Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Take a Snow Day

June 30, 2018

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello, Nikki Champion

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Friday, June 29, 2018 9:53 PM PST We weren’t feeling it today. Although we’d prepared to carry up onto the West Buttress, the morning weather didn’t look all that inviting. We watched and waited and ate breakfast, but then declared a rest day. The forecasts had predicted a snowstorm coming onto the mountain and we figured they were getting it right this time. Luckily though, it came in slowly enough for Mike Haugen and his team to climb down from 17 camp. We were certainly happy to see them pass through 14 in the latter part of the afternoon. The really heavy snow began to fall just as they were leaving to go a little lower. It seemed to be coming down at about three inches an hour while we were eating dinner in our well fortified dining tent. The good news is that it is coming down without any wind... so far. By bedtime we could hear avalanches beginning to pour down regularly on the steep -and thankfully distant- slopes surrounding our flat basin. We’ll each be taking turns digging out the camp tonight. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

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That is a lot of snowfall. Back in the lower 48, a one inch per hour qualifies as a snow emergency. Stay safe all of you and hopefully by the time you read this, you will on your way again.

Posted by: Roger Coffey on 7/1/2018 at 8:02 am

So proud of all of you and happy things are going well! Wish I was there. It won’t be long now before you’re all standing on the Summit!
Love,
Sue

Posted by: Sue Mamer on 6/30/2018 at 10:07 pm

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Alpamayo: Elias & Team Climb to Camp 1

June 29, 2018

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 16,240'

Friday, June 29, 2018 - 5:00 PM PT Good evening! Alpamayo crew reporting from Camp 1, a.k.a. moraine camp. We just had a nice dinner with the most beautiful alpenglow so far on this trip. Gaining elevation today to our camp was an easy task, and everyone did a great job managing the rocky and slabby terrain carved by the glacier that drops from the Alpamayo-Quitaraju Col. We ditched 20 minutes from our carry day... and it's only a 2h journey! That's a big chunk and these climbers are keeping these guides psyched. We're ready to move to high camp tomorrow, should everyone have a good night tonight... So wish us sweet dreams, and stay tuned! RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.

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Kim, What a beautiful mountain! Only a rare few, like you!!, get to experience that. Keep up the good climbing and be safe. xx Trish

Posted by: Trish on 6/30/2018 at 7:42 am

So excited to hear about your amazing adventure! have a great day tomorrow! mom and Larry

Posted by: Jane Lubow on 6/30/2018 at 4:39 am

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on the Summit!

June 29, 2018

Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb Teams June 26 - 29 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today led by RMI Guides Peter Whittaker and Chase Nelson. The groups reached the summit around 7 am and spent some time on top enjoying the views. Peter reported clear skies with winds 25 mph and cold temperatures. The teams will return to Camp Muir for a quick break before continuing to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's Summit Climbers!

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Awesomeness!!! Congrats Team!!
So so proud of you Brenda Baxter. Keep on summitting in everything you do!!!! ❤️ Dad & Mom

Posted by: Karen Baxter on 6/30/2018 at 9:11 am

Congratulations Benny, Gareth, Geoff, and Andrew! I’m not sure if this is your team but it’s the closest thing I could find on the blog! Incredibly amazed with you all!

Posted by: Lisa Eisler on 6/29/2018 at 10:04 am

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Return to High Camp After Summit

June 29, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

Friday, June 29, 2018 - 1:09 AM PT RMI Super Crew got to the summit of Denali around 6 pm today. The weather was amazing all day and we all walked to the top in just base layers, which you would imagine is rare when climbing big mountains in Alaska. Mountaineers don't cry... everybody knows that. However, all of our eyes were awfully sweaty when we reached the top and saw the spectacular scenery below! We had a very safe climb back to high camp and a are currently working on getting into our sleeping bags for some well earned sleep. RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Super Crew

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Congratulations ! ! ! The song “I can only imagine” comes to mind…... Another dream has come true, achieving this is such an accomplishment.. Cudo’s to a strong team, that overcame and conquered ! Love to you all ....Have a safe trip descending.. Wish I could be there to greet you and to celebrate with you…..

Grams

Posted by: Barbara Jones on 6/30/2018 at 5:40 am

Congratulations Josh, Rusty, Craig and the entire crew! Can’t wait to hear all about your amazing adventure!

Josh, love you and can’t wait to see you!

Posted by: Sarah Levy on 6/29/2018 at 3:38 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Retrieve Carry and Train at 14,000’ Camp

June 29, 2018

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello, Nikki Champion

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Thursday, June 28, 2018 - 10:32 PM PT Our first night at 14,000' Camp was quiet and calm. The tent fabric didn’t stir even once with breeze. We were up at around 8AM even though things are still a little shadowy and cold here then. After breakfast, Avery Parrinello led the day’s carry, or more accurately the back carry, since we were going back down to 13,500 ft to bring home the cache we walked past yesterday. It only took about 20 minutes to walk down, but perhaps 90 minutes to come back up with heavy packs. As usual, it clouded up and began snowing on us before we’d gone too far, but that wasn’t much of a problem. The snow continued through the afternoon, but by then we were lounging in our tents. Just before dinner we did a little training session to discuss techniques we’ll employ to climb the “fixed ropes” that lead to the crest of the West Buttress. Throughout the day we touched base with the only other RMI group on the hill, Mike Haugen’s team who were going for the top. It all made our preparations a bit more meaningful to know we’ll be up there knocking on the door soon ourselves. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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J and M-

Thinking of you guys often from sunny/hot Wisconsin. While we soak up the lake views we imagine the mountain scapes before you. (We also think about getting some fresh turns in that powder.)

Enjoy the challenge and the sounds of nature. Wish you the best.

The Merkleins

Posted by: Merklein family on 6/30/2018 at 5:59 am

Hey Tom! Awesome job so far! I’m torked up to hear about the fixed lines when you get to the next camp. I wish I was on your team brother!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/29/2018 at 5:34 pm

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Call from The Summit!

June 28, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,310'

Thursday, June 28, 2018 - 7:11 PM PT Hi - this is Mike Haugen with RMI Super Crew. We just summited Denali! We are standing at over 20,000 feet with zero wind, 0 miles per hour, 5 degreess Fahrenheit. Every single one of us is up here in our base layer. Views are incredible. Wish you were here! We love all of you and thanks for your support. We are going to have a fun trip down and we will be back in camp at 17,000'. Congratulations to Mike Haugen & the RMI Team!

RMI Guide Mike Haugen calls from the summit of Denali.

On The Map

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My heart continues to swell with pride for all that my son SCOTT has accomplished this past 12 months

Posted by: Roger Coffey on 6/29/2018 at 7:54 am

Congrats you all, that is super exciting. Enjoy and soak up all the goodness of your time together as a kick ass team on your decent.

Posted by: Sabrina on 6/29/2018 at 7:22 am

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Alpamayo: Elias & Team Enjoy Rest Day at Base Camp

June 28, 2018

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar

Elevation: 14,270'

Good evening from Alpamayo Base Camp. We had a good rest day, where we ate, slept and socialized, all while getting excited for tomorrow's move to Camp 1. We're also excited to see many teams come down, and know it's not going to be too crowded up high... Fingers crossed! Stay tuned for updates on our progress up high. RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.

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Hi Kimmer!! Your trip sounds fabulous so far and your guide Elias needs to become a novelist with his colorful blog descriptions!! We will be following your every move as you continue on your journey
Xoxoxo Sophia, Lora, Michael & Lucky

Posted by: Lucky Superstar on 6/29/2018 at 1:54 am

Hi Erik. We’ve been following your team’s progress and it looks good. Looks like you are all eating well. We hope you all make great progress to Camp 1 tomorrow.

Posted by: Tim and Carol Smith on 6/28/2018 at 10:09 pm

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Cotopaxi Express: Walter & Team Battle the White Wind on Cotopaxi

June 28, 2018

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 16,000'

Last night we enjoyed a delicious fresh, local trout dinner—served at the 16,000’ Cotopaxi Climbers’ Hut!...and then we went to bed early, in preparation for an alpine start wake-up for our summit bid on Cotopaxi. I woke before midnight to check the weather. It wasn’t perfect—we were in thick clouds, but there wasn’t any wind. We got the ball rolling at midnight, coffee-ed up and got ready to climb. As we prepared the weather kept fluctuating: a little snow here, a little wind there, clouds that we could see the moon through… At just after one a.m. we headed out of the Jose Ribas Refugio on Cotopaxi. Winds increased during our first hour of climbing, which brought us to the glacier where we donned crampons and roped up. The winds continued above, coupled with Viento Blanco (White Wind, ~30 mph wind inside a 100% humidity cloud) that iced up everything—our clothes, our packs, our ice axes, and even our eyes—as we climbed. We persevered through the Viento Blanco as it increased in strength until we conceded to it due to safety; at less than 800 feet from the summit we turned around and headed back to the Climbers’ Hut. Even the descent was challenging; Viento Blanco was relentless, trying to blow us off of our feet, limit our visibility to near zero, and continue to dominate everything it could think its icy teeth into. Arriving safely back at the Climbers’ Hut we were a spectacle, pasted in white ice from head to toe. It’s bittersweet to return from fierce weather unscathed but without a summit. We all know which one is more important. I am confident that had we had decent weather for our summit day 100% of our climbers would have made the top. Everyone performed well on our preparatory climbs, and everyone was acclimatizing to the extreme altitude well. But such is mountain climbing. Sometimes you eat the bear, and sometimes the bear eats you. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams with ALA Team Members Reach the Summit

June 28, 2018

Posted by: Win Whittaker, Andy Bond

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Win Whittaker and Andy Bond led their ALA Climbing Teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Win reported cold and windy conditions which means the teams won't stay on the summit for long. They will be returning to Camp Muir for a quick stop before continuing their descent to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's ALA Climbers!

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Still so happy for you, Frosty! I hope the afterglow of a safe and successful summit is still lingering for you.

Posted by: Sarah Brown on 6/29/2018 at 5:01 pm

Amy and team YOU DID IT!!!!
Cheers, from Duluth, MN
(We toasted you at Bent Paddle tonight at the REI Women and the Outdoors event in Duluth)

Posted by: Deanna on 6/28/2018 at 6:04 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Pounce on the Opportunity to Move to 14,000’

June 28, 2018

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello, Nikki Champion

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Wednesday, June 27, 2018 - 10:11 PM PT Hey from 14K. We got an excellent day for moving up. When the 6 AM alarm went off down at 11,000', we peered out to see clear skies and no signs of wind. We pounced on the opportunity, hitting the trail at 9 AM. Hannah Smith led the charge today, bringing the team expeditiously up Motorcycle Hill, The Squirrel Hills and then the Polo Field. Just like when we carried, it began to cloud up as we approached Windy Corner and to snow as we went around. We moved right on past our cache site, which appears to be resisting the ravages of the ravens (we buried it deep in the snow). Hannah got us into camp at 14,000' in a very respectable 5 hours and 45 minutes. The tents went up fast and easy and about the time we’d completed setup, the snow quit. As we ate dinner, the clouds melted away and when we emerged from our deluxe dining shelter, we were treated to new and spectacular views in every direction. Foraker and Hunter, the other two giants of the Alaska Range were visible -for the first time- in all their glory. But it was the view of Denali, rising straight up in front of us for a vertical mile and more that took our breath away. Our world is now bound on the left by the West Buttress and on the right by the West Rib... which covers a lot of fascinating and historic... and slightly intimidating terrain. Just before bedtime, we listened to the weather outlook, broadcast via radio from Basecamp and more importantly to the trivia question for the night. Did you know that there are 21 bears for every human in Alaska? Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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‘Enjoying the updates, wishing you continued safe travel and good weather! ‘Looking forward to hearing about your adventures in person when you return to WI!

Posted by: Terri Ellis on 6/29/2018 at 4:24 am

Your Swiss genes are showing in this hike and Fritz would be so proud! Stay safe and enjoy!

Posted by: Kathy Roelli on 6/28/2018 at 10:02 pm

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Take a Snow Day

Alpamayo: Elias & Team Climb to Camp 1

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams on the Summit!

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Return to High Camp After Summit

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Retrieve Carry and Train at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Call from The Summit!

On The Map

Alpamayo: Elias & Team Enjoy Rest Day at Base Camp

Cotopaxi Express: Walter & Team Battle the White Wind on Cotopaxi

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams with ALA Team Members Reach the Summit

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Pounce on the Opportunity to Move to 14,000’

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