Entries from Expedition Dispatches
We woke to crystal clear skies today at Machame Camp and so the team got their first views of Kibo, Kilimanjaro’s central peak. We could see the hanging glaciers and ice fields sparkling in the morning light. Way down below us, there were clouds, but they were minding their own business and didn’t seem capable of rising up to swallow us. After a fine breakfast, we hit the trail at 8 AM with Philibet leading the charge. It was a slow charge as the trail steepened and got a whole lot more rocky just out of camp. But we made good progress anyway, gaining altitude through a forest of giant heather. Directly behind us and out on the western horizon was the giant pyramid of Mt Meru, Tanzania’s third highest peak rising out of a sea of low cloud. We gained a ridge crest and traveled along it toward Kibo for a ways before banging a left turn and traversing a series of old lava ledges. Finally, at about 12,700 ft we turned a corner and walked onto the broad Shira Plateau. We finished up by dropping downhill briefly before coming into our new camp at 12,500 ft. We’d seen our first Senecios and Lobelias, some of the distinctive endemic plants of
Kilimanjaro. We’d gotten the walking finished in about five hours which gave us plenty of time for a relaxing afternoon in Shira Camp. The team reviewed their Swahili vocabulary at 4:30 tea time and watched a fine sunset a few hours later out over the old volcanic towers of Shira. We filed into the big dining tent by headlight at 7:00 and were once again greatly impressed with the meal that Tosha had produced in his simple kitchen tent. It was another fabulous evening for stars and planets... and sleep as well.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
The Four Day Summit Climb August 7 - 10 led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Bryan Mazaika reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Casey reported a breeze at the crater and overall good conditions. The teams began their descent from the crater rim around 7:20 AM.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
This is
Mike King checking in on the
Sahale climb. We are at the campsite after a hot day hiking through the dense lower slopes of Boston Basin. We will check in after our climbing school tomorrow! The group is enjoying the views and looking forward to some dinner and rest.
RMI Guide Jess Matthews and team reached the
Mt. Baker summit and are safely back at camp. The team ascended and descended the Easton Glacier Route.
When Luis posed the question last night if we could sleep in until 8:00, I just had to say yes. After all, we'd been going strong for days on end and were due some slack. The whole table erupted in celebration on hearing my response. So, at the civilized hour of 9:00 we left our wonderful hotel en route for some souvenir shopping, to check out a Masaai Village and then on to our last full day safari.
Tarangire National Park has not disappointed. The sheer numbers of animals seen right off the bat were amazing. Plus we got to see animals we haven't yet seen: giraffes, elands, and a few other critters. We also got to see numerous elephants. After all, this park boasts the highest density of elephants around.
Our day was made complete when we got up close and personal with a big old giraffe, maybe 20 yards away. How cool!
Now we're at our last 'hotel', Balloon Camp. Yes, from the outside these structures look camp like, but given the polished wood floors, marble topped bathroom, queen sized bed, it's not 'camp'!
Our group was seated outside for dinner with a full on barbecue buffet that did not disappoint. What took place before was pretty cool too. As we were enjoying a drink in front of a huge bonfire, all of the sudden a group of Masaai came dancing into our midst. They put on a well done show, even drawing us Westerners out of our comfort zones to join in the dancing.
Interestingly, the hotel has a policy that after dark everyone needs an escort to and from the main lodge and their rooms/ cabins. The staff was also very attentive to the bush just outside our outdoor seating, continually pointing their lights into the Bush. We did spy an impala looking in on the festivities.
Some of us were secretly hoping for a lion to check out at close range, but no such luck. Still, seeing the fresh elephant dung just outside my cabin was a great reality check. We're in their world at this place.
I must admit I'm hoping to see/ hear a big old elephant go walking by my cabin tonight.
As the trip draws to a close we're all looking forward to seeing loved ones again. But I, for one, will miss Africa.
Getting up early tomorrow we're going to see some lions up close, and anything else that wants to show its beautiful face in the morning.
All for now,
RMI Guide Brent Okita
With all due modesty, we crushed day one. We were out of our hotel and on the bus and on the road just after eight. Out on the highway, our driver Said had the windshield wipers on as the clouds were low and gray and leaking a little rain. But ninety minutes later, as we passed in to
Kilimanjaro National Park at the 6,000 ft Machame Gate, it wasn’t raining. As is normal, it took a bit of time to get the group registered for the climb and to get the staffing and loads sorted out, but then, at 10:40 we started walking. Freddy, of our local guide staff, set a “pole pole” pace... nice and slow and steady and we fell into a good rhythm behind him. James, our lead guide, and Frank, Phillibet, and Naiman brought up the rear. The trail, which can be muddy and slippery, was actually in pretty good shape today. The clouds stayed with us for the first half of the day and we got a hint of wet mist and sprinkles before things cleared out a bit in the afternoon. We could even see our shadows from time to time as the sun came and went. The team walked well and seemed to have little difficulty with the steady gain in altitude. We went from hours deep within the rain forest, to a final half hour in a transition to the “Heather and Mooreland” zone and finally walked into Machame Camp at 10,000 ft in a respectable five and a half hours after our start. Our staff had not only beat us to camp, they’d built the camp. Everything was perfectly set up and welcoming for our team to move in. We did afternoon tea with popcorn and then followed that up with one of Chef Tosha’s magnificent dinners. We spent a few minutes looking up at the night sky before turning in... Venus, Jupiter, Saturn and Mars were putting on a show and the milky way was trying hard to outshine them.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons team just called from the summit! All is well with them and they are beginning their descent. The lead guide,
Christina Dale, said the team has enjoyed their week on Mt. Rainier with many skills learned and to top it off, a summit on the highest peak in Washington! They will be descending off the mountain tomorrow and working their way back to Rainier Basecamp to cap off their week with a celebration here in Ashford.
I'll have difficulty describing the sheer numbers of animals that we saw today, so bear with me. If there are ten thousand big animals in the
Ngorongoro Crater, we probably saw half of them.
Our safari started quietly enough enjoying the views of the quintessentially African Acacia trees and some water bucks browsing as we descended into the caldera. Once there, the occasional zebra and wildebeest showed up, but then we really got into the animals. Herd sizes got bigger and gazelles, impalas, hyenas, jackals, wart hogs got into the picture.
Hippos were seen from just feet away as they baked in the sun half submerged in ponds. But then the mission was to find the royalty of the crater, the lions and elephants. We didn't have to wait long. Although this pride of lions were mostly sleeping and not out chasing dinner, we were en rapt by their presence.
Elephants were next, though they were at a distance. However, their mammoth size made them stand out like the giants they are on the savanna. Rhinos too were seen from a distance, but the water buffalo showed itself up close and personal.
The day was capped off by seeing five elephants just 70 yards away at the top of the crater as we were leaving the park. Not to mention the baboons that were scattered all over the road on the way out, just hanging out, getting each other. One even jumped on our Landcruiser, causing a stir as we quickly rolled up windows.
Then it was back to the hotel where Luis arranged a nice wine tasting before dinner. Following another great meal the hotel staff came out with a cake to celebrate Gennadiy's birthday, and outdid themselves with a wonderful Tanzanian birthday song and dance.
The evening ended with a huge bonfire and libations.
Another safari to come, I'll be back after that.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
The Summit Climb teams, led by
RMI Guides Robby Young and JT Schmitt, reached the top of
Mt. Rainier and are on their descent. As the teams began their ascent from Camp Muir, there was warm weather for climbing but as they neared the summit the temperatures became cooler with 30 mph winds on the summit.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb Teams!
Well it took until mid-morning, but we finally had our whole team, with gear, in one place. Ten climbers and one RMI guide meeting at the hotel in Usa River on the outskirts of Arusha, Tanzania. Folks are jet-lagged, but today was actually an easy day of discussing the plan of attack, conducting gear checks and getting things packed and ordered for going on the mountain. That didn’t take the whole day, and so there was plenty of time for napping and strolling the gardens of the Arumeru River Lodge.
Kilimanjaro was visible from the viewing tower on the grounds and was looking magnificent with all of the recent snow up high. We got together for dinner and talked climbing (naturally) but also chatted about running and biking and careers and pretty places.
We’ll get on the road in the morning for Kilimanjaro.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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So excited for you all and this amazing adventure. Continued prayers for a safe journey. Love and blessings.
Posted by: Holly Gilliam on 8/11/2018 at 12:59 pm
Wishing you the best, Lory Beth.
Posted by: Leonard Brendel on 8/11/2018 at 8:37 am
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