RMI Expeditions Blog
Posted by: JJ Justman, Pete Van Deventer, Zeb Blais, Robby Young
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,200'
Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,000'
On The Map
Congratulations Gerald and to the entire team! Hope you enjoyed the view from the sumitt. Safe travels down!
miss ya!
P.S. Aliki passed the being “faithful” test we talked about while you were gone ;)
Posted by: john azua on 6/6/2013 at 5:18 am
Gerald, well it is tomorrow night here (June 5) and the suspense is just too much! Whatever the outcome of the day just know everyone back home is wishing you and your team all the best. You HAVE gone in the direction of your dreams and you most definitely are living the life you imagined!! So, so, proud. Stay safe, stay focused and climb strong. Love and miss you. Aliki, Riley & Charlotte
Posted by: Aliki on 6/5/2013 at 6:14 pm
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On The Map
Great job everybody!!! A special hello to Lori. :) You are all an inspiration. I hope you stay warm and safe! Good luck!!! Love and hugs,
Maggie and Casey
Lori-P.S. Keep God in your heart.
Posted by: Casey Hansen on 6/6/2013 at 8:43 am
Robin and Team
Congratulations on your trek to 14k. Sounds like you guys had a difficult day but some amazing views! Hope you get some well deserved rest today. Take care and good luck tomorrow. Looking forward to updates. Praying for your safety and success. Stay warm.
Robin - P.S. got your Father’s Day Cards :)
Love, DAD
Posted by: Matt Prosser on 6/5/2013 at 11:00 am
YAY JJ! That’s awesome! I was on your rope with you when you completed your 175th in 2011, it was such a great time that I am coming to do it again next week. You’re a kickass guide! -Andy R
Posted by: Andy on 6/5/2013 at 3:55 pm
Wow JJ ... 200 summits. What an accomplishment! Congratulations!!! Fred K
Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 6/5/2013 at 10:20 am
Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
On The Map
Hey Virg, Did you see my time capsule when you were on the summit? Isn’t it the most indescribable, unique feeling to reach the top?!! Your feelings run amuck as you slowly comprehend “oh my god, I made it!!” It was your dream, your goal for so long and now it’s a memory to cherish forever! Remember seeing my photos of us eating lunch on the summit! Best lunch ever!! On to Aconcagua!! Why not! I’m very happy for you and relieved for your mom and dad! Big HIGH FIVE buddy! Linda
Posted by: Linda Foss on 6/6/2013 at 8:19 am
Hi Monica—
All the news is very exciting and we send everyone our warmest wishes.
A poem by Rene Daumal:
You cannot stay on the summit forever,
you have to comedown again.
So why bother in the first place?
Just this; what is above knows what is below,
but what is below does not know what is above.
One climbs, one sees. One descends,
one sees no longer but has seen.
There is an art of conducting oneself
in the lower regions
by memory of what one saw higher up.
When one can no longer see, one can
at least still know.
Much love and good weather,
M&D
Posted by: Marianne and john on 6/4/2013 at 7:56 pm
On The Map
James and the team,
Greeting…glad to see everyone is making safe and steady climbing, having fresh snow overnight, and eating well. Stay strong and enjoy majestic views on the mountain covered with snow. Praying for safe journey. Can’t wait to see awesome pictures!
Posted by: Soonja Choo on 6/4/2013 at 5:02 pm
To James Choo -
Just learned that Walter Glover will be doing the Mt. Rainier 5-day Summit Climb, June 13-17.
-Larry Seaton
Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/4/2013 at 2:29 pm
Nate,
Stay safe & enjoy every breath! So proud of you!
Good luck!
Lora
“A mountain keeps an echo deep inside. That’s how I hold your voice.”~Rumi
Posted by: Lora on 6/4/2013 at 5:34 am
Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
On The Map
Stay strong! You are almost there! Well, actually you are already doing and seeing places and things that most of us only dream of, so please appreciate how far you have come as well!
We love you, Dennis!
Shelly, Jon and Tasha
Posted by: Shelly Uhlir on 6/5/2013 at 8:50 pm
Jeff H and friends—Hoping today is the day! Here’s to a fabulous summit.
Posted by: Jill Cathey on 6/4/2013 at 8:52 am
Posted by: Walter Hailes
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
Adjusting to the low oxygen of high altitude environments is a natural process that we will all experience if we travel or live at high altitudes. Like all things in life, some people are better at adjusting to high altitude than others. Fortunately, there are ways that each of us can prepare at home and in the early stages of mountain travel before going to the big peaks.
We all experience the low oxygen of high altitude a little differently, but the most prominent symptoms of going to high altitude are categorized as the condition Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). AMS is composed of a group of symptoms that can present themselves after spending some time at high altitude. Symptoms of AMS include headache, fatigue, anorexia, nausea and insomnia. While the severity of these symptoms can vary, AMS does not have to end your climb but should be used as an indication that your body is struggling to acclimatize.
The most important aspect of performing well and staying healthy in the mountains under the stress of low oxygen is by being physically fit. If you have been following a rigorous training program then you are well on your way to being physically fit for your climb. Fitness cannot prevent the symptoms of AMS but if the daily physical tasks of climbing are easier due to your high fitness level, then you have more energy reserves to battle the stress of the low oxygen environment.
Proper nutrition and hydration are also important variables leading up to and during your climb. While you may avoid simple carbohydrates during daily life, at altitude simple carbohydrates are the most efficient and most preferred form of energy for your acclimatizing body. Don’t be afraid to eat those high glycemic foods while working hard at altitude!
Dehydration can certainly be detrimental to your performance and health at high altitude, but you do not need to constantly consume water. Listen to your body, specifically your thirst, it has been finely tuned over many generations to keep you hydrated.
The prescription medication acetazolamide (Diamox) can help with acclimatization to high altitude, but it is not a magic pill that will solve all your high altitude problems. Diamox has repeatedly reduced AMS symptoms and hastened acclimatization during multi-day clinical and laboratory studies. It can work and is a great tool to use if you are not acclimatizing during an expedition even though you are using a standard acclimatization schedule, but its efficacy is less known for a quick overnight summit attempt such as Mt. Rainier. Remember: all medications have side effects that you need to understand before using and Diamox will not make up for a lack of fitness when headed into the mountains.
The bottom line is make sure that your body is fit enough to handle the stress of a high altitude mountain trip, and listen to your body while you are at altitude. If you pay attention, your body will tell you what fuel you need to keep going and how well you are adjusting to the high altitude environment. Have fun and climb safe!
_____
Walter Hailes is a senior guide at RMI and has guided extensively in North and South America. He also works as an exercise physiologist at the University of Montana, primarily studying the human capacity to endure/excel in difficult environments including high altitude, extreme heat and cold.
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts on the RMI Blog!
hey
Posted by: natalie on 4/27/2018 at 9:03 am
It was rally useful for me. I am going to improve the level of my mountaineering with the use of this methods.
Posted by: hossein bakhtiarzadeh on 2/27/2014 at 9:02 pm
Posted by: JJ Justman, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 1,800'
Matt hope you are enjoying your climb be safe! love mom
Posted by: terri mcmahand on 6/4/2013 at 9:04 pm
Good luck on your summit climb. Love you Daddy
Posted by: Z Team on 6/6/2013 at 9:01 pm
Expedition Skills Seminar Team, you are looking good! Best wishes for a summit tomorrow!
Posted by: Joyce Dowell on 6/5/2013 at 5:59 pm
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