Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: JM Gorum, Grayson Swingle, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Elevation: 7,300'
Tuesday, May 25, 2021 - 11:33 pm PT
We had another great day here on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Not a cloud in the sky and balmy temperatures made life easy. We woke up a bit earlier today, around 6, ate a quick breakfast and started breaking trail up towards our first climbing objective. Radio Control Tower is a peak located just outside of Base Camp. We made good time getting up to the ridge, and put a lot of different climbing techniques to use.
We got back to camp and hid from the sun in our tents for the early part of the afternoon. Once it cooled off a bit we practiced some crevasse rescue systems around the tents, with the hopes of finding a suitable crack to practice around tomorrow.
Everyone is adjusting quite well to glacier life. We’ve already got a book club in the making, and our nightly live-broadcast podcast is really taking off. Everyone sends their best to the folks back home! You’ll hear from us again tomorrow.
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Tuesday, May 25, 2021 - 12:28 pm PT
Yesterday our team woke up to a beautiful day and finally got our chance to move to 14,000' Camp. Sunshine and low winds prevailed all into the evening as we set up camp. Today we plan on back carrying to pick up our cashe near Windy Corner.
Fantastic news! So happy to hear that the weather is cooperating and that all is well! You are a very impressive group! You have the prayers and support of your families and friends. God bless!
Posted by: Althea on 5/26/2021 at 7:57 am
If you ever find yourself stuck {on a mountain far from me}
I’ll {climb the mountain} to find you
If you ever find yourself lost in the dark and you can’t see
I’ll be the light to guide you
We’ll find out what we’re made of
When we are called to help our friends in need
You can count on me like one, two, three
I’ll be there
And I know when I need it, I can count on you like four, three, two
And you’ll be there
‘Cause that’s what friends are supposed to do, oh, yeah
Ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh
Ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh, ooh, yeah, yeah
If you tossin’ and you’re turnin’ and you just can’t fall asleep
{TIM will} sing a song beside you
And if you ever forget how much you really mean to me
Every day I will remind you, oh
We’ll find out what we’re made of
When we are called to help our friends in need
You can count on me like one, two, three
I’ll be there
And I know when I need it, I can count on you like four, three, two
And you’ll be there
‘Cause that’s what friends are supposed to do, oh, yeah
Ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh
Ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh, ooh, yeah, yeah
You’ll always have my shoulder when you cry
I’ll never let go, never say goodbye
You know…
You can count on me like one, two, three
I’ll be there
And I know when I need it I can count on you like four, three, two
And you’ll be there
‘Cause that’s what friends are supposed to do, oh, yeah
Ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh
Ooh-ooh-ooh-ooh, ooh
You can count on me ‘cause I can count on you ~Bruno Mars
Posted by: Julie Morris(old guy's wife) on 5/26/2021 at 6:27 am
Posted by: JM Gorum, Grayson Swingle, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Elevation: 7,300'
Monday, May 24, 2021 - 11:13 pm PT
We made it in to base camp last night. We landed at our new home in the Alaska range around 7pm and got to work building camp. It took us about two hours to get settled in, and then we had a late dinner consisting of Talkeetna’s finest Mountain High Pizza Pie. It’s hardly ever a bad call to fly on to the glacier with four large pizzas.
This morning we had a leisurely start, waiting until the sun hit our tents around 8am. We drank some coffee and ate some toasty bagels, and then we got to work. Today was a skills focused day. We worked on footwork, rope travel, knots, and anchors. We didn’t venture too far out of camp, but we did do a little tour of the new neighborhood. Along the way we scoped out some crevasses that should work nicely for practicing rescue in the next few days.
We’re turning in now, tomorrow we’re going to get up a little earlier and put our newly practiced skills to use on a smaller climb close to camp. We’ll let you know how it goes.
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Monday, May 24, 2021 - 10:45 pm PT
Today was quite possibly the nicest day in the Alaska range that any of the guide team can remember. The last several days earned us a perfect, clear, calm day and as such the expedition cogs were churning all over camp. Teams that have been waiting to move to 14,000' Camp were busily taking down camp and teams that have been waiting to cache were saddling up to go. We already had packs loaded, so a quick breakfast got us going and then we were finally, FINALLY, climbing. The whole team climbed really strong, enjoying the chance to stretch our legs. A few stretches of walking got us to our cache location at 13,500', where we unloaded food and fuel, then enjoyed a light, quick jaunt back down to our 11,000' Camp. All told we had an easy six hours round trip. The forecast sounds like it's holding, so our intention tomorrow is to retrace our steps in the morning and head to our next home at 14,000'.
RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team
Glad you see you got to move again today!
Posted by: Sheila on 5/25/2021 at 8:52 pm
Wow this is amazing to “watch”! Praying for the whole team’s success. You got this, Matt! Enjoy every step.
Posted by: Linda Baker on 5/25/2021 at 5:41 pm
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Monday, May 24, 2021 - 10:24 pm PT
We're finally fully moved into 11,000' Camp. After a four hour lap to pick up our cache at 9,400 we have all our food and fuel with us. To celebrate to had pudding for dessert after a tasty meal of rice and curry. The weather looks good for tomorrow and we are hoping to carry some gear up to Windy Corner.
Please tell Norm that everything is ok at home and I am well. Thanks! Valerie
Posted by: Valerie Cognetto on 5/31/2021 at 11:14 am
We kidnapped your wife for the weekend, it will cost you a weekend of camping out at a country music festival, lol. Seriously- we are so very proud and astounded by your accomplishment. Norm- you are amazing and we wish you a safe return home to all who love you. xo
Posted by: Allison and Jimmy on 5/30/2021 at 7:06 am
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Sunday, May 23, 2021 - 11:47 pm PT
Though it's almost June, the temps this morning hit us like the coldest winter chill. When we first crawled out of the tents it looked like today would be the day. It was cold, but the winds were light in camp. Above, huge plumes of snow launched off of the upper elevation ridgelines, a clear visual of how hard the winds were blowing aloft, but with them coming out of the north, we hoped the mountain would provide shelter and that the warmth that came with the sun would tame the winds. Instead, the opposite happened. As we ate breakfast the winds steadily increased in camp to a small squall, injecting snow through any opening in tents or clothes. Word from higher up said 14,000' Camp was no better. So we got the message and settled in. They've calmed considerably since this afternoon and the forecast calls for them to continue to diminish, so we know we'll get our shot to move up. The group is doing really well with the weather hang. Rounds of gin rummy, kindles, and movies are keeping everyone occupied, as well as a quick wall building session to protect our bathroom tent. Someone mentioned working on content for the Denali calendar as well. Fingers and toes are crossed we get to go climbing tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and team, brought to you by Alice in Chains
(Previous blogs brought to you by Outkast and The Scorpions)
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Sunday, May 23, 2021 - 11:31 pm PT
Cold temps and wind greeted us as we began our move to 11,000' Camp, our Camp 2 this morning. The climb warmed up as the sun hit us and we enjoyed stellar views. The day remained windy with blowing snow but our team powered through it. Arriving at 11,000' Camp, we settled in and built our camp in fine alpine style. We were pleasantly surprised to run into the rest of our RMI teams here at 11,200'. Hopefully the reunion will be short as those teams progress up the mountain while good weather remains over the range.
Someone said there is no WiFi in the mountains, but you will make your own connections! Enjoy it all!
Posted by: Maxine Kay on 5/24/2021 at 7:09 pm
Posted by: Robby Young, Dominic Cifelli, Camille Leininger, Joe Hoch, Nikki Champion, Axel Ryd
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Robby Young and Joe Hoch were turned around at Ingraham Flats due to high winds and blowing snow. The team returned to Camp Muir and enjoyed a brief break in the weather. The team left Camp Muir around 9:30 am en route to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Sunday, May 23, 2021 - 6:01 pm PT
The weather has not gotten the message yet that we’re trying to move up to the 14,00' Camp. Winds calmed yesterday afternoon, but picked up again early this morning. We were poised to break camp when they ramped up to the strongest we’ve seen this trip, strong enough to break guy lines on our cook tent. Texting via satellite with friends at 14k, we knew conditions were even harsher up there.
Instead of moving up today we built some snow walls to protect our camp here at 11k. The weather is improving this evening, and again we’re hopeful that we can push camp up higher tomorrow.
We’ll let you know...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Might be fun to build an igloo in your spare time. Hope you get moving soon.
Posted by: Anne Cook on 5/25/2021 at 12:26 pm
As it turns out, there is actually a patron saint of good weather, Saint Medardus! I never heard of him before. He’ll be hearing from me until you’re home!
Posted by: Althea on 5/25/2021 at 10:39 am
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Chase Halbert, Matias Francis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
The team woke up to a foot of fresh snow this morning, which led to our activity of the morning. Shoveling. Once that was out of the way, the team transitioned to game time. A variety of games and a few lucky beginners carried us through the afternoon. Some cheesecake for dessert has the team powered up hoping for better weather tomorrow. We're seeing the winds of change and feel positive about the next couple days!
RMI Guides Matias, Chase, Pete, and team
Hi Marc
I Hope you’re having a good day! And that conditions r improving. We are so proud of you! Good luck today to u & ur whole team!
Nicole
Posted by: Nicole gabai on 5/25/2021 at 11:37 am
marc - wishing you good weather to complete your mission. the pix are amazing. best wishes to everyone! olga
Posted by: Olga on 5/24/2021 at 10:48 am
A book club in the making. Now THAT is not what you’d expect to learn is happening up on a glacier. Shows the balance of working both body and mind though. So rock on!
Posted by: Melanee Strootman on 5/26/2021 at 12:17 pm
Way to go team, keep up the good work. The view looks amazing.
Posted by: Frances Shaw on 5/26/2021 at 7:22 am
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