with some avalanche transceiver training by Zeb Blais, a fine dinner by Erik Nelson and Mike King, and some tall tales by yours truly.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
One can call it a rest day, or weather day depending on perspective, but we took the opportunity of winds up high and snow, to rest up our legs for another day at
14,000' on Mt. McKinley. It hasn't been too bad here, with sporadic gusts of wind, some snow falling from the sky, and most snow just blowing around the ground. Our walls are doing their job, and nobody was complaining about a day of sport eating in the tents, getting our reserves up for the big push. We'd love to see this weather move out and give us our chance, as we are all ready, but with no control over that, we're going to patiently watch and wait. We'll let you know what happens tomorrow: we may still be sitting here, or we may be up at 17, getting ready for a summit bid! Send positive weather vibes our way! Best from the mountain,
RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and team
On The Map
Sunday, June 30, 2013
After waking up at 2 in the morning and making a massive push to get to the landing strip, we are stuck in freezing rain with no hope for a flight today.
Peter- Cannot wait to see my loving wife and daughter Maggie. Had a great trip!
Grasshopper- Dream realized. Love to everyone!
Cindy- Thanks for all of the great comments! Maija, the Internet code is Zootrubie :)
Sandra- Cant wait for Thanksgiving in Hawaii!
Quinn- Save my seat on the couch. Give everyone a hug! See you all soon.
Lance- Cannot wait to see my three girls! Kisses to all.
Steve- To Bill and Lisa, where are the gluten free Pop Tarts? Tania, can't wait to see you as soon as possible my darling!
Uchal- family : I love you all so much and thank you for the understanding and support. I can't wait to see everyone when I get back. I have decided to leave NC this winter so I can spend more time in Roc City. Keep the couches open - I am coming home.
Katie- To Mom and Dad, love you and miss you. See you soon!
Haugen- Love you Amber, Paris, Paige, Brigitte, Jack, Alex! I love you mom and dad and I for sure owe you a Halibut dinner!! Thank you all for the blog comments!
On The Map
Sunday, June 30, 2013
What a perfect day
for a rest day! The day dawned calm, but with frequent clouds blotting out the sun. We had a nice, leisurely breakfast, with lots of story telling, chatting, and coffee, and a great afternoon siesta. Then, right on que, the winds and snow that were forecasted to start, rolled into camp. All the work on our snow walls paid off, and we are happily sitting in our protected tents, listening to the freight train roar on the buttress above. It wouldn't be Alaska without some weather, and we are happy to be sitting at 14k rather than 17k! With all our preparations made, we'll sit here and patiently wait this out until the mountain and weather say it's our turn to go.
Best from here,
RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and crew
On The Map
Sunday, June 30, 2013
Another Denali day, another camp built. We slept in until three this morning and then sprang into action. It doesn't get dark in this part of Alaska in late June, but it gets shadowy, which can be a beautiful thing, even with a storm moving in. It was pretty plain, as we ate breakfast and then knocked down our tents at 9500 ft, that the forecasts were correct and that it wouldn't be long before weather deteriorated. But we felt we still had a little time. As we were getting ready, we enjoyed seeing Mike Haugen's victorious climbing team passing through on their descent. We exchanged handshakes, hugs, route information and then wished each other well. We were out of the old camp and on the site of our new one at 11,000 ft in just over three hours, which meant that we were sitting pretty a few hours after that when things began to get nasty. It rained a bit through the afternoon, which is not so typical this high up Denali, but by evening it was the more typical onslaught of wind and snow. By then we were well dug in and ready for it.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Sunday, June 30th, 2013
Greetings!
After spending some time resting and recuperating at 14K Camp, we jumped on the tiger today, aka the fixed lines, and climbed to 16,700' to cache gear and food at Washburn's Thumb. The steep and often exposed climbing was some of first of the expedition, and the team performed exceptionally. The hard work of the day was rewarded with a team favorite meal consisting of Annie's Mac and Cheese with bacon. Tomorrow will be spent resting back in the comfort of 14K Camp while we wait on a favorable weather forecast to begin our final move up to
Denali's high camp.
Best,
RMI Guides
Robby,
Pete,
Geoff and Team
On The Map
Saturday, June 29th, 2013
After a good sleep, we woke up and started packing. The goal for the day was to get as low and as far as possible to set us up for flying off the mountain tomorrow. The crux of the walk out is timing the walk out on the lower
Kahiltna Glacier. We have to walk across this part while the snow bridges over the crevasses are frozen. This means a late night/early morning walk to the air strip. We made it all the way to 11k Camp so we are set up to walk the glacier at the right time...as long as we only sleep for two hours!
Wish us luck and good weather so we can fly tomorrow!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the
RMI Summit Team 6
P.S. Grasshopper wants to thank Annie and Rose for the support and sacrifices!
On The Map
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Guapo;
sorry to hear you didn’t get to 17,000 today, but it makes me comfortable knowing that your team guides care about your welfare and safety,and won’t take unnecessary risks.
Best of luck tomorrow,rest well
Guapa
Posted by: marion and maya on 7/3/2013 at 10:22 pm
Hey Gail good to hear you guys are getting some exercise up there…I was beginning to worry you were getting lazy. Ha…kidding of course! Sounds like yesterday was a long one, but great to hear everyone is doing well and best of luck for a break in the weather. Happy early 4th of July, stay safe, have fun!! -Becky
Posted by: Becky on 7/3/2013 at 2:06 pm
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