RMI Expeditions Blog
Posted by: JJ Justman, Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Elevation: 14,000'
Posted by: Geoff Schellens
Categories: Guide News
On May 9th Jake and I departed from Base Camp around 8:00 AM, skiing down the Southeast Fork through the cold, crisp morning air to the main flow of the Kahiltna Glacier. We continued down the glacier for another half hour and reached the West Ridge of Mt. Hunter. Here Jake and I cached our skis and began climbing. We approached this objective in a light and fast technique, known as “alpine style,” bringing four days of food, a small stove, a lightweight tent, and no comfort items. As we started climbing we found a very nice boot pack leading up the ridge that made for extremely efficient travel. At first we felt guilty drafting behind someone else breaking trail, but soon decided that each of us has done our fair share of trail breaking on other peaks and that we ought to just enjoy this one. As the two of us climbed higher on the West Ridge with ear-to-ear smiles we decided on a plan, “Lets climb until we’re not having fun and then camp there.” Well, the climbing on the West Ridge was extremely fun and after twelve hours of navigating the corniced ridge, peppered with exquisite sections of rock, steep snow and ice, we found ourselves at the 11,400’ bivy - tired but still smiling. We set our tent in a small notch and ate freeze-dried dinners with a fantastic view of the Alaska Range. It was truly an awesome place to be.
The next morning brought beautiful weather and a sense of excitement for where we were and what lay ahead. With our approach of simply having fun, we enjoyed the morning views and a few cups of coffee before breaking camp at noon. Moving quickly relishing every step and with a swing of an ice tool we ascended steep snow pitches and navigated gaping crevasses. Soon we found ourselves on the summit plateau at 13,000’ walking across the largest stretch of horizontal terrain we had seen in thirty hours. From there we ascended the final 55° slope that took us to the summit ridge. From there, forty more minutes of easy climbing gave way to the summit of Mt. Hunter. While standing on the summit Jake and I hooted and hollered with excitement, “What a fun climb!”
Soon we began our descent with the same approach we used on the ascent - climb until it is not fun and then set up camp. Down the ridge we went back to our bivy site, where we decided to descend via the Ramen Route. Quickly Jake and I realized that we had made a wrong turn into the entrance of the Couloir. This meant that we had to do a few tricky rappels and down climb through seracs to get ourselves back on route. Once we were back on track, we had a few more rappels before softer snow conditions allowed us to down climb to the base of the 3,300’ Ramen Coulior.
Now, for the second time in two days, we found ourselves again on flat glaciated terrain. At this point it was getting late in the day, but we were still enjoying ourselves and decided to continue our descent. Due to the time of day we chose to navigate the extremely broken-up glacier since it provided more camping opportunities if we needed to set up camp. This was a time intensive descent however as Jake and I soon found ourselves in a world surrounded by incomprehensible seracs and crevasses. A couple more hours brought us back to the main flow of the Kahiltna Glacier and our skis. After forty-two hours we arrived back at Base Camp exhausted, hungry, thirsty, and smiling. Employing our tactic of “climb until we are not having fun” had been the perfect strategy for this route.
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RMI Guide Geoff Schellens is a senior guide leading trips on Aconcagua, the North Cascades, Mt. Rainier, as well as, guiding Ice Climbing and Mt. McKinley. He is currently preparing for his next adventure this spring on Dhaulagiri, an 8,000 meter peak in the Himalayas. See more of Geoff's mountain photography on his website.
Posted by: Solveig Waterfall, JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Good luck tomorrow team, may you have great weather!
-Brad and Lori
Posted by: Brad & Lori Briggs on 10/24/2013 at 7:13 pm
Greeting from Massachusetts.
Phil’s favorite sister here. My big task on Wednesday was payroll. I’m tires just reading about your day. Hahaha
Can’t wait to see the pictures.
XO Jackie
Posted by: Jackie Miner on 10/24/2013 at 1:17 pm
Posted by: JJ Justman, Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Elevation: 14,700'
RMI Guide JJ Justman checks in from high camp on Ixtaccihuatl.
On The Map
Excellent. Glad everyone is ok!
Posted by: Mic Walter on 10/23/2013 at 9:48 pm
Posted by: JJ Justman, Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Elevation: 14,700'
RMI Guide JJ Justman checks in from Ixta High Camp.
On The Map
John P., I hope you have fully recovered and are feeling good! Your classes are behaving fairly well for the substitute. Tell Dave his class enjoyed the exam.
Love,
Sarah
Posted by: Sarah Reznikoff on 10/23/2013 at 1:06 pm
Good luck today Peter - enjoy & be safe! Love & miss you. Xxx
Posted by: Maria on 10/23/2013 at 7:12 am
Posted by: JJ Justman, Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Elevation: 12,000'
On The Map
Glad to hear the climbing is going well and the team is making good progress. Enjoy the rest of the mountain and the local food. Love to Fatima, Peter
Posted by: Peter Williamson on 10/22/2013 at 2:58 am
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
The ability to measure your gains throughout a training program is a great way to stay motivated and identify areas that you want to work on more. In college I raced on the cross-country ski team. On the team, we had several different benchmark sessions throughout our summer and fall training seasons. These sessions helped measure strength, anaerobic threshold, race speed, and endurance. While the demands of nordic ski racing are somewhat different than mountaineering, these categories still apply directly to mountaineering. If you incorporate tests into your training plan early, you’ll have a benchmark to compare each subsequent test to. With a tool to identify your progress, you’ll be amazed at the progress you will make in getting faster, stronger, and fitter!
As food for thought, a couple of the events that we used were:
A Strength Test: The test encompasses three different core exercises that isolate different muscle groups: sit-ups, push-ups, and dips. Starting with sit-ups, do as many complete sit-ups as possible within a 1-minute span, rest for 30 seconds, and then repeat. We did the same with both push-ups and dips, keeping track of the numbers. When repeating the test later in the season, you are able to track your gains in core strength.
3000-meter running test and time trials: Both allowed us to compare times over a consistent course and test aerobic thresholds. The 3000m is long enough (7.5 laps of a standard track) to attain a good idea of how you can push and maintain over an extended distance. Time trials are the same, though distance and mechanism can vary (20 kilometers on a bike or a 45 minute uphill run). Longer courses focus on aerobic capacity (endurance), while shorter events move more towards the aerobic threshold (the ability to process lactic acid and maintain aerobic respiration).
Uphill sprint test: Running uphill as hard as I could pushed me into the anaerobic zone and measured maximum performance. Alpine ski areas, a local uphill grind, or even a long set of stairs are a great place to do this test. Find a section 2-3 minutes long, duck your head, and give it all you have.
Be creative with creating your own benchmark tests! Enter a 5k race periodically, use your local stadium stairs as an anaerobic test, and create a strength test that works for you. The options are pretty limitless, and when you see how much time you’ve dropped on that uphill run, or how many more sit-ups you can do over the period, you’ll be that much more psyched to keep getting after it. As always, be careful, especially at the beginning. Training only works if it’s making you stronger so train smart and stay injury free!
_____
Pete Van Deventer is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions. A former collegiate nordic skier, Pete climbs and guides around the world, from the Andes to Alaska. Pete is leading an expedition on Denali's West Buttress in May. Also an avid skier, Pete has sailed and skied on several occasions through Norway's Lofoten Islands, read about the adventure on the RMI Blog.
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Posted by: JJ Justman, Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Elevation: 10,000'
On The Map
Posted by: JJ Justman, Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Mike H enjoy the climb! All of us back home on the beach sipping Margaritas!! Now thats a real vaca!!
Posted by: tom m on 10/21/2013 at 10:31 am
I got your phone message this morning, John P. Good luck from me and the boys!
Posted by: Sarah on 10/21/2013 at 8:54 am
Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Seth Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Great news the sun’s shining for you. Hope you all have a great climb and enjoy summiting Orizaba. love to Fatima, Peter
Posted by: Peter Williamson on 10/25/2013 at 5:57 pm
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