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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Remain at 11,000 ft Camp

Saturday, May 22, 2021 - 9:47 pm PT

We woke up this morning to a foot of fluffy, light snow. After digging out our tents and eating breakfast we saw the snow subsiding. Just as we got our hopes up for moving camp the winds started to pick up. It quickly became apparent this was not our day. Reading materials are running low, but spirits are high!

RMI Guide Mike Walter

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To Ben and fellow climbers: We wish you fair weather going forward! Pat promises Ben a little incentive- he’s making Manhattans when he returns!
God bless!  Pat & Althea

Posted by: Althea Daley on 5/24/2021 at 6:22 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Turn Due to Weather

The Four Day Climb May 20- 23, 2021 was turned around at the top of Disappointment Cleaver today due to low visibility, blowing snow and cold temperatures.  The teams, led by RMI Guides Andy Bond and Taylor Bickford, returned to safely to Camp Muir and will be descending to Paradise later this morning.

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Mt. Rainier: May 22nd Teams Summit

The Four Day Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Alex Halliday reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today.  The guides reported light winds and great climbing conditions. They have left the crater and started their descent back to Camp Muir.

Congratulations to Today's Teams! 

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to the Climb Teams for reaching the summit!!

Posted by: Tracey Inman on 5/23/2021 at 7:51 pm

Right on! Hope I’m there with you next year Bryan. Dogwood!

Posted by: William Maloney on 5/22/2021 at 11:37 am


Denali Expedition: Frank and Team Cache Gear at 9,800’

Friday, May 21, 2021 - 11:28 pm PT

This morning we woke up to fresh snow as we began preparations for our carry to the 9800 cache. Our duffels and backpacks were able to easily swallow our gear as we only had to carry a load of about 50% of the weight from the previous day. The team ascended, cached everything and then descended in stellar form, ate a nourishing meal and went to bed with full stomachs and tired legs.

RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team

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Just found your trip and will be following!  I climbed this route in 1996 with RMI / Robert Link and you are brining back some powerful memories.  One day, one camp, one step, one cut block at a time.  You’ll get there!

Posted by: Keith on 5/23/2021 at 8:50 pm

Looks great! Keep it up!

Posted by: Thomas Brown on 5/22/2021 at 6:52 pm


Denali Expedition: Weather Keeps Van Deventer and Team at 11,000’ Camp

Friday May 21, 2021 - 10:28 pm PT

We had a bit of a false start today. When e got up the winds that have been storming through camp were absent, the sky above clear, though thick, high clouds shrouded the upper mountain. As we finished breakfast, the side started to creep back, the clouds crept up and down to meet at us, and things started to look more marginal. We dragged our feet and started to see an improving trend, so we decided to go for it, knowing we could turn around and head for a snug camp if it didn't work out. We climbed Motorcycle Hill our of camp in some low visibility, but otherwise pleasant conditions, but as we crested to the ridgeline, the wind found us, cooler than a polar bears toenails. With less than optimal visibility, increasing winds, and a significant stretch of climbing in front of us, we decided to retreat back to camp.

In the end, it was nice to stretch the legs and we'll be ready when the mountain opens her arms and says come on up.

RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team

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Looks so unbelievably beautiful!!! Keep sending pics - we can at least imagine we are there with you. :D

Posted by: Monica Deckard on 5/22/2021 at 10:28 pm

That image of the mountain opening her arms to your group is quite lovely.  May she see fit to do that sooner than later.  Nice to stretch your legs, Hope better weather arrives soon.

Posted by: Bethany on 5/22/2021 at 10:45 am


Denali Expedition: Walter and Team hold at 11,000’ Camp

Friday May 21, 2021 - 9:56 pm PT

Winds had calmed by 5am, and I got my hopes up as I fired the stoves in the cold Alaskan dawn. But it turned out to be a brief lull instead of a pattern change. Persistently strong winds and snow returned and we were dealt another weather day.

We’re optimistic that the weather pattern is changing; we saw the sun this evening for the first time in four days. We’re all in good spirits, ready and rested for the move to 14k.

RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team

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Good luck to Luke and the whole team!

Posted by: Matthew Byars on 5/25/2021 at 9:19 am

The Bemis’s and Wilhelm’s wish you all well from the shores of Cayuga lake for chuck’s graduation! Hope you’re all not going too stir crazy and that you haven’t consumed all your snacks. Stay safe and thanks for the daily updates- much appreciated!

Posted by: Tracy on 5/23/2021 at 5:21 am


Mt. Rainier: Muir Seminar Teams Ascend to Ingraham Flats, Turn Due to weather

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir May 16 - 21, 2021 met on Sunday for their first day of training led by RMI Guides Hannah Smith and Nikki Champion.  On Monday, May 17th they loaded their packs and ascended to Camp Muir.  They have spent the last four days and nights at Camp Muir, training and practicing skills needed to climb big mountains.  Today they put that training to test and made their summit attempt on Mt. Rainier.  Unfortunately wind and new snow thwarted their effort.  The team is safely back at Camp Muir and will do some additional training this morning before packing their gear and descending from 10,000'.  We hope they learned a lot and enjoyed their experience even with the uncooperative weather.

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Hang at 11,000 ft due to weather

Thursday, May 20, 2021 - 11:09 pm PT

Today was a bit of a groundhog day, though if anything, the weather made itself pretty clear as far as its intentions. Intermittently gusty winds and consistent snow made it an easy day to hang in the tents reading, watching movies, playing cards, and sawing logs. We're currently cooking a dinner of a curried rice and miso soup. We'll welcome the sleeping bags for another good night of sleep and see what tomorrow brings.

RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team

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Great to read the blog and get your messages, Hank!  Prayers and fingers crossed for improved weather to move forward for safety and success!

Posted by: Nancy Thoenes on 5/22/2021 at 4:11 am

Bummer… Waiting is good for Jason’s back, I think??? Hopefully tomorrow will work out and you can cache!

Posted by: Mandy Powell on 5/21/2021 at 5:43 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Wait Out the Weather at 11,000 ft

Thursday, May 20, 2021 - 9:30 pm PT

We spent another day sitting out the wind and snow at 11,000' Camp. We killed time playing trivia for hours in the cook tent. We will continue to patiently wait for the best weather window to move up to our 14,000' Camp. Thanks for following along!

RMI Guide MIke Walter

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Best of luck to you all!
Happy Birthday Tom!

Posted by: Dennis Kinsey on 5/22/2021 at 7:24 am

Give Saint Rainier my love!!

Posted by: Tk Ito on 5/21/2021 at 10:00 pm


Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Ready in Talkeetna, Fly to Kahiltna Base Camp

Wednesday, May 19, 2021 - 11:20 pm PT

Blue skies greeted us this morning in Talkeetna.  With potentially stormy weather approaching, we decided to make an expeditious attempt to fly onto the glacier this evening.  We lucked out and got a flight and landed at Base Camp. Now the adventure begins!  Tomorrow we plan to move to Camp 1 at 7,800 feet

RMI Guide Eric Frank

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Elliot
Loving the updates, thinking good thoughts for you and the rest of your team. Enjoy the adventure, stay strong and tap into your tenacious spirit to keep moving.
Cheers and Love
Mom and Dad

Posted by: Susan Campos on 5/21/2021 at 7:09 pm

Go Auntie Heidi!!!
From Wilson

We hope you make it safely, watch out for spider badgers!!! (8-legged badger)  ((Breckin made it up and tries to convince people it’s a real thing))
From Breckin

Posted by: Jason Kay on 5/21/2021 at 4:55 pm

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