Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Dhaulagiri: RMI Guide Team Checks in from Base Camp

April 20, 2014

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News

Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is the Dhaulagiri climbing team on Sunday, the 20th. First of all we want to apologize for the lack of communication, but we're having serious problems with our SAT phone and charger and we are trying to solve that problem. We are also saddened by the news that arrived to base camp here of the tragedy on Everest. We want to send our condolences to the community of the Sherpa involved in this tragedy. Our progress here on the mountain continues. We have been able to reach almost Camp 2. We have been very unlucky with the weather. Until right now we have been the only team on the mountain, but we were able to make a carry to almost Camp 2 and spend a few nights at Camp 1. Right now the weather looks like it is favorable to us and we are hoping to take a few days of rest and make some more progress up high, hopefully getting to Camp 2 or 3 in the next week or so. Getting ready for a future summit push around the beginning of May. So we'll keep you posted on that and we hope everybody is doing well. We'll try to keep you posted as much as we can with the limited communications that we have here. Regards to all from Dhaulagiri Base Camp. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri Base Camp.

Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn Calls in from Everest Base Camp

April 19, 2014

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Billy Nugent, JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Hey this is Dave Hahn calling from Everest Base Camp. Today was another difficult day dealing with the tragedies from yesterday. The team members stayed in Base Camp today, it was cloudy, a little snowy, a little cold. Three of our Sherpa team, Tshering, Lam Babu and Pemba helicoptered up, with others, to the accident site to continue the difficult and dangerous work that some of us were engaged in yesterday of well, body retrieval at this point. There are still three missing, is my understanding, and they were not able to find those three. But they did a great job in going up and working hard and trying to make a difference and we are very proud of them. The team is well, obviously, it is a difficult situation, everything is somewhat in limbo. There is word of a number of teams that are pulling the plug and are not going to climb. But we will see how these next couple of days play out. I told my climbers to be ready for anything. We will keep you informed. Bye now. RMI Guide Dave Hahn

RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Everest Base Camp.

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Happy Easter to all. bc

Posted by: bc on 4/20/2014 at 7:19 am

Good day, I learnt about the tragedy few days ago. Even though I have never been to Nepal, I have always interest in the Everest. Please stay strong. My thoughts and prayers with the sherpas and their families.

Best regards
Kok Wai
Singapore

Posted by: Kok Wai on 4/20/2014 at 6:25 am

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Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Wrap-up a Great Week of Training

April 18, 2014

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais, Ben Liken, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

RMI Guides Brent Okita, Zeb Blais and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter Team finished up a great week of training. The team has started their descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon. Congratulations Team!

Mt. Everest: Update 4-18-14

April 17, 2014

Posted by: Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

April 17th - 11:20 pm Pacific Time RMI Guide and Everest Base Camp Manager Mark Tucker reports that RMI climbers, Sherpa and guides are safe at Everest Base Camp. Around 7 am local time on April 18th an avalanche occured below the West Shoulder continuing down into the Khumbu Ice Fall. Our thoughts and prayers are with the teams on Mt. Everest.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So happy you guys are all safe! Miss ya kare, I am so glad you are safe!!! Praying for the families of the Fallen Sherpa and for your continued safety.

Posted by: Farah Hedwig on 4/20/2014 at 9:05 am

Hi, Nicole! So relieved to hear you and your team are safe. Our prayers are with you all. Your dad is with me. He says “Be careful, we want you home safe. We love you and am proud of you!” xoxoxoxoxoxox
Love,
Dad and Patti Cakes

Posted by: Patti Tebo on 4/18/2014 at 12:48 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Train in Some Tough Weather

April 17, 2014

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais, Ben Liken, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

A little wind and snow couldn't keep this intrepid group of aspiring alpinists from training on our last full day of the seminar. What most impressed the guides was the 100% participation of the group given the 50 mph winds and heavy snowfall. We look forward to a last evening together going over a couple more topics and sharing a war story or two. RMI Guide Brent Okita

Mt. Everest: Dress Rehearsal through the Khumbu Icefall

April 17, 2014

Posted by: JJ Justman, Dave Hahn, Billy Nugent, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Today was an exciting day! The entire team did a "live" rehearsal. What does that mean? Well...the team awoke at 3AM and slid on stiff boots and warm clothing, had a quick but nutritious breakfast and then began climbing the icefall with our headlamps lighting the way. Climbing in the Khumbu Icefall is impossible to describe. It is impossible to relay what it's like through photos and videos. However, the best I can say is it is simply spectacular! Giant blocks of ice tower above as you bob and weave, slice and dice your way through the giant maze. The entire team did absolutely great! This "dry run" of going through half of the icefall inspires confidence so the next time we get up at 3AM we will all be ready and rearing to go through the entire icefall and occupy Camp One at 20,000 feet. For now however, we are all happy and content after another great lunch with culinary masterpieces allowing us to fully recover. Next, a little tent time to rest these weary bones. RMI Guide JJ Justman

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Nicole and team. We are so thankful that you and the team are safe and praying for the missing climbers.Your family are all sending you strngth and love. We love you so much Nicole, please take care of yourself. Spoke to dad, brothers, cousins, and we are praying for your safety. Aunt Mimi is with me now. Your loving Aunt Ginny

Posted by: ginny marasco on 4/18/2014 at 11:59 am

Nicole Lobiondo: Wonderful to hear you are all safe and staying confident. You are in great hands and praying for you all. You got this! Love, Nicole

Posted by: Nicole Howard on 4/18/2014 at 6:50 am

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Mt. Rainier: The Winter Seminar Tries for the Summit

April 16, 2014

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais, Ben Liken, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

We left Camp Muir this morning at 4: There was a cap over the summit from the outset of our climb but we were thankful the winds from yesterday evening had abated and hoped the cap would follow suit.45 a.m. in reasonable winds. The team took to heart the lessons learned at yesterday’s climbing school and climbed strong on the upper mountain in deteriorating conditions. I began the route finding effort up the Ingraham Direct but gave way to RMI Guide Zeb Blais as he led the team up to a break at 12,800’. As we switchbacked our way up the mountain, we encountered increasing wind speeds and steadily decreasing visibility. We made the smart and safe choice to call 13,400’ our high point for the day. On our descent to Camp Muir, clouds would billow up from below causing white out conditions followed by periods of visibility. This process repeated continually until we returned to Camp Muir. We’re back at Camp Muir safe and sound. We are looking forward to a low-key afternoon at camp with a siesta and some easy training on the schedule. Signing off for now, RMI Guide Brent Okita

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Zeb led the way for Mariana and I out of Camp Muir on June 20, 2010. He got us up to Ingraham Glacier before returning with climbers. Mariana and I continued to the summit, led by Solveig Waterfall. I will always be grateful to Zeb for his kind and thoughtful pace out of Muir . . . I’ve not seen him since, but want to send a big hello his way and the heads up that I will be forever grateful to him for his efforts that Father’s Day. Thanks, Zeb!!!

Posted by: Josephine Johnson on 4/17/2014 at 9:58 pm

Thanks for keeping my guys safe and sound! Think warm thoughts! Hugs to Mike and Steve

Posted by: cathy on 4/16/2014 at 7:59 pm

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Mt. Everest: The Team Prepares for the Next Phase of the Expedition

April 16, 2014

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Dave Hahn, JJ Justman, Mark Tucker

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Hello out there. Billy here checking in for the rest of the gang after another day deep in the Khumbu. Not much to report on another rest day here, other than the fact that the NCell tower began sporadically working today after nearly a ten-day outage. Our team was starting to go crazy... I mean it was like camping back in the 90's where you were in a deep black hole. Anyway, clear skies this morning meant more helicopters buzzing basecamp as a film production crew has been ferrying tons of equipment up valley. The rumor is that they'll need more than fifty flights to get all of their gear in, we're all looking forward to it! Regardless, we're rested and ready for the next phase of our climb which involves an early wakeup dress rehearsal for tomorrow. It's the last step before we begin our first true rotation up the mountain. All for now, will check in again tomorrow after another romp through the icefall... RMI Guide Billy Nugent

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Casey Grom - just checking in on you. Just read about the avalanche and of course I immediately thought of you. Be safe.
- Janel
Posted by: Janel Miller on 4/18/2014 at 5:43 am

Posted by: Janel Miller on 4/18/2014 at 7:04 am

Nicole & Team sending blessings and prayers up to the top of the world. Thinking of you all, all those who left families and friends behind. Praying you are all safe, warm, healthy, and in good strong spirits.

Posted by: Tatiana on 4/18/2014 at 5:08 am

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Mt. Everest: Mark Tucker and the Climbing Team Summit Kalapathar

April 15, 2014

Posted by: Mark Tucker, Dave Hahn, JJ Justman, Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Summit... of Kalapathar! The team took on Kalapathar, and had a great payday of views galore. Nice weather for most of the day. The Sherpa team also benefited from weather as they are nearly done with all the makings of Camp 2. One comment from a Sherpa that it was very hot in the Khumbu Icefall. Seems ironic. The climbing team is gearing up for a possible early morning test run in the Icefall. We'll keep you posted. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Is everything ok? Our news said there was an avalanche on Everest. Please let us know if it didn’t
affect you.

Posted by: Jean Kumler on 4/17/2014 at 9:11 pm

Hi Kara
I’m back home. Had a really nice time in LA. Was 85 there—-came home to 35 in Cleve. Your trip is looking amazing and beautiful and cold and challenging.
So glad it’s going well. Keep up the good work everyone
What an awesome experience.

Posted by: Jean Kumler on 4/17/2014 at 6:33 am

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Mt. Rainier: RMI Guide Brent Okita Checks In as the Seminar Ascends to Camp Muir

April 15, 2014

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais, Ben Liken, Robby Young

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

We had a great day for making our way to Camp Muir yesterday. Blue skies and just enough wind to keep us from over heating. Everyone did well! Camp Muir will be home through Friday. The next few days we'll be training around Camp Muir. It's going to be a fantastic week! RMI Guide Brent Okita

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Dhaulagiri: RMI Guide Team Checks in from Base Camp

Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn Calls in from Everest Base Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Wrap-up a Great Week of Training

Mt. Everest: Update 4-18-14

Mt. Rainier: Winter Seminar Train in Some Tough Weather

Mt. Everest: Dress Rehearsal through the Khumbu Icefall

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: The Winter Seminar Tries for the Summit

Mt. Everest: The Team Prepares for the Next Phase of the Expedition

Mt. Everest: Mark Tucker and the Climbing Team Summit Kalapathar

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: RMI Guide Brent Okita Checks In as the Seminar Ascends to Camp Muir

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