Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Fly to Kahiltna Basecamp

June 1, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

The clouds parted long enough for our team to fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier today. We have been packed and ready for this day and now we are ready to climb! Once we are settled in at Kahiltna Base, we'll check in again. RMI Guides Eric Frank and Geoff Schellens

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hope you guys made it to the landing alright… looking forward to hearing the next update! Keep it real Lt!

Posted by: Luke Gowdy on 6/2/2014 at 8:58 pm

Cheers to a safe landing on the glacier! So begins your great adventure. Happy climbing, guys!

Posted by: Kelly Gunderson on 6/2/2014 at 5:10 am

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Mt. Rainier: June 1st Summit Climb Update

June 1, 2014

Posted by: Kel Rossiter, Mark Falender

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by Kel Rossiter and the Five Day Summit Climb led by Mark Falender reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Kel reported calm and sunny conditions, a beautiful day on top. They are descending back to Camp Muir and we look forward to welcoming them back in Ashford later this afternoon.

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Hoping for a Move to 17K Tomorrow

June 1, 2014

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 31, 2014 - 11:23 pm PT The weather slowly cleared over the course of today. We woke to heavy snowfall, but calm winds, and the snow slowly eased through the day, clearing enough by the time we headed to the tents this evening to show blue sky over the West Buttress. The anticipation and excitement in the cook tent this evening was obvious, as we do plan to try to make the next jump tomorrow, climbing to 17k camp tomorrow. If all goes well, the next few days will be big, and will go by in a whirlwind. We'll keep you all updated on our progress, and wish us luck! RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

On The Map

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Marko..it’s only 3000 feet..get errr done brahh!

Posted by: Remi on 6/2/2014 at 10:24 am

Good Luck Marko! What an exciting adventure for all of you!

VIc

Posted by: Vickie on 6/2/2014 at 10:16 am

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Ascend the Fixed Lines

June 1, 2014

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 31, 2014 - 11:21 pm PT The weather cooperated, sort of, for our big day climbing the infamous fixed lines to 16,200'. These are ropes fixed in place on a steep part of our route that offer security to our team as we climb it. As seen from camp this headwall is particularly impressive, and intimidating. The winds had calmed down completely by the time we got up, and the day was looking good. However by the time we actually started walking clouds had rolled in obscuring our views and the route. But the sun could be seen through this layer giving us confidence that we'd climb out of it. And we did. The headwall itself was challenging, but our training yesterday helped immeasurably. We all made it to 16,200' where we cached the supplies we carried up and took a well-deserved break. Our descent was slow on the icy terrain, but we managed it fairly well. By the time we got back to camp, the team was deservedly happy to have climbed this much anticipated part of the route. And now it's bed time. We're all looking forward to sleeping in and being lazy tomorrow. All for now from 14,200', RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick

On The Map

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Hello Team! Soooo jealous! Brent, Leah, Nick and what I read so far about the rest of the team all I can say is I’m looking forward to your summit pic’s:). Believe me anyone with any doubts dial them back YOU can do this! Just listen to Brent,Leah and Nick stay focused on the goal and sucess is soon within your reach!

All the BEST!!!!

Last year’s team memeber,

Gerald!

Posted by: Gerald Flynn on 6/2/2014 at 8:56 am

Dear Daniel and Team,

Sounds like you are making great progress and so is the weather forecast:)! With your positive team spirit and awesome strength you will be ready to summit very soon. Sooo proud of you all!

Love you lots!

Mom & Rob

Posted by: Lena Akerman on 6/2/2014 at 8:52 am

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Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Waiting for a Break in the Weather

June 1, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

May 31, 2014 - 11:02 pm PT Not a plane was buzzing this morning when we awoke to dark skies and a slight breeze here in Talkeetna. Today was our fly day, but we are waiting out a hefty storm that has hundreds of climbers waiting on both sides of the Alaska Range. We met at the K2 hangar to wrap up some last-minute packing with high hopes for hopping on a plane; alas, we stayed stuck on the green-side, in Talkeetna along with swarms of anxious climbers. We are all psyched for tomorrow's potential - crouched and ready to jump on a plane at a moments notice. For now, we will continue to exercise our patience, a vital skill that we will need on the mountain. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

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SO excited for the next update! Love you, John!! Don’t be stubborn up there ;)

Posted by: McKenna Harris on 6/2/2014 at 2:25 pm

THE JOURNEY begins!! Keep your spirits UP.. Be strong , Be smart, Be safe…Be a great team!!!!!. And know that you are loved!!! GOOD LUCK !!!!!!!!!!

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/1/2014 at 6:04 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Soggy but Spirited in Talkeetna

May 31, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

The wait continues here in the rainy village of Talkeetna. We have covered a whole gamut of skills and topics. Currently we don't have a glacier under our our feet but we have many new tricks and tips to help us when our plane's skis hit the powder-covered runway at KIA (Kahiltna International Airport), as many consider it. While the last flight in or out occurred this last Monday, our motivation is high and our spirits strong as we endure these fuzzy and rain filled skies. Maybe fishing for halibut would suit this weather well? Our afternoon will take us to the Talkeetna Ranger Station for a documentary video that outlines the process of climbing and the reality of this difficult and rewarding climb to the summit of North America! We continue to send positive thoughts to the teams on the hill, hoping to high-five with then as we land. Any high pressure you can send up here would be appreciated by all... Until tomorrow, RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Bryan Hendrick, and team

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Hi Dave and team-
We will be watching your progress from Watertown. So excited you are finally beginning your adventure.
Good luck!
Julie and Karla

Posted by: Julie and Karla on 6/1/2014 at 2:19 pm

Tyler, Garrett and Paul -

Hi Guys! Well, here we all are again. Of course, I wish I was there with you getting all antsy to get up on the mountain. I see that Ben Alavarez is following along on the blog. Hi Ben!!
Hope you get that high pressure system soon.

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/1/2014 at 12:14 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Remain at Base Camp

May 31, 2014

Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

May 31, 2014, 2:11 pm PT We are still here at Kahiltna Base camp. We received another foot of new snow overnight and it shows no sign of slowing or stopping. We are all staying hopeful that the weather will break sometime in the next few days and we can finally get a big meal and that long awaited hot shower! RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: May 31st Summit!

May 31, 2014

Posted by: Katrina Bloemsma, Casey Grom, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Casey Grom reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at about 7:35am PT. The team reported clear skies and calm climbing conditions. The team will spend some time on the Summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's team!

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Looking for info on Sheldon Spivey a Georgia climber who is there attempting to summit Rainer

Posted by: Diana Spivey on 6/1/2014 at 8:58 am

Reading the sad news from MT Rainier - it does not
appear to be Robert’s team led by Matt Emht that
was lost but a team led by Matt Hegeman taking the Liberty Ridge route.

Prayers to all involved.

Posted by: Mitchell on 6/1/2014 at 7:53 am

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team in One More Weather Day

May 31, 2014

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 30, 2014 - 10:54 pm PT Ground hog day of a sort here, though not really. We spent another day sitting, listening to what sounds like a freight train above us: the wind blowing over the Buttress. Mid day though, the wind direction shifted, and 14 camp went from being a place of relative calm, to getting intermittent gusts of wind to 30 mph or so, enough to move a lot of snow around. At the same time the snowfall intensity increased, so that it finally feels like we are sitting in some real weather in Alaska. A number of skiers around camp took the opportunity to make some nice powder turns, making us all jealous. With all of that, we are still optimistic about our window in the next day or two, and so spirits are high. Once this system blows itself out, it will be off to the races for us, hopefully as soon as tomorrow. We'll let you know how it goes! Best, RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team’s Good Living at 14,200’

May 30, 2014

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 30, 2014 - 11:12 pm PT The view from the vestibule this morning was not what I'd have called heartening. Clouds and snow dominated the picture, adding visual texture to the soft but incessant howl of the winds coming from the Buttress above. We could still see most of the landmarks around camp, but in the shadow of the early morning it didn't look promising for our carry. So, after talking with Leah and Nick, I happily crawled back into my warm sack. We later awoke at the more reasonable hour of 9:00 to get the stoves fired up and start our day. No one complained about not climbing. I think having a real rest day was welcome by all. So what do we do on these days? First of all, we hang out in the Posh an extra hour or two, then we cut a few snow blocks to further reinforce the walls we built around our tents yesterday. It was impressive seeing the team rally and build some really good walls. I think everyone was feeling good and happy to be doing something. Twelve hours in a tent can do that to a person. But a rest day is a rest day and some good tent time is a must. A group was playing an animated game of BS next door to us in the Posh. Others were catching up on things on the radio. Naps are never a bad thing, and in this tent a few games of cribbage were contested. We even got in a bit of rope craft review and knot tying practice. Such is life for the climber hanging out at 14,200' waiting for Mother Nature to offer us a little friendlier weather to continue our climb up the flanks of one of her most beautiful mountain creations. We're all doing well and happily waiting this little set back out. Cheers, RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick

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Proud of you dad, hope you make it all the way to the top. Make it count. Get ready for some seriously hot and humid weather back in Jupiter.
Love you.
Ali

Posted by: Ali on 6/1/2014 at 10:25 am

Hope you are doing well.Love seeing the blogs and your progress. I Love& miss you.Girls are doing good.It’s been a good trip here so far. Who knew that the girls like to fish.Scottie has taken them fishing a lot.You calling me on my birthday made my day.I had so much more to say.Love you.Good night.

Posted by: Robin Wagner on 6/1/2014 at 2:28 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Fly to Kahiltna Basecamp

Mt. Rainier: June 1st Summit Climb Update

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Hoping for a Move to 17K Tomorrow

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Ascend the Fixed Lines

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Waiting for a Break in the Weather

Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Soggy but Spirited in Talkeetna

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Remain at Base Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: May 31st Summit!

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team in One More Weather Day

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team’s Good Living at 14,200’

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