Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Monday, May 27, 2019 - 6:30 PM PT
Today the team awoke to slightly calmer weather, finally allowing everyone to venture out of their tents. Camp received a good bit of new snow, and the wind organized the snow into orderly piles, just not necessarily in the most convenient locations. After everyone soaked up some morning sun, the team returned to their tents to rest for our upcoming move. If the weather cooperates, we will be pushing to
17,000' Camp tomorrow hoping for good summit conditions the following day.
RMI Guide Steve Gately
On The Map
Monday, May 27, 2019 - 5:41 PM PT
Winds remained strong overnight and our camp weathered the storm admirably. The combo of strong mountaineering tents, solid anchors, and stout snow walls creates a pretty burly fortress against the elements.
This morning we had some blue sky above us for a couple hours before the clouds eased back in. Winds up high on the
West Buttress continue to be strong. We're hopeful that the weather forecast validates and winds will diminish by tomorrow. We might have a short window to summit in the next few days. We'll see what plays out, but we'd like to climb to High Camp tomorrow and hopefully have a chance to summit on Wednesday. We're at the mercy of the weather though, so our schedule remains flexible to her whim.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Good morning from The Ruth Glacier.
Thirty hours of straight precipitation that started pretty much as we got to camp after summitting Mt. Dickey, kept us in our tents all day yesterday. The rain only turned into snow as the temperatures dropped with the night. We're currently waking up to a couple inches of fresh, heavy wet snow. But we are very happy! The name of the game was to stay dry and to eat good food; steak with quinoa and stir fried vegetables was an insuperable rest day dinner.
Stand by to see what the weather brings today.
Corell, Lucy and Elias
Sunday, May 26, 2019 - 9:37 PM PT
Snow fell from the sky all day today. A wet, heavy snow. Sounded like rain pitter pattering on the tent. It made for a great background noise for afternoon siesta. But the snow didn't stop us from more learning. Today's topics were
anchors and crevasse rescue. We did practice rounds on flat ground by our tents of making a 3:1 pulley system to haul out a fallen climber. Next time we practice we will be able to practice in a crevasse. Very exciting. We will see what tomorrows weather will bring and roll with what ever mother nature throws our way. As for now, we will fall asleep to the sound of snow falling onto the tent, which sounds like the snap crackle pop of rice krispies.
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Sunday, May 26, 2019 - 11:41 PM PT
Well, the storm is here. It snowed all day today. Hard to say exactly how much. It’s ankle deep in some spots, and waist deep in others. We’ve been moving consistently and working hard every day up until now, so this forced rest day wasn’t the worst thing in the world. We spent our time shoveling snow, eating bacon, shoveling snow, reading, shoveling snow, and napping. We will probably wake up in the middle of the night to shovel some more snow. That’s
Alaska for ya. It looks like we probably won’t be going anywhere for a few days, but that’s no problem for us. When we finally do get to move we’ll be well rested, and well versed in the art of maintaining camp in a storm. Until tomorrow, the team sends their best.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
On The Map
Today's Mt. Rainier
Four Day Climb teams turned around at 12,600' today due to avalanche danger. RMI Guides
Tyler Jones and
Jess Matthews and their teams enjoyed a beautiful morning on the mountain but conditions just didn't allow for them to ascend higher. The teams will be returning to Paradise later this morning and we look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
We're at
14 Camp weathering out a storm that is producing snow and wind. We established robust snow walls around our camp so we're doing just fine. We enjoyed a multi-hour brunch and coffee session this morning in the comfort of our cook tent, protected from the elements.
Now, everyone is nestled in their tents relaxing, reading, snacking or snoozing to pass the time. The sound of snow hitting the tent and the flapping of nylon tent flies in the wind are reminders of harsh conditions outside while we rest comfortably in our sleeping bags.
The storm is forecast to continue through tomorrow, easing on Tuesday.
Until tomorrow...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
The team woke up to another expected stormy morning. We decided to make pancakes for breakfast, a lengthy process at
14,000' when you're serving for 12. We manage to take until almost midday to scarf down the feast. The weather however isn't as severe as the forecast was calling for but still not nearly suitable enough for travel higher. So we'll spend another afternoon hunkered down in the tents. The forecast is calling for another day of stormy weather before improvement is expected into Tuesday. Waiting out bad weather such as this is a common occurrence on this mountain and I may argue that it's simply an "entry fee" for safe passage to the summit. The team is doing great however with all the down time and all are well equipped with various forms of entertainment to pass the hours. My favorite being snacking. I mean, the more I eat the less my pack weighs, right? If only such simple logic actually translated to reality as efficiently as it does in my head! As I finish ty
ping this I can hear the wind fiercely barreling over the exposed granite of the upper mountain like a freight train rumbles the earth as is passes through a small western town where the residents are so use to the thunderous event that it seemingly goes unnoticed. Such is life at our little village here perched at 14,000ft. Just a quaint little town with a train problem.
RMI Guide Steve Gately
On The Map
Just a quick note that the Bolivia team is back in La Paz on a rest day. We had an amazing climb on
Huayna Potosi yesterday, and look forward to leaving for Sajama tomorrow morning.
Today we are relaxing, buying souvenirs and reorganizing from the last week of constant travel.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
Sunday, May 26, 2019 - 8:16 AM PT
Hello from the
Ruth Glacier Base Camp.
What a great day and climb we had yesterday. Our climb of Mount Dickey went well and while better accomplished over 2 days, we had to single push it in order to nail the weather. Saved by the bell, we pulled back into camp as the rain started, and it's been coming down ever since. Double reason for a well deserved rest day today. We'll enjoy a good steak (and I'm not kidding) meal and revisit our climb that provided arguably the best views of the Alaska Range.
Regards, Lucy, Corell and
ElÃas
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Cheering for all of you guys and crossing fingers for a great summit weather over the next few days!
Posted by: Anna on 5/28/2019 at 3:49 am
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